Mary Diamond

Quicksilver, The Baroque Cycle - 1

by Neal Stephenson

My personal opinion would be to label them Chatelaines ~

Welcome, sir, and thank you for the nip of rum ~

ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh-----and have i got an idea for you all as far as making a model casting of yourself to place/ fit garments on...... comes from my oldest boy who also costumes........ he amazes me--- !!!

WOOD GLUE AND STRIPS/ SHIRT on skin tight til dries { wear plastic garbage bag}...strand sit infront of fan or add quick paint drying agent.....

CUT OFF when dry---- then you close it by , get this---- LACING-- stuff it with whatever-- mount on pole --

lady constance

You may also want to reference Chole's blog for her Duct Tape Double ~ a similar concept, without the drying time.

Interesting ~ front lacing, looking remarkably similar to the back-lacing 1715 stays pattern I have been working with. Do you have a date for these, Lady B?

Love the stitching detail ~ and the colors, my my, how vibrant!

Looking quite nice, Lady Brower ~

Still awaiting the arrival of these items after almost TWO MONTHS!!!

Callenish ~

Please note that Captain Grey's father died early January. I believe she has been out of state, assisting with clearing out the house and making arrangements. Perhaps you may want to contact her directly?

Miss Diamond,

been busy thinking and pouring over the topic of the essential garments.....

butterick has a pattern with 4 different sets of stays ... the one closet to Gaop needs the tabs rounded....

it also gives the angles of the boning on the sides of the garment....... at an angle........ YAH.....so------- no more tube shaped stays.....

now honestly, i should just use scrap fabric.... but i jsut cant bear to use unlovely fabrics.... !{ fabric princess that i am}..........

but ic an say that i am so happy that everyone here is so encouraging..... even when my results are less than.....

thank ye! very much....

lady constance

Lady Constance ~

I am happy to hear you are reassured.

Yes, it is a bit of a trial to use scrap fabric first for trial stays fittings (I am a fairly impatient person, and hate delays to starting the "real" project) ~ please do keep in mind, it is only to establish the proper lines and check for fit. A single layer of fabric, seam stitched, with tabs cut, and yourself spiral laced in. Shouldn't take more than hour to make and try on, to see if the general fit is correct, and to make adjustments to the pattern accordingly. This scrap fabric shell is just that ~ scrap ~ I do not use my scraps to make the "real" stays.

The trial fitting ensures a better fit when you take the second step, and cut your real (lovely) fabrics. Less chance of a poor fit, which would be a waste of the lovely fabrics.

Best of Luck!

Is it really such a sin to use some minor items that are pre period?? it could easily have been my great grandmothers.

I would think a girl might inherit certain pieces from her mother or grandmother that in good condition she might wear, or adapt or repurpose, especially if the piece was hand made by the family member. I'm not so sure that a style of embroidery or lace making would really change so much in 20 years. I can see clothing styles changing drastically, but little embellishments that had some sentimentality? I'm not so sure those women were that different from us. I have some things of my great- grandmothers that I still incorporated into my everyday wear, scarves and clips, collars, gloves and hats and such, Ok I'm not your average person but I imagine it was more common then than now considering the cost of clothing. Am I wrong??

To further support Michael:

Nell, it really depends on the status of your character, and your characters family. If you are a more common impression, you may have a cherished heirloom tucked away somewhere ~ but it would be just that ~ carefully stored, brought out on rare occaision. The same as now ~ you may occaisionally wear your grandmothers diamond wedding ring, but not every day. And, I think the time frame for that embroidery piece may be closer to a 50 year difference ~ early 1600s. Not to mention ~ if it was your grandmothers heirloom, or trade it for a piece of bread or a nip of rum to sustain you for another 3 days ~ which would you choose?

Perfect! Thank you ~

Any detail work for clothes?

then I could just be something like... Dotia Ursula Dempsy---that would make me d.u.d LOL

Ah, yes, Dottie Duds is up to it again...

My heart goes out to you and your family, William. My Mom has a rather uncomfortable relationship with her brother (though not anywhere similiar in sheer magnitude to your Uncle Gary), which has gradually healed somewhat to civility over the years. I can only hope the same (if not better) for your situation.

You and your family will be in my thoughts and prayers.

Lady Constance ~ I wanted you to know I have started a separate thread which may interest you ~

Stays ~ It All Starts with the Right Foundation

This thread shows images of GAoP period stays patterns and stays. Especially helpful are the diagrams showing boning angles, to achieve the proper cone form. If you are so inclined, you could just enlarge these images to make the pattern for your stays.

Ah, and I forgot to mention earlier ~ the ivory jacquard fabric is lovely.

Please let me know if I can be of any assistance.

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Please Note I have started a separate thread ~

Stays ~ It All Starts with the Right Foundation

This thread shows images of GAoP period stays patterns and stays. Especially helpful are the diagrams showing boning angles, to achieve the proper cone form.

*****************************

Now that I have one and (3/4?) stays done, I want to make the RH711 front lacing stays, and I was hoping to try the busk thing... If I understand the pattern correctly, the stomacher is separate, yes? Can I still put a busk in it or does that not work so well... I thought it would but I thought I would ask for some feedback before I did anything rash. =)

From what I have seen/read/heard, front lacing stays cannot accomodate a GAoP busk. Victorian era corsets had split metal busks, with integral closures.

The stomacher is usually a separate triangular piece of material, usually nicer/fancier (silk, embroidered, etc.) than the stays, pinned or laced in place.

Please pay careful attention to the angle of the boning in the stays ~ vertical boning will lean towards a tube shape, angled boning will lean towards a cone shape.

Dated between 1678-1725

1715

There has been so much discussion concerning stays, and so many enthusiastic folk attempting their first, that the Captain and I thought this may be of help.

These are all period patterns ~ I made stays for myself from Simplicity, Butterick, and the below patterns, and have found the GAoP patterns to be the most comfortable. Be sure to note the seam and boning placement ~ this is critical to achieving the cone form, as opposed to a tubular form.

How I used these patterns ~ I measured from the center of my breastbone to just above my privates, for the busk (wooden stabilizer which completes the form ~ can also be switched out for boning or reed, for a more flexible fit). Expect anywhere from 12" - 17", depending on your frame ~ when sitting, the busk does set down between your thighs a bit. I enlarged the chosen pattern so the center dimension will fit the busk. From there, it is a matter of creating scrap canvas (or other heavy, non-stretching material) samples, which are fitted and adjusted accordingly.

It is a bit time consuming, but properly fitted stays are wonderful to wear (ask me about the nasty bruises I had from a poorly fitted -my fault! I tried rushing- pair of stays some day). Please let me know if there is any way I can help ~

Similar to the base for a 1650-60 gown in Waugh, I apologize, I have no date.

1670-80

1675

1697 ~ Note front lacing, therefore no busk.

A Very Happy Birthday to you, indeed!

Well met, sir, and welcome aboard. A nip of Pirate Choice Molasses Reef, if you please.

I would be interested ~ though I would first want to see if Harry will store the poles. I haven't purchased my tent yet, so I would need to make a decision and get back to you with pole dimensions. I am located in Chicago, so I cannot help with the driving, but would be happy to contribute monetarily.

A Very Happy Birthday to you, Scuttle Sally!

Your constuction is very neatly done ~ and the "tube" shape is close to approriate for GAoP (more like a cone).

~ From a quick review, the front center top appears higher than the sides, which looks a bit odd, but might just be the camera angle? Did you go without a busk in the front, to make it a bit more flexible for cooking?

~ Vertical back boning at the eyelets will provide better support.

~ The underarm scythes, at that height, concern me. I am afraid they are going to dig in ~ which can be extremely uncomfortable, if not painful.

I am unsure which other suggestions to make, without knowing the look you were going for, but hope these were helpful.

Lady Brower ~

When I first started this, I was unsure as which way (Hollywood or PC) I wanted to play. The reason you want to play (casual entertainment with an Arrr, or educational entertainment?) will have a very great deal in pointing you in the right direction for patterns.

Essentially, you have 2 options if you want it to "look right" for re-enacting ~ spend a Great Deal of Time and Effort to recreate a period look by researching period and location (English differs from Spanish, Dutch, French) specific drawings and paintings; or spent $$$ up front to buy patterns that have historical research built into them. IMHO ~ if the Simplicity patterns were close enough, more re-enactors Would Be using them, instead of merely debating how to make them "close enough". It makes economic sense.

I sympathize with your dilemma, as I work a mere 6 months of the year at best, and coin is quite tight for myself. I wish you the best in your decision making.

A Very Nicely Done first attempt, Lady Brower!

I second the Captain's thoughts ~ the upper cut (turn) of the tab at your sides should sit right on the top of your hipbone. From there, cradle your bosom so they are slightly raised ~ the upper part of the stays should cross roughly at (or somewhat above) your personals. Once you have worn these for a full weekend, you will have a better feeling for what needs adjusting (such as the arm scythes ~ the underarm area). I personally adjusted the lower back tabs in length and width, to provide better lower back support for when I am carrying guns and such up front.

Good Evening, Island Cutter ~

I had been lurking, to observe your interpretation of a portable sea chest (as my Dad and I made my own sea chest some time back). Nicely done!

My thoughts ~ you may wish to address the weight concern. The reason I would purchase a folding sea chest is so I could take it with when flying to events. At 29 pounds, that stresses the already tight weight restrictions imposed by the airlines. Paying $25 to $100 for overweight or additional baggage justifies the $60 FedEx charges for shipping my entire sea chest, assembled and full of gear.

Folks driving to events generally have a little more room to play with when packing their car ~ but there are also those who have small cars (like me in my Miata), that might find this a useful item.