Quartermaster James

http://www.photo.rmn.fr/c/htm/CSearchZ.aspx?o=&Total=316&FP=56228770&E=2K1KTSUWY42YE&SID=2K1KTSUWY42YE&New=T&Pic=167&SubE=2C6NU07GQSUM

I've seen bottles of the period in lighter colors, but predominantly of the dark green "black" glass. Oh! And a manufacturer I forgot to mention previously does also address this: http://westmoorepott...products_id=376 While you're there, check out their Bellarmine jugs.

Jiminy Crickets! How has posting pictures from Bad Hare Day so far escaped me!?!?

England(?) circa 1800. Older, reused barrel of a hackbut from circa 1600. Octagonal cross-section with a swamped muzzle and smooth bore in 21 mm calibre. Simple flintlock, inscribed "Moore" and the date "178?" hardly legible on the lockplate. Walnut full stock with simple furniture. At the forestock suspended iron sleeve with spring catch and trunnions on the sides as well as an attached forked support. Length 180 cm. Rare example of a heavy naval musket that was attached to the ship's railing for a better absorption of the blowback. Found at: http://www.hermann-historica.de/auktion/hhm60.pl?db=kat60_s.txt&f=ZAEHLER&c=0&t=temartic_S_GB&co=7 PS: lots of interesting stuff there...

None of these have pistol grips, but the last six might be interesting: http://www.tortugatr.../advhandler.asp Sorry, that link won't work. Go to: http://www.tortugatrading.com/default.asp and enter swivel in the search function.

Agreed! Believe it or not, locks have been broken by people forcing them to fire from the half-cock position! Also, removing the springs without proper tools is good way to ruin them, and injudicious "polishing" of internal parts can reshape them beyond service. I could go on, but you get the point.

Ohio Black Powder Clubs

Happy to be of service. Y.M.H.S. QMJ

To be honest, I haven't checked the inside, but I'm asuming it is. Given this information, I have to most strongly discourage you from firing this gun. You have no idea of the soundness of the barrel or the breech plug. It's better to lose a few dollars than a hand or an eye, or both. Unless you can have this gun competently examined and pronounced safe, DO NOT FIRE THIS GUN!

Oh! My mistake, I thought you were speaking of case bottles. So, are you now looking for handmade versions of what you already have? If not, have you tried Specialty Bottle? They offer this: http://www.specialty...PROD&ProdID=530 Aye! It's a little bigger than your specs, but... Also, I've dealt with this company and can personally recommend them. Now, curiosity being what it is, here are a few things I found on the web, this craft supply shop has some bottles you might like: http://www.artfire.c...duct_id=2125609 http://www.artfire.c...duct_id=2125596 http://www.artfire.c...duct_id=2125603 http://www.artfire.c...duct_id=2125607 http://www.artfire.c...duct_id=2129464 <=== 6 oz corked square bottle!

I've got to get a picture of it soon, but a friend bought one without a lock. A large Siler was darn near a drop in fit.

I'm not QMJ, but do you mean this? http://www.plimoth.c...ase-bottle.html That isn't where I got mine, but it's the first I could find online looking for case bottle/bottles That's the only consistent source other than Jamestown of which I know. Several sutlers resell the Jamestown bottles, so I am not counting them as different sources. Personally, I like the Jamestown bottles best. Best price too. Otherwise, keep a weather eye out on eBay and thrift stores.

Rum filled Wench! Snapsack or market wallet?

1) Sounds like a reproduction 1780 Tower. Does it look like these: 2) FWIW: Just because the lock sparks does not mean a gun was meant to be fired. There are a lot of replica (replica, not reproduction) guns out there of varying quality and detail, including working metal locks. The critical factors are the breech and barrel, and whether they are designed to withstand firing pressures. If your gun is as pictured above, it is probably from Miroku and is a serviceable piece. 3) If as above, yes. Is yours fitted with a belt clip? 4) Are you sure it's rust and not that the gun has been browned? (See lower pistol in picture above). 5) This sounds more like a mainspring issue. The frizzen spring is the spring on the front of the lock. It just holds the frizzen closed. Different issues of these guns came with different locks. The two pistols pictured are good examples of this. Go to my album of them ( http://s256.photobuc...20Two%20Towers/ ) for more detailed photographs and comments about the two guns and their locks. 6) Okay, not sure what you mean by the gun no longer having as much kick then. Please explain further. Y.M.H.S. QMJ

And you can buy these too: http://www.sansebastianwinery.com/cart/display.php?pid=11209&detail=true&hits_seen=

Aye! Best Wishes for a Most Happy Birthday!

Barque; requires fewer crew. Punctuation, capitalization, or proper grammar?

Well, I don't know what's going on with that message. I cleaned it up as best I could. Kinda strange though: the parts that aren't fixed, it wont let me fix. I keep getting the message that I have to enter a post. Mind you, I've got the post open for editing and it gives me this! Couldn't even add this one last line: There's no need to re-invent the wheel; there are plenty of reenactors in Canada.

Okay, we'll take this point by point... Flintlock pistols of modern manufacture are restricted weapons. You will need either a POL (Possession Only License) or a PAL (Possession and Acquisition License) to own one. Additionally, the individual gun will need to be registered. A verifiable antique pistol is exempt from the licensing and registration requirement. Additionally, flintlock long-guns of modern manufacture are exempt from the licensing and registration requirement. What makes a long-gun? Strangely, modern regulations make no comment specific to blunderbusses . What they do tell us is that "firearms which can be fired when reduced to a length of less than 660mm (26 inches)" fall into the "restricted" class (i.e.: license and registration required). http://www.panda.com...uns/#restricted There are further definitions that would put s short gun into the prohibited class save that they apply to altered guns and not firearms manufactured with short barrels. See: http://www.panda.com/canadaguns/#prohibited <span style="font-size: 13.5pt;" book="" antiqua="" ;="">Now, to my mind SHOOT=live fire. I understand from your subsequent comment, however, that your main intention is to fire blank loads. This notwithstanding, if your gun <i>can </i>fire live ammunition it is a firearm and is regulated as such. I have no information to offer regarding noise-making replica guns or theatrical props. Whether you will be allowed to fire blank loads at any given event is going to be subject to the rules of that event, municipal regulations, etc.</span> Not a problem for non-restricted weapons, such as a flintlock long-gun. Restricted weapons, such as a modern flintlock pistol, require an Authorization To Transport. See: http://www.panda.com/canadaguns/#att FWIW: it wouldn't hurt to be proactive and remove the lock when transporting either class of gun. This would also best protect the lock during a long trip. Duly noted. That too should not be a problem. It might make things easier during border crossings to not try to carry BP with you, but to arrange for some to be available to you at the event. To reiterate: you only need a verifiable antique if you are trying to avoid licensing and registration requirements. That's all I really have on this subject save to suggest you contact a black powder club in your area for more "hands on" information. Y.M.H.S. QMJ