Mick MacAnselan

Duncan, Thanks. I was thinking of that exemption too, except that it wouldn't cover times when you don't actually shoot the bloody thing, as backwards as that sounds. I might just bite the bullet (no pun) and get a carry license, and not worry about it. Hey, check your Pub messages for incoming.

I stained the wood on the kit a couple days ago, and something weird happened. On each side of the grip, I got a lite 'stripe' running down the side, following the basic contour, with really dark patches in front of and behind the stripe, as if the wood were something really soft like pine and stained unevenly. Also, after staining, I could see what looks like cutting marks unrelated to the grain that were absolutely invisible (and unfeelable) before, and re-sanding the area down/restaining doesn't get rid of it. It's as if the cut marks somehow permanently sealed the grain at those points. Anyone else have these problems? I guess it adds character to the piece, but it wasn't something I was expecting.

What would be the period correct way to 'rustproof' the steel barrel on a flintlock pistol? Browning or blueing? I know browning makes metal look older, but it wouldn't have looked older when it was new, and I've also heard that the older 'browning' recipes actually decribed a process that creates more of a blueing effect. So what's right? TIA.

Kass, do you have a link to the state trooper site? TIA. Also, found THIS which looks like a print of the actual statute. Alas it looks like there were no typos at the other site.

I did some research and it's a bit confusing. Here's a quote from PA Title 18, Chapter 61, Subchapter A - Uniform Firearms Act... It appears that the Subchapter (i.e. the Uniform Firearms Act) does not apply to Antiques, EXCEPT for section 6106, which is the section that says you need a carry license except for specific exemptions (law enforcement, target shooting, etc. etc.) (Subsection A is the 'General Rule' about antiques... so there's an exception to the exception) So the way I read it, unless you're doing very specific activities, you need a carry license to transport a flintlock pistol in your vehicle in PA. Hope I'm wrong though! Should mention I got this from This here webpage

Hoping someone knows... In Pennsylvania, you can carry a 'handgun' (such as a Queen Anne Flintllock Pistol) in a vehicle without a carry license if it's unloaded and you're on your way to or from a legal shooting place. Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be the same exemption for carrying to/from a non-shooting reenactment. So in that case, what would you have to do to a flintlock so that it is no longer considered a firearm? Remove the flint? Fill the barrel with concrete? Anyone know?

I think the casting must have changed. Or maybe they have more than one, since some have had problems and others haven't. Mine will definitely need to be bent (at first I thought the solution might be as you described, but it's not the case). In two places. First in the spot some others have had a problem with, and second, the short curved piece that sits behind ('parallel to') the trigger is bent forward and 'down' so that it interferes with the trigger. If it were just the rear end, I could probably just gently bend it with a hammer, but the piece behind the trigger is just too hard to get a 'swing' at (no room). I think I'll have to anneal it.

Okay, nevermind. Once I realized that the trigger plate was going to have to align with the tang screw as well as the screw recess in the barrel, I also realized that the hole was going to have to be enlarged with a drill bit to get enough 'play' to allow alignment. Now the whole thing is together except for the trigger guard, which is going to have to be bent pretty far to fit. Guess I'll disassemble, sand and finish the stock, reassemble, and bend the trigger guard. And I thought this was going to be an quick project. I suppose it would have been easier with instructions written by an English speaker and actually for the same pistol.

Started working on my queen ann kit today. When the tang screw gets most of the way through the stock, it's at just enough off of 90 degrees from the top of the barrel that the cylindrical head of the screw won't go into the recessed seat in the barrel. I'm think about using a round file to widen the hole in the stock, but I worry about this, since the tang screw is what holds the barrel to the stock, and don't want it to be 'loose'. I'm assuming we want an 'interference fit' here. Anyone else have this problem? TIA.

GoF, Do you know what size (width) latches these shoes will have? I had ordered a pair of buckles from GGG, but found out today they are discontinued, so if I'm going to find a new source, I figure I should get the size exactly right. TIA.

IIRC, blue and white checked shirts were specified in one of the Admiralty contracts, so I reckon it's more than likely that some pirates wore them. As for blue jackets... dunno, but I think grey was specified at one point.

I figured (hoped) my crew would be 'the TARDIS crew', since DW is the only SF TV I really love. I even went so far as to think about each question from the (fourth) Doctor's point of view before answering. Here's my result. 3-way tie... Serenity (Firefly) 100% SG-1 (Stargate) 100% Babylon 5 (Babylon 5) 100% I guess the author of the test has never seen Doctor Who! Oh well, one good solid hope's worth a cartload of certainties.

Petee, Thanks again. I was thinking about doing that very thing. Kass, Thanks. When does 'pre-ordering' start for this one, or has it already?

Petee, Thanks, but I think that pattern is for later than GAoP. I thought GAoP would have a button fly and actual pockets (not just pocket slits to allow you to get at the pockets of breches underneath). I'd be more than happy to be proved wrong though!

I think I'm going to try to make a pair of slops without a pattern. (I really wish I had a pattern, but GAoP style slop patterns don't seem to exist.) What would be the best or most appropriate type/weight of linen to use? I'm thinking 'heavy and soft' but don't know what that would translate into as far as weight and hand description. TIA!

I've pretty much chosen to buy a Queen Anne kit. Colonial Gun Works sells the Pedersoli Queen Anne kit at the lowest price I've seen ($200). So... - Anyone ever bought anything from Colonial Gun Works and how was the experience? - I've read reviews of the Pedersoli kit and more than one person has snapped off part of the trigger guard while trying to bend it to fit the stock. Anyone built the Pedersoli kit and Not had a problem with this, or have a suggestion about how to make the metal more pliable prior to bending? TIA!

I just heard back from C&D Jarnagin, and their reply implies that I should cut the latchets down myself. Now I'd probably be comfortable trimmimg a wee bit off, but I'm not so sure about taking 3/4" off myself. I'll follow up and beg some more...

Thanks Josh and GoF. I have contacted C&D Jarnigan about making a pair with the narrower latches. We'll see what they say. ("Ahh yes, the JoshuaRed Special model, one of our top sellers...") Oh hey, they seem to offer a 'tunnel stitch' option for the piece that reinforces the heel. Would that be the way to go? They say the tunnel stitch is very early 18th century style on their web site. GoF, thanks for reminding me about the group buy. Do you have a best guess for how long until 'full production' assuming the sample is good? If it's not in the near future, I'll probably go ahead and buy elsewhere, then probably get a pair from the group buy too as a second pair.

Thanks Kass. I'm guessing each leg should be slashed on the 'outside' part of the leg, so there is something to 'close' with the button band? TIA.

Joshua, Thanks! Looking at the buckles at the link you provided and the pictures of your shoes, I'm guessing buckle #21. Does that sound right? If so, would brass or white bronze be more appropriate? TIA! Edit Added: Also, is smooth or rough out better for the shoes? TIA.

Thanks Kass! (Wow, that was fast.) I like the button idea. I'll have to see if I have any appropriate size buttons around. Do you know how far below the knee the bottom of the legs should be? (Now that I know how I'm going to finish them, that little question suddenly leaped to mind.) TIA!

I recently made a pair of breeches. No pattern, and it shows! :) Have only worn them once, tucked into (gasp) bucket boots (not a reenactment occasion - fantasy all the way), so all I did to the bottom of the legs was a running stich to keep the linen from unraveling. Now I want to do the legs bottoms right. What would be the period correct way to terminate the legs (hem, button, tie, etc?), for breeches that should (as I understand it) be tucked into the tops of stockings? TIA!

GoF, I've been reading your web page again (always an expensive habit). I take it that one of the tricks with GAoP shoes is getting the buckles right, because nobody makes shoes 'stock' with the right ones. So what type of buckles should I be looking for, i.e. size, shape, and material? Also, have you been successful getting appropriate shoes and buckles from the same source, or did you have to mix and match, specifying a particular latchet size, then getting buckles elsewhere? TIA!

www.leatherworks.com doesn't seem to exist. At least not this morning according to my DNS server. (I thought I'd go there and have a look. I wanted to see a picture of the $400 coat with fake pockets!)

Sorry, didn't think there were any other events called "The Privateer Feast" that I've ever heard of. Yes, it's the Save the Boobies fundraiser at the Cherry Hill conference center (College Park, MD). I do have tickets (it sold out in something like 3 hours). Just wondering who else from the board might be going.