Hawkyns

The term can be documented to ECW and to the colonial period. http://www.crookedtreefarm.com/history/snapsack/snapsack.html Hawkyns

The first mess kit that I can document shows up around the end of the 18th century, They really start to be adopted in the Napoleonic period. Neither Neumann and Kravic nor Peterson mentions them in their Rev War encyclopedias. The folding skillet that is so often copied is suspect, also. What you would see is a copper or tin small kettle, perhaps a nest of two. A knife, spoon, and perhaps a small mug would complete the rig. If there is documentation that such a mess kit predates the Revwar, I would truly like to see it. Hawkyns

I have no doubt that they carried such items. I think the question is in how they carried them. Hanging from various loops or hangers on the belt would be a nightmare. On ship they would catch on rigging and ship's gear, on a march across Hispaniola, they would catch on every bush. I would guess that they carried them in snapsacks (tubular bags slung across the back), in ditty or small seabags slung the same way, or perhaps in some type of haversack. I also have seen the collections of crap that pirates like to hang on their belts at ren fairs and it looks ridiculous. Tankards, floggers, shackles- non of these would be carried when not needed and rarely , if ever, off the ship. Enough knives to start their own cutlery store- I carry a sword, a fighting knife and a working knife. Why would I need more? The one thing I rarely see, and which would be much more likely to be on the belt would be a small charge box and a small powder horn. I see lots of people carrying pistols with no way to reload them. Hawkyns

Actually, Hurricane, I think we have met. Back in 2003, we were part of a group that had dinner together at a bar over by the Marina at an early PiP. Hawkyns

Check out your supermarket's Hispanic section. They generally have a brand or two. Just make sure it says ginger BEER. Hawkyns

Not sure if this is the right place, but put me down on the list. I'll be merchanting- the company is At The Sign Of The White Rose. I'll be participating in some of the battles, also. I'll probably be singlehanding this one. Merchandise is historic accurate clothing, accoutrements and the like. Definitely amimed more to supplying the reenactor more than souvenirs for the punters. Hawkyns

Interesting. I'm less concerned with the flash than I am with flying flint chips. I've been hit with those at distances of 10 feet and they hurt. I've worn the wide brimmed hats while firing flintlocks and its never bothered me. Of course, I'm used to a matchlock going off inches in front of my face, so the flash from the flint doesn't seem so much, even under the hat. You are correct, though, Micheal. The more military reenactors that come over, the more safety regs you will see. Some sites' insurance do ask what safety rules are in place and expect those to be from one of the nationally known groups like BB, BAR, or CL. Hawkyns

Just a question here, but why not have the safety devices? Not being of your crew, and since all of my pieces already have guards and stalls, it's not an issue for me, but I would like to know. Anything that I run requires them, no matter what date. It's part of the safety inspection. Stall and guards, open pouches and verify there is no ball, hang the piece by the trigger on half cock to make sure it works and spring the rammer to verify the barrel is clear. That's standard at any 17th and 18th century event, whether for line troops or skirmishers. Safety is always the primary consideration. Hawkyns

OK, let me ask a couple of questions. One, the tavern that I've seen pictures of for after the public leaves- is that in the same area of the fort as the sutlers? Two, are sutlers allowed to camp in their booths? Three, what sort of food options are there for sutlers who do live in their booths( since I assume no cooking fires would be allowed in the fort)? Hawkyns

Now that the East Coast Reenactorfest has been cancelled, I'm considering bringing the store to PiP. But I have a question. Are there period merchants in the fort with the period camps? We do a period store, only period merchandise in a period pavillion. Obviously, we are geared to selling to the reenactor, not the public. Is this sort of thing worth considering, or should I scrap the idea now? Hawkyns

Exactly correct, gunner Gordon. The idea of large hot shot is so that even with a couple of buckets of water poured over it, the mass retains enough heat to still set planking on fire. If you look at hot shot furnaces (there's a nice one at Fort Niagara and another at Castillo San Marcos) they are made for 18 pounders. Small shot just would not have the same effect. As far as putting it in a pistol barrel, the barrel itself would trransfer heat, and having enough damp wadding to isolate the coals would probably dampen your powder to the point it would not fire. Either way, its a pointless excersize. The Mythbusters show was indeed badly flawed. I've been to Fort Nelson and seen the actual ship's side they recreated to test the Mary Rose cannon. 3 foot splinters, 2-3 inches thick. If you can find a copy of the show they did on that, it is far more accurate. Also, considering that the splintering effect is written up in all the period gunnery manuals, do we really think they were joking about this? Hawkyns

Bilgemunky- it's the perspective I have. I don't do faires, so I don't see that type of person. When we go to a bar in kit, it's generally on the way home from an event, so we are in our usual appearance. From April to November I spend at least 3 weekends a month under canvas, whether it be pirate, border reiver, or RevWar gunner. We've been hired for a few events, but we don't change our operational standards for them. I understand that not everybody lives like I do (I feel sorry for them, but I understand ). On the other hand, as QM James said, everybody has dirty jobs to do wherever they live, from painting the bathroom, to changing the oil, to mowing the lawn. That's why I asked the question. With so many opportunities to crud up clothing naturally, doing the movie FX stuff just didn't make sense. Hawkyns

Nah, I'm not buying it. I had a day job with a dress code until last year and it never affected my kit. You get home on Friday, put on the kit, load up, travel, go through the event and travel home. Just loading the car will put stains and pulls on the kit. Sleeping in your kit will put the creases in, add sweat stains, and add the appropriate funk. Yes, it takes two or three events, but that's not that long. I'd rather see someone in new kit that is working in, than have them show up in something that looks fake. As far as being around "normal" people, it's a different attitude. Yeah, I know I'm a reenactor and a hard core one. But I've never shrunk from telling the public the truth or portraying it, no matter how disagreeable they may find it. I'd rather they back off a couple of feet, rather than bow to their expectations "normal" or Hollywood. Hawkyns

OK, this is kicking around in Twill, and now in the Market, but the question doesn't really belong in either. Why take all the time to artificially age clothing, when just wearing it properly will do the same job? Is it your clothing, or just a costume you put on occasionally? From reading some of this, it seems that people want to look like a pirate, but wouldn't really go to the length of actually getting dirty and smelly. No matter how you do it, fake looks fake at anything less than ten feet. Even the pro costume wonks do this to be seen at a distance or on film, not in one to one contact. The only way to age clothing naturally and have it look right is to wear it doing the dirty jobs, wear it in the rain, wear it for a few days straight, wash it occaisionally in harsh detergent and never dry clean it. I guess I just don't get it. And it's not just the clothing. There is a reluctance, nay a hard opposition to really doing this. A dirty pirate with carefully washed hair, neatly shaven face, and smelling of modern deoderant and toothpaste, or with fancy hairstyle, modern makeup and painted nails just doesn't make the look believable. All the aging in the world will not overcome the modern look and smell of the person underneath. So please people, tell me why. Hawkyns

My pirate kit IS clothing. I wore it yesterday at the Burning of the Gaspee commemeration in Rhode Island. My slops have powder stains. My underbelt is sweat stained and showing signs of stretching. My shirt has a stained collar and frayed cuffs. The lining of my jacket has shrunk at a different rate from the shell, so it hangs funny. I think that is the difference. A costume will always look like a costume, now matter how you artifically age it. Make it out of good wool, linen, and 100% cotton. Use real leather without waterproof finishes for belts and gear. And then treat it as would have been treated on board ship. My shirts gets washed every 3 or 4 wearings, maybe more. My jacket gets washed when I'm out in the rain. My slops, once or twice a season. My hose have worn away at the heels and are fraying at the top. What I see is people who take the time to artificially age clothing, but then treat it like modern clothes. Shirts washed every wearing and a clean shirt each day. Jackets and coats dry cleaned. They take the time to create a costume look, but wouldn't dream of wearing the same shirt for 3 or 4 days straight. To do this right, you need to be willing to ditch many modern notions of hygene. One of the things that ruins a look for me is to see someone who has taken the time to age the kit, but when they walk past, you smell fabric softener, and antiperspirant. Above and beyond ruining the image, that kind of clothing care works against the look you are trying to get. Trust me, a hot July camping event, 3 or 4 days in 90 degree weather, chopping wood, coking on the fire, firing and cleaning weapons, and doing some swordplay, wearing the same clothes for the entire time and you'll get a far more authentic look thatn anything you can do with coffee grounds and sandpaper. if you wnat to look like them, you have to live like them. Hawkyns

To return to the original topic, why artificially age things? I've seen this argument many times and in many different forums. Even in period, everything had to be new at some point. The best way to age your kit is just to wear it. Travel in it to the event. Put it on before you set up your tent. Wash dishes, clean firearms, cook over the fire, swab the cannon. Put it on to weed your garden and mow your lawn. If you are lucky enough to have a ship to work on, wear it every minute you are on board, including sleeping. This will put stains in the right places and wear marks where they should be. Artificially aged looks artificially aged. Not a good idea. Hawkyns

Making your own black powder is a recipe for disaster. I've been working with BP and pyrotechnics for over a quarter century and am really comfortable around the stuff. I will not, under any circumstances, even attempt to make my own. The companies who make it have the right facilities, safety protocols, and training to do this without losing limbs and life. DON'T DO IT!!!!! Hawkyns

Matt, is there a reason you put the shell guard down as a sword catcher, rather than up as a knuckle protector? I know it's an old and tired discussion, but I've always preferred the knuckle protector, so I'm interested in why people choose the other style. I choose up for two reasons. One, I think esthetically, it keeps the sweep of the blade intact, rather than putting a barrier to the shape. Two, being that I do a lot of stage and reeanctment combat, I find it protects my hand better. Inquiring minds want to know. Absolutely drop dead gorgeous work. My compliments. Hawkyns

Silas, what unit is the Officer from? It looks like a Royal Artillery uniform, but not one that I'm familiar with. Hawkyns (Gunner, Royal Irish Artillery)

Do a search on Sinclair Sabers. They were a type of infantry hanger from the late 16th, early 17th centuries, Named, supposedly, after a Scottish captain who commanded a mercenary force. Years ago, Museum Reps had one in their catalogue, when they were doing better work. I wish there were more out there. As a late 16th c persona, I'd like a couple of my crew to have them. I made mine by attaching an old schiavona hilt to a cutlass blade. The extra weight of the hilt gives a better balance to the piece and makes it much easier to snap around. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...sa%3DN%26um%3D1 On the original question, I have a Loyalist Arms blunerbuss that I've been very happy with, but I know nothing about their blades. Hawkyns

Ah, Bash the SCA time again, eh? I love the people who like to bash the Society while wearing bloody cocked hats, justaucorps, and carrying flintlocks. Yes, that would a large number of the socalled "pyrates" who attend events that are supposed to be pre 1600. No the Society is not perfect. In my 30 years as a member, a number of us have done our best to make it better, and we have had some success. Come to me or my house and give me a hard time and you'll get it right back. Show up in non period kit just to be an asshole and you will find it's more trouble than it's worth. Show up on my gun line at Pennsic with a flintlock and you will be asked to return it to your tent. Yes, I'm the Master Gunner. To return to the subject at hand. The miquelet appears to be one sold by Dixie a few years ago. Supposedly, they were from a batch produced for export to Africa in the late 19th century. I've got one sitting in storage now, waiting for the right inspiration to hit. I'm thinking that I may turn it into a grenade launcher if I can get the right parts. I have two of the Schroter wheellocks, a rifled light horse carbine, and a German pistol. Both decent pieces, but if I want to do any serious shooting, I'll use my matchlocks. I've got one that was produced for a german shooting team in the 70's, and an early John Buck convertible. 4 inch groupings at 50 yds, unpatched, a .595 ball in a .62 cal barrel, 75 gr of FF. Hawkyns

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For myself, reworking a dagger to a diamond section 16th C parry dagger. Rebuilding my belt rig to include a pouch for period cleaning and sharpening supplies. For the shop, baldrics, a couple of cutlasses, some cartridge boxes, and some boot knives. Hawkyns

When it comes to sword carriage, I've always preferred the baldric to the waist belt. I can shift the sword from at my side for quick draw to across my butt where it's out of the way. Also, with some of the heavier swords and cutlasses, which I prefer, the belt always seems to be dragging down on the left side. I have seen some doublets that had metal hooks sewn in to support the belt, but they are not a universal thing. Hawkyns

I've worn the bandolier for nigh on 20 years. Never had the problem with it sliding where it shouldn't be. More often it's the opposite, can't drag it round easily when I need to get to the bottles on the back. (Apostles is not a period term, it seems to come in in the 19th century.) Now, my bandolier is belt leather, 6oz, and not finished on the back. That, combined with a wool soldier's coat or doublet and it seems to act almost like velcro. The reference I've seen for the shoulder knot is actually a holdover from the matchlock days, where the corporals and serjeants carried extra match for their squads. The knot is a representation of that extra match. Hawkyns