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jendobyns

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  1. do they look like these? http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?products_id=88
  2. Thought this was worth forwarding to folks on the list who drink more than rum DEBORAH PETERSON'S PANTRY is pleased to announce our 5th foodways symposium ".Drink.friendly to Nature.and accommodated to General use."[1] on April 9, 2010 at Pennsbury Manor, 400 Pennsbury Memorial Road, Morrisville, PA 19067 215-946-0400 http://www.pennsburymanor.org/ Join us for a day of engaging speakers, first-hand views, and shared research about beer, wine and cider produced and consumed during the colonial period. Highlights include the following: Porter and the Industrialization of Brewing - Frank Clark, Supervisor of Historic Foodways - Colonial Williamsburg. Learn about the evolution of the brews and brewing process based on this 20+ years of research. Wine, a brisk agreeable, spirituous and cordial liquir,. - Clarissa F. Dillon PhD - Gain a better understanding of production and consumption of wine during the 18th century. Colonial Cider - Charlie Thomforde - Discover the process of making sweet cider and [hard] cider during the colonial period. Historical Brewing: Practical Considerations for the Brewer - Robert Davis, Brewery consultant & historian - Explore the realities of producing your own beers based on historic receipts. The $75 registration fee includes a resource packet including receipts for each 18th-century dish served at lunch, a light breakfast at registration, lunch featuring period-correct dishes, a potluck dinner, tour of Pennsbury Manor, and access to some well-known historians. We have also arranged for a select group of sutlers to sell their wares during the course of Saturday's program. After the formal presentations and tour of the site, join everyone for a potluck dinner beginning at 5:00 p.m. Network and relax with other foodies and historians to share your read-to-serve food item. We hope you will join us even if you are not able to travel with food. there will be plenty for all! The nearby Hampton Inn & Suites has agreed to offer a special discount to attendees of the symposium of $89.00 a night (regular rate is $139.00) Information on obtaining this special rate will be provided to registered attendees. On Sunday, April 10, 2011, PAST MASTERS in Early American Domestic Arts is offering an open-hearth cooking workshop to recreate 18th-century dishes that use beer, wine and cider. The workshop will take place in the reconstructed hearths of Pennsbury Manor from 9:30 a.m. - 3:00 p.m. with a maximum of 24 people on a first come, first served basis. Cost: $40 per person. To register for the symposium (and workshop) visit www.deborahspantry.com to register using PayPal. Or, you may call 215-256-4615 to register by credit card, or you may send your check or money order, payable to Deborah Peterson's Pantry to - DEBORAH PETERSON'S PANTRY 327 Sumneytown Pike Harleysville, PA 19538-1249
  3. This gentleman lists both Jamestown and another glasblower as making custom blown glassware. So you might want to contact them and find out if they'll do what you need. Sounds like most of the work is already done, just working out size and price with them. http://www.livinghistoryshop.com/resources.html For that matter, it might be worth googling other glassblowers to find out if they'll also do the work, or if a school could hand off the project to a student for a good price. Mistress Dobyns
  4. I'm not QMJ, but do you mean this? http://www.plimoth.com/reproductions/case-bottle.html That isn't where I got mine, but it's the first I could find online looking for case bottle/bottles
  5. Welcome aboard! Love the avatar, do I see Pirates of Penzance?
  6. Welcome aboard! You've found good company here. It's a privilege to have a member from such a historically rich part of the world. And your English fine! Certainly better than my primary school French (and I suspect you're probably the only one on this list who might also speak Bretton or Gallo, eh?) Jen Dobyns
  7. Ok, some time in the last couple of weeks I finally posted a pic of DH's first shoes, the remodeled ones from the thrift store, but I don't remember if it showed up in the gallery at the top of the Pub page. But it should be in mine. And, talking to a friend the other day who is trying to do this on a dime, she's noticed while searching the thrift stores that the shoes with the most potential have been Italian. Something to think about.
  8. Thanks, Hurricane. That was timely. We just mixed up a batch of punch last night. It'll be a bit green for New Year's (not that anyone's likely to mind) but should be nice and mellow in a week, then we'll bottle it up. So, did this book inspire you to start making up your own?
  9. Yes, there will be a 2011 event planned, and it will be held on APRIL 16TH, with the ball Friday night the 15th. More details will be available later in January. Duncan Yaaaaayyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!!!!! That means there's no conflict with the foodways symposium!!!!! *doin' a happy dance* And there I was, thinking I'd have to miss something
  10. I don't know why you say that wool doesn't dye that well. It takes a great number of colors in a veritable rainbow of shades. One needs to understand dye chemistry to a certain extent, but a basic dye bath of dyestuff, mordant and water + heat, can yield some results even for a beginner. Walnut hulls (the nuts are not necessary) should work for just about anyone, possibly too well. Just look around at a rendezvous, there's an entire population of guys wearing walnut dyed clothing! If you just want it to look messy and used, put on a pair of rubber gloves, pick up some black walnuts (this works well when they're still green and juicy), bruise them and rub them where you want the color. I don't recommend dyeing a finished garment made of wool. You're likely to end up with something a bit smaller than you'd like. This page shows some samples of dyed wool (granted, it's Navajo, but some of the dyes are also used in European textiles from the period) http://weavinginbeauty.com/workshops/dyeretreatsamplesandclassbegins And in this video, a woman takes you through a sample book. She gets to walnut dyed yarn around 1:15 or so. www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-dJuus0BlQ the video is called: Nancy Today: Natural dye 92) sample book of... (in case the link doesn't work). Wearing your clothing as much as possible seems to be the best way to age things realistically. I have known people who hang their clothing out on the clothesline for weeks to let the weather get to it, but you'll need to hang it so it looks like it would when wearing it, not so you get the wear marks & sun bleaching half way down your breeches where they were folded over the line. Volunteer to muck stalls and do yard work in your period clothes. That'll do the trick, trust me! Nothing like horse sneezes to mess up a god jacket
  11. however I have not seen nor read anywhere of their findings after 1500/1600 ? ************************* To reply to m'self, I just came across this "The History of Leather Drinking Vessels" on a UK page; they claim: and they go on to say they were still used in the 20th century and popular among the mining and steel industries; but I digress as we are all 'dead' by this time... The History of Leather Drinking Vessels Oh, those Royal Armories leather jacks are lovely!
  12. thanks jendobyns. these pictures are cool and it's extra nice that the paintings are Spanish!! So... now I want to have a CHOCOLATE POT also... Ah, yes, please let me know when you find a source for those*G* And when I get my chocolate cakes to look like the ones in the paintings, I will be a happy woman indeed. Just need more practice with the right tools. The source? That's easy it's already on this thread... My link ... scroll 2/3 down fore the 1703 version like on the paintings... Oops, sorry about that, I was thinking ceramic! The copper are definitely available, and he does excellent work. I may just spring for one of Peter's, as the copper is so much more durable. My brain's just been stuck on ceramics lately, bein' a Redcoat officer's wife and all.
  13. Thanks for that, and the previous one as well. My holiday reading list is becoming quite full *G* The pics from the QAR look just like the things I was finding in the earlier artwork. I love it when art and archaeology converge
  14. thanks jendobyns. these pictures are cool and it's extra nice that the paintings are Spanish!! So... now I want to have a CHOCOLATE POT also... Ah, yes, please let me know when you find a source for those*G* And when I get my chocolate cakes to look like the ones in the paintings, I will be a happy woman indeed. Just need more practice with the right tools.
  15. I just love Julia's stuff. Have a few pieces of it 'round here, they are all beautiful. And she is such a nice person!
  16. Thanks for the early Christmas present! That's such a cool reference.
  17. art with metal and ceramic shapes for plates, etc: Date range 1600-1700: http://www.vads.ahds.ac.uk/large.php?uid=86694&sos=2 While the date is early, I find it interesting that the blue and white ceramics are painted (and possibly shaped) like later period ceramics: http://www.vads.ahds.ac.uk/x-large.php?uid=89508&sos=2 I think these would most likely have been Chinese in origin. After surfing around looking at other still life paintings, the majority of earlier period pewter plates (no bowls seen at all in pewter) seem to be basic, un-ornamented round shapes. I do know an archaeologist who would be familiar with artifacts from the period and will check in with her over the holidays to see what she says. It'll be interesting to find out. Very interesting to see that Wilton calls this pattern Country French. The pics I"ve found of anything close to that so far have been Spanish *G*
  18. OK, here's one for a start: http://www.nga.gov/exhibitions/2009/melendez/index.shtm You want painting #15, although the rest of his stuff is really cool (the cork "wine cooler" got a lot of attention with the RevWar folks) Late for GAoP, the artist was born 1715. And I'm just starting to look for samples from earlier.
  19. My (limited) sources tell me that the shape is Queens shape (for the plates and bowls in the picture). Block molds *for ceramics* to cast elaborate shapes for plates, teapots, tankards, etc. had been established in use by the 1730's. This variation on an earlier, barley pattern style (where the plate rim was divided into sections where now you just see an indentation) appears to date later into the 18th century. Iirc, second half, 1760's or so. I've seen this shape in metal (there's a still life or two that shows metal plates in this shape) but I seem to recall them being later half of 18C, too. Worth digging around in the arts sites. Lots to do, so I can't get into too thorough a search at the moment. Maybe when the dust settles 'round here and I can surf and dig in the books. I know of at least one pic in my collection here that shows it, by a Spanish artist. Hope this helps somewhat!
  20. Great! I'm going to check with the guy who made them first, give him a chance to stand by his product (they've barely been used and shouldn't be having this problem), but if that doesn't fly, I'll be talking to you about fixing it (or them, need to check the rest of the set). And I might know other folks whose copper needs re-tinning, so PM me if you're interested in my sharing your info with them, and info about how much it would cost (rough estimates, of course), please? Thanks!
  21. Can you do re-tinning on things like the copper pot? Mine has a worn spot and looks like it might be down to the copper.
  22. That depends. They were still making them well into the 1960's or 70's, complete with a Playboy bunny logo on them
  23. Interesting. I had always heard that the reason there were glass bottoms was so the drinker could check and make sure there were no coins in the bottom. If the King's recruiting sergeant was buying drinks, a ploy to get recruits to "take the king's shilling", thus essentially signing on to military service, was to put the coin in the tankard. When they got to the bottom they'd pick it up out of the tankard ( lookit this! there's money in me grog!), thus "taking the King's shilling". I'd also heard they were a 19C invention. Worth doing some research again, I guess, to make sure what I remember isn't another reenactorism or museum myth perpetuated from docent to docent.
  24. I think Quartermaster James has hit some good points here already. And below is the reply from our unit's acting gunsmith/gun repair guy (and county cop), Dave Woolsey (which seems to have some overlap with QM James): OK first what is "weak"? Does the frizzen not stay closed when the gun is pointed down, or if it is shaken? Does the gun not throw a proper spark? Does the frizzen spring not actually hold the frizzen closed? I ask as these are very important, for a proper flintlock the frizzen spring has a very small task, to hold the frizzen closed during movement of the gun, but it really doesn't deal with ignition, it can only enhance it. IF for example the frizzen doesn't spark well, that's probably a function of a bad frizzen, or a bad mainspring, not the frizzen spring. First, the easiest way to deal with the problem is to contact Track of The Wolf, and buy a hard copy of their catalog…, which has pictures of locks in a 1:1 ratio, so you can hold parts up from odd locks to the photos, and see if the currently produced locks have a part that will fit, or can be modified to fit. It's pretty easy and it's why they do the catalog that way. Otherwise, the way to fix the spring, is to have it heated to a dull red, then bent. (A lesser color won't allow the metal to bend) It is then quenched in Canola oil, (I noticed the pirate consulted didn't mention quenching) and the spring will then be brittle. It must then be retempered by heating it to about 600-700 degrees, and the easiest way is to submerge it in melted alloy of lead and tin, for twenty minutes or so, and then to allow it to air cool. The next way is to have a spring made for the gun.
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