HarborMaster

Good to know Loyalist has a US dealer too., I had to be extreme careful with that brass buss to get the breach out and drill., its always better to have it come ready to shoot., thats for sure!., Anything you buy from MH your going to have to drill. That Ships carbine that we just recieved was Middlesex and it also was ready to go folks .., no drilling needed. Yup its Annie in the Brass. I havent had a good experience with Cherrys., perhaps others have....,Dixie has been very prompt every time for me. Most Queen Annes will be Pedrosoli..., whom ever you order it from . The Pedrosoli is probably the best quality any of my flinters. Their machine work and parts interchangability is 2nd to none.

mmmm I dunno.,a Queen Anne is a tasty choice.,I wouldnt be without mine.,the dragoon is great but after ya get ta lookin at that Cannon shaped barrel on the Queen Anne it seems to become one of the favorites. Choose wisely...., then again.,later you can always choose more

It was probably Pre-Gastroel Insomnia., accompanied by Post Upper Abdominal Distinction., I would avoid a Rooter Man carrying a 6-Pak of Vaseline and a Spatula at all cost.., and be leary of a water jetter. Sleep with one eye open mate an keep a plunger within quik reach. Do you have any Blackpowder?

Thanks Kass and Patrick., I think I will take the Concord., I do like the uppers on them. I will look into the Barbara also., I wear an 8 1/2 they may work., I believe GoF ., or was it Foxe?., one was working on the Buckle....., now dont get me wrong everyone., I am not a convert I am gonna get these ( I am looking forward to them) however., at night in our bar and stomping around the cannons on our beach head...., I may be seen in my boots too., cant help it., I think I am somewhere caught up in the middle.

Which Buckle would then be the appropiate one to choose? and which shoe do you think is the right one Kass.,the Legioneer.,the franklin or the concord? Being all about the same price it wouldnt matter.,howverthe Concord really lloks good. It would seem the legioeen might be better?

Sure her ya go Fugawee I am sort of confused here. After all the discussions on correctness ..., why is a colonial shoe thru the civil war considered to be good to wear with a GAoP kit? I dont mean to offend anyone., but now where on Fugawee do they Mention the GAoP other than Straight lasted was asole design. its not my words.., these are the words of Fugawee. Civil War-Colonial . "1758 or Ligonier Model. " "The left/right Franklin is made of black calfskin. It has a normal heel and is leather lined. The toe is slightly squared but not square enough to limit the style to pre-1735. " "The toe of the Concord is a little more round than the Franklin's, bringing the style closer to the shoes found at Ft. Ligonier. We took the pattern for the Franklin uppers and formed them over a last taken from an 1860's military shoe. " I was just wondering if someone could help me with the connection between the GAoP and the Rev War ? I have been duly notified on more than one occasion that most all of my things are wrong and I would not want to buy some shoes that we adding to my problem. Are Concords right for say 1680 thru 1720 ? I realise a "Straight Lasted Shoe was the norm for a couple hundred years., but the uppers went thru some changes., no? I considered a pair of the Concords to be honest with you all however., and I do think they would look great., I just think there is a double standard here or I am not reading this right and am happy to learn., its just it would seem Concord is about as post GAoP as a My boots are Pre-GAoP ?

John Flint Loyalist Arms & Repairs or Military Heritage or Middlesex Village Trading Company Middlesex is located in the U.S. and there fore already has the vent hole drilled for you., and comes ready to shoot.,the others you may have to drill the vent which is a simple task really.

Here is a Military Heritage Blunderbuss in a 15" Brass barrel. I am impressed., the Barrel is THICK., I took the breach out to drill the vent and grind a v into the plug..., yea its heavy duty I am happy. And this of course is new too ., but will Rev War for ya., Its a Middlesex Trading Village Ships Carbine at .75 Caliber and belongs too Swifty Morgan. ALL Middlesex's Rifles come with strap., and bayonet., except of course the Buss's Myself I think I will be going for Middlesexs Original Land Bess based on the 1728 model. I know still 2 new....., I thought about their new and upcoming Arquebus (SlowMatch) and that still may be the ticket for me.

I have about 12 of these in 6 colors., but me favorites red :) I like them long ., you cangettem wet and they will keep ya cool.,you can slobber rhum on 'em an just about anything else and with a simple dive back into the water., there bright all over again.

Well sir I purchased Military Heritages Buss in a shorty and in Brass., I am REALLY HAPPY ! Also we purchased Middlesex Trading Villages Ships Carbine (This one) It is not here yet and should be soon. I will post a few pics of these as soon as the ships carbine come in., I am really looking forward to this.,as it is alot shorter to carry (I look pretty ridiculous at 5"7" standing next to a Brown Bess taller than me) This gun http://www.loyalistarms.freeservers.com/br...t1778model.html Looks awesome to me and would be nexton my list if I can get the wife to believe I need it.

The Buss or the Musket? That would be a Yes. 2 both. Doglocks no., I have Flintlocks. I prefer them after all they were an improvement. Bridled frizzens? yes again improvement. They may not all be historically correct for this year or that to within a mili second of the right place at the right time to this event or that., however all my guns are regular shooters and therefore I like state of the art flinters . Most wouldnt know a flinter from a doglock anyway or for that matera "HorseLock" yes they had them too after the "WheelLock". If going early to cover your butt is the point .,then I should have gotten a Hand Gonne.,and perhaps then worked up to an Arquebuse. I got this from www.historyworld.net ...., please read on. The most significant development in the story of warfare is the use of gunpowder to propel a missile. There has been much debate as to where the first experiments are made. Inconclusive and sometimes mistranslated references from early documents appear to give the priority variously to the Chinese, the Hindus, the Arabs and the Turks. It is likely that the matter can never be resolved. The earliest incontrovertible evidence of artillery is a drawing of a crude form of cannon in a manuscript dated 1327 (now in the library of Christ Church, Oxford). There is a reference to a gun mounted on a ship in 1336, and the possibility of cannon of some kind in use at Crécy and Calais in 1346-7. The problem confronting early makers of artillery is how to construct a tube strong enough to contain an explosion which will propel a missile out of one end (or, in other words, how to make a gun rather than a bomb). An early solution gives us our word 'barrel'. The tube is built up of metal strips welded to each other along their straight edges - just as a barrel is constructed of similar strips of wood. This rather fragile structure is given greater strength by being encased in a series of tightly fitting metal rings. With luck, a round stone (or later a ball of cast iron) will hurtle from the open end of this tube when gunpowder is ignited behind it. The laborious loading and firing of such weapons limits their effective use to sieges - either inside a castle defending an entrance, or outside lobbing heavy objects at the walls. The size of the missile rather than its speed is the crucial factor. A breakthrough in this respect, in the late 14th century, is the discovery of how to cast gun barrels from molten iron. Cannon, during the next two centuries, become progressively larger. There are some impressive surviving examples. Mons Meg, dating from the 15th century and now in Edinburgh castle, could hurl an iron ball, 18 inches in diameter, as far as a mile. The even larger Tsar Cannon in Moscow, cast in 1586 with a bore of 3 feet, weighs nearly 40 tons. Mobility is not one of its features. One of the most remarkable of early cannon is a proud possession of Mehmed, the Turkish conqueror of Constantinople. Before his final attack in 1453 he terrifies the inhabitants by trundling close to their city a massive 19-ton bombard of cast iron. It requires 16 oxen and 200 men to manoeuvre it into its firing position. Once there, it settles down to a slow but devastating bombardment. A stone weighing as much as 600 pounds can be lobbed against the great city walls. The rate of fire is seven stones a day. In this same same year, at Castillon in France, another potential of gun power is demonstrated - in the effect of light artillery on the battlefield. Hand guns: 14th - 17th century AD Portable guns are developed shortly after the first cannons. When first mentioned, in the 1360s, such a gun is like a small version of a cannon. A metal tube, up to a foot long, is attached to the end of a pole about six feet in length - an early and very basic version of the barrel and stock of a rifle. The gunner has to apply a glowing coal or a red-hot wire to a touchhole in the loaded barrel, and then somehow get far enough away from the explosion. There is clearly not much opportunity for rapid aiming. Most such weapons are probably fired by two men, or are carried to a new position and fixed there before being loaded and ignited by one. Refinements follow surprisingly fast. During the 15th century the barrel of such weapons is lengthened, giving more reliable aim. The wooden stock acquires a curve, so that the recoil raises the barrel rather than driving backwards with full force. A length of rope known as a 'match' replaces the hot coal or wire for igniting the charge in the touchhole; it is soaked in a substance which causes it to burn with a steady glow. And a device called a 'lock' is developed - a curving arm of metal which holds the glowing match and will plunge it into the touchhole, when a pull on a trigger releases a spring. The 'matchlock' becomes the standard form of musket until the arrival of the flintlock in the 17th century. The flintlock: 16th - 18th century AD From the middle of the 16th century there are attempts to ignite the powder in the pan of a musket by means of a spark rather than from an already burning match. The flintlock is poised to replace the matchlock. In a flintlock the spark is created by striking a sharp flint obliquely against a surface of slightly roughened steel (the device is already in domestic use in the tinderbox). Just as the trigger in a matchlock brings down the smouldering match, so it now uses the same action to strike the flint down sharply above the pan with its charge of gunpowder. European countries develop their own differing versions of the flintlock. The one which eventually becomes standard is designed in France in about 1610 - possibly by Marin Le Bourgeoys, whose name is on a flintlock in the private collection of Louis XIII. The French flintlock has the advantage of a halfcock position (with the gun ready to fire but safe), and its method of directing the spark into the pan proves reliable. By the 18th century it is the standard musket throughout most of Europe and in the American colonies. Spanish armies are the only ones to retain their own variety of flintlock, known as the miquelet. Cartridges: 17th - 19th century AD The efficiency of the flintlock mechanism is accompanied by a similar improvement in the loading of a musket. In the early years of hand-guns the soldier carries a powder flask, from which he tips a small charge of gunpowder into the pan of the gun and then a larger quantity down the barrel - following it with a round metal ball and sufficient wadding to hold it in place, before ramming the whole charge tight with his ramrod. During the 17th century time is saved by providing the soldier with the correct charge, together with the ball, wrapped in a paper tube - the whole package being called a cartridge. On the battlefield the soldier bites off the end of the paper tube, tips a small amount of powder into the pan of his flintlock and then pours the rest down the barrel, following it with the remains of the cartridge (the ball and the paper) which he rams tightly home. This remains the standard procedure on the battlefield as long as muzzle-loading muskets are in use. Only in the 19th-century does it finally become obsolete, supplanted by breech-loading guns and metal cartridges with internal percussion caps.

Tell that to Bartholomew Roberts ( Black Bart) a man who took more ships than Blackbeard did in Blackbeards dreams. Not only was he a Tea-totaller he also had church services aboard as well and was extreme into discapline. He was actually killed by cannonball and was dumped into the sea before the Brits boarded the vessle.

Yes this is a liability issue and I have signed papers for 4 differant makers in 3 years time. You cant blame them., I wouldnt., No I have never heard anything but good about Hern., and I am very happy with my twins they built for me.

Full Scale is alot more expensive ., and ALOT harder to move.,just plain impractical. The sub scale cannons are really great., after all most tall ships nowadays arent using 6800 pound constitution cannons on board ., they are using something like the HERN IRON WORKS English swivel in a naval carriage or 1/2 scale 1841 6 pounders. or perhaps full scale HERN IRON WORKS carronades. Here look at these numbers on HERNS 1841 6 pounder : Scale -- Full ; Bore -- 3 1/2 ; Length -- 65 1/2 ; Weight -- 850 ; Trunnion Diameter -- 3 5/8 Scale -- 2/3 ; Bore -- 2 1/4 ; Length -- 43 1/2 ; Weight -- 250 ; Trunnion Diameter -- 2 3/4 on a 43 inch barrel you lose 600 pounds !!! and can now afford a dozen ! Not too many ships require fortress garrison guns. One of you fellows planning on building your rendition of Spains 1rst rate ship of the line ..., 94 gun El Philipe ? with those spanish guns?

Here is a more recent picture of our ocean. 5:25 a.m. at our beach on the South Eastern shore of Negros Oriental .,facing east .,watching the sun rise over the tip of Cebu to start the new day. COFFEE !!! and a SCUBA Tank please !

Your Welcome sir ! There is definitely alot to drum thru ., pretty neat stuff. For any one interested in Cannon-Mania., here is the link to the forum topic at Greybeard Outdoor Concerning David Ross of Cannon Mania and the business practice of his their in. You may really want to read it before any of you buy frm him., truly Buyer beware. Cheers to all and Good Luck in your Black-Powder endeavors ....., Its truly a BLAST

I would very much recommend you do not deal with Cannon-Mania. His communication skills are lacking and many have not recieved their goods., and yes I can back this claim. There has been extensive discussion on this one at Greybeard Outdoors Cannon and Mortar forums. Better to keep yer money and save it for a cannon you will receive. Here ..., fine., go ahead take my hard earned research and collection of links and black powder friends. Grey Star Jefferson Armory Kansas Cannon Works Hern Iron Works Wild Imports Cannons Online The Canadian Cannon Company Brooks USA Cannon Mikes Steen Cannons Cannon LTD South Bend Replicas Paulson Brothers Ordinance Corporation Beaufort Naval Armorers Fire and Iron Missouri Cannon Works Neff Cannons G. Gedney Godwin Clover Machine Then of course there is the many un advertised and countless machinists who enjoy a new project or challenge. I hope you enjoy these links as much as I do., if your serious about a cannon.,one of these vendors is sure to provide you with years of enjoyment.

Please take no offense from me., again., Welcome to the board.

Gotcha.,

As far as an idiot born every minute goes...., heres one for ya., check this out. They make something "Idiot Proof" just so nothing bad happens ...., then the next thing ya know., after a few breeding sessions...,somebody comes out with an improved version of an idiot.., and the pattern repeats its self............................................................................ ................................................................................. .......Damn :)

Pegleg Pete ., Hern is up and running I was just there.,Whaammm! instant., I am on comcast cable tho.,anyway their site is functioning as normal. I have both sir.,I have 2 - 1/3 6pounders from Grey Star., they are fun during Bar B Ques., then I have 2 - 3" ordinance rifles from Hern Iron Works., these are for bigger Bar B Ques .,Then I have a few Bronze mortars and signal cannons from other makers as well as an old english swivel from a local castor many years ago in Stainless .,as well as a fellow cannoneer/machinist in idaho custom building 4 little cannons for me from stainless at approx 4" x 26" for our Scuba vessel. I do wish I had those 2/3 scale 6 pounders and I dont I have too much to get any more., I cant justify it to the family and shipping is killing me., however with what I have learned in all of this.,that choice could really be the most bang for the least buck in something pretty big that you can be proud of.., yea I wish I had a pair., and by the way ., think in pairs., pairs are always better in cannons.., A port and starboard gun if you will lets them know your havin a cannon aint just a fluke but you actually went out of your way to show'em a good time !!

Most of the links I have book-marked are companies that cover Civil War tubes., then less manufactors work their way thru history getting in the Rev war., for Queen Anne Era cannons., say light British 6 pounders about your only avenue for a full scale of that era would be South Bend replicas.,this will be much more than the 2k. What you could do is substitute it with say an 1841 6pounder.,at a 1/2 scale.,this gun can be had for 400-600 dollars and weigh out at 250 pounds less carriage. this would probably be your best bet. I think when you see this tube., you will agree that the lines.,re-enforcement rings (only 1 as opposed to 5) the muzzle and breech are pretty much a trimmed down version of the era your looking for., its not such a dramatic change as say from a queen anne to a Mountain Howitzer., those are a very straight tube., no bell shaped muzzle ect., spend a little time on this and a replica 1/2 scale 6 pounder will start looking pretty good., also a 1/2 6 pounder is quite a bit bigger than a swivel., its about as big asyou may want to handle., and it is bigger than some smaller full scale units ,. and with a 2.25" bore will ROAR like the lion on Winsors coat of arms no problem. If you want a South Bend Replicas., British 6 pounder.,and really get accurate to the golden Age., and go in bronze., get ready for 10k ., no carriage. Try Hern Iron Works or Grey Star for a 1/2 scale 6 pounder in a cast iron. If your feelin froggy you may want to jump up a bit to 6,000 for a Wild Imports Remember If you want a Full Scale Queen Ann pattern.,South Bend is about it., Personally I have alot of Custom made barrels ., due to Cost., shipping and specific purpose for our property. I cant do a garrison of full scale Queen ann from South Bend., sounds pretty cool tho dont it? If you were allotted 250,000.00 for yard ornaments., South bend would be the place to start.

A barrel can run any where from 200 bones to upwards of 15,000.00 bones., How big of a cannon do you want?., exaclty what size of a bore?., are you wanting a sub-scale firing replica.,or are you into more of a scale unit? are you o.k. with cast iron poured over a liner or solid steel machined out., or are you thinking more like an 800 to 5,000 lb pour of bronze into a mold?., Could you perhaps narrow it down a bit for us., this is a pretty broad field guessing game to figure out what you want. I guess the real answer is how much money do you have? Thats pretty much going to dictate your options.

Hmmm...., ? Been a while since I felt a post was worth posting. Well then., No Black Powder is not slower today than it once was. Modern imitation propellants are just faster., Glock and Ak stuff use whats called Smokeless powder., that is a faster ignition. Black Powder is and always has been 75-15-10 in ratio to get that magic poof and boom we all love so well. Waging War with Charcoal.,sulphur and nitrate has always been with those numbers in the mix. I think this is what got all the attention here. See once you mention the magic words "Black-Powder" People are expecting to see Steel and Bronze ! not ABS. Bangsite and water.,would work and provide a nice boom for your prop. (Search Bangsite on Ebay....,its cheap) also hairsray like a potato gun will work.,but.........., once you use Black Powder you make people nervous. Many a prop have been made to go BOOM without Black-Powder. Save that one for your cannon whenyou do get one. Cannons are available for reasonable too ya know. Cannons are like Hot Rods. See the faster you wanna go.., The more it costs. There is no replacement for displacement ....,this means * The more inches you got....,The better it feels* ie: A bigger cannon costs more A bigger bore (displacement) A louder Boom (The better it fees) All of this can still be achieved on a budget however., a 1" bore with still make a big boom with Black-Powder as a heavy steel barrel will safely fire a large load. If you need that extra Displacement (Bigger Boom) and dont want theadded weight., go with a mortar! perhaps you might want to do a little research and get into a new toy., PM me if you want .,There are some good ways to go now a days. The N-SSA has rules for cannon requirements for anything firing black powder. Also there is a sort of code amongst machinists who make these weapons of war we so much long to own and play with. Those rules would be a minimum wall thickness of at least that of the bore. There are many other rules to making cannon. THe reason the rules are in place is for example a cannon will OUT LIVE YOU ....,So when some one else come along to play with it...., not only do they not get hurt., but those around them are also safe. To be quite honest I cant imagine an ABS pipe taking a black powder fizzle without wanting to burn thru it? I dont believe anyone here is trying to humiliate you., Welcome to the board.., we are all pretty much humble here., Stick around there is alot to learn., these people on the forum have alot of knowledge that can make an enthusiats life alot easier. Again Welcome to the forum., and the prop does look cool !

The Brass QA is not usually a stocked item ., most often it will have to be ordered. the 1731 Potzdam is a very nice piece. Myself I am looking at adding the MH Light dragoon. Tho not period correct for the GAoP it has a more comfortable handle at an improved "Right angle" and a .62 caliber bore. Or the elliot light Middlesex pistols It is a shorter barrel for these sorts of firearms. Also I am considering a Japanese Matchlock pistol., Very nice indeed !!!