Tudor MercWench Smith

I went a'plundering today. 🏴‍☠️ Background....my husband works for/runs a company that makes and sells RenFaire costuming. He works primarily in their leather shop, but there is a fabric side too. This of course means i have little to no quality leather accessories for my kit because....well, the cobblers son has no shoes. But it does give me access to materials and occasional long-abandoned prototypes. I scored this satchel today. It looks more western then anything actually period, and I'm hoping to find a way to hide, if not entirely remove the zipper on the front pouch and i rather hate the color...But a Steward needs a bag of some sort to carry around notes, ledgers, maps, etc when on shore and you can't argue with the price of FREE! But the better treasure from the evening was this bounty.... Fabric side of the business was finally after years addressing the overly large fabric stash and all these rolls were either earmarked as trash or "make me an offer". None of them are perfectly ideal....all however are at least majority cotton (rare finds in a pile of poly/nylon/acrylic nightmares) and could function quite well for remaining projects. Close ups.... Lightweight, two layer, cotton (almost handkerchief weight if it wasn't doubled). Maybe some decent/passable shirts that won't be quite as comfy as linen but would give some variety to plain white. Maybe could do a pair of pants out of it. They'd be a little too light but would probably be comfy. Double faced, heavier weight, but with almost silky feel, making me suspect not 100% cotton, but it burned pretty well that it's gotta be majority so. The cream color looks a bit dingey and the mystery content gives me doubts on breathability but a pair of stripped slops would again, be a nice reprieve from plain natural linen in color. Not sure lavender stripes are overly period or piratical but sometimes a girl just wants to look pretty while leading a boarding party. Similar aesthetic to the last but tagged as 100% cotton Essex. Probably to heavy to make comfortable pants. But maybe a jacket or waistcoat. Definitely a bag for my camp mat to make it look more ye old matress-y. This is my fave find for the night though. Heavy cotton but a more homespun, almost dobby-like lose weave, in a lovely nautical blue. Should make a great sailors jacket. Definitely cotton. Definitely canvas. Not sure of treated or coated with anything. Kind of a wonky hand. Might not use it for anything other then patterning, prototypes and interlining, but it was earmarked for the trash otherwise. Save me buying butcher paper and bed sheets for the process. And all of these roles are full, or at least like 3/4 full. So more yardage then i could hope to get through and all basically for free!! Otherwise no real project updates. O did get my linen cut for my shirts after ironing out some process kinks with my prototype. Did also extend the back opening on my finished trousers, just a little bit, and have been flat felling my interior seams to reduce fraying when i only have time/space for hand sewing.... Well, a cup of tea and more sewing awaits me....

Good idea on the eyelets! It couldn't hurt to ask and would certainly take away one of the downsides. The front closing do come standard with stomacher, so that is definitely a pro. It's also linen exterior instead.of cotton. I used to be able to back lace myself but i fear those days might be behind me. So, those all seem like deciding factors. In other news, started a prototype on my first shirt. I have done about a half dozen various periods and styles of tunics which aren't all that different but every time I have to do the measurement thing i trip all over myself. Also gussets are pure evil lol Thanks again for all the encouragement. For sure needed it after a hard prototype

Oh i know! The cross lacing is one of my biggest pet peeves about them! I can get over the tabs being a little shorter, the back being a little lower and the straps further up on the shoulders, i can even forgive the use of cotton....but cross laced??? The horrors! Lol My concerns are entirely the fitting. Construction wise itself i have no concerns. So looking into getting a custom pattern is a pretty good option (i know there are arc drafting tutorials out there but that is soooo far out of my wheel house....math and spacial relations are just not it for me). If i can cut it out, maaaaybe make some minor fit tweaks, and slap it together, I'm there but that is my limit. I have eyes up the AD pattern....also slightly oop too but not too bad and i did here they go together pretty easily. My only reason for not pursuing that path was all the scuttlebutt on the historical sewing and stays groups I've lurked in is that they are incredibly short waisted, which i am not, so once again would be a level of pattern adjustment/tailoring that I'm just not equipped for. The other upside of purchasing ready made for me, is that frees up project time so i don't overwhelm myself and can just focus on what I'm confident on and it that i truly need to get done as well. And as you said, having a set would then help me as a guide when i do revisit making my own. I've spent a large amount of time both wearing and selling mass produced historical "corsets" (mostly victorian but some Elizabethen) so i feel pretty confident in getting correct measurements and checking for correct fit and exchanging it if it's not a good. I don't play when it comes to appropriate fit. Ive seen kids *actually* get injured off poorly made and fitting bodices at RenFaires and it's one of my biggest soap boxes. But the real question really is ....the back or front lacing? Any opinions? I keep waffling. And thank you for the encouragement. It, along with my slops results and the possibility that i will have a decent set of stays has put the wind back in my sails to get this all done!!

Oh good tip! Wasn't sure how far it should open so erred on the side of high cause it's easier to open them then it is to reclose them. Will have to go back in and do this once i get the other stuff done

First pair of slops functionally finished!! I could have shopped around better for buttons but liked these wooden ones from JoAnns well enough so i picked them up with a coupon. Learned a new technique for gathering into the waistband and was pretty pleased with the results. Fit is good, they are delightful comfortable (could live in them) and i think the overall look is good. After I finish the eyelets in the back waistband and cleaning up some raw interior edges it will be on to shirts next. Overall though, i found the pattern way easier then i had prepared for. As previously discussed, maybe the style i picked (trousers over breeches) made it less fussy to fit. In other news....i think i am going to pull the trigger and just purchase a set of stays. I keep looking at the pattern and dreading it so that's never a good thing. I've been eyeing up the ones on offer from Samson historical....a bit out of period but not by much, still similar shape and style, and without having to lay out for a custom order. I just have to decide what style to pick next. Onwards onto the next project i guess...

Noted! Excellent reference link too thanks! The pleats were more laziness on my part. I did gathers on one section but wanted to get it done and the cotton i was using was being a pain to gather. Hopefully the linen will be less fussy. I got it all cut and main body assembled last night so it's fly and waistband tonight so we shall see how it goes.

Soooo.... macaroni prototype is done with moderately successful results. Factoring in the slightly substandard fabric used for the test run, the fact that i was playing a bit fast and loose with my handstitching, and that i forgot to put in the button fly....they look pretty decent. I mean, not particularly flattering....but fit and style looks "right". No serious fit issues, could probably get by with no gusset, seat is loose and comfy, though front might be a touch too baggy because of it. Waistband was a bit skronky but that's mostly due to me having to recut it last minute. Will probably go back in and put the fly in to practice button holes, in between cutting and assembling the main body of my good fabric pair. cutting good fabric tonight while my linen for my shirts gets it prewash treatment. behold my mountain of shirt weight white linen!

Thank you! I've always been pretty proud of them. Both pretty but also highly functional. Both purchased directly from the blacksmiths, one of whom has since passed away so I'm glad to have at least a small piece of his work. The twist handle one is particularly sentimental though because i bought it as a matched pair for me and my now-husband. I will have to get his out too soon to give it a clean and oil. I was told at the time by the smith that it was based on an historical nautical style knife, but I've yet to find any documentation on that. . .

So before the long weekend i set these to soak in the Evaporust, the railroad spike sat for about 4 hours, the curved blade antler handle about 30 minutes. Both turned out excellent, and were oiled as soon as they were rinsed and air-dried for a bit. They then sat for the better part of a week, and had none of the re-rusting that i had before. Rather surprisingly, the edge on the railroad spike has held pretty well since it was last sharpened years ago. Still will be looking into sharpening options in the near future though for it and the curved blade. Figuring out long term storage is the next process. I'm wondering if wrapping them in some linen scraps and then an airtight box might be suitable to keep the moisture from getting to them

Lol...i learned never to mention RH patterns in forums two years ago when i was working on a German Renaissance outfit. Some of the critiques were valid but not applicable to me ("the pattern assumes you have some knowledge of XYZ"....well, i do so no big deal). In the end, the only problems i had with the final finish were that i am lacking in skills and patience for tailoring/fitted garments. Yes, a more commercial pattern might dumb that part down for me more. But ultimately, that's still a ME issue, not a problem with the pattern. Good notes on the late period breeches....though as someone who was a young woman in the aughties, super low rise would probably just feel like a return to my youth lol. I am a big advocate of the mock ups, as suggested in the patterns, just cause my parsimony over my "good" fabric far outweighs my hastiness and lack of attention to details. They are all affectionately referred to as my "macaroni prototypes". I'm pretty pleased with how this one is going but will have to take a look at the Kannicks patterns to, even though i try to not buy too many patterns any more lol

I can see that. I actually cut about a size and a half bigger then my measurements called for so that might have resolved some of that issue. If i do decide on the gusset that might resolve some of that too. We shall see. I'm still just working on assembling so i haven't done too much with fit yet.

In other news ....three days worth of progress on the proto type for my "slops" I'm actually going with the "early period trousers" cut on the RH706 Breeches and Slops pattern. More in period then the slops, and better look for me then the breeches. I'm not necessarily going full Read/Bonney woodcuts for my overall aesthetic but definitely drawing inspo from them, and they are both in more a trouser style then the later period slops or the fitted at the knee breeches, so that informed my choice slightly Both the warning in the pattern itself and the few scant reviews i found of it had me fearing they would be harder to go together and fit but so far they have gone together pretty intuitively and well, but it's still mid process on the prototype so still plenty of time for it to get scuppered. So far only deviation or alterations I'm considering is maybe a gusset but that is an easy-ish addition Currently hand stitching. I was planning on machine doing the prototype at least, but that requires me to be in a different room working and I'd rather sit on the couch and hand stitch while i watch TV with the fam. It also gives my typically sloppy hand stitch some practice. Who knows if the final versions will be hand finished or not. Prototype cut out of an old cotton duvet cover. If the go together well enough they might even be a good functional back up pair. Pics of the current state of the project (phone ate days 1 and 2 photos):

I plan to do similar with stretching, eventually. However It's going to be an 11th hour project, cause if i don't get to it, it's still functional in that as long as I'm careful about how i put back my hair it will still fit on my head and keep the sun off my face, whereas other projects are more necessities. Mine is pretty soft so I'm not sure it would keep it's shape even with shellac, and i have to say i don't mind the soft, floppy-ish aesthetic. Just don't know if it's particularly period. That would probably work much more functionally then my kids' soccer ball. This is all provided my oldest mutineer doesn't steel it from me

Well all projects have been on hiatus far longer then expected due to the miniature crew mates getting sick, then getting me sick. Getting back to it in very slow increments. I've got the pieces to the RH Slops pattern all cut out and a pile of linen, obtained in a clever trade, all pre-washes and pressed for after I've made a few prototype pairs. But for now, here's my latest thrift find.... It's supposedly "boho" but screamed "100% wool hat blank"ish for $10 plus shipping. It's a bit snug, so i will need to steam and stretch it. It's already got a grosgrain band that will probably need to get pulled out to accomplish that, but then the plan is to cock the one side et voilà.... Keep the sun off my face and look decently accurate. Pretty pleased with the find

So first and second attempts were made with the oil and steel wool... It was looking pretty nice and i thought would be successful but 24 hours later sitting in the open air and it's already covered again. Here it is during and immediately after Still had some discoloration but was delightfully smooth and i felt it was good progress. Here it is one to two days later and just about the same rust is back. Don't know if it just re-rusted that quickly (in which case, hellooo humidity) or if i didn't really get it all off and the oil just kind of glossed over it til it dried. So, long story short, the saga continues and i am now skipping ahead to @Mary Diamond's suggestion and will have to make a journey out to AutoZone for some Evaporust.

Great suggestions, all, thank you! I am starting with some 0000 steel wool and mineral oil cause that's what was readily available on my regular errands route but that Evaporust looks mighty interesting. I will post results once i take a crack at them. Also good to know that my instincts about the sheath weren't completely off base. I am thinking long term storage will be a lose wrap of scrap linen and a box of some kind. Also might have to have the husband craft me a new sheath out of better quality, perhaps even a lined, leather, just to be safe. Though he has a matching blade and sheath to the twist handle one, so if we still want to match he'd have to do two lol. Thinking ahead though, once they are cleaned, what should I be looking at for sharpening? Somehow I imagine my kitchen knife sharpener might not be suitable?

So, i have two hand forged knives that were part of my "kit" years ago. In trying to put whole knew set of gear together they have surfaced out of the storage bin the have been in for over a decade and they are in need of some love. They are both hand forged. One is a small hook shaped knife, (i believe stainless) with antler handle. This one has minimal tarnish. The other is twist handle single piece knife, forged out of an old railroad spike. This one is....worse for the neglect. Covered in what appears to be rust, but primarily only on the blade that had been in a sheath, which seems counter intuitive to me and leads me to question if maybe it's some kind of residue from the leather that was used (it's honestly almost the exact same color) So, i need advice on best methods to clean these up. I had once been advised wd40 and steel wool. Not sure that is best and i know that precludes using it with food (which isn't a deal breaker, as these are primarily utility knives), so looking for suggestions and any experienced advice on how to get these beauties to shine again and how to keep them looking nice.

That's actually a great point. I tend to only hit up the goodwill cause it's what is right around the corner from my office, but the selections are typically poor quality and overpriced. There's a Christ child society shop I've been meaning to check out not far from me, and then just an independent thrift place across the county that i always forget about. Maybe load up the tiny crew mates and go on an adventure this weekend. Otherwise, projects are trudging along. My upcycled slops would have been done if not for a "duh" on my part that required some unpicking of seams. Probably going to pull the trigger on at least enough linen for two shirts, as a mother's day present to myself, just to get cracking on the to do list, and hopefully thrift some more later. Need to pick up the pace here. 134 days to go....

Yeah, having five seemed like the safe option to ensure clean/dry shirts each day. Maybe three is a better compromise number, then two so that way there's one to wear, one to spare and one to wash and dry. Though to that point, a blend would probably dry even less well. So jealous! My thrift shops around here never have anything so good. Looks like a good heavier weight too.

😂 personally though, i classify shirts as undergarments and they seem kind of non negotiable to me....lol

You and Mistress Diamond sure are talking me out of what i thought might be a cunning plan! I know i will be happier with linen. I know it's benefits and my love for it runs deep. Knowing that it's a sure bet versus a gamble on the blend is a compelling point too. If i save the money but hate the shirt what have i actually saved. but that $12 across five shirts (my original goal number of shirts) is fairly substantive when totalled which has been the main reason I've even considered it. maybe i need to reevaluate my goals .. instead of one shirt for each day (cause smell and dirt are a level of "accuracy" i do not need to reach lol), and instead sub in a plan to focus on 2 solid high quality linen shirts and figure out the way and means to hand wash them out during the time. .... Definitely worth pondering now, excuse me while i swan drive into research on period laundry techniques lol

The hard wearing is one of the pros in the column that i can't balance. Yes I can get the blend cheaper but if I'm going to have to replace it in half the time it's not really that much cheaper in the long run. The intention really is only to use it for the shirts .....the outer layers are going to be primarily to my 100% options.

So, as I'm working on my first upcycle project (will post about it when it's done) I'm also comparison shopping for fabric for shirts. I typically buy my linens from fabric-store.com, and I've always been pleased with their products but i feel like their prices have gone up significantly in the past two years (though i guess that's everywhere and everything these days) and i need to cut budget where I can. I recently got tipped off to dharma trading. They only carry white linen but their costs are significantly lower on linen and they presented me an option i hadn't heretofore considered...linen blends. They have a cotton blend, and a rayon blend - if it was poly at all it would be immediately eliminated as a possibility on its face. But i find rayon as one of the most comfortable fabrics on my modern clothes so i was willing to consider I ordered in some samples of their 100% linen, their 55% linen/45% rayon, and then some of their hemp offerings as well. The 55% linen/45% rayon is indistinguishable from a standard handkerchief linen as far as visual texture/weave goes, and only a SLIGHTLY silkier feeling hand and SLIGHTLY drapey-er hang. So now I have the unenviable task of deciding if the hit to accuracy is worth getting a still visually appropriate, still comfortably breathable and wicking fabric that is seriously UNDER $5 a yard. I do still have hopes of either finding linen that can be upcycled at thrift stores but it's an uncommon fabric around here and/or find some second hand products on reenactment buy sell trade groups. But i also know i need to get cracking on sewing some if these as they are a key item that i need several of. So....any experience, advice, opinion, input or critiques of using this type of blend, how it sews up or wears, of the company if anyone has experience with it, or suggestions of other linen sources to consider, i will take it all.... Cheers! -Merc

Thanks for all the input but especially this! I have an advantage in that i have spent significant time wearing historic stays and corsets so i know how they are supposed to look and feel. My down fall is I'm terrible at fitted garments. I had moderate success with an RH pattern for 16th century German Renaissance but had the problem that when it came to tailoring the bodice i just couldn't seem to make it right even with a canvas version for patterning size and a muslin prototype. I have already started cutting a canvas to get sizing right for the stays but was hard to get it closed. Great idea about the ribbon, i will try that. I'll be sure to post updates once i am in the throes of it. We clearly think similarly! Shoes were the first thing I started looking for a few weeks back actually. Footwear is the one place I am willing to be most flexible because a) it’s one of the last things people see or notice b) it’s got to accommodate my old lady orthotic arch supports and c) as always, budget. most anything specifically historical repro was out of the running on any combo of b and c. So i went thrifting i went...found some low ankle boots (a bit higher then shoes but certainly not BOOTS) that would be period passable at a glance. I ended up with two pairs for what I would have spent on a single pair of generic leather renn-ish style mary janes. Both are actual leather (admittedly not fine quality leather, but leather), neither have zippers at all. The construction of the black pair, the top fits/sits very similarly to how a standard latchet shoe would, and their sole looks really nice and the brown pair were already scuffed up enough that I wouldn’t feel bad beating them up at an outdoor camping event Absolute score if I do say so myself

Thanks very much! Good to be back. It is lots of fun being back and seeing all the old "faces". It's only been a literal lifetime lol