Tudor MercWench Smith

Love that you scored such a good deal - it looks like it's coming together really well so far

Good tip! I've been having some luck on various sites, but mixed bag as to actual historical reference on them.

The pattern does have "finishing strips" to go around the neckline around the pleats, which should accomplish what you are suggesting, (I think). Once I get the sleeve pleats sewn in (which is what I started last night), I plan on putting them in, though I will probably go as off-book with the execution as I kind of have with a lot of the directions so far. I hadn't thought about one at the waist though, which I will now have to consider. I slipped it on last night over the stays after pining the sleeve pleats, and my first response was "hooly crap! It's a mantua", so I guess that's good progress. Blind stitching those pleats down now by hand, as they are "visible". Then will be the sleeve cuffs, which I will probably have to wing entirely. Then will be the finishing strip around the collar. Then will be the front. Then the Hem. Hopefully I don't lose steam on it, but it should be wearable pretty soon. Other things I am cooking up in the meantime - need to find a buckle so I can turn my belt from standard issue RenFaire ring belt to something more appropriate, need to reshape and spray my at, slops somehow need mended again, and button holes should get put into my frock coat. But sleeves first. . . . Pics of my sleeve pleats, just cause . . . pretty fabric. . .

Picture of the progress as of the other night. Goal tonight is to finish the sleeves and the facings.

Ok, I am in love with this fabric and am not unconvinced it's magic. In two nights worth of work, I have as much done as I managed on the prototype in like 2 months. It's going together beautifully, I have the body, gores and pleats done, I still need to tailor and face the front, and put in whatever means I want for pinning the skirts open/back, then it will just be the hemming/hand finishes. Holy crap, y'alll, I am going in December and I will actually have a mantua. . . .two things a month or two ago I was pretty well convinced were not going to happen. Pic dump below - I got as far as getting a pic of the finished pleats but my phone died before they uploaded, so those will have to wait for the big reveal at a later date. It's not perfect, but it's actually the thing! And dang do I love the fabic and color . .. ....Proof I do actually iron when it matters hahaha

Well, i've always heard "wash the fabric the way you mean to wash the clothing" and there is no way in hell that I will dry clean it soooo..... I did use gentle and cold settings cause I didn't want any felting - which probably isn't a concern with this type of weave but still. . . hopefully progress pics tonight.

Fabric is here. Color is perfect. The test yard actually washed up really nicely (am I a lunatic for washing a wool? possibly? did it work out fine? Also possibly), with only very minimal to no shrinkage, so I am tempted to cut and sew and then wash, so I don't have to worry about fraying. And also so I don't have to wait to cut and sew any longer then my work day lol. Also, this fabric is so swoon worthy. Feels and looks more like a linen in regards to texture and drape, but definitely has the substance of a wool - like a heavy weight linen without the stiffness.

Well, the linen/wool blend I was looking at for my mantua just went on 70% sale again. Granted, it's a blend, but I can let you know what the quality is like, and then we can watch out for sales on coat weight - fabricmart . com is pretty regular with absurd sales in their linens and wools, and I've heard very good things about their quality in general. Otherwise, Kalamazoo Dry Goods is another place I window shop for wools at. It's all closeout rolls they buy from factories and manufacturers, so availability is hit or miss, but they are all "name brand" wools typically, and you can get heavyweights closer to that $20 range. So, ultimately, I bought out the last of the supply of the linsey-woolsey (or as they prefer to call it, "Linen/Wool Slubbed Suiting", which is not nearly as fun to say as linsey-woolsey) so I will have more then enough for my mantua, and for an undetermined future project.

Luckily, my frock coat was made 20ish years ago, when high quality coat weight wool could be bought in store (at fabric outlets ) for like .... $9.99 a yard *crying*. It is on my list for an eventual re-do with a more correct pattern, but damn do I not want to spend the kind of money I would have to now. As for ironing - I am meticulous about it when I'm cutting the "good" fabric for final item, but I get so antsy about not spending too much time on my toiles that ulitmately I probably end up spending more cause of the wrinkles lol

Awww man, are you guys really going to make me get out my iron??? Allllriiiiiiight .. . . but I'm only going to do the bare minimium . .. Here's the results of a very lazy quick iron, and then some equally quick stitches - please ignore the flappy sleeve that was still open at the time of taking photos. Still with some issues and flaws, (and yes, I know, still wrinkly - so much for poly cotton being "easy" care and wrinkle proof), but the results make me confident (hubristic?) enough that I feel like I can make a move on an actual wearable version. I think I want to do the wearable version in a navy, as it's the color that will be most versatile with the existing pieces I have. I am kicking myself cause the most gorgeous "deep space blue" linen/wool blend was on sale on fabricmart . com for like $12 a yard, but I apparently went temporarily insane and didn't instantly buy it, and now it's back to $45 a yard. I have a giant roll of a kind of "homespun" cotton, pretty sure it was a home dec roll, same as what I had used to make my jacket that got turned into a waistcoat. I cut off some yardage last night and prewashing it today, and might cut it tonight. I worry that it's going to be too heavy a fabric. It's great weight for jackets, waistcoats, and would probably also make a fine riding habit. I just worry about how stiff the pleats will look, and if the sides will drape correctly when bustled up. If that ends up being the case, and I don't score another find for fabric, and/or i just run out of time, I did some trial runs on outfits pairing my waistcoat with the stays and skirts, and with a bit of tailoring and/or putting some lacing up the back of the waistcoat, which probably needs to happen anyway to make it less bulky and bag like, it kinda works - rather like an underdressed riding habit, and if I put my wool frock coat on over top, it actually pulls together pretty ok - which will either free me up to wait for a fabric deal for the manuta, or to use lighter fabric I already have on hand in a different color that will only go with SOME of the pieces I already have. Sooo... finally some progress now that we are closing in on being a month out from the event . . .

Ok gang, back to my bedsheet nightmare.... But I think I got a handle on the pleating on the back . . . understanding that this is a poorly cut poly-cotton that has been hastily stitched and even more hastily pinned, the back still somehow looks something like I'd imagine it's supposed to This might just be late night hubris and desperation to have this done, so I have done at least one upgrade to my kit for FKG in December, but I *think* if I go very carefully about it, I could make the cut on some good fabric. Allowing for all the jankiness of the poor execution, someone tell me if I am just seeing things or if this seems like the right concept?

XII - That whoever shall be found seducing any boy or woman not of the said Company aboard ship, and carry he or she disguised aboard ship; or shall anyone at any time meet with a prudent Woman, that man that offers to meddle with her without her Consent, shall suffer what Punishment the Captain of that Ship or the Majority of the Company of said Ship shall think fit. While she had heard Durand’s comments about French providence and English foolishness—she had even mustered up a witty rejoinder—she could not have repeated any part of the conversation once the echoes of the words faded into the air. The words of Article Eleven were the only ones that remained with her. She had only ever read the full Articles once, what felt like years ago, when she first signed them, with only occasional glimpses when they were brought out for the benefit of new crew members. Still, the written word had a way of etching itself into her memory—a surprising gift, considering her start in life, where most in her position were left illiterate. With each passing minute, as they sailed closer to the moment Saltash would have to answer for his actions, Tudor found herself caught between the clarity and ambiguity of the article in question. It left her knowing precisely what would happen yet simultaneously knowing nothing. His punishment was inevitable, but when it would come, and what its result would be, remained an open question. She could barely begin to fathom what punishment the crew—or, more importantly, the Captain—might deem fit for him. The fact that she even considered it, that she understood the weight of the moment, was enough to give her pause. In no other part of her life had anyone thought to punish a man who acted as Saltash had. His behavior would have been written off as an unfortunate but expected hazard of her trade, brushed aside as the natural result of being a woman in a man’s world. Worse, it would have been cast as her own failing—a weakness to protect herself from him. But now, not only would he have to answer, it was likely he would pay for it with his life. The thought shocked her—and disturbed her on a deep, instinctual level. Tudor was no stranger to death. From the moment she first drew breath, it seemed as though she had been a harbinger of it. She had killed for money, for survival, even for vengeance. But never for her own. She was grateful that the decision of what to do with Saltash would not rest with her, at least not on her own behalf. For young Dash, however, she would gladly lead a party of the crew in deciding the man’s fate. It weighed on her that she was not the only one injured by that animal the previous day, nor was it only one article he had violated. VII. Any of the crew that shall be found Guilty of striking one another on board or shall be found Guilty of taking up any unlawful Weapon on Board the Privateers, or any Prize, by us taken, so as to strike or abuse on Another, in any regard, shall suffer what Punishment the Captain of the Ship or Majority of the Company of said ship shall think fit. Any quarrel that shall not be resolved between parties aboard, shall be ended ashore at sword and pistol by direction of the Quartermaster of the Whole company. Oh, how she longed to take up sword and pistol on Dash’s behalf, as he had taken up arms on hers... For now, however, this—along with her growing list of desired actions, from checking on her young hero to simply clearing the dishes from the ward room—would have to wait for the Captain's return from the deck.

Ok, finally back at the mantua project after several weeks. I'm not crazy about how I have the side gores kinds of pleated into the seams, but I think that is as much a cut/fabric/hasty stitching issue rather then any kind of functional misunderstanding. Working on the facings etc tonight, and hopefully the pleating, but looking down the pike, can anyone explain why the shape to the cut of the sleeves? Is there a functional reason for this or can I just plan on doing sleeves the way I know how to come the next trial?

Another mug for my collection.... Not entirely dismissal to this redware one from Samson. But $2 as opposed to $28. Might keep this one for myself and let the others be my loaners lol....

I have not tried that as this has been my first foray into dying anything, but I will have to keep that in mind. Now that I know this works I have to decide if it's worth trying to scale it up to be able to dye six yards

so here is the dried results.... I'm pretty pleased all things considered, especially since I was rather half assing the trial. Moreso even then how well the dye took, I'm also pleased with the color and think it would go well with the color skirts I have (a consideration of vast import cause I don't want to have to have two separate Mantuas to coordinate) It's a blueish grey....think maybe a slate color? Or maybe a It probably would have been more blue then grey if I had started with a bleached/white fabric. Using black beans can get your from a light blue grey to a truer blue to a dark version of those based on fabrics, mordants and dye times and pH levels. You can also even get it to be a purple tone if you change the ph on it with an acidic. Apparently

Ok so he past few nights I've been throwing some half awake effort at prepping a natural dye batch for a sample swatch. The steps, as unthorough as they have been were as follows: 1) buy pound of black beans.. dump in container and cover with water. Refill as it gets absorbed. Let sit for 24 hours 2) buy small bottle of alum powder (which is in the spice section but I have no idea what food use it has). Boil water, pour boiling water over alumn powder and stir till dissolved. (I used .5 litre of water to about 3/4 tsp alumn, all non precise measures) While dissolving, strain beans out of water 3) soak fabric swatch on alumn water for about 20 minutes. Probably should have done longer but this seemed to be the minimum requirement. 4)rinsed mordant from fabric, threw it in the dryer so I didn't have to wait to dye it. 5)dipped it in the bean water, making sure fo swish and make sure everything got covered. Let it sit for 24 hours. 6) pulled out dyed fabric and rinsed a few times. Rinse didn't cause any run off and color looks pretty good. Now sitting in the sun to dry.

This is actually fantastic and makes some of my lingering concerns about how I was going to make it all line up dissolve. I think on this purely macaroni prototype I might try one side with the gore, since I already have them cut, and one side without and then on the next trial run do it solidly without. Less seams are never a bad thing lol. I have foubd likewise. The six yards listed on the back of the pattern must be for largest possible size, in longest train configuration. I was panicking cause my cheap fabric ended up being like a half yard short of six. Well even with that shortage I could have probably still been another half yard to more shorter as my body sections got cut too long, my gores got cut to long, I could have probably cut the pattern to the next size down and I left myself some pretty huge seam allowance. All in all I feel confident I could do it in five. Mayyyybe 4.5, but I always err on the side of caution

If this isn't the annoying truth on two levels.... First, the amount of petty when it comes to these patterns is harsh! Secondly....it's like crickets when you bring up just about any garment from this era! I mean, this is literally the only pattern in existence! For as popular as pirates are in the pop culture psyche you'd think there would be at least more attempts at the period. Oh well...thank God I've got you guys...capable of talking about the pitfalls and shortcomings about a pattern without getting petty and also woefully competent and informed about the period. In a slight shifting of gears, I'm planning ahead for fabric options for my final "draft" of this in one of the background browser tabs of my brain today at work. Ive been eyeing up a kind of grey blue tropical weight wool from B&T that I love, that is comparably priced to the linen from f-s, so, technically within budget. But, in my current state of cost cutting mode, I had the thought that I have about 5 yards of an unbleached linenn at home that I had used a chunk off of take slops. Now, I dont want my dress in that color, but am now falling down the bunny hole of natural dyes.... Black beans, some alum, a bucket of water and 48 hours might just get me something useable. Might start some samples this weekend. But in general what is the experience in terms of linen v. Wool for this garment. I know either could work, but does anyone's have a preference and if so why. Also.... any knowledge on dyeing if it's available, please share please and thank you! ( I know I'm so needy!!)

EUREKA! (maybe!) After going through all the delightful notes and diagrams provided, it seems my problem was twofold - first, following the printed directions, and attaching the gore to the turning gore, it wasn't correct, and was pointing the angles of the gore in the wrong direction (Bagley's tip about sew from point C down rather then up, and that all three point C's need to basically go together was key to figuring this out. Suddenly, my gore actually was functioning like a gore. Second problem I still need to resolve is that due to the less then detailed cutting direction, my gore is too long, so will need to get it cut down to eventually make corners A and B fit in correctly with points A and B on the turning gore. But I feel confident to make those cuts now. But I'm a bit bleary eyed tonight so, plotting is all I'm up for. I will do the cuts and some quick stitches tomorrow to see if this is actually the breakthrough. If it is, I am contemplating a second mock up, just so that I have practice with cleaner cuts, and the off-the-book instructions of sewing order before I actually buy and start to destroy some good fabric. If I do that, I hope to actually go carefully enough, and take good enough pictures that maybe I can post a seperate thread on here with a detailed "How-to" step by step, since all the discussion here was mostly me whining til you kind lovely pirates put me out of my misery. Thank you again all!

That Durand, not a stranger but certainly not someone reliant upon or well-acquainted with her, should so agree further convinced her of the factual nature of her statement, even if she did not yet feel it in her bones. Still, his simple statement gave her some modicum of comfort in a moment where comfort seemed foreign. All she could do was dip her head slightly, a subtle nod of thanks. Pulling the ill-fitted garment of that comfort around her, she downed the rest of the coffee that had been poured upon breakfast's arrival and set about her work again—the true comfort. She cleared her own plate and fork to a small side table where an empty tray waited. She cleaned the space she had sat in of any crumbs and then returned to the still half-full tray that had been delivered. After offering to serve the Frenchman and Ajay additional victuals or a warm drink, she set about building a plate for the Captain, whose return should be soon enough if she knew anything about his typical paths through the ship and his tasks. "And you, Monsieur? How came you to be aboard the Patricia? Ill-fate, accident, cruelty... or defiance?" She knew defiance well enough to see the earmarks of it about him.

"What 'animal'?" Others might ask, but would hide the intrusive nature of the question behind pleasantries and feigned concern. Durand, on the other hand, cut to the heart with sharp precision. That he asked at all was shocking, to say the least. She was glad for the large bite she had just taken of the last of the pears Mr. Gage had doled out to her, and she took her time chewing to disguise her shock that he should ask at all. What does one say in response to such a question? She appreciated his forthrightness but had no practice in how to answer. Could she even respond without choking on her words, as if it were an unripe chunk of fruit? Say his name? Shrug it off? Attempt to make light of it? Tell a riveting tall tale of heroics and prowess? Finally, knowing she could stall no longer without appearing timid or rude—of which she was neither—she met his forthright question with a leveled gaze. "It does not matter who, which animal it was. It could have been anyone and no one. He thought I was nothing but a small thing for sport, but in reality, he was the one that is insignificant." The words startled her as she said them, as it was not a thought or feeling she had been aware of. But as she looked around at where she sat, sheltered and guarded and nursed in no less auspicious a space than the Captain's quarters, while Saltash was under guard in the cable tier, with a growing list of people thinking of a dozen creative ways to do him harm. Strange, that the act of a man who thought she was worthless somehow was showing her that she had some value after all.

I've been trawling the local Salv-o for things I could throw into loaner garb and anything I could use for scrap fabric, when I chanced upon these beautiful slops! Real linen, great shape to them, just would need to change the waistband if I wanted them to be less obvious. They are a wee bit snug, so either they will be my reserve for when I drop another size, or I suppose I could share lol Additionally, I am not sure if online consignment counts as thrift but I bought this for a shtick I want to do at the next event. It my little keg....

@michaelsbagley this is amazing, thank you! I speak the language of T-Tunic pretty well which I think is why what I was doing/misinterpreting in the instructions felt so horribly wrong and off to me Between this, and a similar drawing and advice about the flappy superfluous bit the Mistress Diamond messaged me, I'm excited to rip it apart (yet again) and start over

Durand accepted the offerings with requisite manners, but nothing more—not even an annoyed sigh to inform her how badly she was misinformed about the value of her own witticism. This was fine by Tudor. Small talk and pleasantries were all well and good, but the fact that he did not feel compelled to engage in what he did not enjoy or feel naturally inclined to meant he did not pity her. He, just as she, was content to let the other sit in their own indignities in peace. She continued to keep busy with what tasks she could find, enjoying the ... well, it could not quite be considered companionable, but at least comfortable silence. This went on uninterrupted until a knock jarred the silence. It was sure to be either the Captain, the food, or both.