Tudor MercWench Smith

I will try to get some pictures tonight before I start my final moves on washing/packing!

We are now at panick sewing phase.... The Smee pants are done but not hemmed, or flat felled on the interior. Chances are neither if these things will happen but they are functional and look decent. Slight fraying adds a quaint charm methinks. Got a second white shirt cut and the basting for gathering put in. Started trying to put sleeves together but forgot a gusset which I took as a sign to pack it in for the night. I'm pretty confident I can have the bulk of construction done before the event and u can work on the hand finishes on site. A second skirt will hopefully be cut this week too. Have to prewash the fabric first though. I had hoped for a sleeveless waistcoat still too but as I haven't done one of those yet and I definitely don't have time to prototype, I'm sticking with the two garments I feel I can actually get done in the same time. The coarse linen I picked up to make a poor girl's Turkish towel is too thick to get through my machine so I'm pinking the raw edges and calling it good. This does also tell me though that my hopes of doing up a canvas haversack is also off the agenda just due to equipment failure. Maybe I will cut one or two to do by hand on site though. Otherwise....I feel pretty ok about what I've made/collected/acquired. Few other last minute purchases and I shall be ready to get on a plane roughly this time next week.

However they are useful! One serving bowl size, but the other smaller ones would probably suffice nicely for small eatables. I just gave them a hard clean today, the previous owners seemed to have gone to heavy on oiling them, and then letting grime collect on the sticky. They are drying up now, and I seemed to have gotten them into usable order, so will be there and can be used as needed. And honestly, I don't care if they come home to me....considered throwing them in for the auction if we didn't need them in camp but not sure they would get any money bid for them, with the condition they had been kept in

Second skirt crisis is solved....found someone who had extra yardage of the same colour purple linen they were willing to sell and mail me. So once that gets here second skirt will go together quickly. To fill the gap in time, I got an unrelated project cut tonight, ready to be serged this weekend, and then decided to just q&d another pair of slops. Had a "linen weave" cotton home Dec fabric roll in a nice gray. Too heavy for skirt, but felt decent for pants. Definitely akin to a canvas weight. Decided to go for the short open leg cut this time (husband calls them "Mr Smee pants"). Much like my second shirt and most of the red skirt I just ran the bulk of the seams through the machine. Which meant I went from washed uncut fabric to main build done in an evening. Tomorrow I will focus on waistband and hem, hopefully done by the weekend so I can finish unrelated project.... I feel like I might end up liking these better then my first pair, at least as far as aesthetic goes.

1. Make something go "boom" 2. ??? 3. Profit

Ok so... Red skirt is done. I want to do a second skirt. I have two 2-yard+ chunks of purple linen that are close-ish in shade but different enough that it's highly noticeable. They are both wide with. I could cut one into a skirt with enough width but not enough length or vice versa. Or I could try to piece them (or another alternate color) together....but how without the color change looking bad or noticable. Any ideas? Kick panels at the bottom, extra width waist band? Parti colored skirt body?

I have found that "diaper" dishes are often some of the tastiest so I am game if its on the menu!

So I've been keeping an eye specifically on overnight temps... My only other event experiences are high temp and humidity during the day but low to cold temps at night. From what I am seeing, we shouldn't have such drastic swings there, but is there anyone with closer to first hand experience. Trying to determine what all bedding I need to bring to be appropriately prepared

So, coffee seems to be well in hand (for which I am eternally grateful!) But will there be tea drinkers in our midst too? If so, I have accoutrements (modern but useable) and a stash of imported Earl Gray loose leaf I'm willing to throw in for the cause.

Egregious photo dump of red petticoat in process. Main construction was by machine. Visible finishes will be by hand. Did a fast and dirty cartridge pleating/gathering into the waistband. Due to the shrinkage shortage, one side is fuller then the other but I think it works. I feel like my shirts have been better executed and my jacket required more technical skill, but I think this is the item I've made so far that I like the best...

Will do! I have a second 3 yard segment cut and washed already that would be easy to throw in a bin for you to demo!! Out of curiosity I did a second burn test, cause as I was hemming it I noticed a little more stretch then I would expect, but it actually burned better then I remembered it...still think there is something suspect in there but hardly if at all. And the color and hand are delightful.

I officially now know more about turn back "French" cuffs then anyone off saville row probably needs to. Long an short, yes turn back cuffs have precedent back to middle ages. Not particularly correct for GAoP but wouldn't be confusing or unheard of....plus I just really liked how it looked. Over all of very pleased with the results of this shirt project. Completing this brings me up to a pair of slops, a set of stays, two shirts, a jacket, two pairs of boots, four pairs of socks and a hat for clothing kit. Other kit includes two prop pistols, two work knives, a leather satchel, a portable writing desk, a pewter mug. Next project is a petticoat (my wardrobe is going to be a mix of mens and women's gear). Red linen, washed and ready to go, but seemed to have considerable shrinkage so I'm working with 3+ yards instead of 4. To maximize usage/minimize waste, thinking of cutting thee panels, cut edges for top and bottom, selvedge edges for interior seams so i can also save time and not have to french seam or flat fell inside. I am feeling moderately ok about progress but I'm thinking I will rely more on skirts then slops as I had planned, as I can probably crank several of them out in the time it would take me to do a second pair of slops. I also have no idea how it looks all put together yet, really. My mirror lies and my photographer to get a full outfit shot is unavailable so let's just hope it all works together. So....onto the next ....

Further thought on this...no idea if it would add or decrease the accuracy but these cuffs seem to naturally want to fold back into a French cuff style....warrants some pondering before I put the buttons on

I actually just picked something similar up myself! Labeled "coarse linen" and for $6 yard. Thought it might end up being too rough but the washed sample they had was not too bad, and for the cost of a coffee, it was worth the attempt IMHO....glad someone has some experience and the same thoughts!!

I have an entire giant roll of the fabric if you want any! No idea the official contents but I'd say full cotton, maybe a cotton heavy cotton-linen blend. Definitely natural fibers based off burn test. Obvi, full linen would be better, but this was a lovely steal at the low price of "free" lol. The cuffs are just shy of 2 inches, so a bit past that outside margin. I think they were supposed to be closer to that inch and a half but I tend to cut wider for extra seam allowance but then never use it. I will definitely adjust that if I make it to a third shift! Looks great! Your French seam in particular is so clean I could swoon. I'm only on my second attempt ever on French seams so they are still not quite as trim and smooth. But one more technique I plan on perfecting as I go lol. If nothing else this whole absurdly ambitious project has definitely taught me a few things.

Looks good! The heaviest I've ever used for any kind of trousers is a 7oz but I always felt slops in particular could go heavier....keep us posted on how the go! Once I'm done with this second shirt I'm hoping for a second pair of slops, in addition to the petticoat. Speaking of the shirt though, my gathering game is leveling up a bit, but I'm making a few rookie mistakes like forgetting to leave slits at the cuffs. Easy enough to pivot though... A lot more of this one is being done on the machine, now that I understand the construction in general better.

I imagine more then I spent on the cup itself but might be worth looking into. Don't know how well it would adhere to the metal but could work. At any rate, had it out at my event with me this past weekend and used it exclusively for water. Noticed a slight metallic taste the first few sips but either it went away or I just didn't notice it. In sewing news, I finished all but four button holes on the jacket, two on each sleeve, but they both have one finished one so they do close. But I needed a break and if I don't finish it til we're in camp at night, it's at least functional for the days. Second shirt is well underway but I feel like it's taking longer. It's not, I'm just less motivated to do it. Just need to get my butt in gear. I also picked up some more linen at my event for a skirt. 4 yards, dark red, I'd say somewhere between a mid and light weight. Got it soaking pre wash now. Surprised at how much it's NOT bleeding out. Guess that speaks to the good quality. Also picked up a short precut of the same fabric in purple to use with a 1 yard remnant I had left over. There is a slight difference in shade that I'm hoping will even out with the prewash on the new cut....

Thank you for agreeing with the collar cause I was honestly considering taking it as a back up, but space is at a premium so I need to *not* bring pieces that aren't right. And thanks....it was a project two years ago to make a full landsknecht outfit to wear to Oktoberfest (cause I'm extra like that). It was my first attempt ever at smocking.

Ok but of I had a period Georgian piece I'd be tempted to drink from it even knowing there could be lead in it. My piece is older, pre official lead ban, but only 1950s probably, but it's officially stamped as leadless English pewter, and from what I understand the English pewterers guild don't play lol. In non mug related updates, all button holes on jacket front are done. Just need to put on buttons and holes at the cuffs. Easy to get done this weekend as I'm going (kid free nonetheless) to an event and expecting a decent amount of 'sewing around the fire " time. The event is a medieval one, and as I was prepping for it I couldn't help but look at my 16th century German Hemd and think "maybe underneath the stays and jacket you'd pass for an 17-18th cent shirt???" But the highly noticeable smocked collar just laughed at me lol

Yep! I have easy access to two varieties.....one that is just leather with brewers pitch, so lovely and accurate but no good for heat, and then another kind where it's a simple leather mug with a removable plastic cup liner.....they are what give me cringe flashbacks despite their heat resistance lol. Possibly a bit of snobbishness on my part but....*shrug* I've tried to talk the man into doing up one of the nice ones with the invirotex they used to use for drinking horns but he shot me down lol.

I was clever enough to be sure to get leadless pewter (stamped that way specifically but will also still be testing to be double sure) so at least I didn't completely flake lol. I have read though that even the lead free ones can still give a metallic taste. But I love my hand thrown pottery mugs too much to risk traveling with them and plastic lined leather just reads too RenFaire to me and gives me brutal flashbacks lol.

Live and learn I guess lol....and considering the average temps we're looking at I guess "cold beverage only" isn't a bad rule....

So, Apparently the melting point of pewter starts at 170° and the average cup of coffee is 160.....things I should have read up on *before* buying the mug lol.... Looks like it only iced coffee for me for the event lol!! (Or I kife a plastic lined leather mug from my husband. Or I risk one of my pottery mugs....i have plenty of options I'm just cranky and on a deadline and want to whinge lol)

Ok ok, I'll stop whinging about my >20 that I've done on this jacket lol. But seriously, that looks fantastic and well worth the aggravation of doing it. Any tips for keeping them tidy and even? Short of me figuring out the button hole setting on my sewing machine lol.....do you cut then stitch or do you do stitch then cut. Per what I've read I've been stitching then slicing open and it has helped keep them a lot more even and flat and less gappy but I feel like cutting then buttonholing around the existing slit feels.... sturdier? Definitely less bits of fraying fluttering around. In other news my pewter mug arrived. Needs a good clean, and determined it was in fact a "glass" bottom which isn't thrilling, but otherwise, it's a good sturdy real leadless pewter piece. Well worth the $20. Might talk husband into making a leather wrap for it for me. Not sure of it's period correctness but will help it not get too dinged up and help with any heat transfer from my my morning hot beverages to hand....

Buttonholing is the woooooooooooorst.... Upside of so many buttonholes.....lost of practice has them finally looking decent ish from all the practice. Downside of so many buttonholes..... You think you are making progress only to realize you are only half way through just the front....