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madPete

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Everything posted by madPete

  1. a note about the poles... I ripped 2X4s right down the middle and installed a 3/8 or 7/16 bolt screwed into the top, then cut the head. I use a cross bar on top that fits over the bolts (for the tent). I did find that the poles can spit easily if you aren't careful taking it down though. I wrapped the first couple inches of the top of the poles with sisal twine (tightly). Then goop it up with elmers glue. Haven't had a problem with poles splitting since! madPete
  2. 10X18 with ropes/stakes accounted for Thanks, madPete (Mercury crew)
  3. Nice job to both Bright and L. Silver! I wouldn't have guessed they will last 10 years but it makes sense. It just shows there are alternatives to spending money. I tend to build a lot of kit on my own, from ideas I get in places like this. Not just to save money, but to understand the time frame and how they did things. My projects aren't perfect, but that's not the point. The satisfaction comes with the doing.... Hopefully, our examples will inspire the others that are holding back! madPete
  4. Just thought I would add my experience... A couple years ago I built a tent for my civil war reenacting using the Home Depot (Lowes) canvas paint tarps, and just recently made a small fly as well. It is not completely period correct, but I did incorporate some handi-work that others might decide is useful. Make sure you get the heaviest and densest weave you can find, wash it. Some seams will fray which you will need to redo. I left the existing sewn seams where I could to minimize work (I planned to redo later, yeah right... I have time for that). Instead of grommets, I used some waxed sinew from Tandy. Make sure you reinforce the areas with 2-3 layers of canvas. Cut holes slightly larger than the rope you are using and use a button hole stitch with the sinew. I did this for the stake tie-downs - two holes, knot the rope on the inside: I did this for the ties on the entrance (reinforced in back) with rope knotted on each side: Getting a little better on the new fly (all new work was handstitched): Finished product has lasted two years ( I expect the fly to last as well): madPete (Omar the tentmaker - I am not...)
  5. Turned out Good! I couldn't find any boots that fit, much less look that good after modification. madPete
  6. Thank ye Mates - I've heard tell the coral at PIP be tough on the feet. These be just an addition to me kit (along with the Fugawees). Just thought I'd share my project. Except for the labor weaving the soles, the price be right even if they turn out to be throw-away. Hmmm... After some thought, a piece of leather tied to the outside ropes might add nicely to the lifespan... madPete
  7. Aside from the thick rope between the toes, they feel decent. We'll see after the second one is complete if the friction is bothersome. But I think it is entirely dependent on the rope you use. I used manila rope, and the twine on the soles feels good. I have been thinking about coating the bottom somehow, something that looks like tar.... madPete
  8. With a minor dilemma over what footwear to wear at PIP (this year being my first), I decided I might need something in addition to the Fugawees. After all, it is the beach right?!? So after a half hour googling for rope sandals and not really happy with the fact that the Gurkee model is Polypropylene rope, (plus the fact that my WIDE feet are impossible to fit) I ran across a site with some japanese patterns.... The one I found that looked generic enough for anywhere was the Waraji. See Link here: http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/img/waraji.jpg A few more patterns and info here: http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/yoriaku/waraji.html It looked very doable so I made the jig. Making the jig for weaving the sandals is pretty easy once you interpolate the distance apart of the pegs by taking the overall sizes 10" and 16" and scale the rest to that. Here is the jig, approx 22" X 10" 3/4 inch plywood, with 1/2 inch oak dowels glued in 1/2" holes (never mind the bolt - I drilled the first hole 5/8" by accident): Here are a couple pics constructing the 1st one: Here is the finished product: Things I would do different: -Use thinner rope, this was supposed to be 1/4" rope but was more like 3/8", which is tough between the toes! -I added extra rope in the middle of the sole and knotted it in back. Now back to finish the 2nd one. Then I'll decide if I want to get some thinner rope and try again. Let me know how it goes if anyone else gives it a try... madPete "We can build him better"
  9. Very professional vendor. Just have to verify time periods of some of the clothing for specific use. I've placed 6-7 orders over the last couple years and always been pleased with service. madPete
  10. Me compliments to you sir, Nice Work! I applaud all those who roll their own! We are hardest on ourselves cause we know what mishaps occur along the way. madPete
  11. Nelson's books are great reads. I bought Pirate Round at a library book sale, It is also excellent. I've been trying to find the hardcover versions of the 1st two books of the series before I read the rest. Another great series is Bernard Cornwell's Saxon Tales series of 4 books. I tend to line them up for future reading. a copy of IvanHoe is calling to me as well... The great thing is there IS ALWAYS ANOTHER GOOD BOOK on the horizon, just have to sight them! mad Pete I
  12. I finished up the James Nelson Series "Revolution at Sea" during our July vacation. - Excellent Series Just read "The Prairie Traveler" by Randolph Marcy - A great reference book written by an Army Captain for the noobs traveling west during American expansion. Now trying to collect the Patrick O'brien series so's I can make a non-stop run through. If I can't get the first 5-6 of that series collected, I'll start on "Arundel" and "Lively Lady" by Kenneth Roberts. His "Rabble in Arms" was an excellent read about the American Revolution. I lean toward the Historical novels (as a break between the slower but more in-depth historical non-fiction). mad Pete You may call me Pirate, but I be a learned pirate ;-)
  13. Thanks VintageSailor... you confirmed my thoughts. Havin not been that way b'fore, helps to hear from others. madPete
  14. Thank you for the scoop. If it be gettin later than 10 I be stopping at a boardin house... I know what you mean about the camper that pulls in at 2AM with floodlights on, we had one feller in our Civil War reenactments that tried to do that not just once, but twice. After that no one would have anything to do with him. madPete
  15. Aye be a noob to this gatherin, and be looking forward to it! The enthusiasm on this forum has much to do with me takin the leap. I got me ticket from Phoenix to Ft Lauderdale. Me question be... Will aye have any issues getting in and set up late on the beach there, say 8-10PM Weds night (Mercury crew)? Me flight comes into Ft Lauderdale around 5pm, so best case drivin in would be say 8PM Weds night, or should aye opt for a hotel Weds night? Thank ye kindly, madPete
  16. Adding a couple wood slats might be a good idea for strength and to give it a piratey look, There are places that sell the hinges and locks, but they are pretty pricey, unless you are restoring something. madPete
  17. Here is some food for thought... We have a civil war era trunk as in the link below. On ours the main section/sides of wood are covered in painted canvas (except for the Oak slats). That would be easy enough to do though I can't vouch that it would be entirely period correct http://www.brettunsvillage.com/trunks/forsale/t863.html Have fun what ever you do with it! madPete
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