New Simplicity pattern

[AkashaZuul]

I liked the Simplicity pattern, but the cuffs are nuts! And also make the coat very late 1600-early 1700's style. They're also terribly impractical if you need to use your arms for anything other than dancing.

I'm planning on testing out J. P. Ryan's 1750's men's coat here shortly, which seems to have more period construction techniques. Has anyone tried this pattern? I'd love to see photos of anyone's coat from that pattern.

You can see my previous posts for photos of the Simplicity coat. . .

[Red-Handed Jill]

The cuffs ARE nuts. I ended up using seam binding to hide the raw edges.

I just got a copy of the J.P. Ryan coat pattern. I need to make four red coats for the July 4th fireworks display, since we're doing a ship-to-shore cannon battle. Unfortunately, the coat only goes up to a XL and someone has asked to be the fourth cannoneer who is a size or two larger than that. So, this will be an interesting challenge.

[blackjohn]

When I was doing RevWar my wife made a coat for me from that pattern. As I recall, it's a nice workable pattern without many complications.

As for large cuffs... I will attest to the fact that while one can haul on the sheets while wearing large cuffs, it ain't easy.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

I just picked up the pattern yesterday, and I was reading over all the instructions and such, and I paused when I read over the recommended fabrics. The envelope suggests velveteen or brocade. While I can understand the brocade if your going for more of a gentleman look, velveteen is right out, no matter what. But I'm not sure what kind of facbric to do it in. I was thinking a canvas duck cloth. It's sturdy, 100% cotton so it's fairly accurate, and it won't get ruined in weather - or it shouldn't. I want it to be fairly utlitarian - keep me dry, keep me warmish

Any imput. Would canvas be incredibly difficult to work with do you think? What kind of fabric have any of you decided to use? Like I said - will be worn out in weather, so nothing that will get ruined . . .

[blackjohn]

I'd advise going with wool or linen.

[Rumba Rue]

Canvas? What are you making a coat or sail?

Noooooooo canvas! Yikes, the thought jest scares me.

As Blackjohn said, wool, linen, or a decent fabric one uses for uphostlery is good.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

I thought wool, but then I worried how it would do in the rain.

[blackjohn]

It does fine. I've been rained on, sun bleached, snowed on... after awhile, you get so used to wearing wool you wonder how you ever managed without it. :)

[Capt Grey]

I used a tapestry upholstery fabric for mine, but I had to since it was "grey".

[Patrick Hand]

....Why do you think they wore wool ......

But wool is a bit more expensive....... Cotton cordoroy looks nice (not period, but cheaper) also check out upulstery fabric.... just DON't get anything that has a rubber backing........

If you have your heart set on canvas..... think about making a differnt style coat/jacket......

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

As I said, I made one for my son... used velveteen, and it looks great.

I have been debating on fabrics for myself. I am making the waistcoat out of a fantastic upholstery fabric, but I picked up (on sale!) a quantity of some suede-like material (moleskin? Is that what it's called?). I found an even better fabric (which I did not purchase... that will be for coat #3), but I'm going to have another go at it, and see how it turns out.

[blackjohn]

Two more things wool has going for it... using a good wool means you can leave the edges raw, and if you make the coat from wool, if you show up at an event like... Hampton Blackbeard Fest... and decide to join a reenacting group, you'll be one step ahead of the game.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

The wool option sounds like my best bet - but I still have some worries. (Other then smelling like a wet sheep when it rains )

Problem seems to be - I can't lay my hands on any. My local Jo-Anns is pretty small. They only seem to be stocking wool felt. I'm going to check out some other larger warehouses nearby, but even then, that much wool might get pricey.

[Rumba Rue]

Sad ta say it be the wrong time o' the year ta be lookin' for wool. Though I do know that the local Yardage Town here in Escondido does have it.

The problem with Jo Ann's is they've gone to more craft stuff then sewing stuff.

[Patrick Hand]

Other then smelling like a wet sheep when it rains

Ach..... nothin' like th' smell O' wet sheep in th' morning........

But you will still be warm.......

[Hawkyns]

Here is your best source for wool. Period colours, good quality and advice if you need it.

http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/

If ye worry about how ye smell, ye may be in the wrong trade

My re-enactment kit smells of wet wool, moldy straw, smoke, tar, strong tobacco, and honest sweat. It gets washed when it is seriously dirty only, and then only with non-scented plain soap and hung to dry.

As an aside, I guess it's one of the things that twitch me. Smell is a powerful stimulant, and someone who looks otherwise correct, but smells of modern perfume, deo, fabric softner, and other non-period smells can really put a crimp in the suspension of disbelief.

Hawkyns

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

If you are going to go through the effort to make your coat out of wool, you should consider shelling out the extra bucks to purchase a historically authentic (not costume) pattern. The Simplicity pattern is a costume. If you are going to purchase the needed yards ($$$!) of wool, may as well go the extra yard (no pun intended) to get a better pattern. You will end up with a FAR better product when you are done.

Yes, I am making coat #2 for myself from the Simplicity pattern, but coat #3 will be made using a historically researched pattern.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

I had thought about getting a more accurate pattern - but I'm worried that it would be a more complicated pattern, and my skills are limited, and I'm doing everything by hand.

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

Yes, you are absolutely correct in your fears. They chose the name "Simplicity" for a very good reason -- their patterns are very easy to use and assemble. Historic patterns are typically (in my experience) not for the novice, and can be VERY challenging.

Find a fabric you'd be comfortable with and make your coat, but I recommend you use the exercise to hone your sewing skills and work your way toward more authentic pattern/material for a subsequent coat.

Did you read through this entire thread? I recall that someone mentioned they used wool for the Simplicity pattern, and it hung all wrong because of the weight of the fabric. I used velveteen (on sale!) for my son's coat (pictured in an earlier post), and it turned out really great.

[Capt Grey]

The natural oil in a sheep's wool (lanolin) is processed out when raw wool is made into fabric. You won't smell like a wet sheep, you'll smell like wet, processed wool.

Another place I've found wool at a reasonable price (considering it's fashion fabrics) is Trim Fabric. They have a fantastic selection of imported wools from Italy, wool blends, and others. A wide selection and no problem ordering in 10 yard quantities (which is what I do for Jedi Robes). Oftentimes the local fabric store doesn't carry enough on their bolts and I have to wait for them to restock.

Beautiful site, Hawkyn's, thanks for the link.

[blackjohn]

Hey Merc, don't give in to your fears. Itpo, you should just ditch the Simplicity pattern and pick up something more authentic. And trust me, even though putting coats together can be frustrating at times, it ain't rocket science. I've made my own coats, as well as patterns, and I'm just a simple country cartographer.

[William Brand]

The natural oil in a sheep's wool (lanolin) is processed out when raw wool is made into fabric. You won't smell like a wet sheep, you'll smell like wet, processed wool.

Another place I've found wool at a reasonable price (considering it's fashion fabrics) is Trim Fabric. They have a fantastic selection of imported wools from Italy, wool blends, and others. A wide selection and no problem ordering in 10 yard quantities (which is what I do for Jedi Robes). Oftentimes the local fabric store doesn't carry enough on their bolts and I have to wait for them to restock.

Beautiful site, Hawkyn's, thanks for the link.

Thanks for the link, Grey.

[Zath Chauvert]

I'm getting ready to make coat #2 from this pattern, this time for my brother. Coat #1 is the one I'm wearing in my profile pic. Anyway, I found some nice lightweight blood-red fabric that is supposedly (haven't done a burn test yet) 86% linen at Jo-Ann's in the clearance rack for $2/yd. The only problem is that it crinkles/puckers strangely whenever it gets wet, so if I ironed the fabric smooth again before giving it to my brother, it would look really weird once he started to sweat. Therefore, rather than ironing, I'm going to leave it wrinkled. It makes for an interesting texture, and at least this way the fabric will be uniform in appearance instead of just wrinkled under the armpits and down the middle of the back.

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

Just finished cutting out the fabric for the waistcoat from this pattern.... wish me luck.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Well, I'm going to nose around some of the sites for wool, as well as think about alternatives. I still also have to check out the fabric warehouse near here.

As far as the pattern itself goes. If some one can point me in the direction of a similar style pattern, that lends itself to hand stitching and won't boggle my mind . . . I might go for accuracy. But in the end, accuracy, while nice to have, is not something I am to worried about at this early stage in my costuming career, as even with simplicty patterns, I will be nearly a million times more accurate then some of the people attending faire.