Pirate Arms

[Zorg]

Also have found a loverly English firm makin hailshot shipsrail guns

Nasty pieces, them.

http://www.castings.fsbusiness.co.uk/

['Salem Bob']

Regarding the rifle vs. the smoothbore in New England -

The principle reason of the smoothbores popularity in New England was largely the type of hunting involved - one can take a deer with a Fowler, but one truely successfully fowl with a rifle. New Englanders being a frugal lot, (I know, I am a 13th generation one myself) tended to go with a large bore fowler, such as a New England Club butt, which could take a deer handily in the terrrain conditions at hand (and the de-forestation of New England is in largest part a 19th century phenomenon, as more and more marginal land was turned over to grazing dairy cattle and sheep - the forests of New England now are largely second and third growth scrub pine and brush, then Oak, maple and birch, elm and chestnut to a lesser extent, with far less underbrush, the line demarking mostly deciduous from needle bearing trees being up near Portland - but I wildly digress..,), take geese and duck handily, and by the hatful, and do as a militia musket in a pinch - more than one of these King William or Queen Anne long fowlers has the stock cut back from the muzzle, and a bayonet stud added.

Rifles and riflemen did exist in New England prior to the Revolution, although not commonplace - more commonly on the Western and Northern frontier. At least one, a Tim Murphy, had a double barelled rifle.

[HarborMaster]

Harpers Ferry., and the Queen Anne look great..., But for me its the .66 caliber Sea-Duty Naval model of this piece., which is back ordered and will not be available from loyalist until july..., but if you put your name in and save 50 piasters' a month...., you'll have it !.., Arrrrgh !! Pirates need cutlass's and firearms to make them feel more defended.,

HarborMaster

The link to the good looking .66 caliber hand cannon.

http://www.loyalistarms.freeservers.com/17...176366Fpis.html

[Deacon Frye]

... Rifles and riflemen did exist in New England prior to the Revolution, although not commonplace - more commonly on the Western and Northern frontier. At least one, a Tim Murphy, had a double barelled rifle.

I thought Murphy was from Pennsylvania.

[capnwilliam]

Aye, Hitman, we tend to idolize David Crockett and Daniel Boone as being true sons of the forest, but we forget that they went there to kill animals en masse for hides, for cash; just like the equally-idealized western Moutain Men of yet the next generation.

Hawkyns, your posts are giving me the idea of sticking with .62 caliber for any blackpowder weapon I acquire. Who needs a heavy cannon? Less lead, less powder, less weight to lug and lift; and "cartridge interchangeability" is a time-honored American trait.

Was in the Old West, anyway. Was so in the 18th century as well, does anyone know? But then I don't reckon too many 18th century American civilians owned a pistol: or am I wrong?

Capt. William

[Hawkyns]

I like .62 for long weapons. Both my Tulle and my better matchlock are .62 and they both work well and have plenty knockdown power. When it comes to shorter weapons, I like the larger calibers. Based on the idea that short barrel, short range, works better with multiple projectiles, .75 cal loaded with 00 buck makes for great personal protection. Pistol or blunderbuss, I want to make sure of hitting my target when I only have one shot and it really counts. Many pistols are also in the .62 range, which is fine and makes a good target round, especially with the long barrel. Depends on the philosophy- I think in terms of using for the original purpose and try to use an 18th c mindset.

Personal pistols are not uncommon among townsmen, but they tend to be pocket pistols, 3-5 inch barrels, .40-.50 cal, small side locks or, perhaps more commonly, box locks. The pistols that we tend to think of as 'pirate' pistols are designed for military use and are not for concealment.

Hawkyns

[capnwilliam]

Well, I can see your point, Hawkyns. Must admit that I thought it a bit funny when you mentioned "personal protection" - I certainly HOPE that no one on this list is relying on a flintlock to handle the job a modern .45 or .357 should be doing - but then I realized that you were talking about the mindset of one of your alter egos!

I, too, would opt for a trio of buckshot over a single larger projectile if I were in a shipboarding action, or facing a Mohawk with a 'hawk, or a bayonet with a redcoat behind it. :)

Capt. William

[Dreamie D'Avanzo]

A few of ye have been requesting I post the Queen Anne Kit we bought a few months ago, so here it 'tis:

Right side

I sanded down all the rough factory edges, stained the wood various subtle hues to make it highlight certain areas and lines, and put a wood varnish on it.

Left side

The metal panel for the side was so roughly cut that I decided to put a scrolling rose etching on it to hide the scars.

Back

Bottom

And finally we put metal bluing on all the brass, and sanded it off to give it more of an aged look.

Anywho.. thar she be.

[Barbados Jack]

Masterfully done, a very nice piece.

[HarborMaster]

Dreamie D'Avanzo

..Where did you get the Queen Anne in Kit from??.,All that I have been able to find are already put together. In Kit form I would be more inclined ta be customizing it more than I would say one of my others that was purchased as a finished piece. By the way nice work.

HarborMaster

[Hunting Hawk]

been readin yer posts on queen anne....do you gents know where i might find a non-firing replica? don't have the time (to learn how to shoot) or funds to get a working one....just want one to shove in my sash in gasparilla.

thanks!

Paisley, I found a lot of reproduction stuff that looks pretty good and Allenbey's.com. Most all of it is under fifty dollars.

Allenbeys.com

http://www.lovethosegifts.com/level.itml/icOid/4413

[Hunting Hawk]

Now I have a question about something I've been considering for awhile. Since the cost of a good arm is prohibitive right now, even the kits are more than I want to pay at the moment. And I have seen a lot of good looking non-fireing guns that are really cheap. My question is for those who have more expertise in the matter. If you could get a non-fireing replica, then find a working lock and barrel to put on them, what would keep you from making a working model out of a fake?

[Cascabel]

Now I have a question about something I've been considering for awhile. Since the cost of a good arm is prohibitive right now, even the kits are more than I want to pay at the moment. And I have seen a lot of good looking non-fireing guns that are really cheap. My question is for those who have more expertise in the matter. If you could get a non-fireing replica, then find a working lock and barrel to put on them, what would keep you from making a working model out of a fake?

It would really be far more work than the finished product would be worth. Most 'non-firing replicas' are not made at all like real guns internally. The barrels usually are only complete on the exposed areas, and mostly do not even have a "bottom half" on the part concealed by the stock. The locks are not made at all like a real one on the inside either, so the stock is not made to accept a real lock. Finding components of a close enough fit to be modified to fit the stocks would be next to impossible, and custom making them would be cost prohibitve. The quality of the stocks are also such that they would not stand the rigors of firing. There are VERY good reasons that they don't cost much !!!!!!

>>>>> Cascabel

[Hunting Hawk]

Thank ye, I've had a reproduction gun so I'm not familiar with their construction or quality. But, they do look perty.

[John Maddox Roberts]

HarborMaster:

Dixie Gun Works offers a Queen Anne kit for $195, or $245 assembled

[Hunting Hawk]

Thank ye Jack Roberts, I been tryin' to remember that name fer about ten years. I havn't done business wi' Dixie Gunworks in about thirty years when I bought my trade muskett from 'em.

[HarborMaster]

John Maddox Roberts.., Thanks for the Heads up I will have to check it out., 195.00 is HARD TO BEAT.., for a functioning lock! and a great spring project., HarborMaster

[Col. Hawkyns]

A few of ye have been requesting I post the Queen Anne Kit we bought a few months ago, so here it 'tis:

Anywho.. thar she be.

Aye!!

Thanks Dreamie!!

Very nice job!

Looks Great!!

Col. Hawkyns

[Zorg]

Nice Job, lass.

Im sendin all my kits to ya in the future. Mine usually turn out like an essay in cabinetry mistakes....

[Black Deacon]

Nice job lass. Good work.

[capnwilliam]

Hawkyns, have you used either a .62 or a .75 with round ball for deer hunting, and if so, how do they compare? Also, does anyone on the list have any experience with buckshot for deer hunting, either in a modern or BP smoothbore?

Capt. William

[the Royaliste]

I do most 'o me deer huntin' in the Dakota's and high plains, whitetail and muley's...I be buildin' a .50 cal Pennsylvania flint, the calibers you mentioned be plenty large enuff for the job, but like any weapon, shot placement is the key..As far as shot, I've fired mucho ought, double-ought, and number four, but never at deer anymore, just coyotes and geese. Didnt like the effects on the deer, I prefer a really clean kill.

[the Royaliste]

Capnwilliam.....After a little thought, I figured some explainin' be in order. Most 'o the readers may be familiar with various state huntin' laws, but some may not. The advent of slugs and shot for shootin' at antlered critters is a spin off of population growth. Prior to a lot 'o people, most all deer huntin' wuz done with one kind 'o rifle or another, barring archery seasons...Then a few citizens had to duck a round or two in the woods, and complained to the politicians. Voila!!..Those states now hunt wif shotguns, limiting bullet range and ballistics. So, somethin' to shoot outta a shotgun became necessary. Hence, deer slugs and pellets..For the safety of mankind, it might have been a good idea, but it doesn't play out well on the antlered guys.....Close in, shock kills, some good lung shots, but nowhere near the pinpoint accuracy allowed a rifleman with skills....As far as 'large calibers', well, again..personal choice. I primarily shoot whitetails with a .223, 50 gr. hollowpoint, and muley's, elk, and cariboo with my 7mm. Remington magnum....I used to shoot a .54 cal Hawkins during black powder seasons, now planning on scaling down to .45, mebbee e'en .40 (most accurate average BP round) in classic longrifle style.

[DocF225]

Before I quit hunting, I only hunted with "primative" weapons which in NYS are defined as Black Powder and Bows. Not that I can't shoot rifles just I prefered to use the primative weapons. Last time I qualified on the range before I got discharged I still carried Expert rating with both my M16 and my 9MM.

Some things to add to the "Smooth Bore vs Rifle and effective range mix". Long shots (outside 50 yds) often are taken against Antlered Critters because we (humans) are on their turf. They hear better, have a better olfactory system and know the terrain better than the hunter. Therefore it is much tougher to get in close.

Buck Shot vs Slug or Ball. Today most places have gone away from allowing shot for human safety reasons. A single projectile is easier to "control" than a handfull of smaller shot.

I have used .54 and .62 rifled musket with patched ball and rifled slugs with nearly equal results. Again, at less than 50 yards there is very little change in the ballistic travel of these rounds. With my .62 I can still take George's head out of a quarter at 100 yards and I can put 5 shots in a 3 inch circle. (Shooting is one of the few things I'm really good at ) I also have shot .50 smoothbore but the Smoothie requires some real "windage" work to keep it on target at over 75 yrds.

[William Brand]

Thank you kindly to everyone on this thread for your suggestions. I now know what I need to get meself a wheellock and a doglock.

Aye.