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Now for the Mantua...


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This is my brown mantua in progress... I was having sleeve issues.

mantuafront2.jpg

It was still a bit pinned together at this point. Any feedback is appreciated. =)

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

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Say is that not one of the gowns we fought over at the Tavern?? :rolleyes::D

Yes, I think you're right, Syren :D ! I have about four or five more things to do to it before it's completed. Thank you for your praise.

I knew it! I even went back to read the thread to be sure! Wow tis amazing and very regal! You will look bewitching! :D:D:D My wee one likes it but she has assured me I cannot wear it as it is a collectible item..I have taught her to well...

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If you got a dream chase it, cause a dream won't chase you back...(Cody Johnson Till you Can't)

 

 

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I knew it! I even went back to read the thread to be sure! Wow tis amazing and very regal! You will look bewitching! :rolleyes::D:D My wee one likes it but she has assured me I cannot wear it as it is a collectible item..I have taught her to well...

:D:D Well, do tell you're little one that Mistress McKinney only demands the best. She being a bit vain in her appearence will be the very down fall of my poor Master. (**SIGH**) Besides, when she's not about, I like to try on some of her finery...did you know she's got a matching muff, too?! Shameful, she is!

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Bess Hagarty - Indentured Servant

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

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http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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LADDDDDDDDDDDYYYYYYYYYYY BROWER!!!!!!!!!!

amazing work!!!! THAT IS FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! where do yah live? we need to sew together -- dueling sewing machines!!!

loving the brown mantua... draft your own pattern?????????? excellently done---

NOW--- i dont want to hurt you, but EVERY MANTUA i have ever seen, is split down the front.......!! the skirt is not closed together -- one should be able to see your skirts!!!!!!!!!!

QUICK-- split it down the middle front... you should be able to put off and on the mantua like a womans jacket/robe/ sweater of today!!!----

there should be no problems finishing after it is cut since the mantua gently folds and drapes.....

and the sleeves are fine--and from all the patterns and extant garment pictures that i have seen { at LEAST 2000}, THEY ARE CURVED-- a curve cut naturally in the sleeve part, shaping the elbow- there are sooooooooooo many variations of sleeves... but i have rarely seen them without the bell cuffs...........

now lady diamond and lady barbossa and cheeky and capt sterling need to pipe up their knowldege.......

way coooooooooooool!!

i am soooooooooo proud of you!!

lady constance

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Lady Brower's mantua looks like it is split down the front, but with it being pinned at the waist the way it is, it could just be overlapping.

She indicated to me in PM that she was doing her mantua with the assistance of the Janet Arnold pattern. :)

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Kate,

perhaps my eyes are not so well today..........

i cannot see any seperation at all..........

Lady Brower, i f i am wrong, please say so that i may issue you groveling galore for my eyes ineptness!!

thank God, i know Lady Brower will address issues with me , if i insult , hurt, or wound her....or have my eyes screwed on crooked.............

and Kate......... so glad you joined the topic!! and how is your mantua going? any recent pics?

al of you gals are suchhhhhhhhhh inspiration for me to keep trying to wreck gorgeous wads of fabric!

HA HA HA

lady constance

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Agreed, from the photo, it looks as if the front is just overlapping... as to sleeve issues... if she is using the Janet Arnold pattern, why are the sleeves unattached? They should be all one piece with the body of the mantua... now here comes my issue with technique... you see one did not sew a sleeve into an armhole on ladies's gowns back then as we do now. So much for modern thinking. Back then, the sleeve. whether attached or unattached (as in the Waugh pattern) would have been sewn along the underside then fitted to the top of the woman's shoulder AND THEN THE SHOULDER STRAP was LAID over the top, and then sewn... one did not create an arm hole first and then set in the sleeve... (and now that I am thinking of this, Kate this may have been why you had a bit of trouble with your gown??)

The corset underneath is lovely but the boning on the top, running horizontally, I have only seen later in the 18th century, no evidence of it that I have found for the GAoP.

It might be, indeed. The problem that I had the most, was figuring out the best order in which to do things, since the pattern didn't really have 'instructions' per say. so are you saying that if I had maybe attached the front pieces to the back pieces at the shoulders, then the tops of the sleeves....before stitching down the sides of the gown? We'll have to talk this weekend because I am not sure that I can explain myself in type well enough....

As for the pattern, she said she was doing it with help of the Arnold pattern...so I am not sure if she is following it to a T or not....which I am sure she will clarify in due time. :)

And yes, the stays are lovely....

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Right then...packing Bean's green mantua... I have yet to finish the sleeve, I can show you at least what I am talking about... perhaps someone can arrange to take pictures for the others here....and we can post them after RF.

Pack Bean too. I miss her.

I can take some photos....I am bringing all of the cameras and my laptop. :)

Edited by Kate_Souris
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WHY, cap'n.........

what are ya doing looking at such womens fripperies??? :D

i suppose your mistress wont attend to your affairs as proper like her place to do is! i can see why yah 'ave so many loves...... none of em do as ye ask them!!-- i tell you stop spoiling them with baubles and trinkets... and defintely NO affection til their behaviour is more proper of ye well trained misresses

i suppose lady brower forgot to mention that she is also making a stomacher-- so ye shant see her stays!

shooo shoo-- out of the ladies privit spaces..........!! :blink::D

lady constance

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Ahhh ...but the captain is is unequaled in the skills of removing a womans clothing therfore he is exceptional at helping to fit them properly ...for he loves the form of a woman and desires only to encourage a woman in her persuit of beauty ...which as I have said time & time again ...will be his downfall

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Oy! Cheeky...

be THIS by any chance one of those lacy head thingies like th' ones ye wear?

CI58.51.6.jpg

The Met Museum had this there and only labeled it as Lace from 18th c, only details they had were it was made of linen in Venice.

~Lady B

Tempt Fate! an' toss 't all t' Hell!"

"I'm completely innocent of whatever crime I've committed."

The one, the only,... the infamous!

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Agreed, from the photo, it looks as if the front is just overlapping... as to sleeve issues... if she is using the Janet Arnold pattern, why are the sleeves unattached? They should be all one piece with the body of the mantua... now here comes my issue with technique... you see one did not sew a sleeve into an armhole on ladies's gowns back then as we do now. So much for modern thinking. Back then, the sleeve. whether attached or unattached (as in the Waugh pattern) would have been sewn along the underside then fitted to the top of the woman's shoulder AND THEN THE SHOULDER STRAP was LAID over the top, and then sewn... one did not create an arm hole first and then set in the sleeve... (and now that I am thinking of this, Kate this may have been why you had a bit of trouble with your gown??)

The corset underneath is lovely but the boning on the top, running horizontally, I have only seen later in the 18th century, no evidence of it that I have found for the GAoP.

Eek! I missed a lot of conversation! The mantua is split down the front, and I ran into some fabric and draping issues, so my sleeves did not go in as part of one piece. I probably will not be wearing those stays with it, I am working on a new set as we type.

The instruction on setting the sleeve is a real help, I was having a lot of difficulty with that (hence only one sleeve). It's a work in progress, though I doubt I'll have any time to work on it this week because of school and other projects... =( Stuff for me seems to get shoved to the end of the list... Oh well!

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders

www.myspace.com/faerienoodle

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Lady Brower.... please accept my apologies for thinking that your mantua was not split open down the front!!{ scheduling eye appointment tomorrow!!-- i was wrong-- sorry m' lady!

and all of this talk of how the mantuas sleeves are set in........... argh!!! i know not the method of which you all speak... i saw only ONE pattern that a mantua was cut from whole cloth..... and it was for a shirt jacket length mantua { riding gently over the hips and covering half of the buttocks area.... and i beleive it was on costumers manifesto....

and in the mantua garments construction using 21 century technology and knowing of ways, with all the box set pleating of a mantua, i see no reason why i cant make 2 halves of back and the joining together of the back hidden under the center back box pleat { as there area a series of box pleats}......infact, if one cuts as such, one could then more easily DO the arms and back half as one piece..........fabric width at least 54! preferably 60inch!

observing RH patterns, these patterns do not seem to allow to have major yardage of fabric for porper lay of the mantua as i have seen in art work--- and wood cut pics...........so i suppose that i prefer the rich look instead of every day....

i can say though that for my persona ,i will contruct a shorter cut mantua.... cooking over an open fire would be a night mare in large mantua.......{and i cannot resist cooking at events...another of my loves!!}--- altrhough my dearest husband says he can and will model the mantua for me to get the folds to lay just right...

ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh-----and have i got an idea for you all as far as making a model casting of yourself to place/ fit garments on...... comes from my oldest boy who also costumes........ he amazes me--- !!!

WOOD GLUE AND STRIPS/ SHIRT on skin tight til dries { wear plastic garbage bag}...strand sit infront of fan or add quick paint drying agent.....

CUT OFF when dry---- then you close it by , get this---- LACING-- stuff it with whatever-- mount on pole --

lady constance

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ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh-----and have i got an idea for you all as far as making a model casting of yourself to place/ fit garments on...... comes from my oldest boy who also costumes........ he amazes me--- !!!

WOOD GLUE AND STRIPS/ SHIRT on skin tight til dries { wear plastic garbage bag}...strand sit infront of fan or add quick paint drying agent.....

CUT OFF when dry---- then you close it by , get this---- LACING-- stuff it with whatever-- mount on pole --

lady constance

You may also want to reference Chole's blog for her Duct Tape Double ~ a similar concept, without the drying time.

MDtrademarkFinal-1.jpg

Oooh, shiny!

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