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Now for the Mantua...


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Thanks Lily, it nearly killed me, and it still doesn't quite fit right... But thanks to the beautiful actress it got finished at all, with her help I may have used it for dog bedding. lol

Dog's Bed?! That would be one lucky dog, Lady! ;)

I have just finished another lovely hunter green mantua; making this my 9th one (RustyNell's)...and yes, they do get easier with time.

Put I cannot take all the credit for my ability. Captain Sterling made sure that I had the right information and pattern(s) to work with, not to forget the endless PMs and telephone calls to walk through some tricking issues (back/shoulders/front pleating).

I think that the majority of us are extreamly visual people and that reading vague instructions doesn't help our thought process.

Lily, I am very greatful for making stays for me...and yes, I KNOW I got the better part of the deal! :lol:

Everyone can manage making one...they just need to have the right tools to do it.

Jack/Lily...I will be more than happy to discuss this further with you if you wish to attempt another one.

Edited by Cheeky Actress

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LOL! Gosh, the two of you are so gun-shy :rolleyes: !

Okay...seeing that I am a glutton for punishment...here is something that I've had in the back of my mind for some time. Though it is a little different from the cut we've been use to...it is still within the GAoP!

TADA!

The Valdemar Slot Gown/Mantua

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The dress originally is said to belonged to Christine Elizabeth Juel. She was married at Valdemar Castle in 1695, and this gown is said to be her wedding dress. At Valdemar Castle, she and her husband lived a French inspired court life, and the dress is fashionable continental in style. She was widowed in 1709.

And yes, I know...it looks like a couch, but I am thinking a smaller pattern and a different colour

Edited by Cheeky Actress

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Oh My God! It is gorgeous! And you are just the woman to wear something like that.

I wouldn't mind one myself, and then I could double as seating for events! I'm cushion-y enough... =P I'd have matching pillows. LOL.

I have to admit, I like the fabric color and print. Is there anywhere to find fabric like that? Well, that's NOT a million dollars per yard?

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Well...there's an old saying....if you make it...they will buy it! And I am sure that I could find something similar to it if I looked hard enough. There are all sorts of places that may have something very similar, but it's the $$$ that I would be concerned about.

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OMG!!!! :blink:

CHEEKS!!!! It's fabulously gorgeous! Ye've inspirated me now. :blink: How's about the pattern to this? It looks a little different than most I've seen. But I hate to say it, almost in the style of the gold ceremony gown that Elizabeth Swann wore in PotC: Curse of the Black Pearl.

Almost.

Ok... blue gown I'm working on immediately goes up for sale so I can make a new one gown for myself... just like this one but with a different fabric.

:::jumping up and down with excitement::: CheekyCheekyCheeky!!! Oooo, I wants... :) :::Drools::::

OH damnit we are horrible. :huh: Ye know... will require proper new shoes with them :::Clears throat::: Fugawee :: cough cough::: And jewelry such as a fine pair of earrings... Oh, what finery it will require. :)

~Lady B

Tempt Fate! an' toss 't all t' Hell!"

"I'm completely innocent of whatever crime I've committed."

The one, the only,... the infamous!

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I have to admit, I am still confused on the undergarments... Were they wearing panniers in the late 17th/ early 18th centuries? The Valdemar Castle gown looks like it has something propping up the sides, and my mantua looks very droopy on the sides (and I have hips to hold it all up!)

I'm looking at Corsets and Crinolines right now, and I see that there is several references to the hooped petticote, but are they of the round sort, or are they more like pocket hoops?

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I have to admit, I am still confused on the undergarments... Were they wearing panniers in the late 17th/ early 18th centuries? The Valdemar Castle gown looks like it has something propping up the sides, and my mantua looks very droopy on the sides (and I have hips to hold it all up!)

I'm looking at Corsets and Crinolines right now, and I see that there is several references to the hooped petticote, but are they of the round sort, or are they more like pocket hoops?

I hate posting vaguely like this... But I very strongly recall a line drawing image from the early 1700 (the year 1710 comes to mind) that clearly showed some form of framework ladies undersupport for a gown... If I had to guess, the drawing made me think the item was made of caneing or some such similar thing. I can't for the life of me remember where it was posted, but I think it was CrazyCholeBlack that posted it if that helps.... Likely in the Twill section of the pub, but who knows, there is so much cross over between Twill and the Thieve's market it might be either. Again if memory serves me at all, the image was a market style image with many other items contained within it.

Hope this might help steer you in the right direction, sorry I couldn't be more specific.

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That line drawing was most likely the market place with a number of folks buying the "hoop" skirt for a foundation garment... and no way was it Chole's.

I will repost it when I get home, although it doesn't give much to go on... the foundation garment looks more like the farthingale hoops from earlier on...(I believe that was the term for the foundation garments from the Tudor/Elizabethan era)

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

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Thank you Lady B. It is very pretty, isn't it? Sadly, there is no pattern as of yet. This late 17th Century Dutch gown was a fairly current fine (3 months) and I still need to research the various lines of the garment to figure out which 'existing' pattern I can use to modify it. It's gonna be a while!

Looking back at some of the pictures of the POTC gown Miss Swan wore, it is in no way similar. The costume design crew pretty much took a mid-1700s style gown and copied it. Remember this Mantua is a Dutch interpretation of the French courts design...there are going to be some differences...

When I do finally have a pattern of this, I still need to find a similar fabric. Here is a good example of the fabric up close. As you can see it is a lovely green and pink...(or should I say moss and salmon). It's gonna be baby-steps...but I have my hands full as of the moment with Fontanges.

3548321313_289f3faa02.jpg

Edited by Cheeky Actress

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Yes, I was looking at that one in the book. It's french, yes? It's very conical for sure.

Would it would be appropriate to wear such an undergarment?

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Yes, I was looking at that one in the book. It's french, yes? It's very conical for sure.

Would it would be appropriate to wear such an undergarment?

You know...I had a feeling you were going to ask this. As of the moment, I cannot say that any of the ladies in our crew wear one, (Cheeky rolling her eyes and whistling), but I do on occasion wear a bustle/rump.

But I would have to say, Yes, for the later period GAoP.

(Maybe I should make one for example...?!?)

Edited by Cheeky Actress

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Well, we've picked our year as 1709, so I don't know if that would fall in it, except there is a quote from 1709: "I have not thoroughly examined their new-fashioned petticoats, but shall set aside one Day in the next week for that purpose" (pg 50)

And of course the "Cause of the Petticoat" from 1710.

Would this be more for the fashionable lady then, of this time?

And as for the roll or bustle, the hip rolls I know of come around the hips a little further than the bustles or "bumroll" I am familiar with, worn either under a hoop or that eventually moved into the huge butt later in the 19th century... I am no expert on these paddings! What do you wear? (Sorry to inquire so heavily into your undergarments!)

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

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Well, we've picked our year as 1709, so I don't know if that would fall in it, except there is a quote from 1709: "I have not thoroughly examined their new-fashioned petticoats, but shall set aside one Day in the next week for that purpose" (pg 50)

And of course the "Cause of the Petticoat" from 1710.

Would this be more for the fashionable lady then, of this time?

Well, the etching posted above states 1719-1720, but it doesn't necessarily mean that is when this type of foundation garment was created at the time. Keep in mind this is an artist's rendition of a social scene of the time period. We would have to do a bit more searching to find out exactly when this garment appeared.

And as for the roll or bustle, the hip rolls I know of come around the hips a little further than the bustles or "bumroll" I am familiar with, worn either under a hoop or that eventually moved into the huge butt later in the 19th century... I am no expert on these paddings! What do you wear? (Sorry to inquire so heavily into your undergarments!)

The 'rump' or 'bustle' I wear is much smaller than the 19th century creation. The type I've made is literally a pillow that rests on the small of your back (lower-back) to help rise up the back of the Mantua's mounds of fabric. I only wear the rump when I am in court gown. Yet, Bess needs so such item for her common Mantua..she has informed me that she as a big enough 'rump' as it is!

I will post pictures when I get home tonight.

Edited by Cheeky Actress

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Damn the tiny waist ...It is green it is ment for me! :P

Oh ...now ...who is gonna buy me the fabric?! LOL

Silke, I'm surprised at you...owner of an Ordinary...asking for hand outs?! Perhaps you should increase your prices...except for us Pyrate Hunters!

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Ahhh ...he age old dilemma, fantasy vs. reality. If I actually charged anyone I could afford this hobby. Heck, I could likely quit my job but then the hobby is no longer a hobby and well ...I don't want that.

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The Weekly Journal of 1718 remarked: 'Nothing can be imagined more unnatural, and consequently less agreeable. When a slender virgin stands upon a base so exorbitantly wide, she resembles a funnel (inverted)- a figure of no great elegance;and Ihave seen many fine laides of a low stature who, when they sail in their hoops about an apartment, look like children in go-carts.'

The Spectator of 1711 stated: "The hooped petticoat is made use of to keep us at a distance."

London Magazine 1741, "the circular hoop... shew'd the Beauty of the Leg and Face... and gained admirers."

According to The History of Underclothes... "the basic hooped petticoat, known as the cupola coat or bell hoop gave a dome shape or pyramidal form to the skirt of the dress. Its diameter varied from the pocket hoop. the smallest size, to the very large which could incommode the wearer and embarass the spectator-including the newspaper of that name, which recorded in 1711 seeing 'well shaped innocent Virgins bloated up, and waddling up and down like big-bellied Women."

They site the earliest bell hoop could be seen from about 1710-until 1780 in various shapes....

And thank you Cheeky for posting that picture,, saved people having to wait

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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