Tartan Jack

There were highlanders in Darien, Georgia and the Cape Fear area of North Carolina. In both, something like kilts were known (belted plaids and "philabegs"). I've heard LOTS of stories of "kilted" folks living in Western NC, but haven't proven any. Oh and as kilts as we know them didn't come into being until the late 1700s, I use the term as a "blanket" (pun intended-> "Plaid" lit. means "blanket") term for belted plaids through modern kilts. I've heard many arguments as to whether "kilt" should apply to belted plaids. Kilts were worn and have been preserved in the Carolinas for a long time, by immigrants from Scotland, ex-Highland soldiers, and the like. Also, in the American Revolution, Highlander units served the British Army, "kilted." There was a Union unit that wore kilts, but no proof has been unearthed of them worn in combat. Also, there are stories of a CSA kilted unit, but I have seen NO period proof that one actually existed. I am of Scottish descent and very interested in Scottish history, as well as GAoPirate stuff too. As the Jacobite rebellions overlap the GAoP, connections interest me. Mostly, I look at them as 2 separate things historically, trying not to force anything or see things that weren't there historically. Like piracy, there are TONS of legends about Scotsman and Highlanders. Many aren't true, some are. I comment on it here, as I have converted "saxon" suits to "kilt kit," which is helpful to the issue at hand. The other threads are b/c so many people on were are also interested in Scottish stuff, which I know well (and am part of several Scottish/Kilt groups).

These are 20-ish inches long, which puts them in the ballpark for rail guns. Now that he has the know-how, 4 foot long ones should be well reasonable. A Minion is about 7-8 feet long, with some I've seen closer to 6. These are 1/3 to 1/4 scale, due to their specific application. They are going to be mounted in a vehicle that has a 4-foot wide area and I want both to be able to be set end-to-end with the barrels facing the side windows. Hence, they are scaled down. Wood guns, however, are perfectly legit historically. They were known as "Quakers" and were used to "supplement" the real iron and bronze guns on deck. Thereby, pirates increased their intimidation factor with little extra weight added (which affects draft and speed). I've often wondered what portion of guns on real pirate ships were Quakers and what were firing iron.

Either way, I LOVE em!

Idea: Sell plans, included when buy a quaker gun barrel. I'll end up needing 2 sets of carriages. 1) one to stand alone, correct proportions 2) one to mount in windows (must be 18-20 inches tall, to trunions)

I have bought my wool from 96 District Storehouse for well over a decade (back when it was part of 96 District Fabrics). They have a store in Abbeville, SC, 45 minutes from me, but Peggy and Dennis Earp travel to many reenactment events around the US, esp. Revolution and American Civil War. One reason: wool is VERY hard to find "off-the-rack" is South Carolina. Main reason: Their wools are high quality, thick, properly made, and relatively cheap for what you get. Most are $10-$15/yard, with some of the tartan/plaid ones a bit higher, but very rarely over $20/yard. I buy on-site, to feel the weave, hand, and thickness, as well as the colors and hues. That is where my wool-experience comes from. The wool that our kilts are made of is a looser weave and somewhat coarseer than the wool the jackets etc. are made of,and do not normally leand themselvs to the raw edge construction (military kilts) the wools I find that arec affordable are at yardage store sales in the springtime, these wools are normally in the 25 to 80 dollar a yard range and can be found in every thickness, but usually in a coat wieght. The best example of the difference in the quality of material I can think of is to go to a military surplus store and compare by sight and touch the difference between an older US Navy pea coat and a new one not made for a military contract ,you can tell which is which by the price, the used navy issue jackety is more expensive than the new non-issue jacket, you get what you pay for in fabric. Yep. Worsted wool used for kilts is a completely different form of material (while also being wool) than other wools. 96 District Storehouse sells the kind used for jackets, blankets, and reenactment gear, rather than ideal for kilts (heavy worsted tartan). They are reenactors, mostly French-Indian War though American Civil War, and at many events selling material. They are gone a good chunk of the year at events. It is IDEAL wool for reenactment clothing! I have lots yardage and want more. They also sell cotton, muslin, linen, silk, and many other ideal reenactment material. I know what I am talking about. I highly recommend them. I have several types of wool, numerous kinds. I have some ideal for flags, others for kilts, others for belted plaids, and others for heavy coats, and some great for heavy, heavy blankets (one is about 30-40oz, melton, with a nice fuzzy hand, and THICK- it is my main blanket). Also: In South Carolina, VERY little wool is sold at normal fabric stores. It just isn't popular, like in other parts of the US. The winters are cold enough for long enough. I always keep an eye out for what I can find.

I have bought my wool from 96 District Storehouse for well over a decade (back when it was part of 96 District Fabrics). They have a store in Abbeville, SC, 45 minutes from me, but Peggy and Dennis Earp travel to many reenactment events around the US, esp. Revolution and American Civil War. One reason: wool is VERY hard to find "off-the-rack" is South Carolina. Main reason: Their wools are high quality, thick, properly made, and relatively cheap for what you get. Most are $10-$15/yard, with some of the tartan/plaid ones a bit higher, but very rarely over $20/yard. I buy on-site, to feel the weave, hand, and thickness, as well as the colors and hues. That is where my wool-experience comes from.

Thanks. I suspected as much based on working with thicker felted wool, but haven't noticed period-proof. I haven't examined period garments up close and personal. All the ones around here are kept well away from "tourists." My favorite blankets (plaids, using the Gaelic term) are simply cut or ripped wool yardage, left alone on the edge. None of the thicker non-worsted ones have unraveled to any meaningful extent. Worsted wool is a different animal, as it will unravel 1/4 inch or so and then pretty much quit. It's threads/yards operate different than other wools.

Once I get over my strep throat, I'll feel MUCH better! Also, . . . I LOVE the fact that they aren't identical, but are similar. It looks better that way, more authentic.

I remember you from before my cruise. I posted under Wages, before it was changed to Tartan Jack, Glad I wasn't the only one confused by the changes when I got back on.

Do those 2 lower ones already have a claimant, whose wife will be none-to-happy when she "discovers" 2 useless hunks of wood are in his road-sloop? I like the way those look!

I'm not the one to pose this question but I am also not the one to research it either ...have you doccumentation to support this statement? Would you kindly share it? Thinking the same thing . . . SOURCE? This IS Captain Twill, not other parts if the pub. Underpants tend to be wound FAR tighter in here than elsewhere (That's why I'm in the kilt . . . no undies to wind . . . Otherwise mine would be unbearable!)

Anything can be altered, it depends on how "accurate" a final result can be made from your original bought MODERN cut garment. I have altered many "Saxon" jackets into "cut away" or end-at-waist kilt jackets. I wanted the more modern shoulders and so forth. The issue COULD be shoulder structure and lapel shapes. Look behind the lapels and under the collar, seeing the material, as well as if a re-pressing would be enough to turn the tuned lapels into the top part of a closed jacket. Some work great, some look AWFUL. Also, note the cuff finish. How close or now "off" is it? You will have material to "sheath" a new one, but is the core completely off? Also, consider the modern lower pockets, which will need to be re-topped (different covers), sewn shut and hidden with embroidery, or BE the line for cutting the jacket to length (the determinate factor in a waist-length tweed jacket I once made, nearly a decade ago). The lapels, shoulders, lower outside pockets, and cuffs are dead-give-a-ways for one done badly. I'd look for a "lightly constructed" shoulder. with simple lapels that look like a "normal" full-buttoned coat when closed. That would be the simplest cut and least structured one you can find. Before I cut ANYTHING or went to a thrift store, I would look long and hard at many shots of GAoP jackets like you want to imitate and print the lost likely examples. Have those prints on hand at the store when looking at jackets. Most there are "lost causes" in trying to replicate GAoP jackets (but can be altered into something else), so limit your options to only those that already look 80-90% "there" . . . they are more like 2/3 done and will be a LOT more work than they seem.

The link: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_RVBkw9yYwUs/Se-F...00/_MG_8147.jpg

COOL! -Guess I gotta pay-up . . . Now, where was that galleon I saw yesterday . . . what was it's heading. I'm off to catch it!

Paint, Sand paint, sand again paint Shouldn't be that noticeable anymore. I have painted wooden dowels many times.

I think I may have found my sloop's window cannons . . . We're gonna talk!

Constructive criticism: Needs bands, like- From the Queen Anne's Revenge:

Anyone find a link for the bottles empty?

Sorry I derailed the intent of the thread . . . Those hats look nice, BTW.

Me likey!

Why are there three corns in the hat? (HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA- Sorry . . . )

Um, no. Wrong style hose/socks, flashes, and kilt. Those are 1900-modern with an old-style jacket and shirt. What would be appropriate for 17-teens would look markedly different. Look at "Jacobite" images from 1715 and 1745 for the correct look. That would be identical to what a pirate would have worn, IF there had been such a thing as a "kilted pirate" in the early 1700s. (Oh, and HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA I got the joke!)

I believe they adpted the knife pleat in 1794, and the yardege the was 4yrds I believe. of course the size of some of us now means a 6 yrd kilt is still covering the same amount of body. As an aside I once took a regimental kilt, much heavier than what you can normally buy, that was a 29 inch waist, opened all the pleats and repleated it to see the max waist alteration I could ge. It came out that with some creative sewining and redoing all the pleats you could get a 54 inch waist out of it,or one really decent pair of drop front trews. Bob's book shows a Gordon one, from the regimental museum, with 21 small box pleats and 3 yards, 2 inches of material. It dates from 1796. It also has NO taper, is self-fringed on both ends, and looks like it has a button closure. It is made of "hard tartan" and the yellow is silk. (Page 54) Also, there is the barrel pleats in the 1850s in many regiments. Those seem to have fallen out of favor, in preference to the knife pleat. A few of the old regimental knife pleats have the pleats going the "wrong way" around, with the wear implying they were built as barrel pleats which were then altered into knife pleats much later. The VAST majority of surviving 19th century kilts, military or civilian have box pleats. I'll look carefully at Bob's illustrations and note the earliest knife pleat he shows, but I'll do that tonight. I need to be a dad and play with my kids right now! On, and most look to have been straight sewn, no tapers, and many have what looks like suspender buttons (called "braces" in Britain). The above mentioned Gordon kilt has them! Oh, and Bob's book changes my understanding of the 18th century development of the kilt. It is WELL worth the price, for those interested in the subject!

A knife pleat is a type of side pleat. A knife pleat is pressed to a "knife edge." A loose side gather is perfectly fine, I do that often. Also, there is a decent group that now thinks beltloops MAY have been part of a belted plaid and a philabeg, just not blatantly obvious. If you buy and look at Bob's book (All About Your Kilt), he argues for and shows pictures of a couple different ideas. Peter MacDonald, I believe, is another who follows the beltloop idea. Peter is an acknowledged scholar on tartan and kilts, as is Bob. Bob, however, is much more controversial and vocal. I have met Bob a couple times and talked with him for several hours. I think he is right and on to something. If you are interested in early kilts, I would HIGHLY recommend Bob Martin's book "All About Your Kilt." Some disagree, but he backs himself up well.

Thanks. That reminds me, I need to look up when the Gordon's adopted the knife pleats . . . Oh, and the earliest ones aren't that many yards either. Bob Martin's book, in the book seller list link above, gives great historical documentation and dates of the many 1800s kilts in museums. A decent dicussion is in that one of the earliest Gordon Highlander kilts, pleating style and yardage.