Armory
The care, use, maintenance & safety of Black Powder & Edged Weapons.
489 topics in this forum
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- 17 replies
- 2.3k views
Well, they are about to have one anyway. This is what I have so far, let me know how you prefer to mount it to the shaft and what size/type you want. The way it is right now it will fit nicely in a 1" rake-handle with collar, and I will drill it for a pin-through as well, or I can put a tapered collar on it and rivet it down, with some hidden MIG welding to stiffen it up, or I can mount it to a straight cylinder/tube that will slide over any 1" shaft and pin through twice. Your choice. Does this look like what you want? Bo
Last reply by Commodore Swab, -
- 15 replies
- 4.1k views
How about a posting of some of the smaller bladed weapons? Care to share an image of your "close and personal" weapons?
Last reply by MadL, -
- 34 replies
- 7.5k views
there are quite a few tall ships out there, Rose, Kalmar Nykel, schooner Virginia, Pride of Baltimore, Pride of South Carolina, Maryland Dove, Continental Sloop Providence, etc. And aboard many of these ships are cannon. But is there a listing of the guns they carry and what exactly do they carry? Are they reproductions, originals? (doubt it) or Quakers? and if reproductions, who made them? Also as a side light, is there a current valid contact for the Continental Sloop Providence? All the ones I find are broken.
Last reply by Crudbeard, -
- 1 reply
- 1.1k views
It seems to be in vogue for blade-makers to do "file work" these days. Is this a new avenue of artistic expression or is there historic, specifically GAoP, precedent? I don't recall seeing many, if any, period blades so "decorated". To my mind, it's one of the fastest ways to muck up the otherwise clean lines of a nice blade, but I understand tastes vary.
Last reply by William Brand, -
- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
I have a dagger that someone gave me years ago. It's just a cheap fantasy style dagger but I like the blade on it so I redid the handle and put a different guard on it but I am having trouble removing the etching and what looks like black caligraphy on the back of the blade. The design is pretty cheezy. Gonna try sandblasting it tomorrow. Any thoughts? I'll post some pictures tomorrow hopefully
Last reply by captscurvy_nc, -
- 9 replies
- 2.8k views
From LiveScience.com comes this report that cannonballs actually can sink ships! Who'd a-thunk it?! It even addresses the notorious Splinter Issue... Link is here--> http://www.livescience.com/history/090715-cannonball-ship.html Cannonballs Really Could Sink Ships, Study Finds By LiveScience Staff Long before the Navy used torpedoes, rockets and nuclear missiles to fire at the enemy, ship captains relied on more blunt weapons — cannonballs. But how effective were cannonballs at sinking battleships? New research shows that cannon fire could have brought down at least one battleship, a recently discovered 19th-century warship that sank off the coast of Acre, Isra…
Last reply by gunner Gordon, -
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
Well after hours and hours of reading through code and trying to save our website, we decided to wipe it clean and start all over. We managed to save something’s, but most is gone. Google and Yahoo have already cleared us. Some other protection services may take a day or two, but we are all clear and safe to browse again I will be working every night to get our site back up better then before. Thanks for all the support thought these times. I can't tell you how down I have been because of this. It's going to take awhile to get it back to where it was but at least this time I can make it exactly how I everyone wants it. During this rebuilding stage we could use as much …
Last reply by PoD, -
- 7 replies
- 1.7k views
So, we have these cups sitting around that are just a bit to thick. We didnt have much use for them. I decided I would try faceting the cup just like I do a pommel to take the wieght off and this is what came of it. I think it turned out awesome and I am already preping for a spiral faceted cup. I only have one fuzzy shot of the blade. It is one of our standard diamond ground rapier blades. As always comments welcome!
Last reply by 1stMate Matt, -
- 10 replies
- 5.6k views
Dixon's Gunmakers Fair [ Friday July 24th, Saturday July 25th, & Sunday July 26, 2009 ] For those unfamiliar with this Fair, it's an annual gathering of muzzleloading gunsmiths amateur and professional, as well as the suppliers for that craft. If you're in the area or passing by on any of the dates above, it's well-worth the visit. For planning purposes, the Fair is roughly 30 minutes west on RT 78 from where it intersects the Pennsylvania Turnpike's Northeast Extension (about 45+ minutes West of Allentown, all told). http://dixonmuzzleloading.com/index.php?se...n=gunmakersfair
Last reply by blackjohn, -
- 12 replies
- 3.2k views
I have a problem with my pirate interpretation. I portray a buccaneer of 1670-1680. In looking around for a proper pistol, I find that a doglock would be best. From what I've seen the only ones available are huge monstroseties circa 1640, English Civil War cavalry weapons. Granted that the Queen Anne pistol is available, but that is usually considered to be 1700 and later. I am seeking a piece which would be correctly representative of the period my portrayal represents. I've only found the doglock from Middle Village Trading Company and Loyalist Arms. Are there any ohers available? Are there any older ones, that might be around or available? Thanks. Black Jack …
Last reply by Asolfr, -
- 16 replies
- 4.4k views
I took my Denix replica, which just looked too new..and also I hated the skull and crossbones on the grip. I decided to repaint it to look old, my pirate persona's name is Dirty Gertie, so I wanted to reflect that in her choice of weapons. First I used a letter opener and just tapped it around the wood to give scratches and wear marks. I used black acrylic paint, and rubbed it into the stock. Then I used a combination of metallic bronze, burnt umber and burnt sienna and dabbed it on, and then wiped it off to give it a rusty, well used look. I tried to keep in mind where the wear would be, around the trigger, and on the grip. Then I rubbed the paint off with a wet clot…
Last reply by Asolfr, -
- 11 replies
- 1.6k views
My father passed away recently and part of my inheritance was this signal cannon. At least I think it’s a signal cannon. I had to clean it out a bit but it seems ready to go now. Having never fired a little beastie like this I wanted to know what I am dealing with and if I should even bother. Any help perhaps please?
Last reply by Cascabel, -
- 6 replies
- 1.5k views
We made this double fullered baskethilt yesterday along with a pair of rapiers and some crazy axes. Anyway. This is a one off blade that I ground from a random piece of alloy. I added some Swatton style fullers up the spine that I think set the piece off. It has a full grind on onbe edge and a flase edge on the back of the blade. The blade is slightly curved and polished. I would have liked to have speant a few more hours on this guy but I thought I would share it with you all anyway. I believe the customer plans to line the inside of the basket with some leather.
Last reply by Commodore Swab, -
- 11 replies
- 3.1k views
I found this at an antique shop this morning. I thought it looked kind of cool, and I wonder if it is/ resembles something PC and what it actually is, it looks to me like a butcher knife of sorts... Thanks for the help!
Last reply by callenish gunner, -
- 8 replies
- 1.9k views
As promised, last week, here are some better pictures for your perusal and enjoyment. Sorry that they are a day late but I was having serious issues with photobucket. Anyhow, I hope that you enjoy them and can maybe use them for reference purposes. The rest of the pictures are at: More Muskets and Pistols. I hope that you all enjoy them.
Last reply by Glasgow Jon, -
- 5 replies
- 3.3k views
Ok, By now, many of you have handled the Denix Flintlock Replica's (REAL FL's ARE EXPENSIVE) and besides, you cant carry real ones in public, Ok, And By now you know that the hammers (Or Cocks) are inherently Weak at the neck, hence you cannot dry fire them much, Here is the Simple repair, modification that will add charm, realism, and best of all, functionality to these replica's. No one out there seems to know how to fix em when they break, I do. You will need Steel Putty, a Sculpting knife, Imagination, and time. Steel Putty can be bought at your local Auto Parts store, I prefer the MAGNUM Putty as it holds 1000 Shearing pounds, Its easy to work with, and during the c…
Last reply by Gunpowder Gertie, -
- 6 replies
- 2.6k views
The following is a quote from "The Sea Gunner" circa 1691: There is good use made of Hand-Granadoes in Assaults and Boarding of Ships; these are made upon a Mould made of Twine, and covered over with Cartridge Paper and Musket Bullets cut in two, put with Past and bits of Paper thick on the out-side. After you have doubled the Shells, past on some at a time, and let it dry, and put some more until it be quite full; then dip it in scalding Rossen or Pitch and hang it up and it is for your use: But you must have the innermost end of the Twine left out, and before you pitch it you must draw out the Twine and stop the hole, and then pitch it. To Load them, fill these shell…
Last reply by Morgan Dreadlocke, -
- 2 replies
- 842 views
Whilst on me travels around and about Glasgow today, I wondered into the Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery. Inside I found these pretties and thought that I would try to share them with ye. My apologies in advance but as I only have a camera-phone the quality of the pictures is less than I had hoped for. I am returning there on Monday next and I will endeavour to get some better images or some video. Please enjoy. Just in case the photos do not load for some reason, here are the direct links. http://s718.photobucket.com/albums/ww183/jon_ducarr/Muskets/ http://s718.photobucket.com/albums/ww183/j...tish%20Pistols/ Thank you for looking.
Last reply by Commodore Swab, -
- 30 replies
- 6.2k views
As many of you know I have been commisioned to make the great pirate hunter a special cutlass. I was asked to make my version of this sword. I started with a 12" inch piece of rod that used to be an upright on 100 year old Trolley car. I then hot forged the D-ring shape. I didnt get any pictures of the start of the blade. What I did was I double fullered it on the backside. I used the edge of my sander and just took my time. I then ground the blade to shape and heat treated it. During the HT we cycled the blade a few times to get it good in scaled in the fullers. I then added the details to the guard. I did most of this on the sander but some was forged in…
Last reply by 1stMate Matt, -
- 31 replies
- 6.7k views
As some of you have seen, I have started a trade thread in the market and Mr D.Man has taken me up on it. I am making him a bowie knife in trade for some gear that he had. I asked him if it would be cool for me to start a build thread on his knife so here it goes! First we have to cut the blade blank out. Here we will use our CnC plasma table to cut the blank out of some alloy. The piece of alloy that we will use for the knife is the negative left over fromus cutting out our huggggggge leaf blades a few years back. We try to use up every little piece of metal that we canand the rest gets used for damascus billets. Here is a short video of our CnC cutter making the blad…
Last reply by PoD, -
- 6 replies
- 3.1k views
I have a 2/3 scale 6 pounder made by hern iron works. I am in the process of making the carriage. will post pictures next week when complete. what type of powder should I be using and how muck? I have installed a cannon lock as well. someone mentioned to me that you can get a bigger boom with tripple 7. I have read alot that goex is the better way to go. Which is more apropriate for a cannon and how much powder should I use and how should I pack it?
Last reply by Commodore Swab, -
- 6 replies
- 1.2k views
Iv found quite a bit on iron cased grenadoes of the period, but not quite so much on improvised glass grenadoes. They seemed to be common enough to be mentioned a number of times in period texts. does anyone have any description of their construction? I wish to make a few(that dont work of course) for a grenadier kit. The basic understanding i have is glass filled with powder, nails etc. , covered in tar, wrapped in rope for grip, insert fuse,cover opening with wax+cloth...is that about right? Other than the grenades i believe id need a bag to carry them in, and a slow burning match in the right hand(theres an image i saw of this somewhere on the pub)
Last reply by Mr.Tignor, -
- 14 replies
- 9.2k views
Has anyone had experience with Loyalist Arms weaponry? Is it any good? http://www.loyalistarms.com/pirateswordscutlasses%20.html 17th Century shell guard cutlass. Iron guard, wood grip. Blade, 26" X 1 9/16, with 2 fullers OAL. 32 1/2". - $121.00 US.
Last reply by Joe Pyrat, -
- 8 replies
- 2.2k views
I have one of my small cannon barrels that the casting didn't turn out very good (lack of detail in the sand) and while looking thru a friends book I came across a picture of a rather large pistol that has almost the exact shape as my barrel and is just a little larger. I decided to cut off the truniuns and turn the barrel down on the lathe to make this into a pistol instead of just melting the bronze down again. Does anybody out there have any other pictures of anything like this?
Last reply by Story, -
- 14 replies
- 5.4k views
I have a tool laying around that needs a new handle. It is a hatchet on one side and a hammer on the other. (Edit: See post below for much closer pict) Is there a proper name for it? I was digging around stuff in my shed and found it with a rotten wooden handle. I think it came with the house. I don't recall buying it.
Last reply by blackjohn,
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