New Simplicity pattern

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

Well, ye can't expect to highjack me website forever with yer pics. It's about time ye got yer own.

Working on it... working on it...

But my sincerest thanks for the use o' yer space.

I was able to post the pic on the "Fool's Gold" Yahoo group space, but that does not seem to allow re-posting of pics...

[Silkie McDonough]

Had the same problem. Use photobucket.com

[LadyBarbossa]

Awwww .. yer Lad is adorable, Pete! A fine outfit! Right nice an' b'fittin' on the young lad.

Is William th' Bloody attending Port Washington with ya?

[Capt. Sterling]

If you are going to go through the effort to make your coat out of wool, you should consider shelling out the extra bucks to purchase a historically authentic (not costume) pattern.  The Simplicity pattern is a costume.  If you are going to purchase the needed yards ($$$!) of wool, may as well go the extra yard (no pun intended) to get a better pattern.  You will end up with a FAR better product when you are done.

Yes, I am making coat #2 for myself from the Simplicity pattern, but coat #3 will be made using a historically researched pattern.

I totally agree and right here in the pub is some of the very best researched, historically accurate patterns available for GAoP. Kass, one of the regular posters in Captain Twill, has just launched a series of pirate clothing patterns all based on actual garments and/or research of the late 17th century-early 18th century. You cannot find a better pattern on the market when it comes to historically accurate pirate gear. And as for fall front breeches, I do believe they came out after the GAoP, button front was the thing for that time period... I hate to say it, for all the good that Simplicity does, it is still a costume pure and simple.

Just wanted to let them that do want historically correct gear know to go to www.reconstructinghistory.com. Look under patterns and you'll find the GAoP patterns that are currently available for preorder, INCLUDING proper ladies' wear.

[Capt. Sterling]

I had thought about getting a more accurate pattern - but I'm worried that it would be a more complicated pattern, and my skills are limited, and I'm doing everything by hand.

GAoP clothing is really not as complicated as it looks and there are those that are willing and able on this list to help talk you through putting your kit together... and as for sewing it all by hand, what could be more period correct than that?! It's perfect! :)

[LadyBarbossa]

If ya have the money to blow on ANY historical patterns, then by all means do so.

I.. for one, don't have the money to blow on them. I've bought one pattern that was for stays. I also bought a pattern on stays/corsets from a commercial pattern maker (Butterick I believe). But I cannot complain totally about it. For a $1, I can buy a cheaper pattern, alter it after the research done and comparing to various books, images, etc. Which, in many cases is not all that hard.

Honestly, what makes the commercial patterns so difficult for people is that once finished, the outfit doesn't look right - either too big, or too small, etc.

Well, I have come to know my own body measurements in my head to when I look at a pattern when laid out, I can make those proper adjustments to where the outfit fits perfectly.

Cheaper commercial patterns out there can be adjusted and altered to make more authentic attire.

The fall front breeches... well, those can be altered to be made into fly front breeches.

I did a pair of fly front style pantaloons (a la Barbossa pants style) from a much older Simplicity pattern that was NO where close to an authentic style. However, a couple minor alterations that was dramatic enough made it a more dramatic change. No elastic waist but with a waistband, fly front, button at the knees, etc... Aye, they are a fine pair.

Ditto with all my gowns. I took those patterns and altered the patterns to be more of a authentic cut and sew style. Again, it's not that hard. If you have at least one book that shows you how the outfits were constructed, you can take these commercial patterns that go on for sale (like currently, check out Hancock Fabrics or even JoAnn fabrics for pattern sales).... use the books for references, make the adjustments... there you have it.

Granted people put their hearts, souls, money, life, etc in these patterns to research, etc... well, I've not been going that far, I've just gone far enough to see a few outfits by chance, read a couple books, watch a few movies, look at others outfits, etc... but not gone overboard with it to complete expertise. I just know the difference now in the make of attire just by the few books out there, etc to know what I can & need to do to make my outfit look authentic.

But.. of course... with piracy... sometimes I don't want to look totally authentic. Piracy is my escape away from the strict nazi world of authenitic historical re-enacting. Don't get me wrong, I cringe at folks that bark about my oufits not being right.. but these are the type that have black tennis shoes on or shoes that are barely passible as 18th c. at least I attempt to go to lengths to pass off as 18th c.

Again, looking forward to seeing those coats, Pete! :)

Mercenary Wench... patterns are not all that complicated.. just time consuming. When doing them by hand, they definitely take longer depending upon your time. Take your time, hun.

I know it took me 6 weeks to hand sew one outfit of mine & I took it to work with me during those 6 weeks! It seemed I would work on it 24/7.

I've just started work on my nephew's pirate outfit.. and will be starting my new one soon. Both will be hand sewn since I don't have a sewing machine any more.

But, sewing by hand has got to be far better than by machine in my opinion.. you feel you have a bit more control and creativity that way.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

I had thought about getting a more accurate pattern - but I'm worried that it would be a more complicated pattern, and my skills are limited, and I'm doing everything by hand.

GAoP clothing is really not as complicated as it looks and there are those that are willing and able on this list to help talk you through putting your kit together... and as for sewing it all by hand, what could be more period correct than that?! It's perfect! :)

Oh, well yeah . . . for any actual costume or garb - I go as accurate as humanly possible for me. I have made a good percentage of my costumes, and would only use historically accurate patterns for them. But I really needed a new winter coat, and I really thought the simplicity pattern looked spifftacular, so I deicded to kill two birds with one stone, so to speak. Would never wear the thing to faire or a reenactment or the like. Wouldn't be proper - but it looks pretty snazy over a pair of black bondgage pants, a black chemise top and my dark purple corset. I goth up very well . .

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

...but it looks pretty snazy over a pair of black bondgage pants, a black chemise top and my dark purple corset. I goth up very well...

Pictures! Pictures! ... tease.

As for my own project, It is coming along well, but I have hit the slow part. The body of the coat is complete. I still need to sew the cuffs and sleeves together , then attach them to the coat.

I have tacked (machine sewed) the braid to the coat to hold it all in place, and am now hand-sewing back over all the braid while removing the machine tacking. As this involves about 20 to 25 feet of braid, and as I am endeavoring to make my hand stiches "invisible" (sewing within the grain of the braid), this is going to take me a long, long time.

Picked up another set of 8 needed buttons. That exhausts three local Jo Ann Fabrics. The first one should be restocked (with another 8) by the end of the week; two more raids and I will have my quota.

While at Jo Ann's today, I purchased my daughter a sewing machine (I have two -- she wanted one of mine. It was easier to simply buy her a brand new one.) She was so excited, she used some of the leftover fabric from my pirate coat to make my wife a bodice. She is not finished, but it looks sharp as hell. I should have purchased her the machine a long time ago, and told her I wanted a pirate coat.

More updates to come...

[Capt. Sterling]

Cheaper commercial patterns out there can be adjusted and altered to make more authentic attire.

I suppose that would be an alternative if your time isn't worth much... but why reinvent the wheel when you have all your shoulder seams in the right place and pleats the right size to begin with? :)

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

Update...

I streamlined the process by only hand-tacking the braid. I have finished it. I will later go back over ALL the braind and more securely attach it.

This allows me to hem the coat, attach the sleeves and add the buttons. Then I have something I can take pictures of.

My fingers are sore.

Regarding the buttons, I have a dozone 40% off coupons for Jo-Ann Fabrics and Michaels Craft stores (each!) for this weekend... hmm....

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

Is William th' Bloody attending Port Washington with ya?

He lives with his mother, and it is unclear whether he will be with me that weekend. We shall see.

But the coat is done. The sleeves are on, and it looks terrific (IMHO). I need to finish securing all the braid, as well as attaching the buttons (20 - and I have them all). When the buttons are on, I will get some pics.

[LadyBarbossa]

Ahhh... well, hope the lad will be able to join his dad on this exciting adventure. He won't be alone since my nephew plus Red Bess' and Sjovorjen's boy's 'll be there as well.

Eager to see your new outfits. The lad's outfit is spectacular!

Doing one for my nephew right now as well as a couple more new additions for myself. Hopefully will have them finished in time for Port Washington. I need something else other than that black outfit I currently have.

OH! and if there is a Hancock fabrics near you as well... they have a sale on some upholstry fabric! I bought some fabric enough to make a couple new bodices with... for less than $50! The fabric is wonderful and lovely!

I'll be going back for a couple more yards to make a couple more bodices.. or maybe skip those and get fabric to make velveteen breeches. :: Shrugs:: who knows.

I LOVE sales.

And Mr Sterling...

Tis nice and all that there are some folks out there who make these historical patterns but I still cannot justify spending over $15 a pattern.

Commercial patterns are not as tabboo as some think. Their seams are not in all the wrong places, etc. Adjustments made here, adjustments made there... be it with a cheaper commercial pattern or a more pricy historical pattern, there will always be adjustments needed. I personally can use that $15 to get myself 15 patterns compared to only 1 pattern.

As to time, Mr Sterling is precious to us all. And certain patterns are not going to make one's sewing time better.

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

The coat is finished. I will still have to secure the edges of the braid on the bottom 10 inches on both sides, but that should be accomplished during my round-trip commute tomorrow.

Pictures within a few days.

But - joy of joys! - My colonial shoes arrived today! I am breaking them in so I can attach the buckles. Yay!

All that's left are the breeches, then it's upgrades or replacements (or extras) of existing garments.

[The Doctor]

My twill justaucorps, based off the Simplicity pattern, will be up for sale on eBay. I'll be sure to post a picture and a very reasonable price. :)

[Rummy3]

The Simpliticy pattern you mentioned, #4923, Lady Barbosa is the exact one that I used to make the coat for my old boyfriend a couple of years ago. My biggest hurdle was the weight of the fabric that I chose! It was a great green cut velvet, but it must have weighed 8 pounds when I was finished! The next one I make will be for my fiance and I plan to use a much lighter-weight fabric this time. The pattern served its purpose and I agree, beautiful as they were, the celtic knot buttons that I chose cost nearly as much as the fabric!

[Red-Handed Jill]

Yeah, good buttons can be mighty pricey; and that coat uses quite a lot of them. I did three versions of that coat (Rummy, I think you saw one of them at Kearny - the dark taupe with the gold trim and buttons.) Mine is dark grey with pearl (fake) and filigree buttons - twenty seven of them in all. I used a heavy, dense fabric for mine, so it weighs a ton as well.

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

So, did I just luck out and make all the right choices? The upholstery fabric I chose is thick, but relatively lightweight. Of course, I waited virtually forever before choosing the fabric. When it is on, it is not that heavy, but being a dark(er) blue, I cannot imagine how much solar power it will absorb. I have yet to test this.

As I mentioned previously, the buttons I chose were $1 each ($2 per card of 2). But I used a whole bunch of coupons to get them, so I got 40% off one card each time I purchased a batch of eight buttons (80c savings each trip). I added extra buttons beyond what the pattern calls for -- if I am not mistaken, there are 30 total.

I could not be happier with the coat.

....But, that being said, it would appear that my son may have totally lost the coat I made him (the one previously pictured here and in the pics on the Yahoo group site). Jeez. I cannot begin to think about replacing it. Red-Handed Jill, you made three? I would have hoped to never compete with that count, but I fear I may have to. Ugh.

[LadyBarbossa]

Ouch!

The lad having misplaced the frock coat ya made him? Oooo... I can sympathize there, mate.

Prayers that the coat turns up. It was a fine coat for such a young lad.

[Red-Handed Jill]

Once you've made one, you'll find that any subsequent ones are much easier. You should see the coats I'm working on right now - 1750's English gun crew and officer's coats: two of each (blue with red lining, red with black lining.) Plus a Nelson-era Sailing Master coat in extra-large (blue with white lining.) These will take awhile, but I'll try to remember to post pictures when they are done.

[Durty Mick Moon]

ahoy there....I been google searchin for a good (not cheap) pattern for a nice frock coat....not like the simplicity or other costumy patterns but something with a little more oomph if ye know what I mean....somethin quality like, and classy (like me, HA) with straight shoulders and a good line....ye know?...so does anyone have suggestions for a website? if ye direct me to a good one I'll be buyin all yer drinks for all long as ye can stand it...or I fall down, which ever comes first...and I apologize if there has been something posted previously I'm just too damn lazy to look for it

[Red-Handed Jill]

Kass makes the best patterns! Check them out at http://reconstructinghistory.com/

[Gentleman of Fortune]

The thread shouldn't be that hard to find!

GoF

[Durty Mick Moon]

aye, me apologies for being a miserable lazy good for nothing....with a renewed burst of energy and focus (damnable ADD)...I've gone back and read the thread in Plunder about the Justaucorps coats n you are right...I'll be sending off me order, looks like an excellent package...I'd rather spend $25 for something worthwhile than a couple bucks on some cheap stuff....thanks for your suggestion, job well done, sir....and you are in England?...I have a half-sister living on the Isle of Wight who I visit from time to time....maybe I'll be buyin your pints soon enough!....cheers

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

Once you've made one, you'll find that any subsequent ones are much easier...

On this I must agree with you. The first coat took forever. I kept having to rip out seams and reattach bits when I made mistakes. It turned out fine, but it was a royal pain.

The second coat was much, much easier. I was far more confident, double-stitched most seams the first time through (for added stability -- this fabric was more prone to fraying), knew when to stop and hand-sew things for a few days before retuiring to the machine, etc., etc.

Again, much-promised pictures to follow soon...

[Cap'n Pete Straw]

No more promises. Now it is time I deliver. Here is my coat.

Below the waist I am wearing Civil War dropfall trowsers and CW cavalry boots, 'cuz I was not done with my breeches (finished them this afternoon) and have not put the buckles on my shoes yet.

Yes, that's the "Puffy" shirt (International Male).

Of course, I had to strike a Captain Morgan pose...