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Flintlock rifles, muskets, and pistols


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Aye...but then, paper cartridges for flintlocks and percussions are primarily a more convenient way to carry the components, and a faster way to load them, rahter than being an entirely different ignition system.

Then, to make muddy waters even muddier, there are also true black powder cartridges and cartridge weapons! But, these truly ARE cartridge guns, rather than flintlock or persussion: they just use black powder instead of smokeless.

Capt. William

:blink:

"The fight's not over while there's a shot in the locker!"

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I have fabricated belt hooks for all my pistols. They make for very comfortable and secure carrying. They are also a 100% authentic way to carry a pistol.

The holster as we think of it today did not exist in the 18th century. Those people that had reason to carry pistols just shoved them in their belt or sash if they were too large for a pocket and did not have a hook on them.

Carrying of large pistols at the time was mostly something done by people on horseback, and the pistols were carried in saddle mounted holsters. Sailors on board ships (other than pirates) were issued pistols immediately before battle from the ship's armory. It was quite common for pistols aboard ship to have these belt hooks. Belt hooks were also seen on pistols carried by Highlanders, as they were among the few that used them in battle on foot (other than sailors).

Another advantage of the belt hook is that the entire pistol can be seen, adding to your chance to show off your neat looking pirate stuff !!!! Trying to shove a flintlock pistol into any kind of a holster is a compromise at best. Usually the lock parts interfere with a good fit.

The hooks were available in various lengths, and I much prefer the longer ones to prevent the pistol from being dislodged when sitting down. The hooks used on the Scottish pistols are a bit short for practicality in my view. Pictures of these hooks can be seen in 'Boarders Away' by Gilkerson.

>>>>>>Cascabel

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I just bought a Dixie Charleville pistol from DGW and it's a beauty. A bit late for our period, but flintlock design changed little over 200 years and it will pass muster for any except the most anal retentive authenticity buff. Haven't had a chance to shoot her yet, but she sparks well and set off a priming charge on the first try. At .69 calibre she'll take down the toughest king's man. Has a belt hook, too.

I also have a Queen Anne. Now contemplating a shortened Brown Bess of the sort marketed as an Indian Trade musket. I think it would make an ideal boarding weapon.

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Wasn't it the addition of a belt hook that transformed a plain-vanilla flintlock pistol into a Sea Service pistol, Cascabel?

:lol:

Capt. William

No, the addition of a belt hook was just a convenience that could be added to any pistol.

The "Sea Service Pistol" was an actual model designation with official dimensions and specifications as laid down in writing by the Navy of whichever country you have in mind. Actually, the Sea Service pistols of most countries were considerably different from those issued to land forces. Usually, they were a bit more "clunky" in appearance due to being made stronger to withstand the rigors of naval service, and generally were less nicely finished.

>>>>>> Cascabel

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Putting in my two pence on the subject:

If you take a look through Newman's

"Weapons of the American Revolution"

you can see what Cascabel is talking about,

as far as esthetic looks between pistol models.

Also I believe that "sea service" firelocks

were sometimes laquered to help keep

rust at bay.

Cheers

Redhand

:lol:

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That hook in the photo from Thunder Ridge is sort of what I am describing. I can't tell from the picture exactly how it is attatched, but in order for it not to rotate around the screw and damage the stock, it NEEDS to have some sort of pin to stabilize it. On the ones I make, I use the rear most lock screw, plus a pin that enters the side plate. I also prefer a hook considerably longer for security. That one is the right general idea, but you would be amazed at how easily a short hook unhooks from your belt when walking or sitting.

>>>>>. Cascabel

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O.K., With a bit of help from TalesOfTheSevenSeas, I'm attempting to post a couple of different belt hook designs that I fabricated. Take note of the longer length which I prefer, and also the anti-rotation pins and holes to receive them in the sideplates. (I hope the pictures open O.K. I'm really not 100% sure how to do it. Computers are not my specialty)

>>>>> Cascabel

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I know Dixie gun works sells the belt hooks that you are showing and they wcome with both the screw and the small pin to keep everything in place. They also sell a blackpowder pistol holster. It is made of good leather and it works quite well to keep your gun holstered. It is a bit rough though on drawing the weapon. Although it fits most pistols, it doesn't fit them all very well. The hook used is the best.

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The belt hook that Dixie sells LOOKS nice, but I advise caution. It is a casting, and sometimes castings, especially thin ones like these tend to not be very strong. A forged hook, or one cut from thick sheet metal will bend rather than break under stress and can be straightened if need be.

Try it if you like, but keep in mind it may break in use. Be particularly cautious of thin BRASS castings. The one they sell appears to be copied from an original, and looks very good from a decorative standpoint.

>>>>> Cascabel

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Cascabel-

I have a 62 cal. pistol made from Northstar componants,

how much would you charge to fabricate a belt hook for it?

Would you need the pistol, or would several digital

pictures work? I used to have a 72 cal pistol made from

an old Sharon barrel and it had a belt hook, it's the only

way to go, besides a bucket holster....

but then you need a horse-LOL!

Cheers

Redhand

B)

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Back to ye, Redhand....

I would have to have the pistol in order to do a proper job. The least it would be is $50.00 to make one. Without actually seeing the pistol, that is the best I can tell you.

The job almost always involves lengthening the rear lock screw slightly, or making a new one, and usually the front screw head needs to be made rounded if it is not already that way(not a big deal), in order not to catch on your belt or sash upon inserting the gun into your belt or sash or withdrawing it. Sometimes it can be more involved than that, such as on the Harper's Ferry reproductions, which have a recessed lock screw, and an oversized hole trhough the stock and require the making of a filler bushing.

>>>>> Cascabel

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