Making a full kit in four months

[madPete]

2 hours ago, TudorSmith said:

I have an entire giant roll of the fabric if you want any! No idea the official contents but I'd say full cotton, maybe a cotton heavy cotton-linen blend. Definitely natural fibers based off burn test. Obvi, full linen would be better, but this was a lovely steal at the low price of "free" lol. 

The cuffs are just shy of 2 inches, so a bit past that outside margin. I think they were supposed to be closer to that inch and a half but I tend to cut wider for extra seam allowance but then never use it. I will definitely adjust that if I make it to a third shift!

Looks great! Your French seam in particular is so clean I could swoon. I'm only on my second attempt ever on French seams so they are still not quite as trim and smooth. But one more technique I plan on perfecting as I go lol. If nothing else this whole absurdly ambitious project has definitely taught me a few things. 

Bring a sample of your fabric to Ft Gaines. I'm supposed to demonstrate clothing and bring fabric samples anyway. If its something I can use or even suggest a good use for it could be worthwhile.  I can't use more fabric til after Ft Gaines anyway. My hands are full right now.

 

Seam is not as clean as it appears. It is machine sewn, but it blends in on that heavy fabric. I dont normally do french seams, but it was easier than my regular method, and probably stronger,  at least for the side seams. I keep trying new things now that I'm not so burned out on stitching. Trying new things keeps it fresh.

[Mary Diamond]

Beautiful work on the gathering, and I also quite like the fabric! Well done…

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

I officially now know more about turn back "French" cuffs then anyone off saville row probably needs to. Long an short, yes turn back cuffs have precedent back to middle ages. Not particularly correct for GAoP but wouldn't be confusing or unheard of....plus I just really liked how it looked. 

Over all of very pleased with the results of this shirt project.

Completing this brings me up to a pair of slops, a set of stays, two shirts, a jacket, two pairs of boots, four pairs of socks and a hat for clothing kit. Other kit includes two prop pistols, two work knives, a leather satchel, a portable writing desk, a pewter mug.

Next project is a petticoat (my wardrobe is going to be a mix of mens and women's gear). Red linen, washed and ready to go, but seemed to have considerable shrinkage so I'm working with 3+ yards instead of 4. To maximize usage/minimize waste, thinking of cutting thee panels, cut edges for top and bottom, selvedge edges for interior seams so i can also save time and not have to french seam or flat fell inside. 

I am feeling moderately ok about progress but I'm thinking I will rely more on skirts then slops as I had planned, as I can probably crank several of them out in the time it would take me to do a second pair of slops. 

I also have no idea how it looks all put together yet, really. My mirror lies and my photographer to get a full outfit shot is unavailable so let's just hope it all works together.

So....onto the next ....

 

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

On 8/12/2023 at 11:15 PM, madPete said:

Bring a sample of your fabric to Ft Gaines. I'm supposed to demonstrate clothing and bring fabric samples anyway. If its something I can use or even suggest a good use for it could be worthwhile.  I can't use more fabric til after Ft Gaines anyway. My hands are full right now.

Will do! I have a second 3 yard segment cut and washed already that would be easy to throw in a bin for you to demo!!

Out of curiosity I did a second burn test, cause as I was hemming it I noticed a little more stretch then I would expect, but it actually burned better then I remembered it...still think there is something suspect in there but hardly if at all. 

And the color and hand are delightful.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Egregious photo dump of red petticoat in process. 

Main construction was by machine. Visible finishes will be by hand. Did a fast and dirty cartridge pleating/gathering into the waistband. Due to the shrinkage shortage, one side is fuller then the other but I think it works.

 

I feel like my shirts have been better executed and my jacket required more technical skill, but I think this is the item I've made so far that I like the best...

[madPete]

looking good!

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Ok so... Red skirt is done.

I want to do a second skirt.

I have two 2-yard+ chunks of purple linen that are close-ish in shade but different enough that it's highly noticeable. They are both wide with.  I could cut one into a skirt with enough width but not enough length or vice versa. 

Or I could try to piece them (or another alternate color) together....but how without the color change looking bad or noticable. 

Any ideas? Kick panels at the bottom, extra width waist band? Parti colored skirt body?

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Second skirt crisis is solved....found someone who had extra yardage of the same colour purple linen they were willing to sell and mail me. So once that gets here second skirt will go together quickly.

To fill the gap in time, I got an unrelated project cut tonight, ready to be serged this weekend, and then decided to just q&d another pair of slops. Had a "linen weave" cotton home Dec fabric roll in a nice gray. Too heavy for skirt, but felt decent for pants. Definitely akin to a canvas weight. Decided to go for the short open leg cut this time (husband calls them "Mr Smee pants").

Much like my second shirt and most of the red skirt I just ran the bulk of the seams through the machine. Which meant I went from washed uncut fabric to main build done in an evening. Tomorrow I will focus on waistband and hem, hopefully done by the weekend so I can finish unrelated project....

I feel like I might end up liking these better then my first pair, at least as far as aesthetic goes. 

 

 

[Mary Diamond]

You will certainly have a beautiful new wardrobe to show off! 

[madPete]

On 5/21/2023 at 7:05 PM, TudorSmith said:

Well all projects have been on hiatus far longer then expected due to the miniature crew mates getting sick, then getting me sick.

Getting back to it in very slow increments. I've got the pieces to the RH Slops pattern all cut out and a pile of linen, obtained in a clever trade, all pre-washes and pressed for after I've made a few prototype pairs. 

But for now, here's my latest thrift find.... It's supposedly "boho" but screamed "100% wool hat blank"ish for $10 plus shipping. 

It's a bit snug, so i will need to steam and stretch it. It's already got a grosgrain band that will probably need to get pulled out to accomplish that, but then the plan is to cock the one side et voilà.... Keep the sun off my face and look decently accurate. Pretty pleased with the find

Here's the floppy hat that started just like yours. Its stiff and holds its shape, a new linen lining and hatband with a buckle for the GF.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

We are now at panick sewing phase....

The Smee pants are done but not hemmed, or flat felled on the interior. Chances are neither if these things will happen but they are functional and look decent. Slight fraying adds a quaint charm methinks.

Got a second white shirt cut and the basting for gathering put in. Started trying to put sleeves together but forgot a gusset which I took as a sign to pack it in for the night. I'm pretty confident I can have the bulk of construction done before the event and u can work on the hand finishes on site.

A second skirt will hopefully be cut this week too. Have to prewash the fabric first though. 

I had hoped for a sleeveless waistcoat still too but as I haven't done one of those yet and I definitely don't have time to prototype, I'm sticking with the two garments I feel I can actually get done in the same time. 

The coarse linen I picked up to make a poor girl's Turkish towel is too thick to get through my machine so I'm pinking the raw edges and calling it good. This does also tell me though that my hopes of doing up a canvas haversack is also off the agenda just due to equipment failure. Maybe I will cut one or two to do by hand on site though. 

Otherwise....I feel pretty ok about what I've made/collected/acquired. Few other last minute purchases and I shall be ready to get on a plane roughly this time next week.

 

[madPete]

Your goal was a very ambitious one, and you did well executing!

[Duchess]

On 9/5/2023 at 10:32 PM, TudorSmith said:

We are now at panick sewing phase....

The Smee pants are done but not hemmed, or flat felled on the interior. Chances are neither if these things will happen but they are functional and look decent. Slight fraying adds a quaint charm methinks.

Got a second white shirt cut and the basting for gathering put in. Started trying to put sleeves together but forgot a gusset which I took as a sign to pack it in for the night. I'm pretty confident I can have the bulk of construction done before the event and u can work on the hand finishes on site.

A second skirt will hopefully be cut this week too. Have to prewash the fabric first though. 

I had hoped for a sleeveless waistcoat still too but as I haven't done one of those yet and I definitely don't have time to prototype, I'm sticking with the two garments I feel I can actually get done in the same time. 

The coarse linen I picked up to make a poor girl's Turkish towel is too thick to get through my machine so I'm pinking the raw edges and calling it good. This does also tell me though that my hopes of doing up a canvas haversack is also off the agenda just due to equipment failure. Maybe I will cut one or two to do by hand on site though. 

Otherwise....I feel pretty ok about what I've made/collected/acquired. Few other last minute purchases and I shall be ready to get on a plane roughly this time next week.

 

Please post final pics of it all for those of us who can't make the event, but have been following along!

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

I will try to get some pictures tonight before I start my final moves on washing/packing!

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

So I didn't get any pre pack photos and some of these will be posted in the event page but here's some shots of the results of effort in action for those that didn't get to see it in person.

 

Notes to self....

re-enforce seams even if it seems tedious

linen drawers wouldn't be a bad idea,

slightly heavier weight shirts might seem too hot but won't be as bad as having to wear multiple layers over the hankie weight,

custom sized stays pattern is in my future 

 

Taking a breather for a week or so, then focusing on Halloween....then will probably be back to projects come November 

[Duchess]

1 hour ago, TudorSmith said:

Taking a breather for a week or so, then focusing on Halloween....then will probably be back to projects come November 

Thanks for sharing, it all turned out great!

 

 

[madPete]

On 9/21/2023 at 2:48 PM, TudorSmith said:

So I didn't get any pre pack photos and some of these will be posted in the event page but here's some shots of the results of effort in action for those that didn't get to see it in person.

 

Notes to self....

re-enforce seams even if it seems tedious

linen drawers wouldn't be a bad idea,

slightly heavier weight shirts might seem too hot but won't be as bad as having to wear multiple layers over the hankie weight,

custom sized stays pattern is in my future 

 

Taking a breather for a week or so, then focusing on Halloween....then will probably be back to projects come November 

OK. Breather is over. Whacha working on now?

Halfpint is up to her bottleneck in shirts.

I discovered I need an extra pair of slops after lending the GF a couple pair for events. So maybe a batch of slops?

[Stynky Tudor]

Well some of us (me) are still in recovery mode - I'll head back to Utah in another week or so to drop off Mercury Camp stuffs, probably won't get back to Oregon mid/late October.

I'd like to bring my (adult 30 year old) daughters and their partners to our next event. I need to move them out of their ren garb and into proper pirate garb. That's 4 sets of waistcoats and slops at the minimum. Plus when I was on Bald Head Island, I got a couple firm hat commissions and a couple unconfirmed. So it's looking like I'm going to be busy over winter and on into spring...

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

10 hours ago, madPete said:

OK. Breather is over. Whacha working on now?

Halfpint is up to her bottleneck in shirts.

I discovered I need an extra pair of slops after lending the GF a couple pair for events. So maybe a batch of slops?

Working on planning phase for Halloween costumes....made difficult by the tiny mutineers not wanting to commit to a costume theme.....maybe I can convince them to be pirates and then at least my outfit is done lol!!!

After that, agenda is mend the slops I popped seams on, finish the hems on the last minute shirt and petticoat. 

After that is the shirt I owe Stynky then after Christmas I might take a stab at stays. I might also wait on those til I can get a custom measured pattern. We shall see....

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

1 hour ago, Stynky Tudor said:

Well some of us (me) are still in recovery mode - I'll head back to Utah in another week or so to drop off Mercury Camp stuffs, probably won't get back to Oregon mid/late October.

I'd like my to bring my (adult 30 year old) daughters and their partners to our next event. I need to move them out of their ren garb and into proper pirate garb. That's 4 sets of waistcoats and slops at the minimum. Plus when I was on Bald Head Island, I got a couple firm hat commissions and a couple unconfirmed. So it's looking like I'm going to be busy over winter and on into spring...

You have barely even STARTED recovery mode! Lol.

 

You do remind me that waistcoat needs to be on my agenda.....I like the jacket made but let's be honest did not wear it for more then five minutes......

[madPete]

Yeah, I brought a lightweight buccaneer jacket but never wore it. barely wore the sleeveless waistcoat, just too hot.

[Stynky Tudor]

37 minutes ago, TudorSmith said:

You do remind me that waistcoat needs to be on my agenda.....I like the jacket made but let's be honest did not wear it for more then five minutes.

I brought my jacket (sleeved waistcoat) and a (light) farby pirate coat. At Fort Conde, I took out the jacket to do repairs, intending to sew on lost buttons. I ended up leaving it out on a blanket with the first few attachment stitches and a mismatched button, the needle and thread still attached. But I never wore it.

At Fort Gaines, I had it hanging off my tent ridge beam or laying in my tent - it was way too hot to bother with.

For Beaufort, I didn't even bring the jacket with me, though I did wear my farby coat Saturday evening, after the majority of Ophelia had blown through.

[madPete]

On 9/27/2023 at 7:05 AM, Stynky Tudor said:

I brought my jacket (sleeved waistcoat) and a (light) farby pirate coat. At Fort Conde, I took out the jacket to do repairs, intending to sew on lost buttons. I ended up leaving it out on a blanket with the first few attachment stitches and a mismatched button, the needle and thread still attached. But I never wore it.

At Fort Gaines, I had it hanging off my tent ridge beam or laying in my tent - it was way too hot to bother with.

For Beaufort, I didn't even bring the jacket with me, though I did wear my farby coat Saturday evening, after the majority of Ophelia had blown through.

Quite the Dapper pirate there!

[madPete]

On 9/27/2023 at 6:06 AM, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

Working on planning phase for Halloween costumes....made difficult by the tiny mutineers not wanting to commit to a costume theme.....maybe I can convince them to be pirates and then at least my outfit is done lol!!!

After that, agenda is mend the slops I popped seams on, finish the hems on the last minute shirt and petticoat. 

After that is the shirt I owe Stynky then after Christmas I might take a stab at stays. I might also wait on those til I can get a custom measured pattern. We shall see....

 We're waiting til the next event is four months out to announce it.

Then you can start all over again!😁😁😁

[Tartan Jack]

I have a list longer than my arm of stuff I need to make.

3 of those are flags.

 

BUT …

I need motivation to actually MAKE any of them.

 

The colonial privateer flag (for our South Carolina Navy privateer impressions) needs to be priority one.