Making a full kit in four months

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Ahoy the ship (of craftiness!)

I am starting the process of putting together a fully functional kit to be ready for an event this fall, and I am starting almost entirely from scratch. What I have from back in my “heyday” is either too ‘disney’, too small, or long gone. I thought it might be of interest to some to chronicle this as I go – both to share ideas, and also to get advice and input.

This is going to be a combination of sewing projects, upcycling, and thrifting.

I will probably be exploring fabric options and sourcing, trying to find a balance between authenticity and convenience/expedience, and doing this all in a relatively short amount of time.

This is what I am starting with:

- Five Reconstructing History patterns. I probably do not have the skill set needed for several of these, but they are the only patterns I can find that I trust the accuracy on for this period. Plus, I’ve had them stock piled for give or take 15 years, so why buy something else when I could just . . . get better at sewing. I have the Slops and Breeches, Sailor’s Jacket, Stays, Mantua, and Bodiced Gown patterns. Obviously, heavy focus will be on the Slops, the Jacket and the stays. Fortunately I have access to a large format printer that I can make copies of the pieces I am using, so that if I skronk it up in cutting or size altering the patterns, I still have the originals, uncut. Should be invaluable for the more fitted garments that require a fair bit of tweaking. (Looking at you stays!!)

- A moderately sized fabric hoard, of varied content and usability. I have several 2 yard pieces of linen left overs from other periods I play in, that I am not sure if I will be able to use for anything (everything I am currently doing seems to be a 3 yard minimum) The larger sections I have are all either modern or incorrect types of fabric. Some “look” ok, but besides the accuracy I don’t want to be sweating bullets in a poly blend in the deep south heat and humidity.

- A black wool frock coat Made almost 20 years ago now, with the Pirates of the Caribbean knock off Simplicty pattern, so of suspect accuracy, but made with good fabric and buttons, so looks good from a distance. Still needs button holes but it’s one thing that I still have, that still mostly fits, and looks the part

- two knives, both handmade (not by me), one a specific seafaring style. Both in dire need of a good cleaning and sharpening. Will have to figure that out

- some sashes and socks

 

My “to-do” list (subject to much change) – what I think I will need to get by for five days on a beach on the Gulf. If you are following along, your mileage will vary in how much you would need to get started. This is also the #goals list. It might get pared down as I go, and I get feedback from more experienced hands on what and how much I actually need for this length of event.

 

Must haves;

- Slops (x3

- Shirts (x5)

- Petticoats (x3)

- Stays (x1)

- Light jacket (x1)

- Frock coat (x1) 

- Belt/baldrick

- Bag/haversack/satchel

- Boots/shoes (x2) 

- Socks/stockings (x5) (I have 3ish passable pairs so far)

- Sashes/scarves/coifs for covering the head.

 

Ideally would also have

- Additional slops, shirts, petticoats & socks

- A second set of stays

- A second jacket

- A Mantua or two

Accessories, camp gear, set dressing, bed roll, storage chests and flags not included in this list, but also on the agenda somewhere, maybe 

 

Specific trouble points I know or that I am expecting to encounter are mostly in sourcing as inexpensively as possible. I have some great leads on linen, just got some samples in on some linen blends I am considering, but finding tropic weight cotton that won't affect my credit score to purchase is proving tricky. If I could find somewhere to buy period correct stays that don't cost more then my first car I would probably do that rather then attempt to make them

I will post projects and finds separately as I get them, and provide what insight i can on how to put a passably PC kit together in minimum time and budget.

I'm also thrilled to get any input, suggestions or opinions anyone cares to offer along the way.

 

cheers for now!

-Merc

[Mary Diamond]

That is an impressive goal, to be sure! Be sure to scan your local thrift stores for linen and wool, even cotton for shifts and linings, as well as dimensionally stable tight-wove fabrics for mock-ups. Take your time with the RH patterns, ask a LOT of questions, and you will be just fine. Use scrap to make tiny mock-ups if you are sure about a construction method (such as pockets, etc.). Use your existing frock coat to guide you in altering patterns to create the short jacket and waistcoat.

Stays just require some patience - look at the lines of your comfortable undergarments, and use them to guide you in creating the armseye. Understand the the top cut of the tabs will ride above your hipbones, allowing the tabs to flare out. The armseye to top of hipbone dimension is what frequently can cause discomfort, so take your time with it. Making a mock-up of the stays of heavy canvas or stable tight woven material will allow you to test the fit first. Polyester ribbon (which won’t break, I assure you) can be used to spiral lace for rough fit, no sewing or cutting - just a heavy lacing needle to bring the ribbon through the fabric (an awl might help to part the weave). Assembling each panel (with all layers stitched together) as an individual will allow you to make adjustments to the fit without recreating the entire stays.

Shoes I would place as first priority, as they take so long to get in. I would forgo boots, if you are looking for a historical maritime impression (they look great, but they are ridiculously warm, not to mention expensive). A hat would also be highly recommended, as well.

Keep us posted, and remember that we are here to help if you have any questions.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

4 hours ago, Mary Diamond said:

 Take your time with the RH patterns, ask a LOT of questions, and you will be just fine. Use scrap to make tiny mock-ups if you are sure about a construction method (such as pockets, etc.). Use your existing frock coat to guide you in altering patterns to create the short jacket and waistcoat.

Stays just require some patience - look at the lines of your comfortable undergarments, and use them to guide you in creating the armseye. Understand the the top cut of the tabs will ride above your hipbones, allowing the tabs to flare out. The armseye to top of hipbone dimension is what frequently can cause discomfort, so take your time with it. Making a mock-up of the stays of heavy canvas or stable tight woven material will allow you to test the fit first. Polyester ribbon (which won’t break, I assure you) can be used to spiral lace for rough fit, no sewing or cutting - just a heavy lacing needle to bring the ribbon through the fabric (an awl might help to part the weave). Assembling each panel (with all layers stitched together) as an individual will allow you to make adjustments to the fit without recreating the entire stays.

 

Thanks for all the input but especially this! I have an advantage in that i have spent significant time wearing historic stays and corsets so i know how they are supposed to look and feel. My down fall is I'm terrible at fitted garments. I had moderate success with an RH pattern for 16th century German Renaissance but had the problem that when it came to tailoring the bodice i just couldn't seem to make it right even with a canvas version for patterning size and a muslin prototype.

I have already started cutting a canvas to get sizing right for the stays but was hard to get it closed. Great idea about the ribbon, i will try that. 

I'll be sure to post updates once i am in the throes of it.

 

4 hours ago, Mary Diamond said:

Shoes I would place as first priority, as they take so long to get in. I would forgo boots, if you are looking for a historical maritime impression (they look great, but they are ridiculously warm, not to mention expensive). A hat would also be highly recommended, as well.

 

We clearly think similarly! Shoes were the first thing I started looking for a few weeks back actually.

Footwear is the one place I am willing to be most flexible because a) it’s one of the last things people see or notice b) it’s got to accommodate my old lady orthotic arch supports and c) as always, budget. 

most anything specifically historical repro was out of the running on any combo  of b and c.

So i  went thrifting i went...found some low ankle boots (a bit higher then shoes but certainly not BOOTS)  that would be period passable at a glance.  I ended up with two pairs for what I would have spent on a single pair of generic leather renn-ish style mary janes.

Both are actual leather (admittedly not fine quality leather, but leather), neither have zippers at all. The construction of the black pair, the top fits/sits very similarly to how a standard latchet shoe would, and their sole looks really nice and the brown pair were already scuffed up enough that I wouldn’t feel bad beating them up at an outdoor camping event

Absolute score if I do say so myself

[Mary Diamond]

3 hours ago, TudorSmith said:

I have already started cutting a canvas to get sizing right for the stays but was hard to get it closed. Great idea about the ribbon, i will try that. 

Keep in mind that it is not necessary for the stays to close entirely. Having an open space allows some movement of the sides, which some feel is more comfortable, and allows flexibility with our normal weight gain and loss. You may also find additional information here, which may be of help (especially the Custom Corset Pattern Generator, if you would like to draft your own);

https://blog.americanduchess.com/2018/01/patterns-and-books-for-18th-century.html

The black shoes look like they can easily be converted to a lovely pair of latchets or ribbons/buckles (depending on your preference and requirements), and can easily be dressed up or down with a simple change of ribbon. Just remove the strap and rivet, and reduce the height of the collar.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with!

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

So, as I'm working on my first upcycle project (will post about it when it's done) I'm also comparison shopping for fabric for shirts. 

I typically buy my linens from fabric-store.com, and I've always been pleased with their products but i feel like their prices have gone up significantly in the past two years (though i guess that's everywhere and everything these days) and i need to cut budget where I can.

I recently got tipped off to dharma trading. They only carry white linen but their costs are significantly lower on linen and they presented me an option i hadn't heretofore considered...linen blends. They have a cotton blend, and a rayon blend - if it was poly at all it would be immediately eliminated as a possibility on its face. But i find rayon as one of the most comfortable fabrics on my modern clothes so i was willing to consider 

I ordered in some samples of their 100% linen, their 55% linen/45% rayon, and then some of their hemp offerings as well.

The 55% linen/45% rayon is indistinguishable from a standard handkerchief linen as far as visual texture/weave goes, and only a SLIGHTLY silkier feeling hand and SLIGHTLY drapey-er hang. 

So now I have the unenviable task of deciding if the hit to accuracy is worth getting a still visually appropriate, still comfortably breathable and wicking fabric that is seriously UNDER $5 a yard.

I do still have hopes of either finding linen that can be upcycled at thrift stores but it's an uncommon fabric around here and/or find some second hand products on reenactment buy sell trade groups. But i also know i need to get cracking on sewing some if these as they are a key item that i need several of. 

So....any experience, advice, opinion, input or critiques of using this type of blend, how it sews up or wears, of the company if anyone has experience with it, or suggestions of other linen sources to consider, i will take it all....

 

Cheers!

-Merc

[Mary Diamond]

Linen can be pricey, but is very hard wearing. If you tend to be warm bodied, you may appreciate the cooling effect. The crisp texture is hard to imitate.

I find rayon to be too delicate for my taste.

Perhaps prioritize your visible fabrics to be 100% wool, linen, silk, and revisit undergarments when budget allows. Garage sale and thrift shop bed linens can be a bargain for bulk material, and can be great for linings, undergarments, mock-ups, etc. Keep an eye out for vintage tablecloths - some great options for linen and linen look at very friendly prices.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

1 hour ago, Mary Diamond said:

Linen can be pricey, but is very hard wearing. If you tend to be warm bodied, you may appreciate the cooling effect. The crisp texture is hard to imitate.

I find rayon to be too delicate for my taste.

Perhaps prioritize your visible fabrics to be 100% wool, linen, silk, and revisit undergarments when budget allows. Garage sale and thrift shop bed linens can be a bargain for bulk material, and can be great for linings, undergarments, mock-ups, etc. Keep an eye out for vintage tablecloths - some great options for linen and linen look at very friendly prices.

The hard wearing is one of the pros in the column that i can't balance. Yes I can get the blend cheaper but if I'm going to have to replace it in half the time it's not really that much cheaper in the long run. 

The intention really is only to use it for the shirts .....the outer layers are going to be primarily to my 100% options.

 

[madPete]

I understand the allure of the blends, because they are cheaper, more available and come in more pattern choices. But I personally find blends to be stifling in the heat. Nothing breathes like 100% shirtweight linen. When you consider 2 yards for a shirt, at $12 yd versus 2 yards at $6yd, you only save $12.  I consider a $24 linen shirt to be a mighty fine deal when you stitch it yourself. And, you wont ever regret using 100% linen

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

8 hours ago, madPete said:

I understand the allure of the blends, because they are cheaper, more available and come in more pattern choices. But I personally find blends to be stifling in the heat. Nothing breathes like 100% shirtweight linen. When you consider 2 yards for a shirt, at $12 yd versus 2 yards at $6yd, you only save $12.  I consider a $24 linen shirt to be a mighty fine deal when you stitch it yourself. And, you wont ever regret using 100% linen

You and Mistress Diamond sure are talking me out of what i thought might be a cunning plan!

I know i will be happier with linen. I know it's benefits and my love for it runs deep. Knowing that it's a sure bet versus a gamble on the blend is a compelling point too. If i save the money but hate the shirt what have i actually saved.

but that $12 across five shirts (my original goal number of shirts) is fairly substantive when totalled which has been the main reason I've even considered it.

maybe i need to reevaluate my goals ..  instead of one shirt for each day (cause smell and dirt are a level of "accuracy" i do not need to reach lol), and instead sub in a plan to focus on 2 solid high quality linen shirts and figure out the way and means to hand wash them out during the time. .... Definitely worth pondering

now, excuse me while i swan drive into research on period laundry techniques lol 

 

[Mission]

22 hours ago, Mary Diamond said:

Perhaps prioritize your visible fabrics to be 100% wool, linen, silk, and revisit undergarments when budget allows.

Or never. (Period men's undergarments are absurd.)

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

22 minutes ago, Mission said:

Or never. (Period men's undergarments are absurd.)

😂 

personally though, i classify shirts as undergarments and they seem kind of non negotiable to me....lol

[Mission]

They are, in fact, considered undergarments. And I agree with everyone that those are best made of linen. It's quite comfortable and parts of the shirt are visible in both men's and women's period attire.

[madPete]

I guess I hadnt thought about the number of shirts needed for a 5 day event.  A couple of my shirts are heavier linen and will be warm for Alabama in Sept. Washing clothes and getting them dry in that humidity is tough.

If warm and humid, drenching them in water before wearing should add a cooling effect, so maybe not the problem I think it is.

regardless, I have some shirtwieght linen ready to go. The problem now is finding the ambition (oh where did you go?) to stitch up the shirts.

[Stynky Tudor]

Did someone say thrift shop? I'm sure I heard (read) someone say thrift shop.

As I realize that I can no longer sew worth beans, I actually found 6 yards for this stuff for $18...

[Mary Diamond]

Lovely! Did the the burn test hold true? Great neutral shade, and you certainly can’t beat the price.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

20 hours ago, madPete said:

I guess I hadnt thought about the number of shirts needed for a 5 day event.  A couple of my shirts are heavier linen and will be warm for Alabama in Sept. Washing clothes and getting them dry in that humidity is tough.

If warm and humid, drenching them in water before wearing should add a cooling effect, so maybe not the problem I think it is.

regardless, I have some shirtwieght linen ready to go. The problem now is finding the ambition (oh where did you go?) to stitch up the shirts.

Yeah, having five seemed like the safe option to ensure clean/dry shirts each day. Maybe three is a better compromise number, then two so that way there's one to wear, one to spare and one to wash and dry. Though to that point, a blend would probably dry even less well.

6 hours ago, Stynky Tudor said:

Did someone say thrift shop? I'm sure I heard (read) someone say thrift shop.

As I realize that I can no longer sew worth beans, I actually found 6 yards for this stuff for $18...

So jealous! My thrift shops around here  never have anything so good. Looks like a good heavier weight too.

[Stynky Tudor]

18 hours ago, Mary Diamond said:

Did the the burn test hold true?

No, I haven't done a burn test as yet, but it looked and felt right.

17 hours ago, TudorSmith said:

My thrift shops around here  never have anything so good.

I hear you, places like Goodwill and Salvation Army are horrible. They charge exonerate prices and pick through the better stuff and auction it off on eBay.

The little non-name shops are best. I've gotten most of my remnants from the local St. Vincent de Paul mission. Aside from higher quality stuff and better prices, they are literally feeding and clothing homeless peoples in need.

17 hours ago, TudorSmith said:

Looks like a good heavier weight too.

It's actually more of a light to medium weight, I initially thought I would make shirts out of it. I'll probably wrap it on a plank and have it laying on a table at Massacre Island - an example of ill gotten gains (thanks to LadyBarbossa for the idea).

Here's another linen remnant, it's about one yard by 50 or 60 inches - I think I spent about $6 or $8 on it. It's a drab gray-green - thinking I'll make a snapsack or a larger market wallet with it.

[William Brand]

On 4/29/2023 at 1:42 PM, Stynky Tudor said:

Here's another linen remnant, it's about one yard by 50 or 60 inches - I think I spent about $6 or $8 on it. It's a drab gray-green - thinking I'll make a snapsack or a larger market wallet with it.

I can't turn around without you purchasing more fabric.  You'll need to hang out a shingle for a shop soon.

[madPete]

TRying to catch up with me... Leftovers from "Slop By Chaaps".

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

On 4/29/2023 at 3:42 PM, Stynky Tudor said:

The little non-name shops are best. I've gotten most of my remnants from the local St. Vincent de Paul mission. Aside from higher quality stuff and better prices, they are literally feeding and clothing homeless peoples in need.

 

That's actually a great point. I tend to only hit up the goodwill cause it's what is right around the corner from my office, but the selections are typically poor quality and overpriced. There's a Christ child society shop I've been meaning to check out not far from me, and then just an independent thrift place across the county that i always forget about. Maybe load up the tiny crew mates and go on an adventure this weekend.

 

Otherwise, projects are trudging along. My upcycled slops would have been done if not for a "duh" on my part that required some unpicking of seams. Probably going to pull the trigger on at least enough linen for two shirts, as a mother's day present to myself, just to get cracking on the to do list, and hopefully thrift some more later. Need to pick up the pace here. 134 days to go....

[Stynky Tudor]

Good luck on your search. Aside from just looking at sewing remnants, curtains, drapes and linen table cloths are good to check out - just have to be careful about those poly blends.

I'm really kicking myself, a short while back I found a huge King size linen duvet cover for $20. I thought to myself, "No, stop. I've got enough fabric at home - more than I'm likely to ever use". After a few minutes of wandering and doing the math, I walked back to the rack, but someone had already grabbed it and was on their way to the counter.  

[madPete]

doh! hate when that happens...

[LadyBarbossa]

Good heavens! Sounds like ye have quite a project there, TudorSmith. I wish ye the best of luck. 

I'd say avoid all man-made fabrics as much as possible for the clothing. Including linen-rayon blends. Otherwise ye will be sweating like a horse after a hard, long workout. Be aware that leathers can burn the skin in the midday heat and direct sun for long periods of time. I learned that the hard way at a different type of event many years ago in South Carolina during mid-August. 

Hope ye keep us updated. 😉🏴‍☠️

 

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Well all projects have been on hiatus far longer then expected due to the miniature crew mates getting sick, then getting me sick.

Getting back to it in very slow increments. I've got the pieces to the RH Slops pattern all cut out and a pile of linen, obtained in a clever trade, all pre-washes and pressed for after I've made a few prototype pairs. 

But for now, here's my latest thrift find.... It's supposedly "boho" but screamed "100% wool hat blank"ish for $10 plus shipping. 

It's a bit snug, so i will need to steam and stretch it. It's already got a grosgrain band that will probably need to get pulled out to accomplish that, but then the plan is to cock the one side et voilà.... Keep the sun off my face and look decently accurate. Pretty pleased with the find

[Mary Diamond]

Nice find! Glad to hear you are on the mend…