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Posted

I admit, I'm more the Hollywood/fantasy/fictional pirate. A bit frilly and extravagant.

But even as a Hollywood pirate, I like the fabric at least half natural fibers and other materials/items to be close to period looking. It's obvious I won't wear anything from Hot Topics or Spencers that is some modern cheesy Pop Pirate getup. Only thing I had from Hot Topics was a ring and that's lost in Lake Michigan courtesy of m' nephew.

One can find perfectly historical fabric, too. But, unfortunately, I don't have at least $50 to $200 to spend per yard. I know the fabrics that William Booth (Hazel Dickfoss runs it with her Husband) they are as historical as historical can get. But incredibly pricy fabrics.

I, personally, don't have that kind of money to blow for something I do occassionally. Now, If I wore it every day and worked in it every day... perhaps I might invest in it.

But for now, I use other stuff.

I'm working on a few new clothing items (two waistcoats, two frock coats, one satin ruffled shirt) that are taking more time to work on cause my old sewing machine is not working properly. So, everything is being hand sewn. Grr... not fun when you haven't much time to work on it.

No, can't take my sewing machine in to get fixed. When I mean old, I mean old. It's older than I am, belonged to my late great grandma. It's one of those very old table sewing machines (the ones built into a table). So, I'll eventually look at it when I get some time available.

A fantastic pair, Patrick. My compliments. Breeches can be mighty tedious to construct.

"Tidings of the 18th Century" by Beth Gilgun is where I first learned a little more of period handsewing. There are several books out there on period attire that mention the hand sewn techniques of the day. And, honestly, despite the time it takes, handsewing I like better cause you have more control over the piece that you are working on. And it helps with one's embroidery skills. :D

~Lady B

:lol:

Tempt Fate! an' toss 't all t' Hell!"

"I'm completely innocent of whatever crime I've committed."

The one, the only,... the infamous!

Posted
I admit, I'm more the Hollywood/fantasy/fictional pirate. A bit frilly and extravagant.

But even as a Hollywood pirate, I like the fabric at least half natural fibers and other materials/items to be close to period looking. It's obvious I won't wear anything from Hot Topics or Spencers that is some modern cheesy Pop Pirate getup.

~Lady B

:lol:

im so glad to hear someone else say that.i was beginning to think i was the only here not obsessed with historical details.

my frock coat is almost done and is completely hand sewn accept for the main trim around the hem(seams dont show). everything else is by hand.

Posted

My tried and true reference for sewing are The Ladies Guide to Plain Sewing, vol 1 & 2 and then when you get into more tailoring, The Workman's Guide to Plain Sewing; Tailoring Stitches and Techniques. All three include those little tidbits that make hand sewing easier, the sort of information that you'd get from your grandmother if she was the one teaching you to sew, but in book form. I can't recommend them enough.

The thing to remember too is that hand sewing isn't relegated to historical or fantasy. Just as a machine sewn inner seam can be helpful to the historically minded, a hand worked buttonhole can be the perfect finishing touch on a Hollywood ensemble.

"If part of the goods be plundered by a pirate the proprietor or shipmaster is not entitled to any contribution." An introduction to merchandize, Robert Hamilton, 1777

Slightly Obsessed, an 18th Century reenacting blog

Posted

Lady Barbossa Says:

I admit, I'm more the Hollywood/fantasy/fictional pirate. A bit frilly and extravagant.

Black Bonnie followed with

im so glad to hear someone else say that.i was beginning to think i was the only here not obsessed with historical details.

my frock coat is almost done and is completely hand sewn accept for the main trim around the hem(seams dont show).

Of course, everyone has their opinions of stuff, but my personal take is that there is plenty of room under the pirate tent for all types; fantasty, historical and theatrical.

The historical wonks (which I claim to be a part of) are a small minority, but pretty vocal.

I think its cool though that both or you are hand stitching some pirate kit now though...

Watch out, its a slippery slope into the historical camp!

GoF

Come aboard my pirate re-enacting site

http://www.gentlemenoffortune.com/

Where you will find lots of information on building your authentic Pirate Impression!

Posted
The thing to remember too is that hand sewing isn't relegated to historical or fantasy. Just as a machine sewn inner seam can be helpful to the historically minded, a hand worked buttonhole can be the perfect finishing touch on a Hollywood ensemble.

Very true, even some hollywood costumes are finiished by hand. Even with hand sewn button holes. Crap now you got me wanting to take a crack at learning how to sew buttonholes by hand. Whoop, I'm slipping, quick someone give me a hand. Oh no, To late, ahhhhh!! (Starts to slide down the the historical slope even more. ;) )

Posted
The historical wonks (which I claim to be a part of) are a small minority, but pretty vocal.

The Historical Minority :huh:

...those minority people are always very vocal! ;)

Posted
Crap now you got me wanting to take a crack at learning how to sew buttonholes by hand.

It's really not hard, just repetitive, especially on those coats with all those buttons ;) The trick is all in the measuring. Once you know the formula for how big to make a buttonhole and how to place them, it's just a matter of turning on a movie, or an audio book & sitting down to do it. Then doing it again, and again and again!

The same thing goes for the eyelet holes on women's clothes. Although to hear me complain as I sew them you'd think it was pulling teeth :huh:

"If part of the goods be plundered by a pirate the proprietor or shipmaster is not entitled to any contribution." An introduction to merchandize, Robert Hamilton, 1777

Slightly Obsessed, an 18th Century reenacting blog

Posted

I am a complete twonk. I love doing eyelets... and buttonholes. ;)

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

Posted

You would Kass. ;) By the way what your address again? I have some stuff in need of buttonholes. :huh: Can't wait for the breeches pattern to arrive. Then maybe I'll take a shot at some hand stitched button holes.

Posted

Just because I love 'em doesn't mean I don't charge for 'em. ;)

I UPSed your pattern this morning. :huh:

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

Posted

"Twonk" dear. Different animal entirely. ;)

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

Posted
Very true, even some hollywood costumes are finiished by hand. Even with hand sewn button holes. Crap now you got me wanting to take a crack at learning how to sew buttonholes by hand. Whoop, I'm slipping, quick someone give me a hand. Oh no, To late, ahhhhh!! (Starts to slide down the the historical slope even more.  ;)   )

workedbuttonholes.jpg

This is an old set of instructions on how to from the BAR... I would also mark with chalk instead of pencil... the chalk completely disappears as you are working the buttonhole... pencil doesn't....I would switch out the cotton thread for linen or silk though and I perfer to cut the buttonhole open AFTER the stitching is done... some original pieces, such as embroidered waistcoats that have not yet been turned into finished garments, show the buttonholes not being cut but already finished... Kass can correct me here..


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

Posted
You would Kass. :huh: By the way what your address again? I have some stuff in need of buttonholes. ;)

There you go, just mail them to RH... if she's willing to take on just buttonholes on occasion, that should make you both happy. :huh:


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

Posted

Hector is correct. Extant garments that have no been finished do not have the buttonholes cut. And some that *have* been finished do not have some of the buttonholes cut -- for example the decorative buttonholes at the back and side vents on some frock coats, or even all the buttonholes on later frock coats that are held closed by hooks.

From a practical point of view, your buttonholes come out more regular if you don't cut the slit first. My buttonholes went from quite dreadful to pretty good when I stopped cutting the slit first.

To contradict the handout a bit, there are many buttonholes that have a bar tack on both ends, and others that have a "fan" on both ends, as well as this kind with one of each. So know that there is not just one way to do it.

If you want to see lovely closeups of buttonholes, Hart and North's "Fashion in Detail" shows lots of them up close and personal. :D

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

Posted

Oh I was just kidding about sending anything to Kass for button holes. I would just rather try myself and get better that way. Besides she's probably really busy to bothering with my mundane stuff. :D And I wouldn't want her to see all my mistakes. :D

Posted

here's an article on buttonhole size & placement. I think knowing where to put them and how big to make them was as intimidating as sewing them. This is geared for machine sewing, but the math is still valid. Scroll down a bit to "buttonhole placement" and be sure to check out the other pages for info on buttonhole length and button measuring.

http://sewing.about.com/library/sewnews/li...aatech0703a.htm

I always use water soluble marking pen for marking button holes. I've had trouble with chalk rubbing off in the handling when working, but never the pen. Just a mist of water (or a little spit on the finger :D ) and it's like it was never there.

"If part of the goods be plundered by a pirate the proprietor or shipmaster is not entitled to any contribution." An introduction to merchandize, Robert Hamilton, 1777

Slightly Obsessed, an 18th Century reenacting blog

Posted

There's another kind of fabric marker that doesn't even need water. It's "air soluble" and it disappears in about 24-48 hours after marking. It's purple (the water soluble ones are typically blue). These are especially useful if you're stitching with or on fibres that might alter with water (like some silks).

Bit of trivia that has nothing to do with the GAoP -- in ancient Japan, there was a derivitive of indigo used for the same purpose. It was so light sensitive that exposing it to sunlight made it fade. So it was used to mark clothing for embroidery or other types of embellishment.

Who says modern technology improves everything? Sometimes modern technology just replicates ancient technology with new materials!

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

Posted
so Greg is a wonk and you are a twonk ...what's the difference?

Oh not again...

Okay. Once more... Greg is the big guy on the left. I'm the one in the middle...

GregKassEdTORMOct06.jpg

Just joshing ya, Silkie! :D

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

Posted

yeah but some of us like to procrastinate & don't get to sewing the button holes within 48 hours of marking them!

"If part of the goods be plundered by a pirate the proprietor or shipmaster is not entitled to any contribution." An introduction to merchandize, Robert Hamilton, 1777

Slightly Obsessed, an 18th Century reenacting blog

Posted
yeah but some of us like to procrastinate & don't get to sewing the button holes within 48 hours of marking them!

Hey, you know I'm a terrible procrastinator! I just don't mark them until I'm about to pick up the needle.

And the BEST buttonholes are done on the way to the event!

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

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