Mary Diamond

To further support Michael: Nell, it really depends on the status of your character, and your characters family. If you are a more common impression, you may have a cherished heirloom tucked away somewhere ~ but it would be just that ~ carefully stored, brought out on rare occaision. The same as now ~ you may occaisionally wear your grandmothers diamond wedding ring, but not every day. And, I think the time frame for that embroidery piece may be closer to a 50 year difference ~ early 1600s. Not to mention ~ if it was your grandmothers heirloom, or trade it for a piece of bread or a nip of rum to sustain you for another 3 days ~ which would you choose?

Perfect! Thank you ~ Any detail work for clothes?

Ah, yes, Dottie Duds is up to it again...

My heart goes out to you and your family, William. My Mom has a rather uncomfortable relationship with her brother (though not anywhere similiar in sheer magnitude to your Uncle Gary), which has gradually healed somewhat to civility over the years. I can only hope the same (if not better) for your situation. You and your family will be in my thoughts and prayers.

Lady Constance ~ I wanted you to know I have started a separate thread which may interest you ~ Stays ~ It All Starts with the Right Foundation This thread shows images of GAoP period stays patterns and stays. Especially helpful are the diagrams showing boning angles, to achieve the proper cone form. If you are so inclined, you could just enlarge these images to make the pattern for your stays. Ah, and I forgot to mention earlier ~ the ivory jacquard fabric is lovely. Please let me know if I can be of any assistance.

***************************** Please Note I have started a separate thread ~ Stays ~ It All Starts with the Right Foundation This thread shows images of GAoP period stays patterns and stays. Especially helpful are the diagrams showing boning angles, to achieve the proper cone form. *****************************

From what I have seen/read/heard, front lacing stays cannot accomodate a GAoP busk. Victorian era corsets had split metal busks, with integral closures. The stomacher is usually a separate triangular piece of material, usually nicer/fancier (silk, embroidered, etc.) than the stays, pinned or laced in place. Please pay careful attention to the angle of the boning in the stays ~ vertical boning will lean towards a tube shape, angled boning will lean towards a cone shape.

Dated between 1678-1725 1715

There has been so much discussion concerning stays, and so many enthusiastic folk attempting their first, that the Captain and I thought this may be of help. These are all period patterns ~ I made stays for myself from Simplicity, Butterick, and the below patterns, and have found the GAoP patterns to be the most comfortable. Be sure to note the seam and boning placement ~ this is critical to achieving the cone form, as opposed to a tubular form. How I used these patterns ~ I measured from the center of my breastbone to just above my privates, for the busk (wooden stabilizer which completes the form ~ can also be switched out for boning or reed, for a more flexible fit). Expect anywhere from 12" - 17", depending on your frame ~ when sitting, the busk does set down between your thighs a bit. I enlarged the chosen pattern so the center dimension will fit the busk. From there, it is a matter of creating scrap canvas (or other heavy, non-stretching material) samples, which are fitted and adjusted accordingly. It is a bit time consuming, but properly fitted stays are wonderful to wear (ask me about the nasty bruises I had from a poorly fitted -my fault! I tried rushing- pair of stays some day). Please let me know if there is any way I can help ~ Similar to the base for a 1650-60 gown in Waugh, I apologize, I have no date. 1670-80 1675 1697 ~ Note front lacing, therefore no busk.

A Very Happy Birthday to you, indeed!

Well met, sir, and welcome aboard. A nip of Pirate Choice Molasses Reef, if you please.

I would be interested ~ though I would first want to see if Harry will store the poles. I haven't purchased my tent yet, so I would need to make a decision and get back to you with pole dimensions. I am located in Chicago, so I cannot help with the driving, but would be happy to contribute monetarily.

A Very Happy Birthday to you, Scuttle Sally!

Your constuction is very neatly done ~ and the "tube" shape is close to approriate for GAoP (more like a cone). ~ From a quick review, the front center top appears higher than the sides, which looks a bit odd, but might just be the camera angle? Did you go without a busk in the front, to make it a bit more flexible for cooking? ~ Vertical back boning at the eyelets will provide better support. ~ The underarm scythes, at that height, concern me. I am afraid they are going to dig in ~ which can be extremely uncomfortable, if not painful. I am unsure which other suggestions to make, without knowing the look you were going for, but hope these were helpful.

Lady Brower ~ When I first started this, I was unsure as which way (Hollywood or PC) I wanted to play. The reason you want to play (casual entertainment with an Arrr, or educational entertainment?) will have a very great deal in pointing you in the right direction for patterns. Essentially, you have 2 options if you want it to "look right" for re-enacting ~ spend a Great Deal of Time and Effort to recreate a period look by researching period and location (English differs from Spanish, Dutch, French) specific drawings and paintings; or spent $$$ up front to buy patterns that have historical research built into them. IMHO ~ if the Simplicity patterns were close enough, more re-enactors Would Be using them, instead of merely debating how to make them "close enough". It makes economic sense. I sympathize with your dilemma, as I work a mere 6 months of the year at best, and coin is quite tight for myself. I wish you the best in your decision making.

A Very Nicely Done first attempt, Lady Brower! I second the Captain's thoughts ~ the upper cut (turn) of the tab at your sides should sit right on the top of your hipbone. From there, cradle your bosom so they are slightly raised ~ the upper part of the stays should cross roughly at (or somewhat above) your personals. Once you have worn these for a full weekend, you will have a better feeling for what needs adjusting (such as the arm scythes ~ the underarm area). I personally adjusted the lower back tabs in length and width, to provide better lower back support for when I am carrying guns and such up front.

Good Evening, Island Cutter ~ I had been lurking, to observe your interpretation of a portable sea chest (as my Dad and I made my own sea chest some time back). Nicely done! My thoughts ~ you may wish to address the weight concern. The reason I would purchase a folding sea chest is so I could take it with when flying to events. At 29 pounds, that stresses the already tight weight restrictions imposed by the airlines. Paying $25 to $100 for overweight or additional baggage justifies the $60 FedEx charges for shipping my entire sea chest, assembled and full of gear. Folks driving to events generally have a little more room to play with when packing their car ~ but there are also those who have small cars (like me in my Miata), that might find this a useful item.

I originally started with the wider .5" tape, thinking that would give the nicer edge. My most recent stays, which I am the most happy with, use the narrow .25" tape, which is a much nicer finished edge, as there is not as much tape to work through the turns (which is where the problems usually were for me). I had tried pinning the entire thing, as Chole suggested ~ having gone through different trials each time, I found I didn't need to pin everything when using the narrow tape and hand stitching, (which is a huge time savings) to still achieve a neat finished edge in a reasonable amount of time. I had used the same method as Lady Constance on my second pair of stays, but still didn't like the way the tape laid, and it was a unbelievable test of patience to weave the stays back and forth through the sewing machine. It took me as long to hand sew the binding on the fourth stays as it did to pin and machine stitch the front, then hand stitch the back on the second pair of stays. Not to mention the hand sewn one looks so much better.

A very Happy Birthday to you, indeed!

I use a blind stitch for attaching the binding. When finished, the stitch is tiny, and runs at a 90 degree angle to the binding edge. Then the needle runs under the fabric at an angle to the next point, where it comes up and out of the binding, re-enters the stays, repeat ~ This might help to explain: http://www.quilterscache.com/StartQuilting...iltingfour.html Regarding what is the period way ~ not sure. I am just happy to get the stays finished at that point. I would drive myself crazy otherwise.

I know what you mean ~ It was my fourth set of stays before I had a method down for binding. Machine sewing isn't worth the time or set-up, IMHO. I now stitch by hand, one side for a length of thread, then catch up the other side with a second length of thread (back and forth, front and back). The second biggest problem was the "turns" of the tabs ~ I found it to be most consistent and attractive with only 3 stitches (shoulder, top, shoulder) for each turn, resuming normal stitching in between.

Rummaging around, talking to herself... Those Filthy DOGS will pay for what they have done to my husband... Traitorous Scum!!! Dammit, where is my primer... Oh, Pretty! Beautiful silver, scroll a ball through their hearts ~ or their heads, I care neither which...

Are you kidding?! What did he tell you?! That is was good for curing diarrhea or per chance, did he also state that a ‘health romp’ was good for the liver? But, but... I heard my husband was... oh! And I couldn't stand the thought, of those horrible... DAMNATION! Where's My GUNS? I need to go hunting ~ Captain, are you coming with?

A very Happy Birthday to you, sir!