Capt. Sterling

The gutter? .... Ahem....

Not bad...

Aye I suppose I shall do something similar... fortunately she has a good head on her shoulders, so I trust her...and then again there is nothing writ that states I must trust them that come calling...and of course she has quite a number of well armed uncles. Tis young Mr. Merriweather I already need to keep an eye on... and now back to your local station...

Ack...Let us avoid this subject for as long as possible... we were in camp down at PiP and I overheard someone mention that Sarah was starting to look "damn hot"... well was not I surprised when I noticed my first reaction was to literally reach for my sword...good thing I was not wearing one at the time...

Great and then the next question will be, is this going to be a Reel Town or a Real Town??

Wait..if I cannot live on my ship, then how come you get to live in ...that?? OI and come to think of it, how come Mission lives in a freakin tree??

Ah... I was thinking more along the lines of a plantation...outside of the city...plenty of land, peace and quiet...enough tracks for horse racing, oh and must not forget hunting...plenty of hunting...and riding...and some more hunting...

Well then.... lets me out...as I would not live in town...

Thanks for posting it here... do not get the channel and was nice to see the crewe in action, although the cameraman really needs to learn how to better frame a shot... as always...well done you lot.

Waugh makes it sound, for a more generalized version of the evolution of 18th century coats... that the side seam begins to move toward the back along with the drop in the shoulder seam after the coat has reached its fullest point circa 1740s...although the coat above circa, 1730s shows the shoulder seam already beginning to drop...although not a hand's width as of yet... The three original patterns in Waugh, circa 1680-1700 do not show an off the shoulder seam, and one is just beginning to show on the 1720s coat...however slightly. A post has gone off to the V&A to ask about their extant coats. I am also sending one off to the Manchester Galleries and the Fashion museum at Bath...hopefully we shall hear from them soon.

sorry double post

Note left shoulder top... note no visible dropped shoulder seam but note here...you can see that it is starting to drop... this buff colored coat is circa 1730s

Listening to La Musica Notturna Delle Strade di Madrid No. 6 Op. 30

Home The neighborhood

will type out the info and give you enlargements when I get home from work...will also post it in the stays thread instead

here save you a stamp

I would like to see Mission index everything....snigger....

Sorry Lady. Br. not yet, but will keep an eye out for such... and Jack... from what I am seeing, the men appear to have them attached at the waist with some sort of ribbon or slender sash... not seeing any chain yet...

Also here... http://pyracy.com/index.php?showtopic=14057&view=&hl=waistcoat&fromsearch=1 tis a thread on an original waistcoat... if you go to the photo album you can see the seam in one of the photos from the back... tis closer to the top of the shoulder than a hand's width below it

"As for using period patterns, some are good but a lot of them do not have the neck-back shoulder seam at the proper angle or at the right height. It must be cut for each person individually. None of the clothing for women or men should have a shoulder seam on top of the shoulder. Especially if it is a military coat. No seams to rub with all the gear they carried on their shoulders..Makes sense. The front continued up and over the shoulders and joined a hand width down. This fitting made that seam to fall almost on a bias and helped it to give when the arms are raised to fire a weapon." Also very much would like to disagree about the shoulder seams on the men's coats...illustrations, fashion plates, paintings more often than not show the shoulder seam to be placed if not directly on top of the shoulder, at the most only a small difference tilted toward the back... the original patterns I have worked with also have the seam situated on or extremely close to the top of the shoulder NOT drafted way toward the back of the garment, certainly not a hand's width, as was more common in the later 18th century. If it helps, the time frame many of us, but not all, deal with is approximately 1675-1730,,, And I have never had a problem firing a weapon with a coat and sleeved waistcoat based on originals with the seam closer to the top as illustrated commonly from the time frame.

Also I am not quite sure what you mean by the statement "The only picture that comes through on this thread is showing a MANTUA, with the skirts pulled back." The term mantua, as we use it for GAoP, in origin seems not to be used until 1670s when referring to the loose gown, which did not lace up the back, which a few of the illustrations, when viewing the originals, certainly show lacing up the back..

As to the terminology... we refer to the boned, separate bodice top as a bodice gown to clarify it from the actual mantuas of the time which were loose gowns, with pleated backs, sewn down or often just belted, which were not boned but worn over stays. I believe Kass MaGann coined the term

' I believe Waugh has a pattern for a jacket similar to this and a photo of an original as well... will check when home from work and post if possible

ROTDLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!