I think Kass usually recommends flat felled or french seams for the insides of linen garments, unless you are lining the garment... she also has a list included in her patterns that teaches you all the proper period stitches that were used if you do not wish to use the machine... If you can't afford all her patterns, I still highly recommend purchasing at least one for the stitching instructions alone... hmmm she should make a little booklet for sale with just that info....