Captain Jim

What, too Hollywood for you? Oh, yeah...never mind...

It has been said that there is a fool born every minute. Now, with the aid of the internet, we can reach more of them with more damn-fool ideas than ever before. The fact that there still are idiots out there willing to try this stuff must mean that they are reproducing faster than these stupid ideas can eliminate them. We must need more stupid explosive devices in order to raise the general IQ level for those of us smart enough to know that the correct ammount of powder to put in one of these things is absolutely none whatsoever...

Yes most are past our time period. Wild Imports has that bronze swivel reputed to be a copy from Roberts' Royal Fortune (ex. Onslow.) After checking their provenance on that claim, it would be in period. It's a dandy looking cannon anyway, but the price has just gone up about $300 since the last time I looked.

Here we have some future Darwin Award winners. There is just so much wrong it's impossible to start. Their only hope is that their parents see this.

We had a cannon links page earlier on the forum here: Cannon links Since you asked for opinions and such, my two pence: Full scale still covers a lot of ground, from rail guns (two to three feet long, weight about 60 to 75 punds) to 24 pounders and up (barrel only, 6 feet long, weight about 2000 pounds) so you need to consider what you will need for support. You will need a trailer for a big gun, but the smaller can be stowed in a trunk. The size of the accoutrements also goes up (far easier to store a two-foot rammer than a five footer.) So too does the appetite of the cannon. A one-inch cannon takes about 425 grains (about 1 oz) while a 3-inch cannon takes about 1750 (about 4 oz) One pound of powder supplies 16 shots for the small cannon and four shots for the large. (The examples above are for maximum blank loads, cut in half for projectile fire.) For easy transport and small support in terms of crew, supply and stowage, I would get a rail gun, and then build an L-shaped section of rail/deck to mount it on. Full authenticity in a small package. If you become addicted to cannons (and you will) upgrading to a larger can be done later as cannon don't seem to lose a lot of value in resale. But for full authenticity in a deck gun, you will need to build a gun deck and a garage to store it in...and you might as well build it as a two-gun section...with an upper deck...and three rail guns...and recruit and train 18 people to run them all...

Aye, ye put yer skull and bones up, surrounded by the words "High Jack!"

As a wildlife biologist and ecologist I have had the opportunity to handle my fair share of wild animals, especially snakes and alligators. In training people for field work I would use Steve's shows as examples of what not to do while handling wild animals. The one thing that most people don't have that Steve did was commitment: he never grabbed something with the thought in his head that he could maybe let go if things didn't work out. When he commited to jumping on a croc's back it was all the way and for keeps. Most people are tentative, and that gets them hurt. Mind you, I have the greatest respect for Steve and his gifts, but most people should not try this at home. I always thought that he would die in the jaws or claws of something large, toothy and powerful, not in a freak accident with a stingray. I too will miss him and his "training" films.

Don't ye know that all good horses and good dogs go to heaven, and if we turn out to be half the people that they thought we were, we'll see them again. Condolences, mate.

To age a hat, simply think about what can happen to your character and his hat. Two biggies are salt and oil from sweat. While this can be faked with salt water and a small ammount of veggie oil, the best is to go out and mow the lawn/jog/muck out stables, etc while wearing the hat. To fake it, just pour some salt water in a pan large enough to contain your hat and soak just the bottom part. A cookie sheet will do, as it does not need to be deep. Air dry and use a paper towel to artfully dab/rub some oil in the same area, especially in the front. the same sort of thing can be used for sun bleaching, except that you can leave the hat out in the sun without your head inside. Leave it on the dashboard of your car. It will make passersby wonder about you, but then they probably do anyway. Next use sandpaper, drills, knives and whatever else comes to mind to "distress" the rest, creating knife gouges, bullet holes, burn marks and wear patterns. Don't go overboard here or you'll end up with something out of a cartoon. Where do you grab you hat when you take it off? Sandpaper that. Fire a flint musket? Scorch a little of the cocked part in front. Be creative. Have fun.

My archeological misgivings have been allayed. Grind and polish away.

There was a thread on this earlier. Try here:Shackle thread

I've seen that picture before, but I always fail to compliment the photographer on catching that muzzle blast. Not easy to do.

You can always spot a cook... And since Sacagawea Dollars are 88.5% copper...

There is another thread about where pyrates stowed their weapons in which we touch on this. Short answer is that it is generally thought that pyrates were in charge of their own weapons and therefore had either what they wanted and could purchase or whatever they could get during a raid. If the target was a military ship, the armaments taken would likely be all the same. Then the next time the target could be a ship loaded with trade goods including swords, perhaps some intended for the upper crust. This is, of course, speculative. The question is best answered by examining those swords found on extant wrecks and in inventories. And over to Captain Twill we go...

There ye have a wench on the cannon called "Original Cyn" an' ye won't spare her a round o' grape for the Padre? 'Tis a deplorable state I find Pyrates in these days...

Dorian, in that second picture, are you shooting at a monk (in the distance)?

Last one to the airport drives...as the rest will be in the bar "getting into character"...

Smartass... The hole is actually free...It's the stitching around it that gives the elves problems.

Belay that rust removal! How old are these swords? How did they come to be "stumbled accross" in the field? If there is any historical signifigance to these blades then conservation rather than restoration is in order. If they were left by wayward youth, then proceed, grind and polish to your heart's content. Just be sure of what you have before you proceed.

At first I thought I had misread the thread's creator...Foxe starting a boot thread? Must be some huge new discovery! But noooo...just another bait-and-switch come-on by some slick historian. Bad Foxe, no chicken! BTW, I read about your sex change in the seafaring clothing thread. Interesting move...

I must protest the use of "spiced" rum in the Grogtini: I doubt that the admiralty issued spiced rum. I will try this recipe using Mount Gay Eclipse and report back. BOILING LIQUOR! AAGGHHH! The first thing to go is the alcohol, which boils at a much lower temp than water. You will end up with a non-alcoholic pirate beverage. Not good, no, not good. Or to paraphrase a certain popular pirate: "But why is the alcohol gone?"

Tha would be Mount Gay Barbados Eclipse, one of the finest rhums under the heavens.

You keep on teaching and I'll keep on learning. Just remember to put the cat away. Coachwhipping next? Oh, and thanks for all you've done so far. Come down to Key West for Pirates in Paradise and I'll buy you a real rhum, not one of these digital ones. And fill out yer bio for us so we can tell where you come from: you might be in the vicinity of one o' us scoundrels.

I can hear the rest of the crew now: "No wonder he's dead, what a s**t-fer-brains pyrate he was."

Speaking of which, when are you going to get a web site and sell your wares?