Tudor MercWench Smith

Love the reinforcement stitches! I was not brave enough to try them on mine, and just stuck with the reinforcement patches. Waistcoat looks great too.did you use a particular pattern?

Being the youngest in a family of nerds sometimes pays off lol

Acquired. Couldnt say from where originally. My sister purchased it when she was playing a writer character at her local Renaissance faire. She ended up never using it and is thinning out her stash of stuff.

Still flat-felling interior seams on the shirt before cutting fabric for a jacket so nothing overly photo worthy in the project progress but here, enjoy some photos of a recent, lovely but highly unnecessary addition to my kit.... Portable desk for all my Steward-ing purposes. Depending on how much room left in my luggage it will probably travel with me. A lovely hand me down from my sister.

Oohh....i will have to check that out. I used her pirate shirt video, with some other adaptations as cross reference in the original making so this new video might also provide insight. Ive made the very executive decision that while it's probably sitting an inch or two too long still even from accurate fit (I'd say about an inch or so below armpit level) it's not worth pulling them out to redo them. They will be mostly covered by jacket sleeves etc and I'd rather just move on to my second shirt and know to adjust accordingly on that one.

They were a bit excessive.... almost down to my elbows. Taking in the collar did raise it up about an inch, but could probably raise up another inch and still be appropriately below the shoulder. Trying to decide if that inch is worth the seam ripping and restitching, especially when i could just shrug it off and say that it's a shirt i "borrowed" off a man with broader shoulders then mine so obviously the fit isn't perfect lol Otherwise i tried on the slops, shirts, stays and wool coat together and .....it works. It definitely works!

So the shirt has pretty much all of its major construction done. Sleeves went on yesterday. Gathers came in nicely and gussets sat in the seams perfectly. Only problem is the shoulder is sitting way to low arm. I know its supposed to come past the shoulder point a bit, but I'm sitting about only three inches above the elbow, which in turn makes the gathered arms look like weird elbow puffs, and pulls the gusset too far away from the body. I had intentionally given myself additional width in the body so that it would have plenty of room through the chest and waist, but didn't think it would throw the shoulders that far off kilter. I'm going to get the collar on before i panic and seam rip the sleeves off and the sides open it take it in though. I feel the gathering into the collar will pull the shoulder/sleeves up at least an inch or two - i know when i did a 16th cent smocked German hemd, when i gathered and smocked the collar, it pulled the sleeves up so much they ended up being 3/4 length. These are cut longer to start, and will be less intensely gathered, so should pull that much, but i feel like expecting some rise on it is reasonable.

Good to know! I did the sides up on lunch today just to keep moving along and following directions but i will definitely give it a try that way on the next shirt. I've noticed the same about any stripped or checked linen. Burnley & Trowbridge has some nice patterns right now though if not a terrible price, but their stock often seems hit or miss with what's available

That is a great checked pattern! Just enough visual interest without being too busy. Out of curiosity, once your sleeves are done, do you attach them to the body before or after you seam up the sides of the body. All my instructions are saying do you the sides first then the sleeves, but my brain keeps telling me to leave the sides open, put the sleeves on then close it up.

Honestly, with how long it's been in dev, i wouldn't be surprised if you did beta it years ago...the wait has been interminable! But they've got another closed beta coming up, and pre-orders live on the website so maybe the wait is finally at an end, even though release date is only as specific as "2023" I love the concept and art of AC, but I'm a slightly sophisticated button masher, so stealth games are not ideal for me. I only ever played black flag to completion and that was only just barely so i could level up and unlock more ships.

Shirt update....we have sleeves. Pretty pleased with how they look. Things I've learned in this project so far: 1) gussets are actually less awful to put in by hand. Who knew!?! 2) actually taking the time to put in a decent gather really elevates everything about a project and I'm so glad i took the time to learn how to do it efficiently. These things actually look like some decent sleeves and I'm a big fan. 3)flat felling seams is oddly cathartic, keeps your insides tidy and just adds a level of je ne sais quoi to the overall aesthetic of a project. 10 out of 10 would recommend. Up next is sleeves to body, body to collar and then finishing touches like reinforcement patches at all slits, then a final hem. Not sure exactly what order though. After the shirt is done, I'll move onto a jacket. After which, i will officially have a full set of clothes. For all our sakes though, i will then repeat the process, only hopefully faster.

Pulled the trigger on purchasing stays from Samson yesterday afternoon, around 2:30 pm and they are already here!! (Please excuse the woefully un-period shirt that it was tried on over, and the terrible bathroom selfies) Did end up with the front lacing for ease, and because while I'm not a fan of the buttery yellow, it was better then pristine white and was linen. I ended up not asking to get them without the grommets because i wanted them to be returnable if they didnt fit, and i wouldn't really know of they did or didn't till i could lace them up. Quality is absurdly excellent. Stitching is beautiful, everything is neat. They call them "half-boned", which was doing me a concern, but there are about 25-30 steel boned in them, not counting the stomacher, which i feel is pretty full. Fit is as perfect as you can hope to get with ready made, standardized sizing. Only complaints on fit is, if it were custom, I'd want them nipped in on the sides under the arms, as my ribcage is ridiculously tiny compared to all my other measurements. I've got a few inches till closed, which looks perfect with the stomacher and also means if weight fluctuates at all I've got some room either war. Stylistically i would prefer slightly longer tabs, but oh well, built in bum rolls lol! How they sit and fit is similar enough to the old Elizabethen style stays i used to wear waaaay back in the day that I'm confident i will be fine comfort-wise wearing them all day. All in all....this has given me absolute peace of mind. I will have foundation garments that fit, suit, are accurate-adjacent, and that will not nice, not sloppy, poorly fit or constructed. I was having nightmares about looking like the dweeb in the lopsided, too long, too loose and unsupportive stays. If i get the rest of my sewing done, i might revisit making a second pair, but for now the stress I'd off and i can just enjoy my other projects. Speaking of, shirt pieces are all cut. Tried thread pulling to get those perfectly straight lines but I'd probably rather spend the time plucking out my hair, it would be less painfully tedious. Neck opening has been hemmed down, currently working on hand sewing in the sleeve gussets. Have i mentioned I *hate* sewing gussets...

So I've been giddily excited for this game for years - am possibly the only person in the world who played AC: Black Flag FOR the sailing and nautical combat rather then in spite of so a game built specifically on those mechanics sounds delightful to me. But then just found this gem of a trailer with a "shanty" they had written just for the game, that is hands down an absolute bop. Any other games pirates frothing at the mouth for this to come out already around here?

I'm working off similar "patterns". Do you find the neck gussets to be necessary? I've seen some without buy I'm not convinced one way or another on them. They seem an extra step to me

I feel like adding it helped with the overall structure too.. where the seam was meeting the gap on the waistband just kind of sat funny and looked a bit janky and not overly securely sewn. This definitely makes it sit better, look more finished and tightened everything up.

Omg! That would look fantastic wouldn't it!!?? Might be too ambitious to get done for September which I'm really just focusing on the basics for,but afterwards.....goodness knows there is enough fabric on the roll to do several!! I'm going to cut off a chunk of it, and of a similar black roll that i didn't take, and wash them up to see if the hand softens at all that they could be functional slops. As is, it's very stiff - like full on duck cloth feel. Barring that, definitely thought snap sack and interlining as well. Didn't think cargo bale though. Or made up to look like a stack of sails perhaps? Eventual day shade perhaps?

I went a'plundering today. 🏴‍☠️ Background....my husband works for/runs a company that makes and sells RenFaire costuming. He works primarily in their leather shop, but there is a fabric side too. This of course means i have little to no quality leather accessories for my kit because....well, the cobblers son has no shoes. But it does give me access to materials and occasional long-abandoned prototypes. I scored this satchel today. It looks more western then anything actually period, and I'm hoping to find a way to hide, if not entirely remove the zipper on the front pouch and i rather hate the color...But a Steward needs a bag of some sort to carry around notes, ledgers, maps, etc when on shore and you can't argue with the price of FREE! But the better treasure from the evening was this bounty.... Fabric side of the business was finally after years addressing the overly large fabric stash and all these rolls were either earmarked as trash or "make me an offer". None of them are perfectly ideal....all however are at least majority cotton (rare finds in a pile of poly/nylon/acrylic nightmares) and could function quite well for remaining projects. Close ups.... Lightweight, two layer, cotton (almost handkerchief weight if it wasn't doubled). Maybe some decent/passable shirts that won't be quite as comfy as linen but would give some variety to plain white. Maybe could do a pair of pants out of it. They'd be a little too light but would probably be comfy. Double faced, heavier weight, but with almost silky feel, making me suspect not 100% cotton, but it burned pretty well that it's gotta be majority so. The cream color looks a bit dingey and the mystery content gives me doubts on breathability but a pair of stripped slops would again, be a nice reprieve from plain natural linen in color. Not sure lavender stripes are overly period or piratical but sometimes a girl just wants to look pretty while leading a boarding party. Similar aesthetic to the last but tagged as 100% cotton Essex. Probably to heavy to make comfortable pants. But maybe a jacket or waistcoat. Definitely a bag for my camp mat to make it look more ye old matress-y. This is my fave find for the night though. Heavy cotton but a more homespun, almost dobby-like lose weave, in a lovely nautical blue. Should make a great sailors jacket. Definitely cotton. Definitely canvas. Not sure of treated or coated with anything. Kind of a wonky hand. Might not use it for anything other then patterning, prototypes and interlining, but it was earmarked for the trash otherwise. Save me buying butcher paper and bed sheets for the process. And all of these roles are full, or at least like 3/4 full. So more yardage then i could hope to get through and all basically for free!! Otherwise no real project updates. O did get my linen cut for my shirts after ironing out some process kinks with my prototype. Did also extend the back opening on my finished trousers, just a little bit, and have been flat felling my interior seams to reduce fraying when i only have time/space for hand sewing.... Well, a cup of tea and more sewing awaits me....

Good idea on the eyelets! It couldn't hurt to ask and would certainly take away one of the downsides. The front closing do come standard with stomacher, so that is definitely a pro. It's also linen exterior instead.of cotton. I used to be able to back lace myself but i fear those days might be behind me. So, those all seem like deciding factors. In other news, started a prototype on my first shirt. I have done about a half dozen various periods and styles of tunics which aren't all that different but every time I have to do the measurement thing i trip all over myself. Also gussets are pure evil lol Thanks again for all the encouragement. For sure needed it after a hard prototype

Oh i know! The cross lacing is one of my biggest pet peeves about them! I can get over the tabs being a little shorter, the back being a little lower and the straps further up on the shoulders, i can even forgive the use of cotton....but cross laced??? The horrors! Lol My concerns are entirely the fitting. Construction wise itself i have no concerns. So looking into getting a custom pattern is a pretty good option (i know there are arc drafting tutorials out there but that is soooo far out of my wheel house....math and spacial relations are just not it for me). If i can cut it out, maaaaybe make some minor fit tweaks, and slap it together, I'm there but that is my limit. I have eyes up the AD pattern....also slightly oop too but not too bad and i did here they go together pretty easily. My only reason for not pursuing that path was all the scuttlebutt on the historical sewing and stays groups I've lurked in is that they are incredibly short waisted, which i am not, so once again would be a level of pattern adjustment/tailoring that I'm just not equipped for. The other upside of purchasing ready made for me, is that frees up project time so i don't overwhelm myself and can just focus on what I'm confident on and it that i truly need to get done as well. And as you said, having a set would then help me as a guide when i do revisit making my own. I've spent a large amount of time both wearing and selling mass produced historical "corsets" (mostly victorian but some Elizabethen) so i feel pretty confident in getting correct measurements and checking for correct fit and exchanging it if it's not a good. I don't play when it comes to appropriate fit. Ive seen kids *actually* get injured off poorly made and fitting bodices at RenFaires and it's one of my biggest soap boxes. But the real question really is ....the back or front lacing? Any opinions? I keep waffling. And thank you for the encouragement. It, along with my slops results and the possibility that i will have a decent set of stays has put the wind back in my sails to get this all done!!

Oh good tip! Wasn't sure how far it should open so erred on the side of high cause it's easier to open them then it is to reclose them. Will have to go back in and do this once i get the other stuff done

First pair of slops functionally finished!! I could have shopped around better for buttons but liked these wooden ones from JoAnns well enough so i picked them up with a coupon. Learned a new technique for gathering into the waistband and was pretty pleased with the results. Fit is good, they are delightful comfortable (could live in them) and i think the overall look is good. After I finish the eyelets in the back waistband and cleaning up some raw interior edges it will be on to shirts next. Overall though, i found the pattern way easier then i had prepared for. As previously discussed, maybe the style i picked (trousers over breeches) made it less fussy to fit. In other news....i think i am going to pull the trigger and just purchase a set of stays. I keep looking at the pattern and dreading it so that's never a good thing. I've been eyeing up the ones on offer from Samson historical....a bit out of period but not by much, still similar shape and style, and without having to lay out for a custom order. I just have to decide what style to pick next. Onwards onto the next project i guess...

Noted! Excellent reference link too thanks! The pleats were more laziness on my part. I did gathers on one section but wanted to get it done and the cotton i was using was being a pain to gather. Hopefully the linen will be less fussy. I got it all cut and main body assembled last night so it's fly and waistband tonight so we shall see how it goes.

Soooo.... macaroni prototype is done with moderately successful results. Factoring in the slightly substandard fabric used for the test run, the fact that i was playing a bit fast and loose with my handstitching, and that i forgot to put in the button fly....they look pretty decent. I mean, not particularly flattering....but fit and style looks "right". No serious fit issues, could probably get by with no gusset, seat is loose and comfy, though front might be a touch too baggy because of it. Waistband was a bit skronky but that's mostly due to me having to recut it last minute. Will probably go back in and put the fly in to practice button holes, in between cutting and assembling the main body of my good fabric pair. cutting good fabric tonight while my linen for my shirts gets it prewash treatment. behold my mountain of shirt weight white linen!

Thank you! I've always been pretty proud of them. Both pretty but also highly functional. Both purchased directly from the blacksmiths, one of whom has since passed away so I'm glad to have at least a small piece of his work. The twist handle one is particularly sentimental though because i bought it as a matched pair for me and my now-husband. I will have to get his out too soon to give it a clean and oil. I was told at the time by the smith that it was based on an historical nautical style knife, but I've yet to find any documentation on that. . .

So before the long weekend i set these to soak in the Evaporust, the railroad spike sat for about 4 hours, the curved blade antler handle about 30 minutes. Both turned out excellent, and were oiled as soon as they were rinsed and air-dried for a bit. They then sat for the better part of a week, and had none of the re-rusting that i had before. Rather surprisingly, the edge on the railroad spike has held pretty well since it was last sharpened years ago. Still will be looking into sharpening options in the near future though for it and the curved blade. Figuring out long term storage is the next process. I'm wondering if wrapping them in some linen scraps and then an airtight box might be suitable to keep the moisture from getting to them