madPete

Good for you, I dont think its worth all the seam ripping and restitching. Many times they did have ill-fitting clothing cause... where do you get a fitted shirt in the middle of the sea?

Shoulder seams are typically below the shoulder on this style shirt. Depending on how you do the collar, a large slit with reinforcements will bunch up the material and pull the shoulders up a little. But thats generally they way they fit unless you went way overboard on the width.

I attach them first, being careful to start them on center of shoulder. Then I finish the sides. then the neck opening and collar This material was really hard to find (actually anything 100% linen and checked). It was expensive when I bought it several years ago, but seems like a deal today. I really like this material. and my shirts dont all look the same then.

I'm just finishing up a couple sleeves of different fabric.

You've probably got $500 worth of wool there. at $40yd, thats why i didnt offer wool in the shop, very few wanted to pay those prices. the few that did, I just had them send me the wool they wanted the coat made from. I found a few deals years ago on ebay, but you just dont see them anymore.

Looks top notch!

wow - you are lucky to find Wool at $10 a yard, much less on a bolt!

Thanks Michael! yeah, one of my patterns has tapered sleeves, I have not tried that yet. I've been keeping the cuffs at 1 inch and generally mix up the collars between either a short band collar or a 1-1/2" collar that folds a bit. I'm guessing making a wider neck slit will force the issue on more gathers and also pull the shoulders up a bit closer. I may try that on the next one. Aiming to get 2 shirts done for Long Beach and another 2 for September. But this is the first stitching I've done since closing "slops by chaaps", almost 2 years ago.

good point - we will be at Long Beach Pirate fest on that date. Need to make mention of that.

I'm sure it much better than White Pyrates sausage!

wow! glad it wasnt disaster. Many years back i used Thompsons water seal with some success. But during Covid, I tried it again and the fabric would not dry out. it just stayed very oily. I guess they changed the formula.

LOL. I use to hate attaching sleeves to coat bodies. Did so many it didnt bother me anymore. but the old consternation on the shirt sleeves came back briefly. Looks like you have jumped in the deep end of the pool and made a splash. Good for you!

I think its mostly a matter of authenticity. For a working sailor it might be a necessity for a shirt to last. Previously I just used a pattern with a round cutout. Never had a problem with those, but the material was also heavier than shirtweight. This last shirt I'm working on I added the neck gussets. Partially, because I thought I was getting extra material for gathers around the neck, not so much. It's really a small amount of work for the gussets.

I started two shirts during Covid and just never got back to them. Then it became a matter of dread starting on them again, not sure why, other than maybe I was just burned out making clothes for the shop. With upcoming events in July and Alabama later in the year, the need was pressing for a couple extra shirts. Two "shirts on the square" were cut out and I had gotten as far as building the sleeves and adding the cuffs. Attaching sleeves was next and never my favorite part, but I finally started on them again. Sleeves attached, now to cut the neck opening and add the collar. Still needs the bottom hemmed, buttons/button holes, and the collar opening finished after attaching collar. but I'm realizing it was mostly in my head now that I've started on them again. The fabric is shirtweight linen with checks about 1/4 inch. It's hard to come by, but I bought a few yards of this and they are turning out quite nice. I have some more fabric with a 1 inch windowpane pattern that I want to make a shirt out of as well. This fabric runs about $23 yd and it takes 2 yds per shirt. Add several hours of labor/finishing and they become a labor of love. It's not hard to see why Js Townsend charges $130 for a linen shirt. The pattern I attached is very similar to the one I'm using. It was more convenient because it has measurements on the squares. I've made at least 6 shirts in the past with this pattern/or very similar pattern. The shirts I have now are a bit heavier material than shirtweight, so I was looking for something as cool as possible for Alabama humidity.

Well, thats one less fate we need to worry about on the battlefield! 🙂

Nice!

Thanks Michael! I feel Mission's pain. shipping is out of sight on large items like that chest. We will have to ship some things to the event, cause its just too much for suitcases. but at least its smaller stuff

some breeches come with a flap inside to cover the opening when its fully stretched. dont know how authentic that is, but better than having issues.

You might want to extend the opening slightly lower, so they dont tear out. with your shirt tucked in there are no vanity issues...

OK then. LIGHTS OUT! 😉