Cannibal Chrispy

grab

happy

After re reading the discription of your crack you may want to wrap the barrel in wax paper, foil or painters blue tape and put it in place before clamping, so your barrel channel does not end up tighter than it should be and splitting the crack back open when you install the barrel. This may be what caused the crack in the first place, without seeing it, it is hard to say. A photo would be most helpful in answering this question

As for your crack, I would have repaired the crack before removing the original finish with a stripper, due to the fact that you now have misc. residue in the crack and open wood around it, so lets deal with that first, work several drops of stripper into crack , give it time to soften whatever residue is in it, add a little more stripper, and squeeze crack together, a vise or clamp can be used but dont get carried away. this should squeeze out most of the residue and form that which is remaining to the shape of the crack. Remove from vise/clamp and let the stripper evaporate. Once it is dry take warm water and drip a few drops into the crack work the crack closed a couple of times' you want the inside of the crack to be wet, not dripping but wetter than moist. Than using Tightbond II weatherproof wood glue, if the crack is more than 1 inch deep into the wood "not length of crack but depth" thin glue 50/50 with warm water and work into crack, then work unthinned glue into crack. If less than 1 in. deep work unthinned glue into crack and clamp shut. clamping the pistol stock is the hard part as sometimes the odd shape makes it tough to apply pressure where you want it, do not overtighten and squeeze all the glue out, tighten until crack closes, remove excess glue and let dry. You shouldn't need any dove tails or "heaven forbid" staples. On a footnote if you plan to stain it, do it after removing residue, but before the crack repair as the open wood around the crack will absorb the glue and take stain differently.

pout

cabs

huts

that girl

If you liked bone island in the springtime, you should see it in the winter when the pirates are in bloom! NUTS.......everywhere lol

lmao lmao

fun girl

back to Patrick HAND GentlemanScotty, I didn't yell at ya, just trying to save you from the scolding I got several pages back. make that GUNS

A pittance to pay for shippin n handlin and they throw in the cat wranglin free! You'll not find a better bargain! And I promise no more ultra 3D cards.

sunk

Although I am a flintlock owner and experienced shooter. I have modified, but never antiqued a gun. However, I have antiqued a few guitars (guitars911.com) and I find the two to be extremely similar in most mechanical respects. To remove the "shiny" finish off chrome, steel, nickel, brass or to remove gold plating entirely, I would suspend the clean part in a sealed container "a jar, plastic jug, 5 gal. bucket w/lid, depending on part size" with muriatic acid in the bottom "available at any swimming pool supply", just an inch in the bottom of container, NOT dipping said part into the acid! The fumes do all the work. in 5 to 10 minutes you should begin to see results. This process should be done outdoors and not be left unattended! It should not take more than 30 to 45 min. MAX!!! rinse with water, repeat if necessary, dry thoroughly, oil lightly, and carry on. This will leave you with a smooth, nicely weathered, dull grey look, without changing the shape of said part or the smoothness of the finish, where sanding or steel wool "albeit lightly" will. I did do this with a knife where I brushed on the acid and got the desired results, but where the acid pooled the finish was darker, for a more even finish I recommend suspension. It should also be noted that said part should have as little contact with whatever you use to suspend it as possible, for instance I usually use a bent coat hangar, if you tie string around it there will be a dark line where the string touches the part. If you don't get the look your lookin for, then break out the steel wool for that "brushed" look, but I would try this first. This process is for individual "Single parts" NOT for mechanical assemblies DO NOT DO THIS TO THE WHOLE LOCK!

You look fantastic sir. Now, is the black eye the oderless one? No offense intended, just checkin the facts.

I do like your Rocket J. Squirrel quote. For what must shurely be a squirrelly water rocket of sorts. And thanks for the photos of the antique "mess" kits. lol

high pressure hoses

bank

All in favor say AYE! say it.......SAY IT!!!!

Well then, I guess they do save the best for last! Thanks again to everyone! Now, has anyone seen Silkie? (wink...wink)

No can do, Lady Cassandra will digitally whack your little fingers with her sword if you don't read and follow the SCRABBLE rules! lol! SAND

sand

C'mon, you know you want to vote for it. And here is why!http://www.callahandigitalart.com/photocar...viewImage=19491

I had a fantastic birthday saturday complete with a homemade red velvet cake in the shape of a skull made for me by Bawdy Bee. Captain Spike and me crew took me out for an excellent dinner, and then we closed the Rum Barrel I tried several of their exotic rums "I just wish I could remember which ones" and passed out in classic Key West pirate style. Sunday we had an awesome gig, we were the pirate crew on the Adirondack II for a small private party, It was a picture perfect day for sailing right down to dolphins swimming and jumping by the boat. After that Rusty and I hopped on the ferry for a smooth ride home. Many Thanks to all me well wishers, an best wishes back at ya! Oh yea! Someone here could have told me I was in Pyrates magazine this issue, but I guess it was cooler to find out on my birthday! LOOKIT MEEE, LOOKIT MEEE! LOL! Yea, Yea I know ye gots ta squint but tis better than nothin.