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Stays ~


Mary Diamond

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

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One thing I plan on changing in the future, is to make them a little smaller so I will have a nice 2" gap when they are laced.

Should the straps in back be narrower? They felt very comfortable but in the pic they look very wide.

stays004.jpg

Edited by Haunting Lily

If you're gonna give me a headache, please bring me an aspirin!

http://www.forttaylorpyrates.com/

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Thanks Kate. I had thought about making the back look more like the Waugh pattern but I really liked this width. With all my back issues, the support on my lower back felt great. Especially after being on my feet all day.

Edited by Haunting Lily

If you're gonna give me a headache, please bring me an aspirin!

http://www.forttaylorpyrates.com/

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Mother Rose,

Have you found any evidence on combinding cane and bone (whale) together in one corset. Any chance would/could it have been for the late 17/early 18th century?

Grrrrrr... I had typed a long response, was distracted by a phone call and then the computer froze and I lost the post. So frustrating. I am way to tired to go that into detail again so here is the short answer:

No.... (insert routine disclaimer about my not knowing everything... having personally examined only about 30 or so antique 18th cen stays...and who is to say with any absolute certainty what was or was not).

I say no because I have not yet seen or heard of a stay of the period (or any period) which uses cane/reed as well as baleen. I am sure somewhere out there is an exception, there always is something. But it makes no sense for it to have been a preference or deliberate choice to combine cane/reed with baleen or to even choose use of cane/reed over baleen.

All staymakers used baleen. It was common and accessible to most. (confirmations or corrections from any out there with historical knowledge of the whaling industry are encouraged.) From my research to date all the 18th cen stays I have personally examined were boned with baleen. You find occasional additions of carved wood, shaped metal or carved bone all usually used to encourage or reinforce some exageration of silhouette (such as the ridge sometimes found on the center front or the extra roundness of later 18th cen stays' busts).

It seems to me that reed/cane would be used by someone who could not get or afford baleen in their stay. This would probably be someone living far from any main urban locations. Probably someone who has to make her own stay and had to pick the grass in the field to use as she could afford nothing more, not even a previously owned stay. But maybe ...just maybe she did purchase or inherit a used stay and needed to replace a bone or five? Perhaps there is no local town to get a bit of baleen from the staymaker for repairs. Perhaps that poor country lass might stuff some reed into the channels of her old baleen boned stay out of desperation? So I guess it is ...possible.... but not likely. (in my opinion... ;-)

Lara

Lara

aka - Rose

www.LaraCorsets.com

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All staymakers used baleen. It was common and accessible to most. (confirmations or corrections from any out there with historical knowledge of the whaling industry are encouraged.) From my research to date all the 18th cen stays I have personally examined were boned with baleen.

Mother Rose ~

Is there any chance you might have a width dimension for the baleen? I would be most obliged for any images on stays boned with baleen.

YHS,

MD

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... she will now be making stays for the rest of the females in the crewe...*snigger*

Oohh... lovely. :)

Perhaps have her make stays for those of other crews. :::absolutely dreading having to make another pair of stays :( ::::

~Lady B

Tempt Fate! an' toss 't all t' Hell!"

"I'm completely innocent of whatever crime I've committed."

The one, the only,... the infamous!

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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All staymakers used baleen. It was common and accessible to most. (confirmations or corrections from any out there with historical knowledge of the whaling industry are encouraged.) From my research to date all the 18th cen stays I have personally examined were boned with baleen.

Mother Rose ~

Is there any chance you might have a width dimension for the baleen? I would be most obliged for any images on stays boned with baleen.

YHS,

MD

The sizes varied greatly since the staymaker cut each frond by hand. I did a whole pasta comparison in another post but do not know how to link to it. I have seen huge wide chunks as large as 15mm wide and 3mm thick on occasion but most common are the finer slivers averaging between 2-5mm wide and 1-2 mm thick.

As for photos I am sure I can find some where I can zoom in enough to see the baleen poking through. I do find it so interesting how many shades of beige to dark brown baleen comes in. Give me a bit of time to get photos.

Lara

aka - Rose

www.LaraCorsets.com

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No.... (insert routine disclaimer about my not knowing everything... having personally examined only about 30 or so antique 18th cen stays...and who is to say with any absolute certainty what was or was not).

I say no because I have not yet seen or heard of a stay of the period (or any period) which uses cane/reed as well as baleen. I am sure somewhere out there is an exception, there always is something. But it makes no sense for it to have been a preference or deliberate choice to combine cane/reed with baleen or to even choose use of cane/reed over baleen.

All staymakers used baleen. It was common and accessible to most. (confirmations or corrections from any out there with historical knowledge of the whaling industry are encouraged.) From my research to date all the 18th cen stays I have personally examined were boned with baleen. You find occasional additions of carved wood, shaped metal or carved bone all usually used to encourage or reinforce some exageration of silhouette (such as the ridge sometimes found on the center front or the extra roundness of later 18th cen stays' busts).

It seems to me that reed/cane would be used by someone who could not get or afford baleen in their stay. This would probably be someone living far from any main urban locations. Probably someone who has to make her own stay and had to pick the grass in the field to use as she could afford nothing more, not even a previously owned stay. But maybe ...just maybe she did purchase or inherit a used stay and needed to replace a bone or five? Perhaps there is no local town to get a bit of baleen from the staymaker for repairs. Perhaps that poor country lass might stuff some reed into the channels of her old baleen boned stay out of desperation? So I guess it is ...possible.... but not likely. (in my opinion... ;-) Lara

Thank you Muther... :D

photo-2975.jpg?__rand=0.71617700+1286403
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I guess I'm a glutton for punishment, cause I'm making another pair of stays. This time around, I'm using burgundy wool. First I had to modify my pattern a little. I took off 1/2" from the back piece and 1/2" from the side. This meant I had to adjust the arm hole slightly. I also made an adjustment to the neckline to prevent the dreaded strap flipping.

Here is the pattern with boning channels drawn in. (Not that in means anything right now but I like to plan ahead).

stays008.jpg

If you're gonna give me a headache, please bring me an aspirin!

http://www.forttaylorpyrates.com/

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Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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;);)

Step #2. Using scrap fabric, it's time for a mock up. Since it's late and I'm tired, I'll do that in the morning.

The plan is to cut the fabric, sew it together and try it on for size. With a little luck, I won't have to make any more alterations.

If you're gonna give me a headache, please bring me an aspirin!

http://www.forttaylorpyrates.com/

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delete

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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delete

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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I guess I'm a glutton for punishment, cause I'm making another pair of stays. This time around, I'm using burgundy wool. First I had to modify my pattern a little. I took off 1/2" from the back piece and 1/2" from the side. This meant I had to adjust the arm hole slightly. I also made an adjustment to the neckline to prevent the dreaded strap flipping.

Here is the pattern with boning channels drawn in. (Not that in means anything right now but I like to plan ahead).

stays008.jpg

Nice, Mistress Alexander. Is this the Corset Generator pattern or something else?

photo-2975.jpg?__rand=0.71617700+1286403
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Sorry to make you wait soooooooooooooooooooo long Captain. hehehe.

I cut out the scrap wool, sewed it all together and tried it on for size. There is now a nice little gap in back which I'm sure will get bigger when the boning channels are sewed in. The arm hole feels good and it seems to be a good fit.

stays009.jpg

On to Step # 3

Today's goal is to cut the interlining, fabric and lining. Then I'll tack the interlining and fabric together and begin sewing the boning channels. Once that is done I'll insert the boning. hmmm, let's see if I can get all that done today.

(Before cutting, I like to wash and press the fabric. Except for wool)

My big question is, since my color choice for the fabric is burgundy, what color shall I use for the binding?

Edited by Haunting Lily

If you're gonna give me a headache, please bring me an aspirin!

http://www.forttaylorpyrates.com/

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