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Shirt Closures


Jack Roberts

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So I made my first all linen shirt and I love it. I wish I would have made these from the beginning. So on to the questions.

What would be the most appropriate way to close the sleeves and neck? Currently I have nothing on the neck and buttons for the sleeves. Would ties be more accurate? If so how long should they be? What kind of ties? I would try and sew up a couple of small tubes out of the same material.

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Hi there Jack,

We see alot of shirts in pictures, but unfortunately they are worn with stocks that cover the closures. So we don't have a good deal of information on how shirts were typically closed.

Extant shirts have both buttons and buttonholes and buttons sewn together and used like cufflinks through buttonholes on both sides of the cuffs.

The only extant shirt from the GAoP has fabric buttons made from the same linen as the shirt. Thread buttons were also known.

Ties sound reasonable, of course. And I'm loathe to say they weren't used because they are so practical and easy to make that it's hard to say they weren't. But I can't think of any in use this late...

Kass

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

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pardon....how does one m ake a fabric button?

Mud Slinging Pyromanic , Errrrrr Ship's Potter at ye service

Vagabond's Rogue Potter Wench

First Mate of the Fairge Iolaire

Me weapons o choice be lots o mud, sharp pointy sticks, an string

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I din't know what to use that is small enough for shirt buttons, but for one Penny coat buttons......

Take a penny, and cut a fabric circle twice as large ... handsew a running stitch around the outside of the fabric, and pull both ends of the thread to gather the fabric over the penney... I read a book about making fabric buttons once, and it had a better way of finishing the back.... but I can't remember how they did it.... so I just stitch right through the gatherd fabric and use that as the botton's shank.....

I know there are better, more finished ways of doing it.... but with enough stitches through the back it works..... If yer really cheap, you can use a bottle top instead of a penny.......

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To make a fabric button, you do basically the same thing Pat describes, but without the penny. Where you put the penny, you stuff with little fabric scraps instead.

Buttons with wooden or metal disks inside are documentable for waistcoats and coats and breeches and the like, but I've never seen buttons with anything but fabric in them on shirts. Kinda makes them too heavy.

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I'm about to start on my shirt... So thinking ahead a bit (since the topic has come up anyway)...

I'm guessing by the sound of the nature of these fabric buttons that there might not be a standard size for them... But is there an average size? Or an ideal size? Or is it really a matter of feeling each button out, and letting it decide how big it wants to be?

On a bit of a tangent... I should be done my common man/sailor's jacket in the next day or so, and since I've worked so hard on it, I'm dieing to show it off... So I will post some pics when I finish lining the last sleeve and then get the buttons and button holes sewn on....

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Michael, if you cut your scrap linen in approximately 1-1/2" squares and then center a quarter on it, trace the quarter and do your running stitch, pull your gathers, it gives you a 1/2" size self-fabric button! If you have too much fabric to stuff into the button, just trim it off and stuff in the raw edges.

- Skittles

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and then get the buttons and button holes sewn on....

YUCK.... hand-sewn button holes are my least favorite part of making something....

I have a blue wool lined with linen waistecoat that I keep putting off finishing because of all the button holes..... (well I'll finish it by Spring... no big rush right now...)

NOTE: I've never made just gathered cloth buttons, I've made the penney ones for a jacket tho.......... I'll have to try it ans see how they come out....

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So if I use Skittles suggested method, but a dime instead of a quarter I should be be fine... Thanks you Skittles and Kass for both of your advice!

And Patrick, please know that I share your pain... button holes are my least favourite part as well... I have been struggling VERY hard to not use the machine for those... After sewing the rest of the jacket by hand, I would just feel like a complete cop-out to surrender to the machine for the button holes...

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Hang in with those buttonholes, Michael! You'll be so happy you did.

{Just don't ever attempt a 1700s frock coat! I think that's 150 buttonholes... ;) }

I think a nickel would be better than a dime. A dime might make a button that's too small to manage easily. Frankly, for your first shirt buttons, the size Skittles suggests is not a bad idea. Just remember to pull those gathers together tightly.

And do post pictures. I feel like this sailor's jacket of your is one of my offspring. ;)

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

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Hang in with those buttonholes, Michael! You'll be so happy you did.

{Just don't ever attempt a 1700s frock coat! I think that's 150 buttonholes... ;) }

I think a nickel would be better than a dime. A dime might make a button that's too small to manage easily. Frankly, for your first shirt buttons, the size Skittles suggests is not a bad idea. Just remember to pull those gathers together tightly.

And do post pictures. I feel like this sailor's jacket of your is one of my offspring. ;)

Yeppers, said sailor's jacket is an RH### (sorry I don't know your inventory off by heart yet ;) )...

And you just talked yourself out of a sale on another pattern lady, with that 150 buttonhole comment... ;)

I was hoping to finish it for this weekend, but as I am packing tonight, and leaving early tomorrow morning, the jacket will unfortunately not make it's debut as hoped...

Maybe I will bring the jacket along and beg the misses to sew for me during our 7 hour drive.... hmmm... I think I may have figured a way to dodge the "sewing the buttonhole" bullet... ;)

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RH705 (see, I know all my babies' names  :huh: )

Damn!  No RH702 for you then, Michael?  <sigh>  :lol:

Definately no to the RH702... (for now and probably a long time at least)

But when you finally release the pattern for the GAoP shirt/chemise and accessories, I will be all over that one like a fat kid on a cupcake..

Hint, hint, nag, nag... poke poke.... etc.

I heard you mention a knitting pattern in the Stocking thread... That one has my eyebrow arched... i know a couple of knitters who work at a very reasonable price, and are often willing to barter rather than take cash...

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Cool! That's the way to do it, Michael -- barter. No tax on barter. :huh:

Luckily my knitters are elvin. There are no labour laws for elves, so I can work them hard and not pay any payroll taxes. :lol:

RH702 is probably my most popular pattern, so it won't be lonely if you don't buy it, Michael. :lol:

Yes, RH713 -- the GAoP Accessories pattern! Now that RF2 is over and my house is no longer a disaster area, I have the brain space for that again. I expect it will be on the website in March. Watch this space. :huh:

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

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People, people, you don't bribe Kass with bartered knitting & poking. You bribe her with chocolate, dark chocolate. You'd be amazed with the things that will get you. :lol:

"If part of the goods be plundered by a pirate the proprietor or shipmaster is not entitled to any contribution." An introduction to merchandize, Robert Hamilton, 1777

Slightly Obsessed, an 18th Century reenacting blog

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SEEE.....

see...

I just knew it.....

Kass really is a klingon....

Kass even sounds like a Klingon name....... KaS........

Hey everyone knows that the Klingons make and appriceate chocolat the best....... aaargh... HeaG-yucH (chocolate death...)

other sillyness...............

There are no labour laws for elves,

yer very lucky that they are just elves.... The Goblin Councel has thier eye(s) opon you.....

Oops... being silly in Capt. Twill again.......sorry.......

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Silly is ALWAYS welcome in Captain Twill, Pat! After all, they made me moderator... :lol:

You can't let the elves out of your sight, though. Little buggers will unionize if given half a chance.

My X-husband once told me that Kass was a Klingon name. If I remember correctly, it implies that I'm in naval service. Isn't that a hoot? :lol:

I have the right hair for it, for sure. And when I'm angry... oh, just ask Foxe. :lol:

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Building an Empire... one prickety stitch at a time!

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Can anyone take some pictures of making a fabric button? I'm not quite visualising the process right.

PS I must be a thread killer. Most of the threads I start and then answer back on just get killed. I haven't been on in a few days and look this one blossoms into something good. :lol:

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