Grommet style seachest becket pt 3

[MorganTyre]

Ok, here goes - take the phone off the hook, put the kids to bed, put the cat out (I didn't and she drove me crazy diving after all the bits of string) - it's time to tackle what will probably be the biggest turkshead you will ever tie. This isn't coachwhipping proper but the appearance is the same and for me at least the process is easier. For reference, we are tying Ashleys #1289. There are a few basics you will need to know here. I am assuming you know how to tie a constrictor hitch, a wall knot, and a crown knot. If not look at Constrictor Hitch, Wall knot, and Crown knot.

Step 1 - Setting up

Measure out three six foot strands of string. Find the middles and place them where you intend to start your knot, evenly spaced around your form (a piece of line if this is your first attempt, the becket if this is for keeps) and seize them there with a tight constrictor hitch. Now spiral them down the line with a right helix at about a 45 degree angle. Go a little (25% or so) past the length of the finished coachwhipping and then seize the bottom down with another constrictor hitch. It's important that you give yourself a little length at this point because the finished knot will shrink up somewhat during tightening.

Now crown the top to the left and wall the bottom to the right.

Note that in my example I wrapped the helix a little too tight a spiral. This bit me later on. I haven't done a bunch of these and the spacing is a matter of practice. I ended up with 13 rows going one way and 7 going the other which still looks really good but not the nice even checkerboard you are really shooting for. Also, DO NOT MAKE THE INITIAL HELIX TOO TIGHT THE STRANDS SHOULD BE LOOSE. Otherwise, weaving the lines later becomes next to impossible.

Step 2 - Starting the weave

Now, starting at the top work each string over one and then under one in a helix counter to the one you set up initially. Go one step on each of the three strings and then repeat the process now on the bottom working one strand up at a time, once again counter to the helix.

Step 3 - Continuing the weave

At this point things are going to get increasingly clear. Continue the over and under pattern, one string and one step at a time first at one end, then on the other - all the while working towards the center in a helix that's roughly 90 degrees to the initial lay.

Step 4 - Doubling

Once you get to the center of the weave the lines pass parallel to each other. From this point on the weave will be pretty clear.

Once you reach the outer end it's time to follow the same lines inward again.

From this point on it's no longer necessary to stick to the strict one string at a time regiment. In fact, it's recommended that you don't have all of the strings come out in the same place when you are finished. Also, once it's doubled twice as shown in the picture you can carefully cut and remove the constrictor hitches.

Step 5 - Finishing and finishing touches

From here on out it's up to you how many times you want to double the turkshead. In theory there really is no upper limit, just what's practical with the space you have available. The goal is even coverage and I was able to achieve that with three doubles but you might have different results with the material you have on hand. Now it's time to tighten the whole thing up which is a time consuming and careful process. I didn't think it was necessary to photograph it though as it should be relatively self explanatory. Expect the tightening to take longer than the initial tying. I also like to use a pair of needle nose pliers to help grab the line one things start getting snug. When you are done, roll the whole thing under your foot a few times to even things up and get it nice and round.

Now we have a gripping surface on the becket which is great but there are two other details we need.

First, the becket will pass through a wooden cleat so chafe is a real concern. For this area I used a piece of leather taken from one of the sea dog leather chafing gear sets. These are pre-punched and come with waxed twine and a needle. I don't care for their stitching instructions, preferring a baseball stitch instead which I can illustrate later if anyone requests it.

Now that we have a gripping surface and a bearing surface we need something to hold everything in place. For this use two turksheads of the type illustrated in part 2 of this tutorial. When all is said and down you should end up with something similar to the final picture. I chose not to worm this grommet as it made taking pictures of the details of the coachwhipping difficult but worming, especially with a contrasting material, would be a really nice touch. To finish just varnish, shellac, or pine tar the becket and you are set. If you choose to tar it expect it to take many days before you'll really want to handle it.

Part 1

Part 2