Making a full kit in four months

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

6 hours ago, Stynky Tudor said:

FIGHT!

I'm so jealous of you guys making cool stuff. I usually take over the dinning room table in mid Winter until sometime in Spring. But we've had an almost constant stream of (family) visitors since November and it hasn't stopped. 

Really, I think my project is wining the fight, but I didn't hear no bell yet.

Honestly, I've mostly been faffing about with little bits of nothing. I need to buckle down and find a good pattern for, most importantly, a waistcoat, and decide if I want to use any of the questionable fabrics I already have in my stash or try to source something better for one. That's the item I am going to most need. Everything else from Gaines is serviceable, but that was the item that I most wished I had.

Any reccs on patterns now gladly being accepted.

[madPete]

I see where you're going with that and it does look very close to that original. I now understand why you were thinking about refinish. You have a good extant example to pull from so the skys the limit.

[madPete]

2 hours ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

Any reccs on patterns now gladly being accepted.

Reconstructing History RH704 is a versatile pattern. I believe it has instructions for short sailor waistcoat, long waistcoat and sleeved waistcoats. I think she's in Europe now, but when I ordered last time it arrived quickly. There are some resellers too, might even find on eBay.

https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh704-1700s-1730s-waistcoats

[Stynky Tudor]

1 hour ago, madPete said:

4 hours ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

Any reccs on patterns now gladly being accepted.

Reconstructing History RH704 is a versatile pattern. I believe it has instructions for short sailor waistcoat, long waistcoat and sleeved waistcoats. I think she's in Europe now, but when I ordered last time it arrived quickly. There are some resellers too, might even find on eBay.

https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh704-1700s-1730s-waistcoats

I can recommend this pattern, I've made both the sleeved and sleeveless versions. Sleeves on anything (shirts, waistcoats, jackets, coats) totally messes with me, but I've done it. 

[michaelsbagley]

Reconstructing History does digital downloads now as an option (they gave for a few years now).

It knocks at least half off the cost (maybe even closer to 2/3rds off?), but it requires you having a home printer in good working order with a fair amount of ink.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

20 hours ago, madPete said:

Reconstructing History RH704 is a versatile pattern. I believe it has instructions for short sailor waistcoat, long waistcoat and sleeved waistcoats. I think she's in Europe now, but when I ordered last time it arrived quickly. There are some resellers too, might even find on eBay.

https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh704-1700s-1730s-waistcoats

You know I've looked at this pattern about a dozen times and somehow never actually read the note that it's got the sleeveless and short options lol

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

If I wanted to be extra fancy I could get the wide format file at that and print it on the wide format at work so.....pirate some of their toner and paper lol

[madPete]

On 1/29/2024 at 1:01 PM, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

You know I've looked at this pattern about a dozen times and somehow never actually read the note that it's got the sleeveless and short options lol

more bang for the buck!

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Progress report; none

Just kidding...plenty of progress in the brain, just not much physically yet. 

Trunk update: 

Handles have been picked, purchased and received. I'm pleased with the choice. A little more ornate then the originals I was trying to match, but general shape and color, and wide enough set that grip concerns are negligible.

I just now need to get up the guts to drill holes in my trunk or wait til the manfolk gets home from his work trip to do the power tool thing. After I get those on I will see how I feel about adding corner brackets and strapping. 

On fabric side, after a fun discussion on discord last week about bags, I'm planning a canvas bag project. I've got a roll of cotton canvas, not great for much but would suit this point well, if not the most accurate fiber for the use in period. Pics below are proof of concept....ignore the weird size, shape, cuts, angles, seams and straps. It was literally a quick and dirty practice round with a scrap I had used to test for shrinkage. But a simple rectangle with two seams (I'll probably do French seams for  strength and fray prevention) with a little flap and a simple strap to sling it various ways seems keeping within period "bag theory". Final version will be wider (and with straighter seams and ironed fabric). I will detail construction once I'm actually working on the final.

 

Third concurrent project is hemming this flipping purple petticoat. I'm trying to decide between stitch counting concerns should I just break down and do it on my machine and the executive dysfunction that is preventing me from getting cracking on it by hand

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

on the waist coat topic I am currently ruminating on two different ideas (before I will more then likely pull the trigger and purchase the RH pattern). . .

First, just hack the sleeves off the blue jacket I made. The fit in the shoulders without the sleeves was a little wonky, but the sleeves themselves also aren't anything to write home about. A little snippy snip, a little whip stitch and I could have the whole item knocked off my list, and I still have my black wool frock coat for any cold moments during the event.

Secondly, I already have the RH women's riding habit pattern as it is a bucket list item in my life to someday ride a horse sidesaddle through Hyde Park wearing an inordinate amount of green wool made in just this pattern, but I digress. That pattern happens to have a waistcoat pattern, women's wear of course, but habits were often made to follow the masculine fashion, and mixing pieces is kind of the vibe I've always envisioned. So I am tempted to whip one up on that pattern and see if it works.

Again . . . I know neither of these options ultimate will yield what I want them to, so they more then likely won't be done but I have to think it through, and unfortunately for you all, you have to bear the brunt of my musings.

[madPete]

24 minutes ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

on the waist coat topic I am currently ruminating on two different ideas (before I will more then likely pull the trigger and purchase the RH pattern). . .

First, just hack the sleeves off the blue jacket I made. The fit in the shoulders without the sleeves was a little wonky, but the sleeves themselves also aren't anything to write home about. A little snippy snip, a little whip stitch and I could have the whole item knocked off my list, and I still have my black wool frock coat for any cold moments during the event.

Secondly, I already have the RH women's riding habit pattern as it is a bucket list item in my life to someday ride a horse sidesaddle through Hyde Park wearing an inordinate amount of green wool made in just this pattern, but I digress. That pattern happens to have a waistcoat pattern, women's wear of course, but habits were often made to follow the masculine fashion, and mixing pieces is kind of the vibe I've always envisioned. So I am tempted to whip one up on that pattern and see if it works.

Again . . . I know neither of these options ultimate will yield what I want them to, so they more then likely won't be done but I have to think it through, and unfortunately for you all, you have to bear the brunt of my musings.

Except for the pockets, a sleeveless waistcoat goes pretty quick. I looked back on the building photos of the coat, and you may want to cut the arm openings slightly larger if it feels wonky. Otherwise that is a cheap and dirty way to get a waistcoat. 

I have a blue wool sailors coat and a linen buccaneer jacket that I selectively carry depending on event.  My usual wear is a sleeveless waistcoat, so the sailors coats are rarely worn unless I rangle a cruise on the ocean. But I'm in Arizona so, your needs are likely different. I'm making the wool cloak for serious warmth, and it may double as my sleeping blanket, which means I need to get cracking on it again. Life is kinda messed up right now with parents in and out of the hospital, so I've not had much chance to work projects.

[Stynky Tudor]

On 2/5/2024 at 6:57 PM, madPete said:

Except for the pockets, a sleeveless waistcoat goes pretty quick. I looked back on the building photos of the coat, and you may want to cut the arm openings slightly larger if it feels wonky. Otherwise that is a cheap and dirty way to get a waistcoat.

I've made the sleeveless pattern a few times now and can attest to it being pretty quick/easy, especially if you have any previous sewing experience. Initially I didn't have a clue or experience sewing and making (welt) pockets hung me up big time, until I saw a YouTube and I could wrap my head around the process. But even then actual pockets aren't necessary, you can have nothing or just ornamental pocket flaps. 

[madPete]

On 2/5/2024 at 7:20 PM, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

Secondly, I already have the RH women's riding habit pattern as it is a bucket list item in my life to someday ride a horse sidesaddle through Hyde Park wearing an inordinate amount of green wool made in just this pattern, but I digress. That pattern happens to have a waistcoat pattern, women's wear of course, but habits were often made to follow the masculine fashion, and mixing pieces is kind of the vibe I've always envisioned. So I am tempted to whip one up on that pattern and see if it works.

😁😁😁

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

31 minutes ago, madPete said:

😁😁😁

I blame this one.....for the green wool habit specifically but also obsession with historical clothing in general....

 

[madPete]

10 hours ago, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

I blame this one.....for the green wool habit specifically but also obsession with historical clothing in general....

 

My obsession was always Dr Syn from the Disney Scarecrow series. Yeah, kinda dark...

 

[Mary Diamond]

Ah, everyone so busy creating… wonderful!

[madPete]

On 2/11/2024 at 7:37 AM, Stynky Tudor said:

I've made the sleeveless pattern a few times now and can attest to it being pretty quick/easy, especially if you have any previous sewing experience. Initially I didn't have a clue or experience sewing and making (welt) pockets hung me up big time, until I saw a YouTube and I could wrap my head around the process. But even then actual pockets aren't necessary, you can have nothing or just ornamental pocket flaps. 

It's nice having a resource like youtube. Helped me get thru my first set of sleeves.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Updates....

 

Handles done on the trunk. Still easiest to team carry it (especially if you have tiny T-rex arms like me) because of how wide the trunk itself is, but the grips are large enough and set in such a way that it can be hauled solo and no one's hands should get punched with how spacious the curve on them are.

 

Also, purple skirt has been hemmed...finally just did it on the machine. The hemming-and-hawing (pun fully intended) was just stopping all progress in anything so I needed to just get it done. 

After that, I got the gusset patch put in on my torn grey slops, and I started trimming up and hemming down the interior seams. 

 

So....a slow start but some signs of steady progress.

[Mary Diamond]

On 2/25/2024 at 12:03 AM, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

So....a slow start but some signs of steady progress.

Better than myself, a leaf buffeted about making what feels like no progress at all!

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

On 2/26/2024 at 2:12 PM, Mary Diamond said:

Better than myself, a leaf buffeted about making what feels like no progress at all!

Compared to how much I had done at this point out from the event back in the summer, I truly feel the same way.....I have so much less to do but feel less prepared to really dive in on any of it.

 

Though tonight I finally cut and whipped up the bag I've been plotting...no real in progress photos cause its really just a large rectangle, folded and french seamed up the sides, long strap tacked into the seams. Top inside edge is machine stitched down but the outer flap I'm going to hand hem since that will be more readily available. Should suit for quick grab kit, and daily carry items.

 

Very loosely based off this image, just with more of a flap at top

[madPete]

Even after the initial full scale effort, you always discover other items that become obvious and necessary after an event.  We've all been there!

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

On 1/21/2024 at 1:57 PM, Tudor MercWench Smith said:

*Ding ding ding*

Round two!!!

Three months out till the next event and here's my project list for my own kit, in no particular order

Mend

- hem and buttons on the last minute shirt I was working on at Gaines ✅ (finished before I even posted the list so I could feel like I was ahead of the curve)

- hem the purple petticoat from Gaines

- mend the grey short slops, probably put in a gusset 

- possibly alter the black booties I have to make them look more period

- possibly re-pleat red petticoat

- reinforce some weak points on my stays

- reshape hat, find new pin

 

Make

- waist coat (top priority)

- scarves, head and neck

- 3rd skirt

- 3rd pair of slops

- under drawers

- Mantua, possibly

- apron

- knapsack 

- women's shift

- bum roll

 

Shop for

- more stockings

- frail/grass basket

 

 

Gear

- Chest/trunk refinish (possibly my next project, found one for free, antique but not period, needs a few repairs and refinishings and I have to decide if I want to add hardware to make it look more period)

- better/more dishes and cookware

 

From this original list:

In the "mend" category, shirt & petticoat are done, slops almost (gusset it in, patching the tear, but am taking the time to flat fell the seams as these were made in haste and were not done with French seams and the fraying is contributing to eventually structural weakness). Next on the list will be the hat. Still not sure if I want to go full shellac yet. Wondering is just laundry starch would help maintain some shape but with slightly less *flop*. In meantime have to start thinking about best reinforcement techniques for the stays. I've given up hope of altering the shoes I have. It would require massive amounts of fussing for probably less then ideal results.

From the make category....I've made a bag. I love said bag. But that's it. Am now seriously leaning towards the "hack the sleeves off the sailors jacket and take in the arm holes" instead of starting the waistcoat from scratch, mostly just cause I am waffling about fabrics. That would free up time for Mantua...which is significantly less necessary but harder to find a short cut. Added to this list is a shirt I owe Stynky. Got the fabric prepped and cut over the weekend. Probably will get the major pieces constructed tonight or tomorrow, hand finishes to be piece mealed over the next few weeks. 

To buy - shoes have been added to the list. I have my eye on several options but they all fall a little short on one of the three categories (accuracy, fit considerations, price). Otherwise the only other thing I've purchased is some bamboo toothbrushes. Not accurate or necessary but look a bit better should anyone catch me while scrubbing.

Gear wise, chest is now functional with the handles. Still considering a hasp since the lock is busted and maybe some strapping. Have found a couple of good looking Dutch ovens on the local Facebook marketplace that would probably do better then my fancy enameled iron ones from home. In process of negotiation on prices. We shall see 

[michaelsbagley]

I'll throw my two two cents in on the hat. One of my hats, was done with shellac, but perhaps not as thoroughly as it should be. Any rain, or even a heavy damp fog will cause that hato to droop... its an earlier period hat, do ive dragged my feet for a few years now re-shellac-ing it.

But it sounds like you've made a ton of awesome progress. Cheers!

[madPete]

With the shellac, you can sneak up on the firmness you want. I usually do 3-4 good soakings to get it where i want it. so 1 or two might be enough for your taste. its just a spray bottle and acts like windex or some thin fluid like that. The idea is to soak it not coat it with a layer. I think some people mix it far too thick.

[Tudor MercWench Smith]

Ok so we are a month out from 1721 and I'm hitting the panic sewing phase .....except unlike last time I have not been meticulously sewing every spare second I get. Lol

So some executive decisions were made tonight... mainly I finally made the call to yoink the sleeves off the blue jacket I made during last round to turn it into a waistcoat. A waistcoat was the #1 thing I needed to add to my kit, and I have no good fabric in the stash, and budget for kit upgrades went out the door with the plumber last week so any hope of new fabric and patterns went off the table. All in all I think it was a good choice. Just gotta whip up the arm holes and if I get nothing else done, I will be good to go.

 

Other panic progress made today included finishing up the flat felling of the seams of the Mr. Smee plants that I've been dawdling with, and braiding some embroidery floss into a twine type thing to tie up the back

 

If I can get some undisturbed sewing machine time, I'm hoping to get the shirt finished this weekend. Going to wash up some fabric to be ready for a pass at a Mantua this week.  Maybe hit up @madPete  for that shellac spray recipe again to finally de-flop my hat next weekend. Neck scarf will fill in any hand stitching time I get not filled with the finishing bits on the other items.

Why oh why did I procrastinate all over this lol?!?