willie wobble Posted December 31, 2010 Posted December 31, 2010 and if you take out a little more wood you can glue felt to the inside to give it a tighter secure fit so the blade doesn't fall out
captscurvy_nc Posted December 31, 2010 Author Posted December 31, 2010 Second piece to the sheath. I cannot stress this enough, splurge for a good sharpening stone! The chisel is from a set of four I got at Michaels for $24
captscurvy_nc Posted December 31, 2010 Author Posted December 31, 2010 and if you take out a little more wood you can glue felt to the inside to give it a tighter secure fit so the blade doesn't fall out I have heard adding a small bit of leather to the inside but felt would be cheaper. Ive also heard that sanding the inside is not a good idea cause the sand particles can damage the blade. I would think the uneven wood splinters would hurt it more. I may line it with felt just to make this a non issue
Quartermaster James Posted December 31, 2010 Posted December 31, 2010 I have heard adding a small bit of leather to the inside but felt would be cheaper. Ive also heard that sanding the inside is not a good idea cause the sand particles can damage the blade. I would think the uneven wood splinters would hurt it more. I may line it with felt just to make this a non issue I can tell you from experience that wood can scratch the blade if the scabbard's too tight.. As to sanding, a stiff brush and a tack cloth should get rid of any particulate residue. I'm suspecting this bit about not sanding may be a bit of a red herring, or a story born from sloppy craftsmanship. Unless you somehow protect the throat and wipe your blade every time you sheath it, some grit and grime is bound to end up in the scabbard over the course of time.
captscurvy_nc Posted January 1, 2011 Author Posted January 1, 2011 Thanks for clearing that up. I assumed the same but glad someone else backed up my thoughts.
captscurvy_nc Posted January 1, 2011 Author Posted January 1, 2011 Spent 1 1/2 hours this morning carving the second half and still have at least 2 more to go but I will post pics before I clamp the pieces together.
captscurvy_nc Posted January 2, 2011 Author Posted January 2, 2011 Well the rain tonight stopped me from cutting the second half but I will have it done tomorrow morning an will post pics of the two halfs and the clamping process
captscurvy_nc Posted January 2, 2011 Author Posted January 2, 2011 Pics of the two finished halves coming soon. Just a tip fr anyone attempting this project make sure to draw an outline of the blade insert section on the outside of the sheath so when you start sanding the final form you don't remove too much wood
Cannibal Chrispy Posted January 2, 2011 Posted January 2, 2011 if it got thin, krazy glue mixed with sawdust will firm the area up. Illustration courtesy of Patrick Hand, and his Pyrate Comix. To see comic in it's entirety, click below http://pyracy.com/index.php?showtopic=13374 All rights reserved.
captscurvy_nc Posted January 3, 2011 Author Posted January 3, 2011 I'll keep that in mind in case I need to fix an area. Thanks.
captscurvy_nc Posted January 5, 2011 Author Posted January 5, 2011 Well had to break the two halves apart and redo the depth of the blade grove towards the middle but the fit is perfect now. Should be able to start the leaterwork this weekend
Captain McCool Posted January 5, 2011 Posted January 5, 2011 Cool! Can't wait to see the finished product! Captain Jack McCool, landlocked pirate extraordinaire, Captain of the dreaded prairie schooner Ill Repute, etc. etc. ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ "That’s what a ship is, you know. It’s not just a keel, and a hull, and a deck, and sails. That’s what a ship needs. But what a ship is… what the Black Pearl really is… is freedom." -Captain Jack Sparrow
captscurvy_nc Posted January 6, 2011 Author Posted January 6, 2011 "> Two halves resanded and refitted
captscurvy_nc Posted January 6, 2011 Author Posted January 6, 2011 Put them together (for the second time) yesterday afternoon. Have taken the clamps off since and tested the blade. Still fits so now its time to sand the edges again then on to the leatherwork
captscurvy_nc Posted January 13, 2011 Author Posted January 13, 2011 Top part of the scabbard showing stitching and tie off
Dread Pyrate Greyhound Posted January 22, 2011 Posted January 22, 2011 I once made a leather scabbard by taking some suede, folding over the top opening and stiffening it with more leather. Then folding the suede in half, putting with grommets on the edges, then I laced the grommets together with leather strips and I had a tube, then I curved the l;ine of grommets near the bottom and trimmed it so it was straight, with a curve that closed, It worked pretty well. Let every man Know freedom, Kings be damned, And let the Devil sort out the mess afterwards.
Capt. Bo of the WTF co. Posted January 23, 2011 Posted January 23, 2011 I use saddle skirt weight leather and no wood for mine. Cascabel did a tutorial on this some time back. It is stiff enough to hold straight and flexible enough not to break or crack under stress. That's the worry I'd have with the wooden core scabbards. Once they break, you have a permannent problem. With the all leather ones, you just wet them down and let them set and dry straight again if they get bent. Bo
Iron Hand Posted January 23, 2011 Posted January 23, 2011 Top part of the scabbard showing stitching and tie off I think yer doin' an excellent job especially the chiseling. Are ya gonna add a brass tip at top and bottom? Iron Hand's Plunder Purveyor of Quality Goodes of questionable origins
captscurvy_nc Posted January 28, 2011 Author Posted January 28, 2011 If I can find one within my price range
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