lady constance Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 fellow sewers.......... got a weird question for you.......... since wool only stretches one way, when you cut 'on the grain' / going with the grain for a sleeve, when you get to the top of the sleeve to fit into the arm hole, there will be quite a bit of stretch.... considering that the sleeve for many jackets of this era ARE CURVED, what do you all find your fabric ends up doing where you have obviously have end that are so near the BIAS of fabric??????????????? should one place it on the fabric so that the TOP of the sleeve that will insert into the jacket IS CUT ON THE GRAIN? { and care little for the rest of the sleeve being cut on the grain? i am using a suiting weight of 100% wool....... just for my trial patterns fitting.......and having a devil of a time since really the top of the sleeves are basically being cut on the bias when you come to sewing....... remember that we are working with a sleeve that is curved to the shape of the arm ............yah know it has a curve to where the elbow actually is on the person......... i am bamboozled......... there HAS to be a trick to this..... do i need to place the pattern peice to a certain angle so i dont hit the bias part/ angle the fabric naturally exhibits? if so, what degree? lady constance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 OK... maybe I miss-read something.... but you can't cut a curved sleeve on the grain.... some parts of it are going to be on the bias.... just the way it works..... but that is why you can mash and fit it into the armseye... The Patrick Hand method of tailoring..... "It's going ter fit.... I can mash a square peg into a round hole... So I can fit this......." NOTE:.... sometimes I have to rip it out and try again.... but most of the times it works...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lady constance Posted March 5, 2009 Author Share Posted March 5, 2009 Patrick-- you do understand.........oh thank God! but my problem remains that i am trying to get this pattern worked out so that the sleeves align perfectly..... the boiled wool that this jacket will eventually be cut out of has MAJOR stretch ........in one direction alone....[ side to side stretch is amazing!!] that means that the top seams of the arms will potentially end up looking like they are from a roccoco gown with a huge poof....just do think that is the look i am going for in a navy short jacket.... so i am trying to foresee and alleveiate that problem all together........ can you send me a link to the sailors jacket you made as it is all together--- i saw your cutting and patterning... that is a big favor to ask... but ask i shall..... as soon as silas returns home from work i shall have him post teh pictures showing what i mean... and hopefull that picture will show what i mean with no words at all.... a pic is worth a thousand words.... lady constance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Well.... I pin the snot outta the sleeve and kinda make it fit (a little fudging....stretching and mashing...) but once it is pined and kinda looks right, then I sew it.... I may have to trim some off the top of the sleeve once I'm done... I just don't tell anyone that part.... OK... sometimes it takes a few tries to get it pined right.... I just keep messing with it until it works.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt. Sterling Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 . I may have to trim some off the top of the sleeve once I'm done... I just don't tell anyone that part.... You should tell people just that, because you half to... just goes with the way the coats were made... "I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers Crewe of the Archangel http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel# http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lady constance Posted March 7, 2009 Author Share Posted March 7, 2009 ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh GOT IT !! GOT IT GOT IT GOT IT!!! and have to share!! TO MAKE arm holes and sleeves match exactly.... 1. take/run string around the sleeve hole on jacket top{ think measuring exact circumference... cut to exact length........... 2. take that string and """"find""""" the exact place on the sleeve you have made .. where will the peices fit together perfectly with no puckering and pulling ......... 3.chalk / mark with fabric pencil the exact location of string ... SEW!!!!!!!!! 3.5 dont pay attention to the amount of fabric that you cut off 4. be glad you always add extra to the bottom of your sleeves 5 pray the wearer has small biceps& triceps--if they do consider enlarging that area on the next jacket without changing the diamerter of the top of sleeve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 3.5 dont pay attention to the amount of fabric that you cut off4. be glad you always add extra to the bottom of your sleeves Yeah.... something like that........ I always kind thought it was like cheating (or I miss measured) when I had to cut the excess off part of the sheave once I sewed it in... it fit though.... worked for me.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lady constance Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 PATRICK............ cheating? did you say cheating??????????? WE ARE PIRATES............... HAVE THEE not read the bylaws of plunder ,cheating , stealing, borrowing permanently......../ section 814.739 rsmo .......... thou shall do as thy please concerning all matters ..........and carenot what fellow brethren pirates be doing and thinking about thee and thine own matters........ which leads me to ask WHY i care so darn much about the sleeve fitting right anyway......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 which leads me to ask WHY i care so darn much about the sleeve fitting right anyway..... ....Well 'cause even black 'arted, stinking, blood thirsty, thivin', Pyrates gots ter look good when they are pillagin', an' wenchin' an' corrousin' an alla that' fun Pyratical stuff.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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