I just mucked up me pistol...

[Bilgemunky]

I'm surely not the first this has happened to, but during a recent parade my pistol took a mind to make friendly with the pavement. No real damage done, just a little roughed up on the butt-plate and the barrel - both brass.

Now I don't mind a few blemishes on my pistol, but I would prefer these scratches not look quite so fresh and pavement-like. Any suggestions on what I might best use to buff them out and perhaps soften the sharp edges a bit? I hesitate to use steel wool or anything for fear of making things worse, so I would definitely value the advice of someone more experienced.

Thanks!

[Stynky Tudor]

I'm surely not the first this has happened to, but during a recent parade my pistol took a mind to make friendly with the pavement. No real damage done, just a little roughed up on the butt-plate and the barrel - both brass.

Now I don't mind a few blemishes on my pistol, but I would prefer these scratches not look quite so fresh and pavement-like. Any suggestions on what I might best use to buff them out and perhaps soften the sharp edges a bit? I hesitate to use steel wool or anything for fear of making things worse, so I would definitely value the advice of someone more experienced.

Thanks!

Can ya post a picture of what the damage looks like?

[Capt. Bo of the WTF co.]

Steel wool will not hurt it. Use an emery board like mom uses on her fingernails to knock off the edges. Make sure to go in one diection only though with your strokes. I would suggest using Nev-R-Dull at this point also. Takes a long time but will polish real nice.

Bo

Edited December 12, 2008 by Capt. Bo of the WTF co.

[Duchess]

You might try taking at it with some crocus cloth. Its generally what I use to polish metal before bluing and such. If the scratches are deep and sharp you could start a bit more coarse and work finer until you have a look you're comfortable with.

[blackjohn]

WOW! My dad was just telling me about crocus cloth! He said my grandfather used to get it, and it was great stuff, but he didn't know if anyone still made it or not. Cool!

http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/crclsh.html

[Captain Jim]

Not to change the subject, but what sort of grade (grit level) does crocus cloth come in?

[Duchess]

I my experience it doesn't have a grade or grit listed. Though I think it is something above 1200 certainly. Its likened to jewelers rouge.

[Cascabel]

Crocus cloth comes in only one grade in my experience. It is really nice stuff !! It is finer than the finest sandpaper. It has a cloth backing, and is used dry. There is yet a finer product available called "Emery Polishing Paper", made by Carborundum Abrasives. It is a bit hard to find, but excellent. It will get you almost to a mirror-like finish. The next thing finer than that would be Jeweller's Rouge, which is actually a compound in stick form meant for use on a buffing wheel.

Commonly available abrasive papers are available in 90, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, and 600 grades. The higher the number, the finer the finish. Crocus cloth is finer than all of these. All of these are usually "wet or dry" types. They are best used wet with water to carry away the sanding residue. This also gives a finer finish. They can usually be had at suppliers of automotive painting supplies, if not at your local hardware store, or if an industrial supply store is not nearby. Probably more than you really wanted to know about abrasives !!!!

>>>> Cascabel

[Capn Bob]

This crocus cloth...it sounds like something I might be likely to use for the scrimshaw work I'll be starting up early next year. Give me (fossil) ivory a nice polish.

But one question...how many crocuses does it take to make this cloth?

[callenish gunner]

crocii!!!

[Bilgemunky]

Thanks for the suggestions, all. I found some emery paper at a local hardware store, along with a metal finishing pad and some rouge cloth. I started with the butt cap to see how it takes the treatment, and so far so good. Obviously the small gouges can't be buffed away, but I was able to smooth out the jags without looking like I took a wire-wheel to the thing. Now to re-age the nice new polish (I prefer my pisols clean but weathered) and see how it looks. If I'm satisfied then I'll repeat the process with the barrel.

Sorry Stynky, but not pix. Honestly I think the knicks would have just turned out to look like indistinguishable shiny specs on film. It was more by touching them that I could tell something needed to be done.

I'll let everyone know how it goes. Thanks again!

-Bilge

[oderlesseye]

.

Edited December 12, 2008 by oderlesseye

[Capn Bob]

Croci? Didn't I see them in that farm outside of Muskogee?

Nah, them wuz alligators...

crocii!!!

[MorganTyre]

Never be afraid to sand metals. It's amazing the quality of the results you can get. A nice finish can certainly be achieved by hand but a few inexpensive tools and you can produce true mirrors out of the roughest old rusty stock ion a surprisingly short time. For your specific project (just speaking generally since I know you've already come up with something that works) since it's brass (ie soft) I'd start with 600 grit wet/dry trimite (it's a black sandpaper made by 3M. Best stuff ever) and wet block sand it. Use lighter hand pressure as you work your way down. Block sanding will knock down the ridge caused by the gouge and take everything down to the base metal level. I'd leave it at that point. I started to write up a whole explanation why but it's probably not necessary. I can elaborate if anyone wants. Honestly with brass that should do the trick. The sandpaper will leave a matte finish which brasso will buff out.

[MadL]

Need t' sand some scratches outta yer butt 'n barrel eh?

Well....

I know a whore in th' Port O' Nantucket,

Who......

....n'er mind

[Bloody Sam Rackham]

I met her!!!