Flintlock v. Doglock

[Quartermaster James]

Considering all the money I've put into modification and repairs on the damn thing - I could have created something from scratch.

Hence the common thought that the Indian built guns are little more than kits.

[Capt Thighbiter]

So, to stand behind my belief that there are no dumb questions: How the heck do you get the hammer off the pivot?

I removed the screw and the hammer is still stuck on the square pin. Do ya just pry it off? Or is it secured by a second method that does not present itself so obviously? I am of the school where 'metal pats are not just stuck, but being retained by something - brute force never a good idea'.

Prying is never a good idea !! You may scar up the edge of it, and also the face of the lockplate. The correct method of removal is to completely dis-assemble the lock, and then support the lockplate across the jaws of your vise so that the tumbler is loose between the jaws, and using a BRASS punch, tap the square shaft down and out of the hammer. Removing the cock (hammer) is unfortunately the last step to taking apart a lock.

Sometimes they are not really tight, and can be gently wiggled a bit and will come off without complete dis-assembly, or they can be taken off with VERY careful prying, if they are not too tight. The tumbler shaft usually has a very slight taper to it so that the cock stays tight. If you try removal without complete dis-assembly, keep in mind that when in the fired position, the shoulder of the cock rests on the top edge of the lockplate, and in some locks, this is all that keeps the mainspring from falling off the toe of the tumbler. For that reason, if you remove the cock without dis-assembling the lock, you need to do it at half-cock.

Thanks Arthur! I hate forcing anything ( except maybe my wife) to do stuff.

>>>>> Cascabel

[Crudbeard]

Awesome that everyone is having luck with theirs. I'm not having any luck with mine. My doglock still hasn't fired yet. Just a continuous "click, click, click". The frizzen is terribly grooved now. Sad when It's barely been used!

Suggestions, mates? Should I get a new frizzen or harden the frizzen? About ready to trade the hammer and frizzen for parts or something.

I love my doglock, it's massive and wicked looking. I wouldn't trade it unless for a working doglock.

Hell, my over used carbine works better than this brand new doglock.

Again, suggestions?

Yes, Dogge... I did try a new flint. Still didn't work.

~Lady B

If you don't think you can harden your frizzen yourself, you can always send the lock to Blair at Loyalist Arms (see website). He will fix whatever ails it. Fixed mine.

Crudbeard

[Guest]

I'll let Patrick address filing.

But I also put forth a word of caution as to modifying pieces that you're not financially ready to mend, fix or replace.

Be Warned.....What I did could have broken the spring.... I used vice-grips to compress the frizzen spring so I could remove it... there was a gouge where the toe of the frizzen wore into the top of the spring, so I carefully filed the top and some of the bend of the spring off until it wasn't as stiff.... I figured that the spring already was messed up, so if I broke it and had to replace it, that wasn't a problem.... It worked for me, but may not for someone else....

[LadyBarbossa]

Hmmm....

Damnit, Patrick, why did you have to be so far away.

I'm looking at my doglock right now. This is still a new pistol and barely used, I've only attempted to fire it at one event. Again, hence my flint shattered on me with no shot fired after the "click click click".

What did you use to file the frizzen spring down with? Need to see if I have it. How much did you file off and how much was left, etc. I don't want to screw this up. nigh $300 pistol... I don't want to waste my coinage for this loverly pistol.

~Lady B

[Commodore Swab]

I've always wanted a reliable flintlock and have been learning more and more as I work towards my goal. Everything done with $ in mind. My first attemt was purchasing a lock off ebay as well as the remains of a kit. All told this set me back about $70, once I got it all together I found that while I was able to get it to fire once in a while it definatly went click most every time. Since I've let it get old and weathered such that many have thought it was original A little while backI was with the viceroy at the marine flea market and found a flintlock there. His story (viceroy) was that the lock was original, one of many that had been found in a wharehouse and then the pistol was built (it looks ok to an untrained eye). Mentioning he had 2 of them (which is why he knew the story) he assured me the lock would work great and it was good . . .

After getting home and ordering flints I was anxious to try,just to at least spark to make sure it worked. Im sure you can guess what happened

NO SPARK

We got out one of his pistols (same pistol, same lock) and sure enough his sparked good, the main differences being the tension on the frizzen and how it moved. Replacing frizzen springs accomplished nothing. Once we put his frizzen on mine though, sparks. Obviously I need to get some compound here and harden the frizzen. Most likely this is all that would need to be done on the other lock as well.

When comparing guns and doing some reading I have figured that it is also important to allow the frizzen ride smoothly on the spring. If both are polished this works best so I have polished them and this is how I do it.

Take a dremel or similar tool and use the bit that has the threaded screw for holding grinding discs etc. Take an old (or new if you dont have an old one) sanding belt from a belt sander (use a finer grain). Take the screw from your bit and push it thru the sanding belt. Now take a buffing pad (the larger soft one not the sewn one) and push the screw thru it. Take an old pair of scissors and using the buffing pad as a pattern cut the sand paper into a disc. Take this piece now (screw, sandpaper and buffing pad) and screw into the bit on your dremel. The belt sander paper holds up the best and the buffing pad gives it strength and flexibility. Now you are ready to go, work on a lower speed and keep the sanding moving at all times. Using this you can smooth out casting marks, grooves, or anything else you might want. When you get it done (you will need to replace the sandpaper from time to time) do the same thing using 220 or 320 wetordry paper. You have to be more careful working with this though as the paper is not nearly as stong as the belt sander paper.

I have dont this to both of my locks and whenyou finish you can have a beautifully smooth lock ready for your weathering. Polishing the top of the frizzen spring and bottom of the frizzen will make the action so much smoother without harming the spring.

[theM.A.dDogge]

Hmmm....

Damnit, Patrick, why did you have to be so far away.

I'm looking at my doglock right now. This is still a new pistol and barely used, I've only attempted to fire it at one event. Again, hence my flint shattered on me with no shot fired after the "click click click".

What did you use to file the frizzen spring down with? Need to see if I have it. How much did you file off and how much was left, etc. I don't want to screw this up. nigh $300 pistol... I don't want to waste my coinage for this loverly pistol.

~Lady B

is yur dog a MSVillage or a Loyalist??...i believe both will re-harden yur frizen....that should be yur first...well first try another flint....then second try re-harden yu frizzen...messin with yur springs should be last