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stays and other female costume questions...


withoutaname

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Ah... Now why didn't I think of that. *tehe* Thank you so much. I'm going to rip out my most recent attempt. About how wide do you make the edging? I feel like mine is too wide and that is part of the problem.

Thanks again for the help!

I originally started with the wider .5" tape, thinking that would give the nicer edge. My most recent stays, which I am the most happy with, use the narrow .25" tape, which is a much nicer finished edge, as there is not as much tape to work through the turns (which is where the problems usually were for me).

I had tried pinning the entire thing, as Chole suggested ~ having gone through different trials each time, I found I didn't need to pin everything when using the narrow tape and hand stitching, (which is a huge time savings) to still achieve a neat finished edge in a reasonable amount of time.

I had used the same method as Lady Constance on my second pair of stays, but still didn't like the way the tape laid, and it was a unbelievable test of patience to weave the stays back and forth through the sewing machine.

It took me as long to hand sew the binding on the fourth stays as it did to pin and machine stitch the front, then hand stitch the back on the second pair of stays. Not to mention the hand sewn one looks so much better.

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Oooh, shiny!

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I guess it all depends on what you're most comfortable with. I've tried them all.

For speed, I've done Lady Constance's suggested method more than once when I was under the gun. It works wonderfully.

I have also pinned the snot out of them too. This give you a wonderful period correct look and is also wonderful for perfecting your hand stitching. You're just going to need a ton of pins.

I find that using the smaller binding tape (bias or dutch) you will get a better 'finished look to your stays without the trim showing too much. I'm sure they will look wonderful once they are completed!

and again...we all love to see the finish product!!!

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I still say hand sewing is the way to go, after all tis what they did. Those tabs were not designed with the thought of passing the garment through the average home sewing machine.. Now an industrial machine should give you more room to play, but still hand sewing allows you to shape and adjust the look of the tape and tab all the time, and no pins they just get in the way ....


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

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http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Yes, I am going with the hand stitching. I picked up some thinner tape today and I am going to take bits of everyone's advice... I'll take pictures. I'm hoping to have time to work on it tonight but I have quite a bit of homework that has been neglected. *le sigh* silly education getting in the way of my fun.

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

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Hehehehe... this is where I gave up on making another pair and will have somoene make another one for me when I get some extra coinage.

~Lady B

Tempt Fate! an' toss 't all t' Hell!"

"I'm completely innocent of whatever crime I've committed."

The one, the only,... the infamous!

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Ta-da!

I still have three tabs to finish but that's it! Do they look funny to any of you? They appear to fit alright (without the lacing in yet).

thoughts? I'm fairly pleased. I will never play with cordouroy again though.

100_1545.jpg

oh. And these are my helpers:

100_1544.jpg

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders

www.myspace.com/faerienoodle

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Ta-da!

I still have three tabs to finish but that's it! Do they look funny to any of you? They appear to fit alright (without the lacing in yet).

thoughts? I'm fairly pleased. I will never play with cordouroy again though.

100_1545.jpg

oh. And these are my helpers:

Looking sharp!

Your poor helpers look all worn out... :rolleyes:

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Oh. And these are my helpers:

100_1544.jpg

Well it is obvious that these two were supervising your every move. Guess you worked them to complete mental exhaustion.

Just look at the one on stage left she’s just drooling over your fine work.

Very nice, LadyBrower! Very nice, indeed!

Edited by Cheeky Actress

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haha, yea. Lucy (the bulldog) was on pin detail. She decided to jump up onto the couch and when I tried to get her off the stays without her getting stuck she fought me and "found" some pins in her rear... But otherwise I think she felt they were quite comfortable...

And I thank you for your compliments. =)

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders

www.myspace.com/faerienoodle

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All done!

100_1552.jpg

Pay no attention to the "chemise" its just my night-gown, I didn't feel like digging out the chemise. I'm a little concerned about how low it is- there's quite a bit of cleavage. *eek*

Any suggestions for this one or the future?

I managed to get in it, and lace it myself... Getting back out was the problem.

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders

www.myspace.com/faerienoodle

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All done!

Pay no attention to the "chemise" its just my night-gown, I didn't feel like digging out the chemise. I'm a little concerned about how low it is- there's quite a bit of cleavage. *eek*

Any suggestions for this one or the future?

I managed to get in it, and lace it myself... Getting back out was the problem.

Uhm, how to say this without sounding wrong.. uhmm... Well, there's no way... Cleavage is fine for this period, if you look at period paintings and fashion plates, cleavage is shown in moderation. Now also keep in mind that showing some décollatage (that's French for cleavage) is okay, practical haning out of your clothes was generally not done.... Make sense?

They look great on you, they look like they fit well. Greta job!

Edited by michaelsbagley
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Thanks. =)

I was worried they were too short or something. I must confess it is a very comfortable (and supportive) garment.

...I may trade iin Victoria's secret for this. lol

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders

www.myspace.com/faerienoodle

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I would bring the next pair up a bit...in this picture they look as if they are sitting too low on the bust


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Aye as long as the waist still sits in the right place...If she pulls the waist up to cover more of the bust, then they are just too short


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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A Very Nicely Done first attempt, Lady Brower!

I second the Captain's thoughts ~ the upper cut (turn) of the tab at your sides should sit right on the top of your hipbone. From there, cradle your bosom so they are slightly raised ~ the upper part of the stays should cross roughly at (or somewhat above) your personals. Once you have worn these for a full weekend, you will have a better feeling for what needs adjusting (such as the arm scythes ~ the underarm area). I personally adjusted the lower back tabs in length and width, to provide better lower back support for when I am carrying guns and such up front.

MDtrademarkFinal-1.jpg

Oooh, shiny!

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ok, connie just finished her stays tonite..... like i said, ok, we made some mistakes... the next pair will be better...

other than ending up looking like a cardboard tube shape, what else needs improvement ??

is my thinking correct in that the pattern used by lady brower gives more of a vee shape, or do we need to modify our cut a bit ?? it looks like it is placed on the hip correctly, but what about the heighth at the top ?? too tall ??

yeah, we screwed up the tabs, so cut them off for this set :)

DSCN1160.jpg

DSCN1161.jpg

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butterick 4254.........for pattern pieces, but bone them GaoP........

but hey-------- medieval ages here i come!! LOL!! ROTLOL!!

ACTUALLY I HAVE A SPARE money--- anyone need any money?

lady brower... want some more money? { go ahead use machine for mine!!} YOUR LOOK WAYYYYYYYYYY BETTER THAN MINE... and send me some cleavage/de'cotellage too......... LOL.....

now if i can find where silas put the jacket pic's..........

lady constance

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Your constuction is very neatly done ~ and the "tube" shape is close to approriate for GAoP (more like a cone).

~ From a quick review, the front center top appears higher than the sides, which looks a bit odd, but might just be the camera angle? Did you go without a busk in the front, to make it a bit more flexible for cooking?

~ Vertical back boning at the eyelets will provide better support.

~ The underarm scythes, at that height, concern me. I am afraid they are going to dig in ~ which can be extremely uncomfortable, if not painful.

I am unsure which other suggestions to make, without knowing the look you were going for, but hope these were helpful.

MDtrademarkFinal-1.jpg

Oooh, shiny!

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A few things I have done with stays in the past and I had the lass who did Salty's jumps do for us;

1. I usually use buckskin instead of bias tape as I have taken from what some of the extant examples used and hand sew it into place, cutting strips about 3/4 of an inch in width.

2. The fit is determined by the shape size and weight of the woman wearing them; often a woman of a more slight build will unfortunately have the more tube look in the stays.

3. for ease of entry and exit the practice of the hand-sewn grommets offset to accommodate spiral lacing rather than a crisscross pattern allows more simple egress from the stays.

While cleavage is a good thing (God knows I love to admire the delicacies of a lovely woman) too often it needs to be modified slightly to assure the proper fit of the garment for the period clothing that will be worn over the stays. Great first attempt and you should be proud of the results!! Don't despair but I suggest you try again and lengthen the torso by few inches or so. and who knows you may find another lass our here is just that much shorter waisted than yourself who might want to take this pair off your hands to assist in financing some other sewing projects for your period kit. Well done and keep up the good work and desire to get it right!!!!

Edited by callenish gunner
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