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stays and other female costume questions...


withoutaname

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the top in front appears to be a bit too high to me..... and yes m.d., the front top ended up not straight !!!

looking at the pics, yes--- under the arms needs to be cut down a bit....

i think with this pattern, the cut needs to be a hair different to give it a cone shape... ours turned out to be more tubular than cone :)

we did spiral lace it --- don't use leather ( only thing we found ) it doesn't like to slip thru the eyelets easily... yes they were hand sewn :)

adding more boning in the back does sound like a good idea..

oh, well... on to the second set ....

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Very lovely stays, ladies! I'm highly impressed! May call upon one of ye t' make me a pair some day. LOVE th' coloring.

My old and current stays look like Kate's old ones but no shoulder straps, no binding, laces up the back and front and horribly, horribly, very horribly worn to the point they have been to Hell twice and the Devil tossed them back out cause they were that horrible! Just imagine Kate's old pair run over by three steam engines. LOL, perhaps time for an Extreme Makeover: Stays Edition. :P

~Lady B

Tempt Fate! an' toss 't all t' Hell!"

"I'm completely innocent of whatever crime I've committed."

The one, the only,... the infamous!

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Kate, your stays are so GORGEOUS, all I can do is stare. just beautiful...

Of course, I have another question...

Now that I have one and (3/4?) stays done, I want to make the RH711 front lacing stays, and I was hoping to try the busk thing... If I understand the pattern correctly, the stomacher is separate, yes? Can I still put a busk in it or does that not work so well... I thought it would but I thought I would ask for some feedback before I did anything rash. =)

As always, I thank you for your help!

Oh, here's a picture of the progress on my latest set for my friend:

100_1566.jpg

She's a tiny little thing... lol. We had to cut down the smallest version of the pattern by several inches in the bust and shorten it... Poor girl

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

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Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

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In looking at the pattern, yes, it does look like the stomacher is separate. I have not tried the front lacing stays yet (though I do have a lovely bit of pale blue linen that I want to do them in), so I will be completely honest and state that I have NO idea about how it all works. If I feel a bit better later, I will bust out the pattern and see if I can't get a feel for it. Or maybe Mickey can help when he gets home from work.

I have Cheeky's stomach bug....not sure how I caught it from like 500 miles away.... :D

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Now that I have one and (3/4?) stays done, I want to make the RH711 front lacing stays, and I was hoping to try the busk thing... If I understand the pattern correctly, the stomacher is separate, yes? Can I still put a busk in it or does that not work so well... I thought it would but I thought I would ask for some feedback before I did anything rash. =)

From what I have seen/read/heard, front lacing stays cannot accomodate a GAoP busk. Victorian era corsets had split metal busks, with integral closures.

The stomacher is usually a separate triangular piece of material, usually nicer/fancier (silk, embroidered, etc.) than the stays, pinned or laced in place.

Please pay careful attention to the angle of the boning in the stays ~ vertical boning will lean towards a tube shape, angled boning will lean towards a cone shape.

MDtrademarkFinal-1.jpg

Oooh, shiny!

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*****************************

Please Note I have started a separate thread ~

Stays ~ It All Starts with the Right Foundation

This thread shows images of GAoP period stays patterns and stays. Especially helpful are the diagrams showing boning angles, to achieve the proper cone form.

*****************************

MDtrademarkFinal-1.jpg

Oooh, shiny!

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Of course, I have another question...

Now that I have one and (3/4?) stays done, I want to make the RH711 front lacing stays, and I was hoping to try the busk thing... If I understand the pattern correctly, the stomacher is separate, yes? Can I still put a busk in it or does that not work so well... I thought it would but I thought I would ask for some feedback before I did anything rash. =)

As always, I thank you for your help!

I don't know as to whether the original front laced stays had busks or not (but I would trust Mary, she has never steered anyone wrong that I know of)...

But I believe it is possible to make front lacing stays with a busk. My understanding of the "View B" stays from RH711 is that basically they are sewn as one solid tube(with the stomacher seperate) and the lacing holes are done in such a manner that they pull the edges of the front panel together together.

V&Astayssm.jpg

Perhaps this image will make it more clear. The reason I think a busk could be used (whether accurate or not is another matter) is the panel under the lacing is straight and flat and really could accomodate it (in my best guess without havign tried it).

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Regarding the Pink V&A stays the busk is in a separate piece... the stomacher which, in this case, is held in place under the lacing..

I have read some info on front and back laced stays (one garment) but in that case there is no solid busk unless it is in a separate stomacher like the Pink stays


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

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http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Now that I have one and (3/4?) stays done, I want to make the RH711 front lacing stays, and I was hoping to try the busk thing... If I understand the pattern correctly, the stomacher is separate, yes? Can I still put a busk in it or does that not work so well... I thought it would but I thought I would ask for some feedback before I did anything rash. =)

From what I have seen/read/heard, front lacing stays cannot accomodate a GAoP busk. Victorian era corsets had split metal busks, with integral closures.

The stomacher is usually a separate triangular piece of material, usually nicer/fancier (silk, embroidered, etc.) than the stays, pinned or laced in place.

Please pay careful attention to the angle of the boning in the stays ~ vertical boning will lean towards a tube shape, angled boning will lean towards a cone shape.

I am a little confused... with the front lacing "view b" stays, it looks like the stomacher is at least boned, which to me makes sense, otherwise belly fat can bulge through (I have a ren-faire "fairie" bodice that does this when I try to leave a gap in it). Did most of the stomachers that are positioned behind the front lacing unboned?

Sorry. I'm just confuzzled.

Oh, and thank you for the note about the angle of the boning, I appreciate it. =)

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

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delete

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Damn I will have to rescan and type the wording


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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It is indeed boned and the V&A refers to it as a busk, which may mean the entire stomacher. as the center piece does look wider but not by much. The script does state that these stays were made for a very small person... perhaps a child ? perhaps in which case they were not ready to wear a full blown busk like older ladies? I have no idea at this present time

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Thank you all for posting this information. I plan on attempting this one myself. From start to finished. I don't have the RH pattern, therefore I plan on useing the Waugh pattern and Stays Generator to help with the perfect fit.

The 'Lay-Out' of the reed channels are a HUGE help, Captain. Thank you! And Mary. I get a better understand of the 'cone' appearence now. We all want that perfect figure...right?

Any quick hints/helps that anyone can give before I start?

Thanks again Everyone!

Edited by Cheeky Actress

photo-2975.jpg?__rand=0.71617700+1286403
Member of "The Forsaken"

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I have some cream silk brocade which I will be making a pair out of for Sarah. It will be interesting to see how all the different versions turn out.


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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THANK YOU captain! Those close ups are extraordinarily helpful. Now all those tiny channels(?) are they boning channels, they seem awfully close together, especially compared to the stomacher. The line drawing helps, though I tried to save it so I could zoom in, but it wouldn't work. :-(

I used the reconstructing history pattern and the stays generator to get a better fit, I was a little confused as to how to make the front open like that, and still have the shoulder strap part so I basically just cut out "V" from the center front, as it appeared the bottom of the front laced together. I thought it would still have a nice look. I hope it is "acceptable."

I think I will try the busk in the stomacher. With my length the extra support is probably a good idea.

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders

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I am going to try and rescan those images later and repost...


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Ye know...thanks to Jack, these pink stays might be a bit too early for the GAoP... they are dated 1660-1670


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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snigger...now yer thinking! So Mickey will ye be the first in petticote breeches?

Edited by Capt. Sterling


"I being shot through the left cheek, the bullet striking away great part of my upper jaw, and several teeth which dropt down the deck where I fell... I was forced to write what I would say to prevent the loss of blood, and because of the pain I suffered by speaking."~ Woodes Rogers

Crewe of the Archangel

http://jcsterlingcptarchang.wix.com/creweofthearchangel#

http://creweofthearchangel.wordpress.com/

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Hmmm.. makes one think an' wonder... a lass in Gent's breeches wearin' that and some fine linen shirt or chemise with silk stockin's an' fine period shoes?

Oooo.. damnit! There ye gents go... findin' awesome stuff t' take a lady's mind away to thoughts of wild dressing!

~Lady B

Tempt Fate! an' toss 't all t' Hell!"

"I'm completely innocent of whatever crime I've committed."

The one, the only,... the infamous!

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Hmmm.. makes one think an' wonder... a lass in Gent's breeches wearin' that and some fine linen shirt or chemise with silk stockin's an' fine period shoes?

Oooo.. damnit! There ye gents go... findin' awesome stuff t' take a lady's mind away to thoughts of wild dressing!

~Lady B

tee hee. I actually had (bad) thoughts of making some breeches of the same cream silk I'm making those stays of just for play (you know, if I want to strip down and do some sword play-eek) Obviously not so PC, but fun. =) I may even skip the hat! How scandalous! Of course it would probably never make it to an event. Maybe a dress-up party...

Cook and Seamstress to the Half Moon Marauders

Lady Brower's Treasures, Clothing and other treasures

Hell Hath No Fury like the Wrath of a Woman... No that's it. She doesn't need a reason.

www.myspace.com/halfmoonmarauders

www.myspace.com/faerienoodle

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