Your Garb

[Patrick Hand]

OK... we have a thread in Rabble Rousing about posting a picture of you in your garb..... but now we are discussing other garb subjects.....

Cheeky Actress's stays look great.... and we have been discussing many aspect of them..... but You in your Garb should be for posting pictures of...... well... You in your garb.... not other (garb) stuff)

So I figured we needed a thread just for how you made parts or all of your garb....

AND FOR BOTH THE HOLOLYWOOD AND AUTHENTIC PYRATES......

if it is nessicary for another thread for authentic pyrate garb.... heck... we can do that in Twill..... I figure that period stuff is good information for Hollywood Pyrates... and sewing trick can be helpfull for everyone...

Only one rule fer this thread.....

Everyone has to play nice.......

OK... I should explain, that I'm one of the authentics.... I'm working on making my garb/clothing as period as possible for a scummy common pyrate..... but I do take some shortcuts....... I machine sew the unseen seams.... then hand sew the ones you can see..... I set my own standards.... If you don't meet my standards... do I look down on you ?..... No Way.... I do it because for me it's fun... and I have the time to do so.... not everyone does.....

Hollywood/Fantacy Pyrates and Authentics are not fighting each other.... we are just different sides of the same coin..... (cute line... huh... )

So tips... how-to... and anything about your garb is welcome.......

[Salty]

Good call Mr. Hand................

As a neopyhte to both pyracy and sewing clothes it has been most interesting and helpful to read through the posts and see what others have accomplished.

Cheers,

Salty

and i promise to play nice

(oh wait.......pirate)

[callenish gunner]

AMEN BROTHER!!!

I TOO TRY TO TAKE SOME SHORTCUTS BUT I ALSO TRY TO EXPLORE OUTSIDE THE CONFINES OF STRICTLY ENGLISH FASHION OF THE PERIOD ....SAILORS WERE TRAVELERS WE WOULD HAVE BEEN EXPOSED TO MORE THAN JUST ENGLISH TRENDS OF THE DAY

[Patrick Hand]

I guess sence I started this thread, I should post something that I made....

Last week I finished a pair of trousers..... they are made from hemp (For my birthday, Tales of The Seven Seas gave me a huge gift certificate to buy fabric with...... cool huh...) anyway... they are made from hemp, machine sewn, but hand finished with linen thread..... and some pewter buttons from another pair of breaches......

and a close-up of one of the pockets and the French fly....

[blackbonie]

AMEN BROTHER!!!

I TOO TRY TO TAKE SOME SHORTCUTS BUT I ALSO TRY TO EXPLORE OUTSIDE THE CONFINES OF STRICTLY ENGLISH FASHION OF THE PERIOD ....SAILORS WERE TRAVELERS WE WOULD HAVE BEEN EXPOSED TO MORE THAN JUST ENGLISH TRENDS OF THE DAY

yes thanks.i too beleive that having some stuff french,some indian,etc, would be perfectly plausable.i even like to explore a broader time frame- since pirates have existed as long as boats have.(i know this forum isnt about them tho)

i dont think im well liked here for some reason tho because when i post pics i get no response.lol

[Maggie Crowe]

Wow, Mr. Hand, the trousers are wonderful! Did you use a pattern, and if so, which one?

I bought an Alter Years pattern, planning on sewing this weekend, but having never made pants before, I was completely confused by the pattern.

[Jack Roberts]

So Patrick, when you say non visible seams are machine sewn, what do you consider non visible seams? On something like the breeches, it looks like just about everything is hand sewn. If you can use those pants as an example that would help me to understand.

Also I would like to try and a machine stitch that could simulate a hand sewn one. Now that would be cool.

Thanks

[jessie k.]

Those are cool pockets! And you've got very neat stitches; most people don't have the patience for that. Can I ask, how do you finish the inside raw edges; do you leave them as is, French roll them, or just do a double seam? Or something else? I've been trying different things lately, just to see what works best.

[Jack Roberts]

Can I ask, how do you finish the inside raw edges; do you leave them as is, French roll them, or just do a double seam? Or something else?

Yeah good question, it looks like it might be a flat felled seam but without Patrick here to tell us we may never know.

[Cheeky Actress]

Just lovely, Patrick. Amen about the stitch work...is it done in contrasting thread?

[Capt. Sterling]

I think Kass usually recommends flat felled or french seams for the insides of linen garments, unless you are lining the garment... she also has a list included in her patterns that teaches you all the proper period stitches that were used if you do not wish to use the machine... If you can't afford all her patterns, I still highly recommend purchasing at least one for the stitching instructions alone... hmmm she should make a little booklet for sale with just that info....

[Patrick Hand]

For the pattern, I used the one that is on Gentleman of Foutune's page, the Justicorp and breaches pattern. I just don't taper the legs, but make them longer and looser for trousers.

The seams are all flat felled, except for the inside of the pockets that are blanket stitched to keep them from unraveling.

I used unbleached linen thread to sew them with... so the thread is a little darker than the hemp....in the photo the contrast really stands out.... but they aren't that bad in person....

[blackbonie]

Also I would like to try and a machine stitch that could simulate a hand sewn one. Now that would be cool.

Thanks

the closest i get by machine is just using the largest stitch.hand-sewing that is done neatly would resemble that.

my black coat is entirely hand sticthed-even the lining,and the red one is moslty hand stitched.

[Capt. Sterling]

Hmmm I would beg to differ... and since I argue with everyone else here, what the heck... There is a very good book out Historical Fashion in Detail The 17th and 18th centuries, by Avril Hart and Susan North... you'd be surprised how fine some of the stitches truly are.. and all pictured are original garments...

[Silkie McDonough]

Wonderful Patrick.

I confess, I use a machine for almost everything but the hem. Some day that may change.

Now, as to sailors and traveling I like to build the story behind some of my choices.

For example:

On the Watch Dog my character (Murin McDonough) was found on LaBanquilla, a desert island. That island is also owned by the crew of the Watch Dog. Black lizard is one of the critters found there. Last year I happened to buy some leather goods cheap, in the very large box there were several black lizard hides. Putting one and one together, I am going to use the black lizard hide in my kit AND I can have a story behind the item.

It is no worse than explaining that the tortoise shell hair comb in my hair is my great grandmothers ...which it is.

[blackbonie]

Hmmm I would beg to differ... and since I argue with everyone else here, what the heck... There is a very good book out Historical Fashion in Detail The 17th and 18th centuries, by Avril Hart and Susan North... you'd be surprised how fine some of the stitches truly are.. and all pictured are original garments...

but im sure not every garment was made with the exact same care. fancier ,more expensive clothes probably had finer stitching than very plain peasanty clothes.thats how it is today even

[Patrick Hand]

Poor people sewed thier clothing with fine stitches also..... it had to last....

[blackbonie]

Poor people sewed thier clothing with fine stitches also..... it had to last....

i guess what i mean is just smaller or larger stitches.ive hand sewed things with large stitches that hold up just as well as small stitches,just with topstitching it would look different. i admit i dont know half as much about the historical stuff as alot of you guys tho.

[Jacky Tar]

I think Patrick was sayin', that the poor might not hav the fancy cloth but the workmanship was still very good. After all, it was often the poor folk wot' sewed the clothin' fer the wealthy.

[blackbonie]

I think Patrick was sayin', that the poor might not hav the fancy cloth but the workmanship was still very good. After all, it was often the poor folk wot' sewed the clothin' fer the wealthy.

very true. i didnt quite think of that

[Black Syren]

Lord knows I do NOT sew well though i try. My grandmother could look at a picture or a dress in a window come home make her own pattern and sew it and it looked just as good. *Now I wish i had paid more attention* a lot of the sewing she did was by hand and her stitches were very small.

Id have to say that stitches even for a poor person would have to be just as good for a wealthy person because their clothes did have to hold up longer than the wealthy. And from all the repeated patchings, handing garments too little to others,so that they had to be hemmed or taken in or loosened, the stitches had to be small so they would not show all the repeated work...though eventually the more repaired a garment was the more likely to show it's repairings.

That is just my worthless two cents.

[Silkie McDonough]

My garb? My garb. Weeeeeeeel, I'd say being a lady pirate I tend towards "Hollythentic" Depending on the weather and which way the wind is blowing and what the alignment of the stars are ...I mean if stars like Johnny Dep and Kera Nightingly are aligned just so ...you get Hollywood!

[Capt. Sterling]

Right here in plunder, is a stickied thread about basic hand stitching by Kass... If you wish to learn the historical side... read that.....

[HildeKitten]

Oh wow those are really cool!

Any pics of you wearing them so we can see the complete trousers also?

[Capt. Sterling]

dang sorry meant for projects thread...