Bodices...

[BluePuppy]

What places would you guys suggest for buying one? Or patterns for making one?

I'm working on putting together (edit) a better costume, while it may not be accurate, and any suggestions and/or personal experiences/references would be appreciated

thanks!

[Silkie McDonough]

Depends upon what you are looking to do. If you are looking for authenticity then you would dress as a woman. Perhaps a Sutler a merchant or the like. If you want to be a pyrate. Here too you must address if you want to be a man or a woman passing as a man, either way you don't need a bodice. Finally there is the fantasy pirate. this is where a woman can be a woman pyrate and dress as a woman.

If you need a bodice and are a female pyrate in female clothing any bodice will do, buy what you like becaust it isn't "period correct".

If you want additional information on authenticity be sure to check out "Captain Twill"

[BluePuppy]

hmmm

then i'd be a "fantasy pirate" either way then

eh well

thanks much

i'd prefer to dress as a chick, so i'll just beeee a chick =p

maybe i'll make up a male persona later

[Maggie Crowe]

McCalls has a few good patterns for bodices. Unfortunately, I can't remember the number because my dog chewed up the pattern.

HOWEVER, I just made my own pattern for a cincher (bodice, no sleeves) that worked wonderfully, and it fits perfectly. If you'd like instructions, let me know.

Here's the one I made, and the vest I made afterwards:

I'm not one hundred percent happy with the vest, but considering it's the first time I've ever made a pattern, and lined something, pattern or no, it's not completely horrible.

[BluePuppy]

i'd say it turned out rather well :)

it would be the first time i'd done a large scale sewing project, too, so "good work!"

i would very much like instructions :)

thanks!

[Maggie Crowe]

Well, first, to get the initial pattern to fit right, I made a t-shirt and duct tape pattern using these instructions. I used freezer paper to transfer the pattern to, rather than pellon, and that seemed to work just fine.

Remember when you pick out fabric, that you want something 100% natural (cotton, silk, linen, etc.) ... any polyester or somesuch, and you'll overheat, and I mean FAST.

I'll write up more on boning and lining later, I need to take the little pirate to school.

[Maggie Crowe]

either way you don't need a bodice.

I'm not sure that's 100% true. I just read 'Seafaring Women', and at least some women wore, well, a corset (which is basically what my cincher is) to flatten themselves to look more like a man.

[Silkie McDonough]

either way you don't need a bodice.

I'm not sure that's 100% true. I just read 'Seafaring Women', and at least some women wore, well, a corset (which is basically what my cincher is) to flatten themselves to look more like a man.

Aye, that would make sense.

[Maggie Crowe]

Alright, once you have your pattern (and don't forget to add seam allowance), you're going to need three layers of fabric. Outside, inside, and an interior inner lining, where you're boning is going to go.

For boning, I used duct ties. Like cable ties, only thicker and a bit wider (about 3/8"). These work nicely, since you can trim them to any size, and they're less likely to poke through your fabric.

You're going to want to lay out the boning on either side of the grommets, then, depending on how much support you want, some on the inside, in a fan shape. The back of my cincher is one solid piece, so I have four pieces of boning, excluding the boning around the grommets:

In the front, I only added the one piece in the center, and I wish I had added one more, for better support:

Sew your innerlining to the back piece, then mark out where you want your boning. Sew channels for your boning, making sure to leave enough room for your grommets. I suggest buying your grommets ahead of time so you can see how much room you'll really need.

Sew your top piece on along the sides and the bottom. I say bottom, because your chemise/shirt will blouse a bit over the top of the cincher, so it will hide any hand stitching, if that's something you're worried about.

Turn the pieces and slide in the boning.

Turn your seam allowance on the top to the inside, then whip stitch the top closed, or if you're not picky, machine sew it closed close to the fold.

I realize this aren't exact instructions, since I was pretty much making it up as I went along. So, any questions?

[BluePuppy]

i'll probably wind up staying on the fantasy side of things =p as my "frilly tomboy" personality is demanding... haha

ANYWAY, i think i can follow your instructions, miss crow :) i'd never have thought to use duct ties for boning thanks again :)

[HildeKitten]

i'll probably wind up staying on the fantasy side of things =p as my "frilly tomboy" personality is demanding... haha

ANYWAY, i think i can follow your instructions, miss crow :) i'd never have thought to use duct ties for boning thanks again :)

"frilly tomboy", I know that one :)

Another alternative for boning is basket reed ^^

You could of course always go for a pair of stays, you can use those in both fantasy pirate costumes and reenactment, that's what I'm going to do :)

[Salty]

Although questions posed about making them, is there a set correct way to lace and fit them?

Ye ships potter,

Salty

[Maggie Crowe]

I think it's personal preference, but this is an interesting link

I prefer to lace mine bottom to top, as it's easier to adjust and fluff when I'm doing it myself. It's always preferable to have a lacing assistant, though, for several reasons

I think the best way to get the best fit is to do the t-shirt/duct tape method I linked to in an earlier post on this thread. It's certainly the best fit I've ever gotten.

If you're buying and need to tell someone your size, for larger ladies, using the rib cage measurement seems to work better than your standard bra size.

Whichever, make sure to inhale while lacing up, or you could find yourself fainting halfway through the day.

[BluePuppy]

stays are another thing i was thinking about, any places you'd particularly recommend on those?

[Maggie Crowe]

Stays on Jas-Townsend website

This is basically the same thing as my cincher. I made mine long enough, that I could wear it both ways, under breast, or just over, like a traditional stays

[BluePuppy]

thanks much for the link :)

[CrazyCholeBlack]

I'd recommend that if you're getting stays and intend to wear them for any length of time (more than for a day at the faire) and if you intend to actually *do* anything while wearing those stays (carry water, cook, set up a tent etc) either making them yourself or getting a custom made pair from someone like Reconstructing History

When it comes to lacing I'm a life time member of the spiral lacing club. http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/laci...ing/lacing.html . Of course your garment has to be set up for spiral lacing which most aren't. You could spiral lace an X laced garment, but it wouldn't work quite as well.

You can of course completely ignore anything I say when it comes to doing a "pyrate wench" outfit. Those I know nothing about

[Salty]

thank ye for said input and links.......as to any lacing club well should like to be as proper for time as can be.........

[BluePuppy]

I'd recommend that if you're getting stays and intend to wear them for any length of time (more than for a day at the faire) and if you intend to actually *do* anything while wearing those stays (carry water, cook, set up a tent etc) either making them yourself or getting a custom made pair from someone like Reconstructing History

When it comes to lacing I'm a life time member of the spiral lacing club. http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/laci...ing/lacing.html . Of course your garment has to be set up for spiral lacing which most aren't. You could spiral lace an X laced garment, but it wouldn't work quite as well.

You can of course completely ignore anything I say when it comes to doing a "pyrate wench" outfit. Those I know nothing about

the corset on that festive attyre page is lovely... i've got quite an affinity for corsets...

anyway thanks for the tips! :) i was looking at the reconstructing history website last night

[HildeKitten]

stays are another thing i was thinking about, any places you'd particularly recommend on those?

I can heartily recommend Reconstructing History

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/

They actually sell bodies and stays, but also patterns for them if you want to make them yourself.

I have 3 patterns from them and I LOVE them to death, very easy to work with, come with historical notes on the garment and very clear explications.

Plus if you get stuck, you can always mail Kass and she'll help you out ^^

EDIT: I just noticed I got beaten to it on recommending RH

[BluePuppy]

can't afford the stays, buuuut i caaan afford the pattern

and so shall it be =p well, we'll see when i get paid...

[Rogue Mermaid]

I have six bodices:

Three I made usuing a pattern (I'll check who the pattern was by when I get home). It was time consuming, but I'm happy with the results. If you hit JoAnn's fabrics at the right time they sell patterns for 99¢ each.

One I bought from a seller on ebay called Sewin Wench (I might have spelled that wrong). The quality was very good and it only put me back $40.

One I saved up for and bought from Ravenswood Leather:

http://www.ravenswoodleather.com/

It wasn't cheap! However, I wear it often, I think it's my favorite.

The final was supposed to be worn as part of a bridesmaids dress for a medevil wedding that didn't happen. I used it though and the price was good. I wish I could remember the woman's name!

[Maggie Crowe]

One I saved up for and bought from Ravenswood Leather:

http://www.ravenswoodleather.com/

It wasn't cheap! However, I wear it often, I think it's my favorite.

Ooh, pricey, but I LOVE that Saberist's Bodice. I'm coveting their baldrics too, me captain may be getting one of those for Christmas

[Honour Bright]

I usually wear a leather waist cincher with a blouse and tights. The waist cincher can also go over a red dress I have.

OK, so it might not be all that piratey, but I love the look.

I made this a few years ago for our pirate festival, only wore it once but paired it with a skirt that was hitched up in the front.

It is red/silver/gold brocade.

*should have raked up those leaves, I guess*

[Jack Roberts]

Ooohhhh!! Pretty brocade, like the colors.