Jump to content

Silver

Member
  • Posts

    347
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Silver

  1. Either way you aren't going to be carrying charges around in it (from a safety standpoint) even when firing. To keep up with the pace of things you are going to want to be able to quickly pick up a single charge carry it over and load your gun. Not place itinto a bag walk a couple feet and then pull it out of the bag.

    i know what you are saying, but everytime we shoot the cw gun(12pdr dalgerhen boat howizter) we always use a pouch to transfer the charge from the ammo box to the loader #2 man . there are some things you have to do for safety. i would use it for every shot.

  2. There are a couple of questions regarding what you want in a pass box or bag.

    What is the diameter of your bore, if it's small then a shoulder bag is probably appropriate, if it's larger, say something that wouldn't be comfortably carried over the shoulder then you want a pass box that is more like a lidded bucket.

    More than likely on ship you'd have used a pass box, on land a pass bag, not unlike US CW accessories.

    thanks for the input, you gave me the word that i had been looking for "pass box/bag/barrel/bucket" i have found several places on the net using those words. thanks agian.

  3. my cannon project is coming along and it is getting to the point of adding small item to the operation of the gun. i have been searching the web and books for what was used to run the cannon cartridge to the gun crew for loading. i'm trying to look at the early 1700's time frame. the leather or wooden case seems to have surfaced in the mid to late 1700's, holding the cartridge under one coat was read in on book and i know about the ladel and bunge barrel or powder bag. i have been on CW naval guns i know the modern artillery rules "leather pouch". i would be thankful for any thoughts, referances or an old thread that i have missed even opinions. thanks

    Check this out.This will give you an idea what to shoot for..I've heard during the 1700's these pouches would hold 2 ro 4 cartridges. BAR only allows 2 cartridges to be carried at one time...http://cgi.ebay.com/RUSSIAN-IMPERIAL-ARTILLERY-AMO-CARTRIDGE-POUCH_W0QQitemZ270356598933QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef2825095&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

    thanks a lot for the input. that is a great looking ammo pouch, if i hit the right site that is a small arms or primer pouch worn by a gunner. i'm looking for the protective pouch or case carried by your powder boys, to get the cannon charge from the magazine to the gun deck. i know cannon cartridges were being used in the 1600's it is written as a responsiablity of the master gunner in "the sea-mens grammer" by john smith. again thanks.

  4. Is this the one that you got?

    http://www.hernironworks.com/cannons/feswivel2.jpg

    As for carriage are you building a more familiar english carriage or will you be building something more spanish which is easier since you would be able to use flat steel for the truniun caps instead of having to fabricate them. One bit of advice, I know some of their guns have had a problem with the cores floating while casting. The ones I have seen were cast using a core and were not bored out like the Viceroy does. If your core is good and strait you will have a nice little cannon.

    yes, that is the gun i have. i'm building in the english style, with a full bed. i have the transome, stool and quion to complete and then start bolting it all together. this "floating" thing concerns me. i did alot of checking around before i bought and all i heard was positive feed back about hearn. can you give me more details about what you have heard and how would you check something like that. thanks

  5. Just out of curisoity what is your cannon project? Most all I deal with is your various implements (swab, worm, ram) and powder box for safety sake.

    i bought a 1805 swivil gun from hearns iron works and i'm builting a 1700's style naval carriage to fit the gun. started in jan. hope to have it done by april but had to stop working on it to take care of other things.

  6. my cannon project is coming along and it is getting to the point of adding small item to the operation of the gun. i have been searching the web and books for what was used to run the cannon cartridge to the gun crew for loading. i'm trying to look at the early 1700's time frame. the leather or wooden case seems to have surfaced in the mid to late 1700's, holding the cartridge under one coat was read in on book and i know about the ladel and bunge barrel or powder bag. i have been on CW naval guns i know the modern artillery rules "leather pouch". i would be thankful for any thoughts, referances or an old thread that i have missed even opinions. thanks

  7. i have been doing some research on shipboard foods in the 1600's and have found two different list of what foods a captian needs to stow aboard for a cruise. each had rice on it. does anybody have a period recipe for rice?

  8. naval carriage update: found a drawing of a carriage in a rev war book i liked, it was narrow in the front and widen as it went aft also it had a wide wheel base but the cheeks narrowed as it supported the gun. got the graph paper out worked up a drawing then got some cardboard and built a full size mockup made changes here and there and by christmas had a workable plan. had some days off during christmas and new year and have been in the garage aka "ye old cannon shoppe" she isn't done yet but it is taking shape, i have axles, a bed and cheeks. nothing is bolted together yet. i need to make wheels, a stool and quoin and a transome for the forward end under the gun. with no wheels on it it is standing at 21 1/2" tall and it is 24" wide from axle end to axle end, and 28" from bow to stern. have taken pics and will post them when i get a chance. i went with 2" cheeks on it, better to over build then to be sorry later on.

  9. great looking guns, i like your design. i was stationed in the PI for 2yrs at subic bay in the late 70's. still have my bontoc war shield and a nice collection of bolo's. how is the san miguel?

    Why thank you sir ! I love these new cannon and am greatful for Wes to work on them for me. I have heard many a good story from sailors and airmen stationed in the PI ., most loved it ., however the military keeps one pretty busy and it doesnt leave one enough time to really enjoy alot of "Whats out there".

    bamcan.jpg

    I would like to take a moment however and say to you personally ., Thank You for your service L. Silver . 5.gif Because of the services I am free to do these cannon ! The San Miguel you say ., delicious as always ., however a little warm., sound familiar? 4.gif

    I just got a teaser from Wes ..., Muzzels. 2 Bronze and 2 Stainless.

    6-pack_012.jpg

    i am touch. your welcome. mean looking cannon crew you have there, that pic bring back memories. i had a good time there, did work alot, i was there during the iranian hostage thing. i worked outside for awhile never worked anywhere hotter and that rainy season was something.

  10. Thanks everyone ., I am just very grateful to see part of my dream coming around . I have alot to be thankful for this year. I believe Wes will be sending me a few muzzle shots soon. Also he made a mention of mill-pockets on the barrel for the trunnions ., sort of an after Thanks-Giving meal weekend ., so i'll be waiting myself with great anticipation. :D

    Rich

    great looking guns, i like your design. i was stationed in the PI for 2yrs at subic bay in the late 70's. still have my bontoc war shield and a nice collection of bolo's. how is the san miguel?

  11. Cool, Silver, building a cannon from scratch is very rewarding. I hope your working from plans, as some of the geometry of a carriage is important. like the little 'steps' on the rear of the cheeks - they were there to crowbar the cannon up into the right position to fire after the qoin had been properly set. If they are not just so, they look dopey and out of kilter.

    cheek thickness - are you making your own trunion caps? if so the thickness should be OK, but if your buying premade ones ( and Cannon Mania has some Nice bronze ones) the width of the caps should determine your cheek thickness.

    You can always over build your carriage, but should never under build it, especially if you plan on fireing live rounds.

    i made my own plans, though i am doing some adjustment to them now. i had planned on buying the wood for the carriage but a friend gave me these large pieces of oak. so i'm reworking the measurment so i can use it. thickness of the cheeks are my biggest concern now. i would like to fire live rounds from it. plan on making my own trunnion caps. i want the center line of the barrel to set about 21 to 22" off the deck.

  12. i'm getting ready to start work on a 1700 naval carriage, with soild deck. i'm building it to fit the hearn's 1805 swivel gun, it is 30'' long, weigths 90lbs, trunnions are 1 1/4", has a 1 3/4bore(golfball) will fire 2oz. of powder. i was able to get a couple of long pieces of white oak they are 2 1/2" thick, 6" wide and 6' long. i want to cut them to where they are 1 1/4" thick and use it for the cheeks to rest the trunnions in. my question is will it take the recoil at that width?

    Assuming the barrel is properly designed and proportioned, the thickness of the cheeks needs to be about the length of the trunnions. Any thicker than the length of the trunnions does you no good. Any thinner than the trunnion length is likely not going to be strong enough.

    >>>> Cascabel

    that's good news because that would be a match in wood and trunnion at 1 1/4". i had heard not to go thinner then 2".

  13. i'm getting ready to start work on a 1700 naval carriage, with soild deck. i'm building it to fit the hearn's 1805 swivel gun, it is 30'' long, weigths 90lbs, trunnions are 1 1/4", has a 1 3/4bore(golfball) will fire 2oz. of powder. i was able to get a couple of long pieces of white oak they are 2 1/2" thick, 6" wide and 6' long. i want to cut them to where they are 1 1/4" thick and use it for the cheeks to rest the trunnions in. my question is will it take the recoil at that width?

  14. Considering everything is made out of rope, I'm sure there are all several self-tightening knots that could have done the trick of securing the brush once it was wound around. Though it would be cool to know what was commonly used.

    Thanks Jim for the diagram - it's great.

    went to work on the spouge project. made the baggywinkle and drilling some holes in the pole attached it to the pole with knots. wish i had a picture, i think it looked very good and period. the only problem was i had more sponge then cannon bore(13/4in), it would have been great for a 4in bore. so i started to trim it down and down and down. by the time i got it to fit the the bore there wasn't much left of the baggywinkle it was mostly the rope with a winkle here and there. tried a couple of different adjustment different size winkles and attachment rope, even wire. nothing seem to work as well as the first one i made. so i backed up and took another look at this, i have decided to drill a series of 1/4in hole in a spiral patten through the pole and push the baggywinkle shourd thought each one. it will give me a small but brislly looking sponge.

  15. i was looking at an old book from the 1600 called the "SEA GUNNER INSTUCTIONS" it can be found on the web. it stated that a gunner should have plenty of old shourds to be used as sponge. does anyone have any thought on how this is used?

    Do we mean on how th' spounge was used, or how you would jimmy rig a few shrouds t' a pole to make a squeegee...eerrrr sponge?

    the baggywrinkle would work as a sponge, i looked at so old drawing on the web and saw that the sponge look like a brisle brush. how would it be attached to the pole?

  16. i was looking at an old book from the 1600 called the "SEA GUNNER INSTUCTIONS" it can be found on the web. it stated that a gunner should have plenty of old shourds to be used as sponge. does anyone have any thought on how this is used?

  17. i have a brass barreled buss military style (not a dog lock) from loyalist arms. got it about two years ago. it is a very good looking weapon, very impressive. once a month i do a mariner interpertation at a local site. the buss is the center peice in the weapon display. people are attacted to it, lots of questions and when i ask them if they would like to see it fire, yes is always the answer. the only thing better is a cannon, which i'm working on now.

  18. you can get a decorative globe for 20.00 that has a old 16-17th century map on it that works great. i use one to instruct 17th centruy navigation. if there are any other navigators are reading this i have this question. what is the importantance in nav. of the suns place in the zodiac? i haven't mastered that yet.

  19. i just bought the english swivel from hearn iron works. it was delivered last monday. it took about 3weeks to get it. it is cast iron with steel liner, 30in. long from the mussle to the end of the casabal, weights 90lbs(back has been hurting for a week now) has a 1 3/4in. bore. no swivel mont included, didn't ask about one. i plan to build a naval carriage to mount it on. it is a very period looking gun, has good weight and with that bore size it will get noticed. and the price was very good even with shipping. in the movie master & commander near the end, when they show crow giving sailing orders to one of his officers there is a swivel gun it the back ground that is what it looks like. hearn made the gun for the movie.

  20. earlier in this thread we had a discussion about hammocks, bunks or the deck for sleeping. i was reading "jolly roger " by patrick pringle. in chapter 21 the capt. snelgrave story, capt snelgrave writes that the pirates who had captured his ship slept on the deck. he wrote that they use the phrase" lay rough". thanks

×
×
  • Create New...
&ev=PageView&noscript=1"/>