Cascabel

Arrrrrr.... BLAHSPHEMERY, SEZ I !!!!! An insult to drunken sailors everywhere....

>>>> Cascabel

Pyrodex is absolutely un-suitable for use in a flintlock, but works O.K. in caplock weapons. It was actually developed with caplocks in mind. It is classified as a Flammable Solid, which is why it can be sold almost anywhere. Real black powder is classified as an explosive, and comes under an entirely different set of rules for storage, sale and transportation. The regulations that need to be complied with for a retailer to sell real black powder are too much trouble for most gun shops to be bothered with.

Before the advent of nitroglycerine and other nitrate based explosives, such as dynamite, TNT, guncotton, etc. black powder was the explosive of choice for all demolition, blasting, and munitions uses. The nitrate based explosives were found to be considerably more powerful. Black powder is still used in fusing and other ignition related applications in modern munitions and explosives.

>>>> Cascabel

Just for the sake of curiosity..is this the bad guy???

http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fusea...endID=435158198

No matter what else is at issue, they seem to have difficulty with the English language !!!

>>>> Cascabel

The correct blank charge will vary, depending on both caliber and barrel length. There is no one "correct" charge for all weapons. I usually advise one grain per caliber as a starting point, and increase from there until a decent "boom" is achieved with no wadding. Usually it winds up about the ratio that Patrick uses, around 150% of the caliber in grains or less, but again, it varies with bore size and barrel length. Shorter barrels or smaller bores require less powder. An excess of powder is blown out of the barrel un-burned, or burns after leaving the barrel as a large muzzle flash, both of which are wasteful. A compressed load with a wad, of course requires less powder, but I always advocate going wadless for many reasons. A word of caution to the "newbies"..... A live load with a ball is an entirely different matter. There is considerably less powder used !!!!

You eventually get to a "point of diminishing returns", where an increase in powder results in very little increase in sound, until you get to an ear ringing volume rather suddenly. At that point, you are not only wasting powder, but entering the realm of ear damage.

>>>> Cascabel

Black Powder is the lighter fluid and gasoline of the re-enacting community, at least among the inexperienced. I've seen people dump copious amounts of gasoline or lighter fluid on wood to 'start a fire', forgetting that the basic principle of fire is the initial spark and control more than the volume. I've seen the same thing with black powder rifles when people are going for the boom and blast of 'the real thing', or at least the real thing as they perceive it should be.

This is a paragraph from my 'Flintlocks 101' article that I wrote for No Quarter Given regarding proper powder charges :

"You absolutely do not want to be so loud as to cause ear damage !!!!! This seems to be an on-going problem with some people that seem to think that it is important to have the LOUDEST gun on the crew, or some other such foolishness. This is an extremely bad practice from several standpoints. It is EXTREMELY inconsiderate to your fellow pirates to deliberately do something that is causing discomfort and a high likelihood of permanent ear damage. It is not at all amusing, and if you seem to get more than a few complaints or remarks about how loud your weapon is, you need to lower your powder charge or change your loading procedure. If you are causing ringing ears, you can also leave yourself, your re-enactment group, and the event open to personal injury lawsuits by members of the public. A few such incidents can get firing banned from our events. THINK !!!!!! Excessive charges, if carried to the extreme, can blow a gun apart with all sorts of immediate and on-going consequences. Don’t be the one that brings trouble on to everyone !!! Measure your charges, and keep them reasonable."

>>>> Cascabel

I know where he's hiding out. For a few doubloons, I might be persuaded to...... Akkkk !!....Ugh.... Koff..Koff...Ha-a-a-a-a-alp !!! He just broke wind !!! I'm having trouble breathing....... Passing out...

If we put Stynky on trial, can the judge be expected to be a kangaroo ???

Second, faire requires weapons to be peace tied at all times, so unless you are part of cast, there is no opportunity to swing a blade at all. I'm thinking more of the specific pirate festivals, where all groups get time on the field, or historic timelines, where the same sort of thing applies. I would never consider just drawing on another group of wandering pirates or soldiers in a public area. The battle, fight, duel or whatever would need to be scheduled and monitored by marshals no matter what, in a secured area.

Normally, only cast members are allowed to use weapons either bladed or firearms at all festivals. It's a liability issue. Most events that I attend provide for individuals or groups to become participants by signing waivers of some sort. Normally no one is allowed to just show up and "play" without some kind of sign-in procedure. The event itself is responsible and can be held liable for what goes on at their venue.

>>>> Cascabel

Aye, mine looks similar.....

>>>> Cascabel

I carry a small folding knife, intended as a tool, rather than a weapon.

>>>> Cascabel

Hello to all the splendid pyrates I met whilst at PiP covering it for the Sunday Mirror... I had a wonderful time which I'm re-living whilst writing it all up at the moment... I'll be including a link to this site as a good place for prospective Brit Pirates to start if that's OK... again - thank you all for the fun that i had - I'm already missing you all! X

Ahoy, Nikki....

I'm glad you were able to make it to PiP. I enjoyed hanging out with you. I hope your write-up in the Mirror is well received.

>>>> Cascabel

I've seen one kit at Dixie Gun Works, but its a percussion not a flintlock. Has anyone else ever seen either kits or replicas for sale? I know this one would need some modification but I'd be willing to make it work and the price isn't bad IMO but I would like to know if anyone else has seen anything different.

Thanks for your time.

Please do yourself a favor, and don't waste your money on this thing. It is very poor quality, and poorly designed. The term "piece of crap" comes to mind. It's safe enough, and won't blow up in your face, but that's the best I can say for it.

I have not seen a quality reproduction duckfoot available in my many years of dealing with this stuff, other than very expensive one-off custom pieces. A real duck foot has more than three barrels usually, and sometimes more that one row, one above the other. You should be able to find some good images of originals by looking on GOOGLE images to get an idea of what they should really look like.

>>>> Cascabel

As a side note on these pistols, there are several variations from the same manufacturer using the same handle/frame assembly that are equally poor quality, and not worth having. One of which is called the "Cutlass Pistol", and I can't recall the names of the others.

>>>> Cascabel

The hemp fragments may be simply the remains of a storage wrapping. Just like some of us today wrap our pistols up in a towel or something for protection when not in use. I would be hesitant to call it a holster without evidence of means of attachment to a belt or something of that type.

>>>> Cascabel

The "flaming bomb" symbol has been used as far back as the 17th century, and as recently as World War I, and may be still used by some militaries. The whole rig looks Napoleonic era to me. The crossed cannons usually indicate the artillery branch of the service. It may be an artillery fuze pouch. Great item !!! I think I would leave it alone, and hang it on the wall for display.

>>>> Cascabel

That would be a pretty tall order to give complete info, short of writing a book. For instance, the Brown Bess, more properly called the Land Pattern musket (as opposed to the Sea Service musket), was produced in many "official" variations as improvements and cost reductions evolved from the 1720's up to the 1790's. All of the variations may be referred to as Brown Besses.

French muskets followed a similar evolutionary process, as did military issued pieces in other European countries. There was considerable overlap in designs, with the more recent improved models being issued after earlier models were depleted in the arsenals. Usually the older models were issued to troops on foreign service.

There was quite a bit of overlap in ignition types in the early years in the non-military world, with early and more recent types used side by side. There are also regional preferences, for instance, the long popularity of miquelet style flintlocks in Spain, Italy, and the Balkan area. Another regional difference was the long use of various types of doglock among the English, when the French and others had gone over to the more standard type of flintlock.

>>>>> Cascabel

Crocus cloth comes in only one grade in my experience. It is really nice stuff !! It is finer than the finest sandpaper. It has a cloth backing, and is used dry. There is yet a finer product available called "Emery Polishing Paper", made by Carborundum Abrasives. It is a bit hard to find, but excellent. It will get you almost to a mirror-like finish. The next thing finer than that would be Jeweller's Rouge, which is actually a compound in stick form meant for use on a buffing wheel.

Commonly available abrasive papers are available in 90, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, and 600 grades. The higher the number, the finer the finish. Crocus cloth is finer than all of these. All of these are usually "wet or dry" types. They are best used wet with water to carry away the sanding residue. This also gives a finer finish. They can usually be had at suppliers of automotive painting supplies, if not at your local hardware store, or if an industrial supply store is not nearby. Probably more than you really wanted to know about abrasives !!!!

>>>> Cascabel

Thanks, Jib !!! That is an amazing piece....

>>>> Cascabel

Not sure I'd agree with that, Cascabel. The matchlock has been my primary piece for the last 20 years, being that I prefer 16th-17th c period. I can and have fired in the rain, and under many questionable conditions. Knowing where to cock your match, keeping your pan cover well tightened and greased, knowing how much prime and where to set it in the pan all comes into play. With a well tuned matchlock, I can get ignition just as fast as a flintlock. The wheelock, on the other hand is touchy, very dependant on the piece of pyrite in the cock (most people I know have switiched to using the misch metal from industrial welding strikers), and a real pain.

Historically, the matchlock was more useful, since it could take more abuse, and could even fire with a completely broken or missing lock, by just dipping the match in by hand, especially useful when the drill called for the piece to be used as a club when your bandolier was empty. On the other hand, the wheelock was subject to all manner of problems. Leaving it spanned for any length of time would ensure that it would not fire, since spring steel was in it's infancy and would take a set to the spanned position. The chain would break, the sear come unhooked. It was also a high maintainance item. Since the pan is effectively open to the lock, powder would sift down into the works. I have personally seen a lock blow out of the side of the piece when too much powder got into the pistol and wasn't cleaned out. References from the Germanies during the 30 Years War advise reiter squadrons to make very sure they had a well equipped and skillful armorer with them at all times, due to the problems with the wheelocks.

Like any other weapon, it depends on how familiar you are with it and how good your your maintainance is. I have two matchlocks and two wheelocks. The wheelocks look interesting and are great for conversation starters with the public, but when I am going into a shooting competition, I want my matchlock. I know it will work when it counts, something I can not be sure of with the wheel.

Hawkyns

Aye, I'm in full agreement with you on reliability being based on how familiar you are with your weapons, and quality of maintenance !! This applies to any ignition system. The reproduction wheel locks I have examined definitely have issues with poor fit between the wheel and the pan, even when brand new. Not so with the originals that I have seen, unless badly worn. This is where the closer tolerances come in to play. Careful hand fitting is expensive, and good maintenance is critical on these things !! Powder sifting down behind the lock is really something to watch for.

>>>> Cascabel

I've seen one kit at Dixie Gun Works, but its a percussion not a flintlock. Has anyone else ever seen either kits or replicas for sale? I know this one would need some modification but I'd be willing to make it work and the price isn't bad IMO but I would like to know if anyone else has seen anything different.

Thanks for your time.

Please do yourself a favor, and don't waste your money on this thing. It is very poor quality, and poorly designed. The term "piece of crap" comes to mind. It's safe enough, and won't blow up in your face, but that's the best I can say for it.

I have not seen a quality reproduction duckfoot available in my many years of dealing with this stuff, other than very expensive one-off custom pieces. A real duck foot has more than three barrels usually, and sometimes more that one row, one above the other. You should be able to find some good images of originals by looking on GOOGLE images to get an idea of what they should really look like.

>>>> Cascabel

This is the stuff right here! Thanks Cascabel. I always enjoy it when you share your experience and knowledge. I am trying to talk him into the pistol idea over the long-gunne. My next neighbor over works for Fajen gun stocks and can get me whatever I want for wood and will pre-shape it for me too. This is gonna be fun, but I mat lose my cutlass in the process,(ME brudder fell in love with mine after the last guard change I did). I guess I'll have to use me back-up then.

Bo

If the project actually gets under way, please keep us posted, and step by step photos would be nice too. I'm sure there would be lots of interest, being that wheel locks are not common.

>>>> Cascabel

Found some of 'em on ebay. The New-in-Box ones are a bit pricey

>>>> Cascabel

Great info on your cannon project, HarborMaster !!! I especially like the in-progress shots. I do quite a bit of lathe work myself, and am always interested in how someone else tackles a set-up on the machine. Keep 'em coming....

>>>> Cascabel

Cool, Silver, building a cannon from scratch is very rewarding. I hope your working from plans, as some of the geometry of a carriage is important. like the little 'steps' on the rear of the cheeks - they were there to crowbar the cannon up into the right position to fire after the qoin had been properly set. If they are not just so, they look dopey and out of kilter.

And keep in mind also that the location of a couple of the steps is dictated by the location of the bolts that hold the rear axel on. The steps are definitely not for decoration !!

>>>> Cascabel

i'm getting ready to start work on a 1700 naval carriage, with soild deck. i'm building it to fit the hearn's 1805 swivel gun, it is 30'' long, weigths 90lbs, trunnions are 1 1/4", has a 1 3/4bore(golfball) will fire 2oz. of powder. i was able to get a couple of long pieces of white oak they are 2 1/2" thick, 6" wide and 6' long. i want to cut them to where they are 1 1/4" thick and use it for the cheeks to rest the trunnions in. my question is will it take the recoil at that width?

Assuming the barrel is properly designed and proportioned, the thickness of the cheeks needs to be about the length of the trunnions. Any thicker than the length of the trunnions does you no good. Any thinner than the trunnion length is likely not going to be strong enough.

>>>> Cascabel

I were on E-bay ( as I usualy do) looking for new armament for the Hellion, when I realized that there are loads of cannon being offered there as 'firing' cannon and upon close examination of the pictures, I realized that many are basically desk paperweights and the like, being sold, in error or on purpose, as firing cannon.

For those thinkin upon buying new long guns, be wary.

What to stay away from:

Small Brass barreled cannon with solid cast iron carriage - these are souvenier cannon and are NOT usable

Bronze or Brass barreled guns, known as lantaka, usualy offered from Borneo - these are cheap, badly casted repros. They look like fancy,long swivel guns. Very occasionally I see one that MIGHT be authentic, but who the hell knows.

Cast iron barrels that do not have a steel sleeve.

Fancy antique cannon, with iron webwork carriages - ostensibly from Victorian England - many are modern repros.

Cannon that have thin wall thickness - the bore at the breach end ( the back end) should be one third the diameter of the breach end. ( 1" bore and the breach measures 3")

I am sure Cascabel and others who know BP cannon well can chime in here

While good, safe cannon can be had on E-bay, a safer bet is to patronize one of the many cannon makers listed on this site:

http://www.go2gbo.com/forums//index.php/topic,2814.0.html

Cannon are a lot of fun, but when things go bad with them, they go REALLY bad

Well said, Shipmate !!! There is truly a lot of pure crap offered on ebay, either by well intentioned but un-informed sellers, or scam artists. Be careful out there !!!

If anyone finds a weapon related item on ebay they are not certain of, feel free to post it here for an honest opinion. I hate to torpedo a guy after he has spent his hard earned money thinking he got something worthwhile. Maybe we can guide our members in the right direction before that happens.....

>>>> Cascabel