Jump to content

Cascabel

Dearly Departed
  • Posts

    850
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Cascabel

  1. Cascabel

    Splinters

    The biggest issue that I had with the episode was that all hits were in between ribs. It's fairly easy to punch a clean hole in that area, free of large splinters. Depending on thickness, you could do it with a sledgehammer. They should have tried a few shots that hit the ribs. I think the results would have been considerably different !!! >>>> Cascabel
  2. Cascabel, when exactly is the Bald Head Island event? I might be interested in coming to that one... It's a week before Beaufort. >>>> Cascabel
  3. I'll be at the Beaufort, NC event in August, and also the Bald Head Island event. I hope to cross paths with ye..... >>>> Cascabel
  4. In side views of the early galleon type ships with the high stern castles, they appear to have quite a severe forward slope to the upper decks, and possibly all of the rear decks. This looks like it would be very uncomfortable to stand on for any length of time, for instance standing at the helm. Did the decks actually slope like that, or is it an illusion caused by the slope of the rail ? I have never been up close to a real one, so I thought I would pose the question. The other question is, if they actually slope in that fashion, what is the purpose ? Later style ships don't have that steep sloped appearance >>>>> Cascabel
  5. I'm sure that you are correct. You can get some interesting parts from these wall-hangers. I bought a pair of pistols that had some real snaphaunce locks. After I soaked the better one in oil for a while I got the rust off and got everything loosened up. I was able to replace a few pieces and get it to fire. Of course, the rest of it was complete junk. Mark The interesting part about some of these things is that they often have decent quality European made locks, or other parts attached to them. There was a thriving market in obsolete and surplus gun parts going on in the old days, just like today. Obsolete parts were sold where ever people would buy them. Many of them wound up in the Middle East and Africa after they became totally outdated in Europe. Sometimes complete locks were available, but most often by the time they made it to the surplus market, parts were missing. Missing parts were crudely made by local craftsmen. You will sometimes encounter the long "camel rider" muskets with English or French pistol locks incorporated, along with locally made barrels. Napoleonic period French locks are commonly found on cheap smoothbore guns made for sale to native tribesmen in the African interior. Later on, the non-functional pieces for the tourist trade were being made using the same sources for some of the parts. This is where inexperienced collectors can get into trouble. >>>> Cascabel
  6. I agree completely with Silas on this issue. It's someone else's sandbox, so we have to play by their rules, or not play at all. The rules are not there to insult us, but because of paranoia about lawsuits and bad publicity, or in some cases legal issues about weapons in public. I didn't bring any weapons at all to the Fells Point event, out of respect for the rules, even though I considered the rules total nonsense However, I have always objected to the term "Peace Tying". It almost seems they are trying to get it accepted as a historical concept to make it more palatable. >>>> Cascabel
  7. Well: Cup Hilt? Match lock? Dog lock? Frock coat? Any of us will be glad to help you out in understanding English words. To start with, try entering the words you don't understand in Google Images http://www.google.com/imghp?hl=en&tab=wi You will get pictures of what you are looking for. >>>> Cascabel
  8. Well........ I hope you didn't pay much for it. Unfortunately, it has all the appearances of one of those cobbled together pieces intended for the tourist trade made in the Middle East or North Africa from old parts of dubious origin. Never intended to be fired, only a wall hanger. I really hate to torpedo a guy's choices after he has spent his hard earned money, but there it is........ >>>> Cascabel
  9. I wonder what kind of powder he's feeding it. It seems to be sort of a reddish brown color...... >>> Cascabel
  10. Hmmmmm....... And all this time I thought Cousin Robbie was a totally fictitious character that only existed on the pub !!! >>>> Cascabel
  11. Actually, the expression "firing from the hip" does not entail bracing it against the hip, but rather firing from hip level, pointing instinctively, rather than aiming from the shoulder held position. Recoil is absorbed by allowing the piece to move back or rise controlled by the strength of your arms. Not at all difficult..... >>>> Cascabel While that may be true, some people take it literally. I've caught people on TV bracing a blunderbuss on their hip. I started this thread after seeing a link to a Buccaneer 101 course that said a blunderbuss had to be braced against the hip. If you try bracing a weapon with a shoulder stock against your hip, you will find it to be quite awkward, and also unnecessary. The recoil impulse is only momentary, and quite easily controlled with a strong grip. Of course, this assumes a reasonably normal load, rather than something that may exceed the strength of the breech. If you are around guns very much, you soon realize that there are a lot of "old wives tales" passed around as the gospel truth. This is especially true as applied to movies and TV !! A blunderbuss is really nothing more than the 18th century version of a sawed-off shotgun, and some of those only have a pistol grip, and no butt stock at all. >>>>> Cascabel
  12. Actually, the expression "firing from the hip" does not entail bracing it against the hip, but rather firing from hip level, pointing instinctively, rather than aiming from the shoulder held position. Recoil is absorbed by allowing the piece to move back or rise controlled by the strength of your arms. Not at all difficult..... >>>> Cascabel
  13. Can't give you much info without Pics !!! >>>> Cascabel
  14. Heavy trigger pulls usually can best be fixed by re-working the tumbler notches. The sear spring is usually only part of the problem. Could be a combination of both. As a test, try temporarily removing the sear spring completely, and see how it feels. It will give you an idea how much pressure is required to release it. Trigger pull is also very much effected by the location of the pin that the trigger pivots on. Rapid wearing or breakage of flints is usually caused by overly strong frizzen springs. Many of the India made pieces are guilty of this. It can be remedied with a bit of careful work. >>>> Cascabel Cascabel, So what can be done with a overly strong Frizzen Spring? Like M Bagley, I have a early doglock musket. I too think the frizzen came to me not hardened properly. I am planning on doing the tin can in a fire thing this weekend, but I am also interested in knowing how to lighten a frizzen spring. To begin with, the way to test a frizzen for hardness is to take a SHARP file, and try to file across the face. Don't be afraid to bear down hard. The file won't "grab" or cut at all if the frizzen is hard enough, but merely "skid" across the face. The test only requires one stroke. If the file digs in AT ALL, then you need to re-harden. If the file simply skids across the face, then frizzen hardness is not your problem !! Always check in this fashion BEFORE deciding that it is not properly hardened. You should also check a re-hardening job in the same fashion. Overly strong springs are typical of India-made guns. They can be dealt with in a couple of different ways, depending on the individual situation. Basically, if you look at your spring, you will see that it is much wider than it needs to be to start with (usually). It really needs to be no wider than to give the toe of the frizzen a place to ride. It usually is also considerably THICKER than necessary also. Each issue needs to be dealt with separately. Narrowing the spring reduces the strength, because of course, you are removing metal. Don't go too far in narrowing the spring. Don't forget, you can't put the metal back on !! Reducing the thickness also reduces the strength, but also imparts more FLEXIBILITY. If you only make it narrower, it will still most likely be too stiff, and may break at the bend. Reducing the thickness should be done with the end result being a GRADUAL taper with the rear being the thinnest point. The area of re-work only needs to be the portion of the spring to the rear of the anchor pin, as that is the only part that flexes. It can be done a couple of ways depending on available tooling. Filing by hand works nicely, or you can use a grinder, but avoid getting it too hot and effecting the temper. If you choose to grind it, holding it in your bare fingers will let you know if it is getting too hot !! Watch the color, and if you turn it blue, you will most likely have to re-temper it, so be careful, work slowly, and dip it in water often to cool it. Keep all filing and grinding marks LENGTHWISE to the spring, so as not to induce cracking and breakage during use. Polish out all tool marks, so as not to have stress points, which can start a crack. How much to reduce the width and thickness remains a "judgement call". Don't try the shortcut of over bending the spring, as that usually results in breakage, or rendering it too weak to work properly. >>>>> Cascabel
  15. Placing it in an oarlock using the attached yoke does not concentrate the recoil forces on the wrist of the stock, as putting the butt against something solid does. If a stock gets broken for almost any reason, it usually breaks through the wrist, or through the area of the lock mortise, both of them are weak points. This includes dropping from high places, falling on them, using them as a club, etc. The rail guns were meant to be braced against the shoulder. The mount was mostly to support the weight of the piece, and steady the aim >>>> Cascabel
  16. If you have attempted to re-harden it, you probably adversly effected the original heat treating. To what degree, I can't tell without examining it, but it can be put right without much trouble. The original problem is without a doubt lack of knowing how to operate a flintlock, or bad information, neither of which is your fault. There is a tremendous amount of bogus information and old-wives tales being passed around "out there", perpetuated by well meaning, but uninformed people. I wrote a series of in depth articles for No Quarter Given magazine a few years back that will tell you everything you need to know. PM me if you are interested in a copy. >>>> Cascabel
  17. An original Pedersoli Queen Anne frizzen should not have required any attention at all, unless incredibly badly worn out. Unlike the India made guns, I have never encountered one that needed re-hardening. If you get it hot enough, there should be sufficient carbon already in the steel without the addition of Kasenit. >>>>> Cascabel
  18. I fire mine from the shoulder or from the hip, whichever is convenient. Even with a heavy load (live), the recoil is no worse than a 12 ga. shotgun. A blank load has very little recoil. I suppose you might get uncomfortable with a dangerously heavy overload, but with normal loads, it is not a problem. Mine has a stock similar to a Brown Bess musket with a nice wide buttplate to distribute the energy. Narrow butts, or very lightweight weapons can be a bit more uncomfortable, but not really much of a problem. You really don't need to brace it against anything, just hold on to it tightly. Bracing against a solid object runs the risk of breaking the stock with a heavy load. It needs to have the recoil absorbed by being cushioned by your body, or being allowed to move back against the strength of your arms. >>>>> Cascabel
  19. Dixie Gun Works...... http://www.dixiegunworks.com/advanced_search_result.php?osCsid=0a425555bd62c6052e2f924d94f31761&keywords=powder+measure&x=15&y=15 >>>> Cascabel
  20. Now if I understand this correctly, and I'm not saying that I do after the amount of beers I've consumed. But I believe each one of us/each individual, as an Order of Leviathan member gets to nominate somebody. ...........and where and how do we make these nominations, in order for them to be recognized as "official" ???? >>>> Cascabel
  21. Don't miss the Pirates of Nassau museum. Small, but nice with high-end wax figures in the displays. >>>> Cascabel
  22. What is going to be the "official" way of recommending or nominating people for consideration for membership ? I see people being mentioned in the public Order of Leviathan thread, and wonder if that is going to be the way it is to be done, or will it be done by e-mail to Pirates Magazine, or some other route ? >>>> Cascabel
  23. " 'Tis far easier to gain forgiveness than to get permission" >>>>> Cascabel
  24. Aye !!!, sez I. Let's make the name our own, and toss the crackpots and people that deliberately mis-construe things overboard where they belong !! I am not a person that feels obligated to justify things to idiots...... >>> Cascabel
  25. The only way that could happen would be if the event organizer and sponsors wanted it that way. They are mostly trying to appeal to a broad spectrum of the public in order to attract attendees. Remember, we are always playing in someone else's sandbox...... >>>> Cascabel
×
×
  • Create New...
&ev=PageView&noscript=1"/>