MorganTyre

I've wondered about that one for some time. It's a pretty little boat. Let us know how things turn out. I think I may try my hand at a model one.

Also, this site http://www.humboldt.edu/~rap1/EarlySciInst...nts/RepInst.htm has some neat info. Most of it is too early for GAoP but fascinating none-the-less.

One of my favorite intro's to period navigation is Latitude Hooks and Azimuth Rings: How to Build and Use 18 Traditional Navigational Instruments which has a run down of quite a few of the standard measuring tools of the time. The illustrations are somewhat crude but it is possible to build all the ones listed including the more esoteric looking ones like a nocturnal and backstaff.

Badly rusted as in there is scale coming off? If so there is little you can do. However, if there is moderate rust you can scrape quite a bit off with a scraper, then sand it with 220 grit or so until you've got clean metal then switch to 400 or so. Aluminum oxide grit is probably your best bet. For getting a great shine use a buffer with a sanding disk such as the hook and loop 3m ones. Follow that 220 grit followed by a 400 grit process till you get a dull shine looking sort of like buttered aluminum foil. Then take a right angle grinder with a buffing wheel and some buffing compound to it - the white compound works great on steel and stainless. Guaranteed to bring it to a mirror shine. After all the sanding and polishing is done you'll probably need to resharpen it.

Hmmm, I thought for sure I'd read that at one point the name officially changed (for the british navy anyway) by admiralty decree. Let me see if I can find that reference somewhere... Ok found a reference in an old encyclopedia: Owing to the similarity in sound between starboard and larboard, the word port is now used for the left side. The substitution of this for the older term was officially ordered in the British navy by an admiralty order of 1844, and in the United States of America by a navy department notice in 1896. The use of port in this sense is much older; it occurs in Manwaring's Seaman's Dictionary (1625-1644). In this usage port may either mean " harbour " (Lat. portus), the ship lying with its left side against the port or quay for unloading, or " opening," " entrance " (Lat. porta, gate), for the cargo to be taken on board; cf. " porthole." I'd be interested in getting my hands on that dictionary.

Huzzah! Best news I've heard all day. Thanks.

Wow, there's a nice and obscure one. Thanks! Also, on an unrelated note. In what year did they give up "larboard" for "port"?

Somewhere out there there is a now out of print (I assume) book which had some mini skipjack plans. If I remember correctly they showed a lateen rig which of course looks ridiculous on that boat. I'll bet the standing lug wasn't bad at all though. I've always wanted to do a small boat with a dipping lug rig. It's about as cumbersome a rig as you can find but it's salty looking, very traditional, and super-powerful off the wind. If you guys need a little help developing the gaff rig (although it looks like you are doing great - I'm just passing on the reference) I reccomend John Leather's, Gaff Rig Handbook. And for doing a GAoP period rig you can't find a better source than Eighteenth century rigs and rigging by Marquardt which is a book I just swear by in general.

I wish I could be more sure of the time frame. I'm positive it was a well established style in the 19th century. I've seen several photo's of ones of that era. The grind a file down also came from the 19th century. Anything older though and I'm afraid you'll run in to the same dilemma that I did when trying to research serving mallets which is that for something as banal as that there just doesn't seem to be much info. I'll post this question over on Brion Toss's website. He's the closest thing to a celebrity as you're likely to find in the rigging industry and he has done alot of "traditional" work and he or someone there might know. I also have some local sources here in south texas who might know. I'll post again in the near future.

In the launching and relaunchings setions of a wooden boat magazine several years ago there was a 16 foot 3-masted (I think) square rigger which was just awesome. I've always liked the idea of a scaled down classic. Nice skipjack incidentally. One minor detail though (and this isn't a criticism, the boat looks awesome) If you move your peak halyard about midway down the gaff you'll greatly decrease the compression load you are putting on it and subsequently the lateral load on the mast. You'll also be dramatically decreasing the tension load on the halyard itself which at that angle has to be pretty extreme. All in all a great boat and well done project. I'd love to see it actually under sail.

Whenever a customer comes in to the shop, generally to inquire about masthead work though sometimes just blocks, one word is pronounced in either of two ways. The word is sheave or in plain english the round thing inside a pulley that the rope rolls over. The two pronunciations are either sheev (like it's currently spelled) or shiv. For some reason the pronunciation of shiv has ALWAYS driven me completely insane. That word alone would immediately convince me you were nothing but a lowly stinkpotter masquerading as a sailor even if you'd grown up aboard a schooner and your mastery of the two-stroke is limited to a weed-eater. I know this is wrong of me. It's prejudicial and unwarranted and I'm not proud of it. However, minor annoyances are minor annoyances and I can't help disliking that anymore than I can help disliking lima beans. Well, all of those poor souls who have quietly earned my contempt should now feel vindicated. From Ashley's book of knots: 3155. Blocks are of two kinds: "made" blocks , of several pieces, and "morticed" blocks, which are chiseled out of a single piece of wood. The early name for a grooved wheel in a block was shiver which, after 1627, was contracted to shiv, the name that is used at present.

When it came to venturing into the blue pirates used more or less whatever was available to them from galley to frigate. However, was there a particular type of ship which gets the most historical references? Also, as an unrelated question - When were bomb ketch's brought into common usage?

Also found this image which is supposedly of her. Let me know what else you find!

Found this reference googling: "I have not yet had time to explore the second part of this book, 'Pirates in Action'. I see; however, that the first chapter in that part refers to social banditry in its title. I knew I'd find references to Hobsbawm in here! These chapters take a closer look at what is known about pirate society and examine the lives of those famous women pirates Ann Mills, Mary Reed and Ann Bonny. Guess I'll have to leave Bandits at Sea on the reading table for a while, so I can pick it up again." In short, it appears the book: C. R. Pennell, editor, Bandits at Sea: A Pirates Reader (New York University Press, 2001) has a reference to Ann Mills

Somewhere I've seen reference to a sailor grinding a knife from a broken file and I've thought of doing the same for some time. It's good steel, could be made razor sharp, but would still have the rough hewn look of something purpose made. The sailors knives I've had experience with rigging range from being very blunt ended to being completely squared off like a straight razor. With the exception of stabbing something there is almost nothing that a dagger point is good for on a tool (which is how a sailing knife should be seen) that can't be done better with a marlinespike which would also be a neat do-it-yourself metal or woodworking project. The knives are a little thicker and heavier than a typical pocketknife and in one case was ground as a perfect wedge all the way back to the back. The knives I'm talking about are all 19th and 20th century though so they are just a general guideline. However, having used one quite a bit they are the perfect tool for the job.

Coachwhipping proper is very easy, just a square sennit made of multiple parts around a core. I've just never been able to get the final weave looking even. That's why I profer the long turkshead. My stupid cat is the bane of my knotting existence. I do a lot of work with lines (professionally and for fun) and she's always there to make life difficult. I'd love to do the pirates in paradise gig. That sounds like tons of fun. It's not going to happen this year though. I'm about to start a new job and will already need time off for some upcoming regatta's. I'm curious what your rum of choice is though. As for my bio, yes it's not very complete but I'd be surprised if any of you are close. I'm way down in south texas.

I've really enjoyed making the becket tutorials over on captain twill. If anyone else has any marlinespike how-to questions (rope mats, bell ropes, fenders, etc.) please let me know.

Very nice stuff. I wouldn't decorate it much as casks (not going to bother nit picking over correct term) are/were mostly functional. The equivalent of a milk jug really. However, some aging might look really good. I'm not sure what the best material would be for doing this but if it were mine I might try a boiled linseed oil/pine tar/japan dryer combination with perhaps a little turpentine in there to help it soak in to the woods surface a bit. It won't penetrate very deeply but it will penetrate some so be very careful if this is to be a container that you will store liquids in.

No problem. If you come up with a tent please post pictures.

Some time ago I came across a site with a scan of a period gunnery manual. I've since lost the link.

Ok, the tutorial is finally done. All in all a relatively easy project and a pair could be made in a day for about 4 bucks (10 or so if you use leather). I still think I should have put it here in plunder rather than twill but since I started it there that's where it finished. Enjoy!

Sail canvass at the time is probably linen or maybe hemp but certainly not the cotton that is the standard canvas nowadays. As for the rest, I'll point you over here - http://pyracy.com/forums/index.php?showtop...5&hl=encampment

Ok, here goes - take the phone off the hook, put the kids to bed, put the cat out (I didn't and she drove me crazy diving after all the bits of string) - it's time to tackle what will probably be the biggest turkshead you will ever tie. This isn't coachwhipping proper but the appearance is the same and for me at least the process is easier. For reference, we are tying Ashleys #1289. There are a few basics you will need to know here. I am assuming you know how to tie a constrictor hitch, a wall knot, and a crown knot. If not look at Constrictor Hitch, Wall knot, and Crown knot. Step 1 - Setting up Measure out three six foot strands of string. Find the middles and place them where you intend to start your knot, evenly spaced around your form (a piece of line if this is your first attempt, the becket if this is for keeps) and seize them there with a tight constrictor hitch. Now spiral them down the line with a right helix at about a 45 degree angle. Go a little (25% or so) past the length of the finished coachwhipping and then seize the bottom down with another constrictor hitch. It's important that you give yourself a little length at this point because the finished knot will shrink up somewhat during tightening. Now crown the top to the left and wall the bottom to the right. Note that in my example I wrapped the helix a little too tight a spiral. This bit me later on. I haven't done a bunch of these and the spacing is a matter of practice. I ended up with 13 rows going one way and 7 going the other which still looks really good but not the nice even checkerboard you are really shooting for. Also, DO NOT MAKE THE INITIAL HELIX TOO TIGHT THE STRANDS SHOULD BE LOOSE. Otherwise, weaving the lines later becomes next to impossible. Step 2 - Starting the weave Now, starting at the top work each string over one and then under one in a helix counter to the one you set up initially. Go one step on each of the three strings and then repeat the process now on the bottom working one strand up at a time, once again counter to the helix. Step 3 - Continuing the weave At this point things are going to get increasingly clear. Continue the over and under pattern, one string and one step at a time first at one end, then on the other - all the while working towards the center in a helix that's roughly 90 degrees to the initial lay. Step 4 - Doubling Once you get to the center of the weave the lines pass parallel to each other. From this point on the weave will be pretty clear. Once you reach the outer end it's time to follow the same lines inward again. From this point on it's no longer necessary to stick to the strict one string at a time regiment. In fact, it's recommended that you don't have all of the strings come out in the same place when you are finished. Also, once it's doubled twice as shown in the picture you can carefully cut and remove the constrictor hitches. Step 5 - Finishing and finishing touches From here on out it's up to you how many times you want to double the turkshead. In theory there really is no upper limit, just what's practical with the space you have available. The goal is even coverage and I was able to achieve that with three doubles but you might have different results with the material you have on hand. Now it's time to tighten the whole thing up which is a time consuming and careful process. I didn't think it was necessary to photograph it though as it should be relatively self explanatory. Expect the tightening to take longer than the initial tying. I also like to use a pair of needle nose pliers to help grab the line one things start getting snug. When you are done, roll the whole thing under your foot a few times to even things up and get it nice and round. Now we have a gripping surface on the becket which is great but there are two other details we need. First, the becket will pass through a wooden cleat so chafe is a real concern. For this area I used a piece of leather taken from one of the sea dog leather chafing gear sets. These are pre-punched and come with waxed twine and a needle. I don't care for their stitching instructions, preferring a baseball stitch instead which I can illustrate later if anyone requests it. Now that we have a gripping surface and a bearing surface we need something to hold everything in place. For this use two turksheads of the type illustrated in part 2 of this tutorial. When all is said and down you should end up with something similar to the final picture. I chose not to worm this grommet as it made taking pictures of the details of the coachwhipping difficult but worming, especially with a contrasting material, would be a really nice touch. To finish just varnish, shellac, or pine tar the becket and you are set. If you choose to tar it expect it to take many days before you'll really want to handle it. Part 1 Part 2

Just how far back to knots go? Obviously the majority of functional knots - bowlines, reef knots, etc. are as ancient as sailing but what about decorative knots? The running turkshead (the one strand kind such as what I've illustrated elsewhere is period for sure with documentation to prove it but I'm wondering about some of the hitching, the multipart turksheads, the rope mats, etc. They look pretty and salty but I get the impression that most only go back to the 19th century. Am I wrong in this? What sort of documentation have you guys seen?

Just a guess but you might have answered your own question. If the beer were to develop pressure then leakage might be considerably more. If there is a small leak "below the waterline" of the beer and then the beer gassed then the beer would leak out until the pressure equalized or enough of a vacuum developed to hold in the remaining liquid.