Captain Midnight

Ahoy GoF! Well, the trick would be to remove the trigger and fuse assembly (obviously), and then you would need to cut off the neck of the thing with either a hacksaw or an angle grinder, leaving a nice, simple hole in the top of the orb. Next, I would "texture" the outer shell of steel to remove some of its smoothness and simulate cast iron. This could be done a number of ways, such as burying it in the ground and leaving for several months to rust, or you could (very carefully) texture the outside by spraying with acid to pit the metal. One would need to be extremely cautious with this method, however, as acid is very dangerous stuff. Next, clean the metal thoroughly once you have achieved your desired level of texture, and then spray paint the orb with flat black enamel paint, or gunblue and oil might work as well. Then it is just a matter of carving your wooden stopper and drilling it for a "fuse". Speaking of which, what would be a good substitute for the fuse, without being ignitable? Plain cotton cord, perhaps?

Many thanks, my friend, that is exactly what I need to know. I guess the only question I would have left would be, how is the cockade attached to the two laces? P.S. Thanks for being so patient with my bombardment of questions. I am just trying to learn things so that I may present the most accurate impression that I possibly can. Thanks again!

Wow! Those sites are incredible! I am particularly interested in the cartridge box, which is very similar to the one found in the wreckage of the Whydah. Does anyone know exactly how the inner wooden supports for the pouch were constructed? I wonder if there are any other original examples of these types of cartridge pouch with the wooden pieces intact, so we could see how they are made and put together?

Thanks, GoF! It looks as though my idea of plain brass domed buttons was not too far off base! Thanks again!

Thanks Blackjohn, for your help. So how do the cockade laces work, and what are they made of? By the by, when I referred to an authentic hat, I wasn't necessarily meaning a true antique hat from the period, merely a correct, modern replica.

Mates, I realize some of you might think this is a rather "dumb question", but I have never held an authentic tricorn hat in my hands or had the opportunity to look at one closely. What exactly are those pairs of vertical laces (or loops) on either side? Are they some type of means of securing a cockade? If so, how do they work? And finally, what about cockades worn on hats in the GAoP? Was it done? Or was that something that was practiced later on, toward the Revolution? Thanks for your help, mates!

What type of flints would be appropriate for Loyalist Arms' English doglock pistol? That be the weapon of my choice. Does it need the English style flints? Is Loyalist Arms a reliable vendor?

Thank ye, Cap'n MacNamara, that is a good link. I particularly like the coat shown in the middle, I just wish it was a little closer to my time period. However, you are indeed correct: it is much better than the Halloween patterns!

GoF, Your web site is an outstanding asset to us reenactors, and is very helpful and informative! Thanks for the hard work you've put into it to help us better our impressions. What type of buttons would be best for such a coat? 3/4" plain brass domed?

Thanks for your input, Mates. So, what is wrong with the dummy made from a baseball grenade? (other than being steel instead of cast iron)

Ahoy Mates, I have been studying some photos of original period grenades that have been found in wrecks and such, and would like to ask for some advice. How could I replicate one of these grenades for display purposes so that it would look like the real thing? In these uneasy days of our modern world, such an endeavor might be eyed suspiciously, but my intent is to build a nicely made dummy, that people could look at and hold, but would be completely harmless. I think the main problem would be with the body of the grenade itself. Most I have seen consist of a hollow iron sphere, much like our modern military "baseball" grenades, with a wooden plug and fuse. How could I make the sphere? I had thought to fill it with sawdust or sand to simulate blackpowder, and to handcarve a wooden plug for it. And one last question: when brought out for battle, how were they carried by the individual sailor? In a haversack over the shoulder, or a specially made cartridge box of some sort? Any thoughts?

Ahoy Mates, Does anyone know of a commercially (or otherwise) available pattern for a coat appropriate for the years 1710-1715 that would be fairly easy for a novice to assemble? I started to buy the "Jack Sparrow" pattern from Simplicity, but I really prefer something that is completely historically accurate instead. Any help would be so greatly appreciated, and me thanks in advance!

Ahoy mates! Well, you asked, so here goes. My name was given to me as a nickname in high school by my friends on the basketball team many years ago, I think it is based on some radio character from the thirties or forties, but where they came up with the inspiration to name me after that character, I'll never know. When I joined the pub, I couldn't think of a good pirate name for meself, so I called meself "Gentleman Jeff", because I prefer to deal amicably with others (until crossed, that is), and then one day, my wife was thumbing through some of my old high School year books and found several photos of me with my nickname underneath. She said "why don't you just use the name you were called by your friends years ago as your pirate name?" It made perfect sense, and sounded proper for a pirate, and since I am the owner of a boat named "Barracuda", even the captain part of the name was fitting. So Captain Midnight it is!

Here's me own flag...

Blackjohn, I am referring to their "Classic Pirate Cutlass", which is extremely similar to, although not exactly like the cutlass of Captain Benjamin Church, dated 1675-1678. The style could easily have still been in use (although perhaps not to a large extent) in 1715. The difference in the two periods is a small one; only 40 years...a blade could very plausibly still be very serviceable after such a span, and a good, serviceable blade would not have been discarded by a man who needed a weapon.

Ahoy GoF, I'm sorry I didn't answer this before, I read so quickly through the posts that I must have skipped it. I have decided on the period between 1710-1715. By the way, you have a most excellent web site! Very nice indeed! Captain Midnight Formerly "Gentleman Jeff"

Ahoy Mateys, I understand that some of you do some pretty regular choreographed stage fighting, and need a tough, specially designed sword made to stand up to that kind of abuse, but the truth of the matter is that any real sword whether quality hand forged or not, will become pitted along its edge if clashed against the blade of another. If you believe anything otherwise, you're seriously fooling yourselves. The expensive $500 swords will pit and ding just like any others if so abused. They're not designed to kill your opponent's sword, but rather your opponent. :) Captain Midnight Formerly known as "Gentleman Jeff"