Gentleman of Fortune

This is not a shameless plug as I just saw it on e-bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...6516958941&rd=1 GoF

This information below is on my webpage (see below) and comes from several sources. The discussion started at the Piratebrethren Yahoo Site and reflects several threads and discussions on that site . The sources include "Working Dress" by Diana de Marly (1986), Christopher Lloyd's "The British Seaman" (1968) and G.E. Manwaring, “The Dress of the British Seaman from the Revolution to the Peace of 1748, "Mariner’s Mirror, The Journal of the Society for Nautical Research, Volume 10, 1924. In 1628 the British Admiralty made sailor's clothing, called "slops," available to press-ganged men. They consisted of a suit of canvas with doublet and breeches, Monmouth caps, cotton waistcoats and drawers, stockings, linen shirts and shoes. The Pursers stood to make a profit from the sales from the slop chest, but since clothing is a necessity, it seemed unfair to allow each ship's purser to name his own price. Thus, by 1663 the Admiralty began to issue specifications for the types of clothing (slops) and set fixed prices. It was also stated that they had to be sold before the mainmast, once a week, and in the captain's presence. So, while the Royal Navy did not have or issue an “official” uniform until at least the mid 18th Century, they did issue a contract for, and made certain types of sailors clothes available to, sailors on their ships and in the major costal towns where England’s sailors were. Though these slops were not a uniform because there was no "order" for the sailors to wear them, Manwaring does say that, "Nevertheless, as these were the only clothes permitted to be sold on board ship, and the men were allowed to purchase them on a long credit, it is safe to assume that the supply was eagerly taken up”. One of the most important facts overlooked time and again when examining the common members of a pirate crew is that seamen of the Golden Age period did not consider themselves "Navy" seamen, or "Merchant" seaman, they were just "seamen". One year they might be in the RN. The next year they'd be on a trading voyage to the East Indies. That might have been followed with a six months tour on a Newcastle collier, and then maybe a quick jaunt on a privateer, as the fancy and opportunity took them. So even if many pirates hadn't come directly from an RN ship there's every probability that they had RN slops in their chest from earlier voyages. In 1706, a new contract was issued by the Admiralty for the kinds of clothing that would be acceptable as slops; and they were pretty specific. The contracting system was not all that different from what we have today; that is, the government published what wanted, and various firms bid on the contract. The winning company had to have slop clothing available at set prices to Royal Navy ships. The government even provided "sealed patterns" of each garment that was available in various English ports (even in Lisbon). Sea captains needing to outfit a crew could compare the quality of the local slop supply with these samples. Each contract ran for a limited number of years and then a new contract was issued and opened to bidding. From 1706 to 1748 (other contracts that affect the GAoP were issued in 1717 and 1724) each new contract specified pretty much the same set of clothing, with some minor variations, and also specified the price of each article. The 1706 contract, for example, called for: Shrunck Grey Kersey Jackett, lined with Red Cotton, with fifteen Brass Buttons, and two Pockets of Linnen, the Button Holes stich’d with Gold Colour Thread, at Ten Shillings and Sixpence each (Shrunck appears to mean water-resistant. Kersey is a very coarse cheap wool) Waist Coat of Welsh Red plain unlin’d, with eighteen Brass Buttons, the holes stich’d with Gold Coloured Thread at Five Shillings and Sixpence each (Welsh red refers to a type of wool flannel; cotton flannel does not appear until the 19th C) Strip’d Ticken Waist Coats of proper lengths, to be one Yard in length at least, with Eighteen Black Buttons, the Holes Stitched with Black Thread lined with White linen and two White Linnen Pockets, at the Rate of Seven Shillings each (Ticken/Ticking A strong material of linen, basket woven, and usually in stripes) Red Kersey Breeches lin’d with Linnen, with three Leather Pockets, and thirteen white Tinn Buttons, the Button Holes stitched with white Thread, at the Rate of Five Shillings and Sixpence each (Kersey is a very coarse cheap wool) Strip’d Shagg Breeches lin’d with Linnen, with three Leather Pockets, and fourteen white Tinn Buttons, the Button Holes stich’d with white Thread, at the Rate of Tenn Shillings and Sixpence each. (Shagg also called Duffel - a coarse woolen fabric with a thick tufted nap) Strip’d Ticken Breeches of proper lengthes, lined with white linen, and two linen Pockets, with Sixteen Black Buttons, the Button Holes stich’d with Black Thread, at the rate of five Shillings each (Ticken/Ticking A strong material of linen, basket woven, and usually in stripes) Shirts of blew and white chequer’d Linnen, at the Rate of three Shillings and Threepence each. Drawers of blew and white chequer’d Linnen, at the Rate of Two Shillings and Threepence each. Leather Capps faced with Red Cotton, and lined with Black Linnen, at the Rate of One Shilling and twopence each Small Leather Capps stich’d with white Thread, at the Rate of Eightpence each. Grey Woollen Stockings at the Rate of One Shilling and Ninepence per Pair Grey Woollen Gloves or Mittens at the Rate of Sixpence per pair Double Sold Shoes, round Toes, at the Rate of Four Shillings per pair Brass Buckles with Iron Tongues at the Rate of Three Pence per pair These slops lists continued in much the same vein with minor variations until 1748. Since there was no order compelling Royal Navy sailors to buy slops, this could not be considered a uniform, but it amounted to such since these were the clothes most commonly available to them. According to G.E. Manwaring's "The Dress of the British Seaman From the Revolution to the Peace of 1748" in The Mariner's Mirror, 1924 (which has these lists in detail as well as their original sources), this is the costume that British seamen were most often pictured wearing in period prints and paintings. Grey jackets, red breeches or trousers, striped waistcoats and blue-and-white checkered shirts was the de facto uniform for this era. The point about caps is interesting. British seamen were not issued hats until relatively late. They were known for their thrummed caps in the 16th and 17th centuries, as well as Monmouth caps. For some reason, knit caps disappear from the slops list for several decades. Despite this we know through other sources that knit hats and cocked hats were worn during this period, they just do not appear on the slop contracts during the 1690-1720 period. It is not until the list of 1730 that you find the leather caps replaced with "Caps, woolen milled" and "Caps, yarn”. The "Caps, Woolen, milled yarn" is repeated in 1739, when for the first time "Hats" (with no other description) is added. Manwaring believed that trousers were exclusive to British sailors in this era. He cites a Spanish report from the Pacific in which some seamen were recognized as British because they were wearing trousers. The above information is not meant to coerce you into adopting the Admiralty Contracts as your sole guide or vision for building your pirate kit. It is meant, however, to provide examples as to what the common or average sailors clothing might have looked like.

Wow, that is amzing that the Pirate Soul Museum has an authentic GAOP Pirate flag! Interesting that EVERY historical refrence source I have seen claims that there are no surving flags from the 1690-1720 period.... As far as I know, Foxe, Joshua Red, Hawkins, or others have never made the claim that pirate flags weren't black. And contrary to your claim, at lot of research has gone into this by members of this forum. I think that the point that has been stressed concerning pirate flags is that MOST of what pirate/entertainers/re-enactors know about pirate flags is something that they have either heard frop "somebody else", saw in "Cut throat Island (or other Hollywood pirate fantasy) or from a document from the English Maritime Museum. I find this post very interesting. It doesn't say that black flags were not flown, it says that of all the documentable flags, only about half were black and almost a quarter are definately NOT black. Which is interesting because its one of the things that we modern pseudo historians take for granted that a pirate has to have a black flag. Foxe has a great flag site where he puts forth his collected infromation. I reccomend it to anyone, but please visit it with and open mind and not as if someone is personally trying to discredit your heartfelt beliefs.

Anyway... back on topic. No wait... I guess we are on topic if we are defending Authenticity Nazis. We have been asked by mods not to use the "N" word. I like "stitch counter" even less. Maybe "real-ist" would be better, or how about "the old documentables" But face it, the reality is that on this side of the pond, less than 10% care about accuracy. Those that do though are pretty fervent about it, and that is a good thing. The danger is when you think that you know everything there is to know. Most of the good "documentables" are smart enough to know that it isn't possible, and I bet that Foxe is one and I know he is open to alternative ideas and will change his openion when evidence proves him wrong. There is nothing wrong with asking for evidence. Specualation has its place but documentation is priceless in my book.

Oh don't worry about Hurricane, Foxe. He's just a category 1 and will blow over. He just feels that HE discussed this issue back in 2003 ad nausem and that there is nothing to dicuss further.... Plus, he is an entertainer, that happens to choose piracy as the medium for making people happy. Unlike, the UK, in the states, a lot of people feel that you cannot effectively entertain the public while wearing authentic clothing.... I have pulled some of the old topics from obsucrity so that the hundreds of members that have joined since 2003 can get in on the discussion If you look THIS thread was started in 08/2003. Personally, I feel that the authenticity of GAOP clothing should be an on going debate/discussion. How else do you learn anything new? I for one, never knew about the Admiralty Contracts till David R brought them up at the PirateBrethren site. GOF

There has been some discussion on the PirateBrethren site ( a Yahoo group dedicated to authentically portraying GAOP) about some weapons that were used. Here is some cut and paste Q> Does anyone know the difference in the use of the French fusil Type C and the Tulle fusil de Chasse? The Type C was in use in the late 1600's into the 1700's. The Tulle was also in use in the early 1700's. Both were offered as trade guns in the Americas. D Rickman's reply A> I have a book called "The Fusil de Tulle in New France, 1691 - 1741" by Russel Bouchard (Alexandria Bay, NY and Bloomfield, Ontario, Museum Restoration Service, Historical Rams Series, No. 36, 1998). It is just a small pamphlet, but goes into the question pretty thoroughly. The author states that "In general, the Tulle hunting musket [fusil de chasse] was different from the military musket because of its lighter and hence less robust construction, and it was 28 balls to the pound caliber. The brass or iron mountings were proportional to the length, and the style of the lock was hardly different from the infantry musket. As a general rule, it was carefully made." The lighter weight seems to have made them popular and by 1695 they were issued to the French marines (Compagnies Franche de la Marine). Unfortunately, the earliest model of a fusil de chasse this book shows is dated 1720, but it is not the marine model. The earliest complete fusil de chasse of this sort dates from 1729, and is illustrated. I couldn't find anything about the "Type C" fusil; was it manufactured by Tulle? If not, it wouldn't be in this book of mine. <<<HERE IS THE PART RELATING TO YOUR QUESTION>>> But there is an intersting section in this book on the "fusil de filibustier" or "boucanier." Yes, that is a Bucaneer Musket. It seems that these were pretty common in the French naval service and with civilians, especially in Louisiana and the Caribbean. It was based on the type of musket made popular by the Boucaniers, and appears in the famous print of one standing with his musket. By the last decades of the 17th century, the fusil de boucanier was becoming the most common weapon in the French colonies for both military and civilian use. Every male civilian in the colonies was obliged to own a musket from the Royal stores, and every merchant ship had to have a certain number of guns on board. The buccaneer musket was not specified, but the regulation stated that the guns had to have barrels 4 1/2 feet long, and that amounted to the same thing. In the French West Indies, they became the standard militia arm in 1695. In 1710, every fishing vessel in Newfoundland was issued two Buccaneer Muskets and every Basque ship that traded with Newfoundland received the same "because they are lacking adequate weapons, [and] could not resist pirate attacks." In 1710, Santo Domingo, (now Haiti) ordered that every head of household have one Buccaneer Musket, one "gargousier" (cartridge pouch), one "manchette" (machete), or sabre, and a bayonet for each ten Negroes they owned, all placed on a rack in their hall or room. Finally, in the second quarter of the 18th century, the Buccaneer Musket was the standard arm aboard each navy ship. So, what is a Buccaneer Musket? The characteristic features are that it was long - the barrel averaging 52 inches (with 60 inches the maximum and 48 inches the minimum). The butt end of the stock was shaped in reverse to most muskets. It was concave on the top and convex below. That is what is shown in the famous buccaneer print as well. Unfortunately, the earliest model the book shows is the 1729 Tulle Buccaneer Gun. Perhaps there are other examples out there. It seems likely that with so many of these once around, some must have survived. And equally, a good many must have fallen into the hands of pirates. I'll try and post a scan of the Buccaneer gun soon. Hope that this is a start? I think that Foxe posted a picture of some Buccaneers frim 1705. A little late but Buccaneers none the less. GoF

Challenge for Foxe or ? I am trying to make a pattern for the sailors short jacket. Which period picture do you think has the best detail of the short sailors jacket? The Reade and Bonny photo make it look very baggy. The Woodes group make it look more waistcoat-ish. Post em if you got em. Thanks GoF

I was just noticing how wide the trousers look on the Reade and Bonny pic that Foxe posted. They are huge! I am working on a trouser pattern now. Hmmmm... GoF

Even if Hogarth had a sailor with an earing, I am not sure how much credence I would lend it. As I have said on this forum before, a bulk of Hogarth's work was done post 1720 and a lot of the fashion styles he depicts are 1730-1740ish. He almost always shows stockings tucked under breeches etc.... I am a fan of his work though GoF

One of the Threads is here Well now either black dye is expensive or it isn't. What are the chances that the ship a mutinous crew takes over and becomes a pirate vessel just happens to have a keg of expensive black dye to make pirate flags out of. You have to take the flag's size into account as well. Here is a repost of mine on the topic.... The question of how pirate flags were made and what they were made of probably comes up on every discussion board/e-mail list. I think that the best answer for the question was that they were made out of any materials that they had available to them. If the pirates "took" over a 8 gun sloop, what kinds of things were available to them? Sail cloth, linen, other flags (probably wool), paint, needles, thread, tar. A good indication would be to try to find period examples of other naval flags. Here is one that was captured by the British(9 January 1806) Spanish Ensign "Even for an era of enormous flags (British ensigns of the period would be 20 feet wide) this one is huge being about 33 feet wide and 45 feet long (9.8 x 14.4 metres). "The Spanish ensign is made from a red and yellow wool fabric, often referred to as 'bunting’--- NOTE BUNTING IS WOOL---, narrow widths of the fabric are hand sewn together and a linen hoist strip is attached. The Spanish emblem is painted or stencilled onto both sides of the flag." To me, tarred sailcloth with a painted and sewn on skull and bones (like in Foxe's post) would possibly be the norm not the exception. Considering that most ships would have several different flags in their stores for signaling or identification, I would assume that the pirate would try to make a flag like the ones that he was already familiar with. Here is flag construction and a quick quote from the site "In the 18th and 19th century, flags were usually made of one of three fabrics, although a home-made flag could be made out of most anything at hand. These fabrics are: wool, linen and silk. Later, more or less during and after the Civil War, cotton became available in weights and finishes suitable for flags. Woolen bunting, usually imported from England in the early days, is a light-weight, thin fabric prized for nautical use because of its flyability and resistance to rot from exposure to seawater. Linen was often used for the header and stars on such flags. Linen was also used for some "service" flags because of its inexpensive (at the time due to being the most common home-spun) nature. Silk was expensive and used for military and ceremonial flags. Thsese often bore complicated, allegorical or heraldic images painted on by master artists, often with different designs on each side" I think that pirates probably started off with what ever was available and then worked their way up to a nicer flag. One of my books says that there was some lady that sewed pirate flags in exchange for rum, And I think UNDER THE BLACK FLAG book has an account of the pre trial procession of some pirtes that says they "had their black silk flag carried before them." This is a mish mash of other post I have made... GoF

Go here and type PIRATE into the internal search engine.... you should find something there... http://www.orientaltrading.com/ GoF

Hmmmm.... This is a very interesting picture... John, maybe you should break it off into a seperate thread Dissecting the Pirate: 3 Dutch Captain in Shop???? Good call on the bolt spool thing! GoF

Does that look like striped ticking shirts under the jacket? Also, all the cuffs seem to be the mariners style Does the Admiralty contract call for Dorset buttons at this point? GoF

Ok... this is like the earring thing... I knew there was evidence for stripey clothing prior and after the GAoP, I just wanted it FOR the GAop!

OK... stripes Apparently the 1706 Admiralty contract called for (among other things) Strip’d Ticken Wast Coats of proper lengthes, to be one Yard in length at least, with Eighteen Black Buttons, the Holes Stitched with Black Thread lined with White linen and two White Linnen Pockets, at the Rate of Seven Shillings each. Strip’d Ticken Breeches of proper lengthes, lined with white linen, and two linen Pockets, with Sixteen Black Buttons, the Button Holes stich’d with Black Thread, at the rate of five Shillings each Strip’d Shagg Breeches lin’d with Linnen, with three Leather Pockets, and fourteen white Tinn Buttons, the Button Holes stich’d with white Thread, at the Rate of Tenn Shillings and Sixpence each So it seems that striped trousers (if made from Linen ticking or duffel/shagg wool cloth) AND waistcoats are appropriate for our time frame... or at least post 1706. GoF

Cotton... Uhmmm... well most "re-enactors" like to use cotton because they can get it at their local fabric shop in all kinds of colors and prints for $2 a yard. The truth is that the kind of cotton we have today would have been very expensive in the late 17th early 18th. Cotton was being produced in the collonies, but the manufacturing of cotton did not get underway until the mid to late 18th century. So if you could find a nice homespun style of cotton, that would be great to make your slave clothes out of. Cotton was used in conjuction with other fibers though at this time in wool/cotton and other blends. I reccomend wool, linen (you can make the outter garmets from linen too), fustian, osnaberg.... Nicole Kipar's site is one of the best web refrences available... definately worth the time also, check out my site (link below) for sources of fabrics too! Good luck!

I was kind of hoping to find a picture/engraving/wood cut etc of a black pirate that was "painted" during the GAoP.... the search goes on....

uhhh... yeah Is the one with the umbrella a pirate? GoF

Well, I was really impressed by Foxe finding a period picture on such short notice. Very well done and it provided lots of other answers and new questions (the other things in the picture). SO here is the next challenge for anyone who can help "solve" it. There has been a lot of talk about equity among the races in the GAoP. Has anyone seen any pictorial reference of Black and White pirates together? post em if you got em! GoF

The cocked hats... What caught my interest was how low the crown is. Most repros available all seem to be from the same style hat blank with a high (5 1/2" crown). These seem to be more of a flatter, shorter crown 3"? The one with his hat off and puting something in in... doesn't seem to be a cocked hat. Maybe a Peter t Great knit??? . Or a battered round hat. Also, woods is the only one with trim on his hat (ooops just saw the one on ground) and his hair is pulled back and tied with a ribbon. Personally, I don't think that they got the best artist that they could of... but like Foxe has said all along, it could have been drawn by someone that was never near sailors/caribbean. All the trousers seem to be highwater, below calf and above ankle... not too good of a hem job either as they all appear kind of ragged edged Double buttons... I don't think so. If you look to the right, the guy pointing has a similar coat but what I think we are seeing is the artist inablility to show the button hole clearly, we are seeing the "shadow" of the ends showing... So I think it is a badly drawn row of button HOLES. To me it seems like they (the group of pirates) are wearing short jacket (no pockets?), and a waistcoat under that.... then shirt. Am I seeing this or just think I am seeing it? Also, the neckerchiefs on all of their necks are white/off white. I saw this discussion in another thread but when do black scarves come in to the timeline?

I Posted the Guayacil raid in a new thread... lets leave this one for Reade and Bonney comments and move the new disccusion to Dissecting the Pirate: 2 Guyacil Keep up the good work mates! GoF

This is a fovorite of mine (really Foxe) it Depicts the Raid on Guayacil. FROM FOXE Brief history: Woodes Rogers commanded a privateering voyage in 1709 or thereabout, raiding the West coast of South America. one of the successes of the voyage was a raid on the port of Guayacil which is depicted here in an engraving from Woodes Rogers' 1712 published account of that voyage. ok lets talk about what we see.

You did good Foxe! Interesting too as the ones being carried from the ship are open? Do the early or later ones have shleves or dividers for gear. The seem pretty big. Must have been really cramped quarters with all the men and gear. I think we will have to dissect that photo in the future. So if there are any more questions or comments about the Reade and Bonny photo, when can go to the next one. Foxe, if you have a good one of the whole firsking picture, go ahead and post it. GoF

RED MARIA That is soooo cool and alone worth this thread! Keep up the good work guys! FOXE What did the GAoP sailor put all that stuff in? A box, bag. Can you post an image (repro or otherwise?) GoF

OT ARGGHHHH! I am trying to post a picture but i keep getting Sorry, dynamic pages in the tags are not allowed What does this mean and what am i doing wrong???? G