gunner Gordon

You could put th belt on the box, but I tend to think that would cause the waist belt to move unnaturally, the box slightly below the belt, 2-3 inches say .It reallyt depends on your climbing and moving needs. Locks out, 1- comfort,2- sweat will rust your locks very quickly ,they sealed their frizzens by applying melted wax to the parting edges, no comment about the safe way to do that.tapered loops for the pistols with tie downs @ trigger guards? pics show buts in the center barrells out,but you would need left hand locks or box locks to achieve the look of contemporary drawings, remember, you most likely have a cutlass in yout right hand, and must draw and use your pistol with your left, at best, you are drawing and using right and left together. sound familiar ,marshall Dillon? PS pistol grip will tend to rotate down but not far due to shape of grip. hope this helps a bit, getting tired of rigs looking so western when our own were just if not more ingenius.

pistols, smaller, worn horizontaly, on a cartridge box sling worn around the neck only, box now sits middle of the waist, strap goes around neck so you have two straps coming down the front of you, pistols on both sides to balance weight waist belt goes over the two straps, just above ammo box to keep pistols and box from moving side to side. Hands and arms are free,this is the set up on the contemporary drawing of Blackbeard and others with the sea and/or a ship in the background. This is not a baldric, that many guns, or any guns on the front of a baldric will pull it out of place, this is a common musket type cartridge box and sling.

Easy enough. I just used one from gunner Gordon's kit. (Pirate) yeah, like I'll ever get that one back . Looks better on you anyway!

(M5 A1 ? want a ride ) Yank

to shining sea

I have bought my wool from 96 District Storehouse for well over a decade (back when it was part of 96 District Fabrics). They have a store in Abbeville, SC, 45 minutes from me, but Peggy and Dennis Earp travel to many reenactment events around the US, esp. Revolution and American Civil War. One reason: wool is VERY hard to find "off-the-rack" is South Carolina. Main reason: Their wools are high quality, thick, properly made, and relatively cheap for what you get. Most are $10-$15/yard, with some of the tartan/plaid ones a bit higher, but very rarely over $20/yard. I buy on-site, to feel the weave, hand, and thickness, as well as the colors and hues. That is where my wool-experience comes from. The wool that our kilts are made of is a looser weave and somewhat coarseer than the wool the jackets etc. are made of,and do not normally leand themselvs to the raw edge construction (military kilts) the wools I find that arec affordable are at yardage store sales in the springtime, these wools are normally in the 25 to 80 dollar a yard range and can be found in every thickness, but usually in a coat wieght. The best example of the difference in the quality of material I can think of is to go to a military surplus store and compare by sight and touch the difference between an older US Navy pea coat and a new one not made for a military contract ,you can tell which is which by the price, the used navy issue jackety is more expensive than the new non-issue jacket, you get what you pay for in fabric.

Milady, Beauty trumps authenticity everytime !

I was very fortunate a few years ago and was turned loose at the museums in Aberdeen , Scotland and at the Fort George museum in Inverness Scotland where I was allowed to hold and closly examine these garments, even better I was allowed the same with damaged garments that are used to observe the construction methods. There was obviously no radio or TV at that time or this stuff couldn't have been made, it must have taken so long.

I'm not the one to pose this question but I am also not the one to research it either ...have you doccumentation to support this statement? Would you kindly share it? I believe a lot of mass producers of clothing don't dwell on this point because it means using more authentic fabrics however the best way to understand it from the written sourcr is to look at pics from museum collections and note the edges, pocket flaps etc., especially military uniforms as they best represent the construction method of otherwise non existant clothing that no one bothered to preserve. I have a few yards of the red wool used to make the British guards tunics ,it is so tightly woven that you can't hemm or turn it under. take a look at a modern day pic at Buckingham Palace, the bottom edges of the tunics are still left unhemmed, also the long gray wool overcoats and their capes are unhemmed. Today we think of this type of wool as melton wool and very expensive, then it was the norm.

Teak

Where to start, hollywood has so screwed and skewed the practical knowledge of the day. There was a pattern or syrtagy to the taking of a sip, fort town what have you. it was guys with edged weapons that would be dealing with the initial obstacles and guys with guns ,grenados etc. that would be covering them to clear the way for the general assault.Hence pistols tied around your neck,ref. masrwe and commander. easily discarded when the edged assault came so you don't shoot your own people in the fray. Ribbon would have been quite strong and easier to deal with tan tarred or served rope.sailors and gun crews are not wearing weapons, you can't work and carry all that stuff. It's in barrels and buckets on the deck, along with the sand to throw on the bloods so you don't slip .If you look at contemporary drawings of multiple pistol carrying methods on leather you most often seem to see a standard type infantry sling and ammo pouch worn around the neck and held in place front ,center by the waist belt. you then see box lock screw barrelled rather small pistols in abundance, not large clumsy military pistols. tghese either have a belt hook slid into a small stitched piece of leatheron the back side of the strap and not visable when the gun is present. Since belthooks are very rare on these little pistols you can find a holster like sleeve and tiedown like the patch knife holder on hunting rigs. I hve used the strip of leather sewn to the backside of my waistbelt at an angle to keep as many of my pistols close together and not shifting or banging together. then the wieght becomes the issue. there's alot more on this topic, we can deduce alot from the artwork and common sense to come up with authentioc interpretations instead of trying to get everything you own on one outfit.

Brassy Lady

Tear

if it is a continuous taper like some of their other pistols, I cut off a 1/4 inch of the end of the rammer and push it in alittle further. when the brass endbutton pulls off, score the wood end, dip in water and reglue with gorilla glue.

Reap

remembering that most jackets etc. from this time period had all the edges left raw, I have altered a few coats by using overcoats or 3/4 lenght coats slightly too big. the extra material is used for the cuffs, pocket flaps ,what have you. use a good quality wool garment that willnot fray with raw edges exposed. simply put, put the jacket on and use a chalk pencil to "draw" the outer seems where they fit your body, top stitch then cut to the edge. Like I said ,this is very simply put and you need to have an understanding of your body type to do it. It is easier to do a waistcoat, we've all seen the possibilities in a suit jacket. use the sleeves for the pocket flaps and other details. I am doing a waistcoat and a jacket for Black Hearted Pearl now using this method, if I don't blow it she might allow pics of the finished product. remembering that most jackets etc. from this time period had all the edges left raw, I have altered a few coats by using overcoats or 3/4 lenght coats slightly too big. the extra material is used for the cuffs, pocket flaps ,what have you. use a good quality wool garment that willnot fray with raw edges exposed. simply put, put the jacket on and use a chalk pencil to "draw" the outer seems where they fit your body, top stitch then cut to the edge. Like I said ,this is very simply put and you need to have an understanding of your body type to do it. It is easier to do a waistcoat, we've all seen the possibilities in a suit jacket. use the sleeves for the pocket flaps and other details. I am doing a waistcoat and a jacket for Black Hearted Pearl now using this method, if I don't blow it she might allow pics of the finished product.

sorry, got confused with the "other" word game sooooo..... AHRR

shore liberty

tumble down

sailor's dream

Quite true !!! A lot of the "generally accepted wisdom" about black powder shooting is geared toward the firing of live loads with ball, and competition shooting, rather than firing blank loads. I use 3f in ALL calibers for blank loads, except for cannons. Works just fine, and is fairly clean burning. In the larger calibers, (above .50), tests have shown 3f generates higher pressures than coarser powders when using ball, but for our purposes with blank loads, it's not an issue. For priming, use of 4f is entirely unnecessary. 3f works just fine, so you only need to carry one grade of powder. For competition shooting, where milliseconds in ignition time count, 4f is a good idea. It has a marginally faster burn time than 3f, and ignites slightly easier. For shooting blanks, it won't hurt anything to use it, but it's really not needed. >>>> Cascabel plus, the larger grain powder is less likely to leak out of the pan with a less than perfect fittibg frizzen. On some of my larger calibre weapons I have enlargened the vent slightly so as to keep the vent from becoming fouled with powder residue from the firing of blanks that may not always burn as cleanly without the help of a ball to compress the load.

sail with sheets ,longarm with powder and shot ,cutlass with baldrick

DAME

Maid

spent all me tin