Jack Roberts Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 Well I've kept my new cutlass pretty well oiled and It has some rust spots on it. My questions is what should I do to get it off? Steel Wool, Sand paper? (ie 600 grit wet/dry) I havn't done anything to fix it yet. I'm going to wait for some adivce. I used Mineral Oil on it. I just got some petroleum jelly and smothered it with that. Here is a pic I just took. There is some on the tip also. It looks worse in the pic than it really is. I forgot to put a penny beside it. I feel really dumb right now, I thought I was doing what I could to keep it from rusting. It hasn't been in the scabbard at all. I keep it stored in the corner of the room. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monterey Jack Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 I use 600-800 grit emery cloth on my Darkwood cutlass and dirk, then oil it up with knife oil or even the old 3M stuff. It removed the rust, though sometimes you will still end up with a dark "map-like" patina where the rust was. I actually don't mind that, as it makes the thing look antique. My hilt is blued and I've found that allowing a powdery patina of rust (not corrosion!) to build and then oiling it, creates a deep orange-red "rainbow" in the bluing which also adds to the look without harmin th' weapon. Monterey Jack "yes I am a pirate 200 years too late, the cannons don't thunder, there's nothin to plunder, I'm an over-40 victim of fate, arrivin too late.........." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Dog Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 On light surface rust I've used car buffing compound with good results. Also after rust removal, clean the blade with laquer thinner, "make sure it's laquer thinner not paint thinner, paint thinner leaves a residue" then wax the blade with turtle wax to seal it. This has worked on my Colts and high carbon steel knives with wonderful results. Best 'o luck me mate. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jib Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 How does that turtle wax hold up being handled? Does the oil from your hands eat through it quickly and require frequent re-applications? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Dog Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 It lasts a good time but it will show finger prints immediatly when touched, but they wipe right off and I've actualy not cleaned my S/S pistols for a day or two with handprints on them and they wiped off leaving no trace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jessie k. Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 How long does turtle wax hold up with actual use, then--such as, on fencing rapiers? "When we remember we are all mad, the mysteries disappear, and life stands explained." --Mark Twain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Dog Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 That I really don't know. Probably not too long though, I keep a rag treated with wax in my cleaning kit and just wipe it down after use, sorta like a silicone cloth would be used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cap'n Pete Straw Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 I use a very fine steel wool with WD-40. Wipe it off very well, then apply a good gun oil (available at any hunting goods store -- a Must-Have). Easiest way to apply the oil: add a few drops to a piece of cotton cloth or paper towel, and rub your sword liberally (if you know what I mean). Periodically oiling your blades (and all your weaponry) is a vital maintenance task. The aforementioned silicone cloth also works well. Atmospheric moisture is more than enough to slowly rust your blades. "He's a Pirate dancer, He dances for money, Any old dollar will do... "He's a pirate dancer, His dances are funny... 'Cuz he's only got one shoe! Ahhrrr!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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