Keeping your blade in good shape

[Jib]

What do you use to keep your bade from rustlng or tranishing? I have tried Ren Wax but it seems rather 'heavy'.

[Coastie04]

I'd say it also depends a bit on what kind of steel it is. I've got a mild steel blade that I forged myself. For that, I just heat it up in the oven a bit (lowest temp) and either rub bees wax or oil from a rag over it. I heat it up because it helps open the grains of the metal up and make the oil less viscous so that it will run into all the 'pores' in the metal. Gun oil should work as well on most metals.

Coastie

[Deadeye]

On my High Carbon blades (i.e. 5160, or 1090) i used two different methods:

Display and normal usuage: i used either 3-n-1 oil that you can get at any walmart. it is cheap, and works well as long as you oil regularly.

For long storage i used Vaseline or Paste wax.

For blades and utensils i use for eating, like my Dirk, and forks, I use olive oil, cheap, non toxic, and ads a bit of flavor to your meals

[hitman]

Maybe not what you need but for my working knives I've always just used wd-40. It seems to always be handy and for a frequently used blade excellent protection on my hunting/camping blades I've always used either 3 and 1 oil or gun oil depending on witchever was closest to hand.

P.S. Gun oil tastes better :)

[Jib]

I noticed that where my wrist rests upon the pummel the sweat has tarnished the pummel. Ideas on how to bring back the luster or at least provide a little more protection?

[Deadeye]

I noticed that where my wrist rests upon the pummel the sweat has tarnished the pummel. Ideas on how to bring back the luster or at least provide a little more protection?

Jib- get yourself some White Jewler's Rouge from Home Depot -i think its around 2 dollars- and a buffing wheel you can put in your cordless drill.

Use a green scotchbrite pad to get any rough stuff off. then apply the rouge to the Buffers wheel while spinning and buff to a nice shine. This can be done on any metal peices of the blade. Apply oil immediatly.

[Hawkyns]

Interesting question. I don't use anything that I plan to leave on there for a while. I clean them regularly, with a oil soaked suede pad. If there's any rust built up I use green scotchbrite or 200 grit wet and dry sandpaper. I've also used one of those rust erasers to good effect. Obviously, constant care is a better plan than static maintainance. For Oil, it depends what I've got handy. If I'm in the shop, then I use Breakfree gun oil. In the field, i'll use what's handy, either the lemon oil beeswax mix that's in the toolbox or the neatsfoot oil I use on the leather. If I'm going full on period, I've got some synthetic whale oil that I got from Dixie.

Jib- why do you want to bring back the luster? If it's a legitimate stain, put there by practice and age, then it's the mark of a well used blade and a badge of honour. If there's no active rust, and it's just an age browning stain, I'd certainly leave it.

Hawkyns

[Francois]

One of my self taught trades is restoring antique and classic cars. I learned to restore the trim molding on the vehicles such as the stainless steel and aluminum. Since I had all the supplies equipment and 20 years of practice I decided to do swords and my flintlocks. the metal is all very workable. I can make a rust pitted blade look brand new. I can also make any brass parts look new. The way I do it is by first taking it all apart. I have high speed buffing machines and use bars of jewelers rouge. there are many different rouges for many different applications. This also goes for the buffing wheels. If the metal is pitted then sanding is involved. When finished I apply different products depending on what the blade is use for. If it is a wall hanger urethane clear coat goes on it. This protects the metals and wont change the bright work of the metal. If its just a side arm for show only I use collinite wax it is a pure wax used for cars. it goes on light is long lasting and brightens the metal. For fighting blades I use the same wax on the hilt and oil on the blade. The oil I use is the oil that's used for oiling pneumatic tools. Its heavier than wd-40 but lighter than 2 in one oils. on my guns I use that same oil.

Although I have to agree with Hawkyns if its showing natural wear let it go. He could testify that there are many seasons I tend to let my weapons go longer than I sometimes should.

Sorry for being so long winded.

Francois

[Deadeye]

Even Though i will admit to only a rudimentary knowlege of swordsmanship at this present time, I have to agree with Master Hawkyns. Age and wear on a seasoned blade is a badge of honor. It like scratches and fades in your favorite leather jacket, or even a scar that represents a signifigant moment in your life.

It's like my dad always says (and i think it holds true for blades too!):

Scars are like tattoos with better stories!

besides, only an officer and a Gentleman carry shiney, "pretty boy" swords!

[Jib]

I guess I was more worried about the look of the pummel. It has become a dull gray and I was worried that it would get worse with time. It seems at perfect level for me to rest my left wrist upon it and the sweat just seemed to be eatting it away. It also seems to bea handy location to grip the balde when moving quickly or through crowds. And I do apply a good amount of oil. I've used Hoppes Gun oil, Shang Wei oil, electrical motor oil, and now Ren Wax from Museum Replicas (which seems to be a good protector but has a dull cloudly look).

I do agree with both Hawkyns and Deadeye that the wear and tear does create a history and makes an item more personal. I just wondered if I should attempt to seal it to prevent more damage. My cutlass cost me a good amount of treasure and I hope to have it for a long time. It's also a "Jib" trait at MRF that I carry this heavy bone breaking cutlass with a huge pummel.

[Deadeye]

I would recoomend just shining it up every so often. Any of the ways described above will work great.

for permanent seal, You might try an automotive clearcoat. I have never tried it, but it could work... But i claim no responsibility for any mishaps or bad-ideas-that-seem-good-at-the-time that come as a result of exposure to hazmat fumes ( i know, i work around this stuff all day)

[Bonnie Red Weasel]

P.S. Gun oil tastes better :)

Hitman, it frightens me that you know this.

I honestly have no idea if it's bad for the metal or not, but I've used a very light spray of WD-40 on both steel weapons and metal armor for more years than I care to admit to, both to remove the slightest powdering of oxidation, and to keep it from further damage. With nothing but light cleaning with water if necessary, hand sharpening and buffing, and a tiny bit of WD-40 (wiped off, of course, after spraying), my blades have all stayed looking lovely. My old Buck "camping" knife, after an amazing amount of use and abuse, and long wet hiking trips, and occaisional storage in a wet sheath (get your mind out of the gutter), still looks absolutely new.

[Jib]

Bonnie made me think of a related topic. Do you oil your scabbard? I keep a light coat of oil on mine. I have had bad reactions on certain cheap scabbards and sheaths. THe glue tended to pull apart.

[Deadeye]

I honestly have no idea if it's bad for the metal or not, but I've used a very light spray of WD-40 on both steel weapons and metal armor for more years than I care to admit to

If it works for you, thats great, but i have seen some bad stuff come as a result of WD-40. One of the problems with it is that it is water-soluble, so it comes off with water, and can also hold moisture. But on the other hand, i know some people who i really respect swear by it, and their things look great after decades, so what the hell do i know?

Do you oil your scabbard?

I dont use oil, unless it has metal peices, but on a standard Leather scabbard, i will use a bit of Dr. Martens greasy shoe wax. Provides great weather protection and is nourishing to the leather, without shining it up too much.

[The Doctor]

Bonnie made me think of a related topic.  Do you oil your scabbard?  I keep a light coat of oil on mine.  I have had bad reactions on certain cheap scabbards and sheaths.  THe glue tended to pull apart.

I use Skidmore's Leather Cleaner on all my leather products, from expensive show saddles to scabbards, or even cheap work gloves. It's the best stuff I've ever used, and I highly recommend it. One thing that I particularly like is that it doesn't drastically darken the leather like oils tend to.

I don't know if they have a web site, but their number is (307) 742-0770 or (800) 785-2466. It's a family business based in Laramie, WY. Nice people, and their product is a real bagain when you consider I've kept over $15,000 of leather pristine for almost 5 years with about $35 worth of leather cream. :)