Cannons and Naval Carriages YOU can afford.

[HarborMaster]

As some of you know we are working on a small pirate themed beach resort in the philippines (my retirement home). What would that be without Cannons! We did get some rather large cannons for this after some good guidance from "The Royaliste". These guns however are large and will be for our sea-walls and marina.

We do feel the need however to also add cannons to our SCUBA vessel however to comply with Philippine law., we cannont have Carronades and large bores on our vessel with out problems with the Philippine coast guard therefore we must stick to 1' bore signal guns or smaller.

After all we are NOT a tall ship we will be a small resort . It is better to stick to a 1' bore signal gun (We will just have 4 signal guns on our ship*evilGrin*).

This thread is more of a how to .,on how to build your own affordable Loud accurate authentic cannon at 1/4 scale out of good ol U.S. made Oak and Iron.

For starters I contacted Tim over at Grey Star Technologies he is building me the 6-pak I need. And Matt at Kansas Cannon Works

Tims 35lb 1/4 scale 6pounder with 1' bore at 23" for 185.00 was a great start. These are cast iron cannons poured around a steel tube (the bore) when we got them we check for a straight bore. Very nice indeed.

Matts Cannon however is a Napoloen at 20" and a 1' bore at 180.00 piasters. Allthough these are lathe turned ., then blued ., They are a magnificent little gun barrel., also of course STRAIGHT and heavy duty.

Both of these people are very nice to deal with and their work is far better than the money they charge., peanuts really for a hand me down your heirs will all fight over.

The main purpose for these smaller guns for me is they are LOUD., easy to ship overseas., will go great on our little ship., cheap and cheap to load., very little Black Powder is required for a 1" bore. Here we go.

Matts 20" Machined Napoleon

Tims 23" 6 Pounder

After recieveing the 6 Pounders we went to work right away., there is a casting seam youll need to remove., it goes away fast with a 5" rubber disk sander .,a drill and 50 grit sand paper.

The un-sanded muzzle.

This build follows no particular pattern of a historical vessel., The carriage in fact is of my own creation. I have looked at many and pirated ideas I liked and discarded what I did not like.

I used photo shop to lay-out the trundle. This allowed me to make alot of changes., bare in mind its little., so if its too tall., itll look funny?., if its too low., the Quinn (elevator) will not be functional., we didnt want to use a 3/4 1X type board., we want a heavy look., on a real firing toy.

First thing I discarded was standard wheels., :)

I wanted oak Trucks. To accomplish this I used an 8ft Red Oak 1 X 4 measuring 3/4 inch thickness and purchased a 3 1/2 " Hole saw., A 1 X 4 being 3 1/2 inches wide left no room for error., I built a fence for the Drill press from a 2x6 scrap and a 1x2.

After cutting 16 rounds per cannon (4 per wheel) and 12 rounds (3 per wheel for Matts 20" gun) I then used a bolt the same size as the hole saws guide bit as a clamp and began gluing!!!

This photos are for the 20" Cannon

Snuggen'em down

48 hours dry time should be sufficient.

If this is not a topic anyone is interested in I will stop the thread.

My Intention is too show how to build a nice looking cannon on a budjet., and have it firing in fairly fast time., as help or an aid to anyone interested in building one to add to their pirating fun.

[Captain_MacNamara]

Keep me posted mate... I plan on doing the same thing come February...

[Coastie04]

Definitely keep going with this. It looks interesting, the pictures are great, and there are definitely people that have showed interest in the past for just this type of project. If they're not interested, they just won't read it.

Coastie

[HarborMaster]

O.K. Men will do.

Well this is supposed to be a budjet cannon project., so we instead of some great looking Bronze trunnion caps from cannon-mania we opted for some homemade steel unit which we will paint black. I will show a few photos of those tomorrow if time permits.

In the meantime some measurements. Keeping in line with "Budjet" we wanted to get and use readily available woods already cut to the proper size as much as possible. We found at Home Depot they had 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 Red Oak that we could use for the carriage cheeks. All we have to do is cut the lengths as we stack the cheeks.

And 3/4" 1 X 6 board for the carriage deck !

I decided a 3 1/4 " diameter wheel would be about right for a 1/4 scale gun with a 16" trundle 3 1/4 X 2 wheels covers 6 1/2" of the trundle from the side. Should look a little buffed up. Also I opted for 1 version of this gun with a 3" wide wheel. And 1 version with a 2 3/4" wide wheel.

After the glue has dried I tighten the chuck of the drill press onto the bolt clamping the wheels together so we could then sand them down lightly with 220 grit. A little by hand at first on the glue lines then I used a block to be sure they roll flat.

I know its a small cannon and a small wheel however I chose a 1" oak dowel for an axel. After drilling a 1" hole in this wheel for the axel we are only going to have 1 1/8 wheel from axel to earth. However the cannon should be about 50lb's finished and if its bounced around we wouldnt want to break off an axel

More tommorow.

[Captain Midnight]

Man! This is an awesome thread! Thanks for starting it, Harbor Master. I have been reading it with intense interest sice you started, and am very fascinated with this project. I too, have been pondering a project like this for quite a while. It is nice to be able to compare ideas and experience with folks who have the same thoughts and interests! My hat's off to ye, mate!

[Rummy3]

Wow! I am impressed! In fact - you're giving me Cannon Envy!

[HarborMaster]

Thanks Rummy3 and Captain Midnight !

I think to post a pic of the plan and explain it may be in order.

The top board will be 7"

the second board at 10"

the 3rd at 13"

and the two lower boards which will hold the floor will be at 16"

The lower boards are the whole trick., after gluing the 2 lower boards together ., we will want to layout the measurements for bolts ., holes and nails before doing anything else., as well as dado-ing in the cut that sinks into these board ., "the floor" Also by pinning the floor to these boards., when we stack the upper cheeks., those nails will have been covered for a cleaner looking carriage.

Additionally.,The trunnion mounts came in., I say mounts as opposed to caps due to their design. The particular cannons have a short trunnion 1" . We are mounting the cannon to a 1 1/2 " wide block ., therefore the trunnion comes up short. To correct this you must use a 1" board to match the trunnion or ? customize a wider cap., my caps are 1 1/2 and a welded end cap to hide the 1/2" differance., (Packem with grease if you like - I am )

Now for a 7" top board we felt 1/2" of oak in front of the cap would be good., and 1 1/2" behind the cap. There for these are welded at 1 1/2 outside diameter pipe., and 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 steel on each side. This gives us the 4 1/2" length we need for a trunnion "Mount"

Tomorrow We will try to cut the lower arch from the lower blocks. ?

[Captain_MacNamara]

One thing I am going to do for mine is take a 2x2 or 2x4 and cut to 2 inches longer than the length I actually need, and turn the actual axels on the ends of the boards, then cut off the excess where it was chucked into the lathe... leaving the part of the axle actually under the truck square. Makes it a bit more structurally stable, IMO. If you have access to a lathe, you might try that method... Otherwise, if you'd like to try that method but don't have access to a lather, send me measurements, and I might be able to turn you some axles cheap. These axles would bolt (or nail, or screw) to the bottom of the truck rather than punching holes in your truck frame. (Similar to the Wild Imports setup, which is mostly correct)

[HarborMaster]

You are exactly correct Capn Mac., however I have no lathe? Thats why I been using a drill press to make wheels LOL. Definitely more stable and correct out of square stock tho.

For a 35lb gun however I think itll be ok. This oak is tough stuff.

I figured to Pin the axel with one bolt thru the bottom and axel with a 1/4 lag bolt.,same method of adhesion

I wonder if a should try to work a 2 x 2 out.,by hand?

My HMS victory from wild imports really doesnt look lathed as much as almost hand carved?

[PYRATE]

Hmm, Perhaps a definitive explanation of the larger bore problem is in order, as we had Cebu on the 'Long Way Around' plan, but Tallship Royaliste might just have to steer a different heading........

ROYALISTE Scourge of the Western Pacific.........

[Captain of the 'REVENGE']

Aye, Might be time ta take the 'Republic' off the chart!..Hard to disguise a deckful 'o heavy iron as anything else but...heavy iron! :)

[Captain_MacNamara]

Given measurements, I'd be more than happy to make a trade... a set of axles for a set of truinnion mounts? I'll be making the same setup come february, and have no access to a welder...

[HarborMaster]

Hmm, Perhaps a definitive explanation of the larger bore problem is in order, as we had Cebu on the 'Long Way Around' plan, but Tallship Royaliste might just have to steer a different heading........

ROYALISTE Scourge of the Western Pacific.........

LOL your welcome in Cebu.,As a Tall Ship I am sure there would be no large bore problem here.,for you. For ourselves however we dont have a tall ship. Therefore they wont want us floatin around the local Islands with much more than some light poppers. At the fort We got 2 Hern 55" - 3" ordinance rifles for the Marina's Sea-Walls ., and Yes shipping was HUGE ( more than the guns themselves) but they ARRR there 11 months later. Besides., days on the beach and Tanduhay for all of your crewe while the ship Royaliste is in safe harbor. I believe Captain Gary knows he could Moor in Tropico's Marina as long as he wanted.

Aye, Might be time ta take the 'Republic' off the chart!..Hard to disguise a deckful 'o heavy iron as anything else but...heavy iron! 

TAKE OUT THE REPUBLIC !!! Lest we not be fergetting Captain of the 'REVENGE' .,Those Sea Wall mounted Hern Ordinance Rifles have a 2 1/4 " bore and will toss a mango juice can full of concrete at 800ft per second for a 1700 yard range accurate. I can have you well before you got into firing range.

Not too mention our 30" Old English Swivel and our HMS Victory both at 1.75" bores in our bar., to add some thunder if you get closer.

Let us ponder for a moment if you will? Short Smoothbore.,Steady Long Rifle..., Short smoothbore.,Steady Long Rifle.

Perhaps moor in our harbor and lets us tell tall tales of a Scuba Diving Safari Lookin fer sunkin treasure over a San Miguel Beer.

Additionally.,The trunnion mounts came in.,

I surely would Captain_MacNamara., I havent got a welder either tho., I had to go to the local welding shop however.,they were only 25.00 bones for 4 (two- cannons)

Just to give some idea for refrence., we are buiding a one of signal toy not a scale accurate to any one particular ships gun. I have quite an extensive photo album of various cannon carriages., no 2 are alike., which is the beauty of this project., anyone can do anything and end up with a nice peice so long as you know the powder requirement for your barrel and do not exceed it.,then everything else is just a matter of preference. Woods.,trunnion caps dimensions.,ect.,ect.

for example this one has the floor on the bottom.,along with a smaller diameter steel axel.,for that "Lowrider" look.

and this one has everything buffed up Wheels Wood and Barrel.

[Captain_MacNamara]

Ahh... I'll make you two sets of axels for 2 sets of caps

I just need to know the width of the truck base, and the width of the wheel so I can get the axel spindles the right length. I'll make the axel spindles 1" in diameter so they'll fit. I'll leave them un-drilled so you can finish them to taste...

Edit:

The Wild imports ones are turned, just not completely rounded out on the spindles. Then they're hand finished... gives the illusion of being hand carved.

[HarborMaster]

well I cant do that., I already am in too deep to change my now glued lower blocks and math -plan (wheels ect.,)

However., the build in these photos is for the 23" 6 lb'ers .

Matts good looking 20" Napoleon is next tho.,

I will trade you 2 caps for one set of axels for that cannon. If you need more any welder can copy the design. I'll even thro in the extra trunnion pipe as its a hard oddball to find. The inside is 1 1/4 to fit the trunnion with some degree of precision and the outer OD is under 1 1/2 to be as small as possible.

[HarborMaster]

With a limited amount of tools for this budjet.

Cutting the lower cheeks has to be done with a JigSaw (so a yard arm in any good port can rope swing these on board).

We are back using the drill press again. This time we chose an $8.00 sanding drum for smoothin the lower carriage cheeks.

(Note the Non-Use of a long Red Bandana and the oversized cuffs.,These items will infact *rAcK* a pirate while using power tools.)

With the aid of a sanding drum I am finding the borrowed drill press to be a very helpful tool. The only big piiece I have is the table saw and we havent even used it yet for anything other than a table.

This is what a sanding drum will do for you in about 3 minutes.

[HarborMaster]

]

[HarborMaster]

Tonight we didnt have much time.

Basically we made our 3 layers of cheek blocks. 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 (2x2's)

un-cut. We left the 16" carraige bottom still running wild at 18" until we get further along.

Layer 1 at 13"

Layer 2 at 10"

and Layer 3 at 7" we have left at 8" until we could finish shaping it. If there is a problem here you could cut it off at the 7" and try again. Chances are you wouldnt ruin all 4 anyway., only a piece or two...., More Rhum Ray ! .

In this next photo ., this is a good time to see where wheels trunnion caps.,the barrel all will line up., which we did. From here we marked tomorrows cuts...., however tomorrow we'll check once more before the cuts. We are on a budjet., and wouldnt want to buy more oak out of our Rhum Money.

This next photo was the part where we left the 7's at 8.., and no miffed parts. So a once over was nice .,after marking the cut with a 2 1/2" circle. We sliced a 3/16 deep line into all 4 tops with the table saw. Then lopped off the corners and proceeded to sand on the drill press., but with a sanding drum you cant finish. We clamped "the four tops" together and used a file and Sand paper to get the 1/2 arched tops finished. It goes pretty quik.

[Gentleman of Fortune]

Ok this is way off topic...

but Harbor Master, from the few pictures of yourself posted above.... You look like/remind me of Tom Berringer circa Platoon. Of course, you need some scarring but now every time I see a post from you that is what pops into my head.

GOF

[lorien_stormfeather]

Aye, Harbor Master be a peach of a man, and oohh those artful hands!

BTW - love this project shared it with the crew. (We now have a name... Pirates of Portlandia).

Look forward to the updates.

Only 6 more months 'till the Lady W. is back in Orygun!

[HarborMaster]

Why thank you Lorien !!!

So you know GoF ., I do try

Hopefully today., Sunday., we will get some more cuts to the floor done and some of the holes laid out for the drilling. The holes are kinda critical for the carriage to come out right.

[Patrick Hand]

Harbor Master, cool project..... it's fun to watch it all come together..........

[HarborMaster]

Thank you Patrick., just a humble pirate trying ta get me artillery in workin' order.

Once back out in the shop we decided to first cut the lower blocks front sections to length., we clamped them with the arches face to face then cut them at once for an exact doop left an right., then we clamped them again to drill our first hole for the axel. Then we used a snug fitting oak dowel to hold the two together as a clamp to get the front holes drilled correct..., kinda nice to roll a cannon with all 4 wheels touching the deck at the same time!

Next we decided to Dado a channel thru the lower cheeks to support our floor and rest on the axels., We dropped the floor 3/4 of an inch.(Later we will fill this 3/4" with guides for the quinn.

Lowering the floor left the cheeks too tall for a cannon., and gave a much steeper angle., like for a mortar? Therefore we thought we should drop each 1 1/2 cheek board 1/4" to now be 1 1/4" tall on the upper 3 cheek blocks.

Here on the next photo we grabbed our home made drill press fence and faced the 2 top cheek blocks Top-to-Top and centered them for a single drilling ., with the boards lined-up youll get identical cuts., so your cannon doesnt shoot a few degrees left or right

Now we need to grind on the trunnion caps welds and work them into a tight fit into the top blocks. After this is done we can then drill them for bolts while there in place.

My self ., I personally like to fit things as I go before drilling and doing any assembly at all., this way even bolt placement can be duplicated exact for what I think would be a more symetrical cannon. Probably wont be too much more activity till the end of this upcoming week.

[Longarm]

Man I hate waiting!

[Coastie04]

Looks great so far...keep 'em coming!

Coastie